Ive got my car to this point. Now to get it to this point it wasn't cheap. Things add up quick. Im going on 4 years and i still have work to do. Honestly as is without engine and trans i wouldn't let this car go for under 50k and i have more than that in it. Now If i lost my job, my wife lost her job, kid was sick, and I'm about to lose my house that would be a different story. Now something like this is i have a lot of documentation.

Things usually go like this. " well while you are in there replacing the tubs we might as well mini tub it and since we are doing that it would be a perfect time to upgrade to the dse rear quadralink." While he's right cost starts to add up really fast. You go from a few grand to 10k quick.
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IF you can do your own work you can get a lot for your money. I am very close to $70,000 in my project but I have owned the car for 40+ years and that cost is just the updates. I have no interior and have not even started on paint yet. But I can drive and enjoy to the car for now. If I did not have a car to start with and was not going to do the work myself I would be attending some auctions like Barrett-Jackson or Mechum to pick up a finished car.


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Okay... I generally prefer not to talk about $ but in this case I just wanna say I am WELL UNDER $100k in parts and well under $150k in total. Why? Because I bought a running car 5 years ago for a good deal ($29k) with a lot of nice upgraded parts -- fully upgraded stock sub, DSE leafs, mini tubbed, roll cage, pretty nice 10 year old paint job, and 550 hp SBC with a Muncie. It competed well with the $100k+ Pro Touring cars at events (why didn't I leave it alone again? :twak:) but one thing leads to another and you get bored and want more. BUT I sold a lot of those parts to the tune of 5 figures to help fund bigger and better parts... and that is why I am not at $150k to 300k like other guys. But then I don't have a $25k paint job (Honestly don't want one) and a $10k+ interior (don't want that either). My money has gone to drivetrain and suspension mainly.

Bottom line -- I knew I would change and upgrade things over time (didn't know how much or how fast) but you're way ahead if you have something decent and/or complete to start with. AND find a good builder/shop who will be HONEST with the numbers with you and not suck you in with a "good deal"... and just make sure they have actually put out some running cars that last if you go that route. Luckily my delays have been due to people not willing to work not having the time to work.

Good luck. And watch that sphincter. :lol:

Don't be Skinny Arms Rob Lowe.

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Steve what suspension do you have in the rear of this car?

$250k to $350k for a decent reliable car... I am glad I did not read this before I got interested in these cars. The number boggles my mind. Surely a regular guy can enjoy these cars too. Especially if they want to tour and not race or have a 900 hp king of the hill engine etc.

I got the sense the OP is a regular guy and I think tossing out numbers like that will discourage him from owning, driving and enjoying one of these cars.

Don

I agree Don. Not everyone needs or WANTS a $150k to 200k to 300k car. Many days I miss my $30k car and how much fun I had in it.

Right on Trey.

This is why my car has been scaled waaaaaaaay back. I just want to enjoy the car and learn some tricks along the way. I'd never get there if I stayed with my original plan.

Steve, you don't need paint so save the money or donate it to me :D

pimlico, don't be discouraged. That was not the intent of my post. Just be sure to have your eyes wide open before starting this process.

Owned for 25 years and under $30K including insurance payments. All is not lost. :D

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What it doesn't have is coilovers, trick suspension links, fancy sway bars, expensive wheels, fuel injection or LS conversion, AC, rack and pinion, tilt wheel, stereo, power windows, fancy paint (27 year old), pure sheet metal, carbon, billet, stainless, tinted glass, and cup holders.

What it does have that make the car enjoyable to drive is Momo steering wheel, Recaro seats, AFR heads, T56 Mag, 3:73 posi, firm springs, low CG, 200TW tires, C5 manual front brakes, a decent sounding exhaust, eye appeal based on general public opinion, and sentimental value.

........and it will easily go fast enough to get me thrown in jail and lose my license for a year. :D

To me the expenses really come down to your time frame, abilities, and desires. If I was going to buy a car it would probably be here or PT.com but it would have to be from a member who had good history and the car's build was documented in a thread. I think we've all seen some unbelievable deals over the years. :thumbsup:

Here's my 69 Firebird that I had roughly $30k into. Art Morrison front sub, G-Bar rear, C5/LS1 brakes, stock LS1, 8.5" 10 bolt rear, used HRE wheels, procar seats, and otherwise stock interior. My wife and I had a lot of fun cruising around in this car and the ride was far superior to a stock first gen. I sold it for what I had into it and the buyer hopped in and drove it back to St. Louis where he has been driving the wheels off it for 5 years. My wife still gives me a hard time about selling that car.

Don

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