One thing I forgot to mention in the original post...

Canton strongly suggested that I NOT have the Accusump hooked up during the initial startup nor until I changed the oil the first time. Apparently it's not good for the piston in the Accusump to get the assembly and break-in oil in the cylinder. May or may not matter if the Accusump is after the filter, but it's easy enough to leave it disconnected during that time.

Eric needs that start up oiling tank!!


Or you can buy it and then rent it out on here to all the guys that just start their motors up after sitting for 10 years.... LOL

I just ordered parts to get my 3qt Accusump plumbed into my 69 Firebird track/street car with an LS3 as well. I decided to mount the sump under the passenger side dash. I will be running the sump line into a Canton spin-on adapter at the oil filter (sandwiched between the filter and pan). I will be using an Improved Racing Thermostat (180?) that bolts to the pan above the filter. Lines will run from it to the cooler in my C&R rad. I've done a lot of research, but it looks like you may have done more...does this sound like it will do the job?

That was a great suggestion! I have a Harbor Freight about 2 miles from my house, so I ran by there at lunch. I got this:

Drill Powered Pump

Then I ran over to Lowes and picked up some of this:

Clear Vinyl Tube 1" OD 3/4" ID

And with some stainless clamps I have lying around, I now have this to use when I am ready to prime:

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...pskve8ltny.jpg

In thinking about this, I will just pull the input -10AN line to the external filter mount and attach this clear hose to it. I'll pump through that filter, which will fill the cooler, other filter, and block after. Seems like that should work well, and the oil pump will then only have to prime the internal galley to the thermostat and line that goes to the external filter. Should do that quite quickly...

$35 or so in parts, and I'll probably re-use this when I do an oil change to flush the cooler and re-prime the system.

You have that much space under the dash? Will it be behind the dashpad (ie: hidden) or on the floor? If it charges/discharges very often, you will get some heat in there. I'm pretty mixed on the idea of having 3 quarts of hot oil in the passenger compartment myself.

Are you using a valve to shut off the tank flow? Manual? Electric? EPC?

How are you going to route the line through the firewall?

Since it's in the passenger compartment, one thing you might consider that would at least make me feel better would be to make a hardline from the Accusump to the firewall. You can have a bulkhead fitting there and use flexible line on the engine compartment side. It would just make installing the accusump a bit tougher.

Oh, and full of oil, it will have some weight to it. What are you mounting it to?


I like that IR thermostat also, but already had the Mocal. I'm not sure exactly what your flow path will be on the filter adapter though. Does that adapter have fittings on it? If so, what size?

I am running the same valve that you are. There will be a short length of 10AN hose connecting the Accusump with the motor. The oil filter adapter has one input for the sump line. The sump is mounted to the underside of a shelf that I made of 16g steel that goes from the firewall to the glove box door (takes the place of the glove box). All of my electronics for the motor, fans, fuel pump, ect are mounted to it with access through the glove box door. I'm not worried about a little heat from the sump...my car has no heat/ac.
http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/1...ar-build/page7
See post #139 of my build thread

We use the front port and Iirc we use a -10 line but had to turn down the points of the wrench flats on the fitting as it can interfere with some accessory drives. I reinstall the factory plug when finished.

I don't like having a hot pressurized oil source in the passenger compartment but that's up to you. Mounting a heat source that will be 250F+ right below your electronics doesn't seem wise to me.

Yes, I took all of that into consideration. Even if the sump blew a leak, the electronics are completely sealed off in their compartment and the ECU and relays are mounted towards the middle-front of the compartment. The sump is located as far forward (to the back of the compartment) as possible. I can put Dynamat on the bottom of the shelf to further insulate my electronics.
You mentioned concern about the sump leaking/exploding in the passenger compartment and I thought of that too. I will be making a couple of shields out of 20g steel to isolate the sump. I also thought about mounting mine where yours is. If yours leaks/blows, you will have oil on the track, on headers, tires, etc. There is always a trade off. If I would have had the sump idea earlier in my build I would have mounted it in the dog house area.

Tim,

Do you have any problem using this port with the oil going into pan instead of pressurizing the rest of the system? Or I wonder if your dry sump would act differently in this sense vs. my wet sump pump?