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-   -   OK time for a new rear end suggestions (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49511)

Nativefx 03-10-2015 10:16 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSM (Post 597909)
Click here and is about the fourth post down #694 https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...=39584&page=70



That spot caliper is the one that I mentioned in my earlier post and "Ipsco" makes them. Just FYI. That was a solution that I discovered for GMR customers when I was involved with The GMR. Customers loved the full floater "movement" when GMR/I introduced it years ago, BUT like you, they all wanted a parking brake since they were also running on the street and this would be needed and was one of the solutions I came up with. Will it hold a parked car? Sure will,,, on a steep incline/decline,,,, nope. Will it work in an emergency type situation? Nope, it will not. This is however a great solution for a traditional full floater that will spend most its life at the track and needs something to hold it in place while it warms up.... PLUS you will need a weld-on bracket to locate it onto your axle tube which again makes this a fabricator type item/install of which I actually do have the brackets for.... as you will see by the time you purchase these spot calipers, brackets to weld to the axle tube to hold them, pay a fabricator to install,,,,, you will have spent more than the actual entire C6 Corvette E-brake set-up that works flawlessly, and is proven, and is available at your local GM dealer or online parts stores....

Not just cuz its mine, but if a guy told you he had a set-up that reaped the benefits of a traditional full floater, required basically zero maintenance, and incorporated an actual Emergency Brake (not park brake), and you could run the brake manufacture of your choice,,,, wouldn't this pretty much fit the bill? What more could you want? Just ask, maybe it does it too :)


Jay
Just wondering if you have any ideas on how i could get rid of my stock parking brake pedal and relocate somewhere else? Not sure where, or how else to do this, but I've been looking for idea.

In your previous link you shared, it mentions that your kit requires 33 spline axles from Strange Engineering. I tried going to their website but for whatever reason it's down. Since I need a new complete shortened rear end w/posi, I was wondering if you had any recommendations who I might order the entire rear end from? You had mentioned in your post below that Strange was on board, so I was hoping I could look at their options online. Anyone in particular I should talk too? Other options to look at?

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=48782

Also, as I have already recieved my Forgeline wheels will they fit onto the hub you are offering and will the studs be the same size as those on my Baer Pro+ front hubs?

Ron Sutton 03-11-2015 11:52 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSM (Post 598122)
Ron, just outa curiosity. I was wondering what one of the Speedway Floater Hub set-ups weighs that you run on your track cars? I am curious as to what the actual weight savings is. :thankyou:

Snout -
Hub (steel or aluminum? -
Bearings/Races -
Drive Plate (I assume you run steel) -
Studs -
Caliper Brackets/gussets) -

Also if you wouldn't mind?

Rotor Adaptor (steel or Aluminum?) -
Rotor 13"x1.25" -

Jay

Hey Jay,
The floater rear end is not lighter than a flange axle rear end ... all other things being equal. The reason to run a floater is safety, bearing longevity, elimination of hub flex & brake knock back. We do a lot to make them light, so they end up pretty close to the weight of a regular flange axle rear end. Sometime they're lighter, depending on what they're being compared to.

I'd have to go find my notes to know what a rear end weighs. The Mod-Lite floater uses a light 10 gauge housing. For the Grand National floaters, we use either a 10 gauge or heavier 7 gauge housing. We typically run the .188" DOM tubes & occasionally run the .125" 4130 tubes. For road course, autocross & street, I prefer the aluminum Mod-Lite hubs & the XHD steel GN drive plates. I dissuade people from running the aluminum drive plates except in high end racing where we can replace them often. The aluminum axle splines wear out too quickly.

For most kits I use Wilwood Spec-37 rotors. For my higher end stuff, we'll run AP rotors. If we're looking at short run cars, we'll go light with a 12.19" x .81" rotor. For long run cars where we need to deal with the heat, we run 1.25" wide rotors in whatever size we pick ... 12.19, 13.06" or 14.00". (FYI - rear brakes run cooler than fronts by about 1/3).

There were no brake kits for floaters that use 13.06" or 14" rotors, so I designed some & had them made. My rotor adapters for the large 13.06" & 14" rotors are made from 6061-T6 & black anodized. They are scalloped for both weight reduction and increased airflow into the rotor.

The caliper brackets welded to the housing are 3/8" thick 1026 steel & we double gusset them on the brakes packages with 13.06" or 14.00" rotors. Speedway Mod-Lite floaters use 18690 Timken bearings rated at 1800# thrust load each. Speedway Grand National floaters use L610549 Timken bearings rated at 2630# thrust load each.

We have some clients that occasionally run 1/2" studs. But ever since we found a good 5/8" fine thread lug nut from Moroso that has a smaller 7/8" hex & 60° conical seat that works with aluminum wheels ... most of my clients run 5/8" fine thread studs.

The Speedway Mod-Lite floaters are complete with hubs, bearings, studs, hardware & axles for $1299, so they're not much more than having a flange axle rear end built. It is safer & eliminates brake knock back.

:cheers:

Ron in SoCal 03-11-2015 12:30 PM
IIRC, my Speedway housing (different than Ron's mod lite above) with the DSE quadralink brackets weighed about 18 lbs lighter than my DSE/ Moser housing.

NASCAR parts FTW :cheers:

MillerBuilt 03-11-2015 05:25 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nativefx (Post 598141)
Just wondering if you have any ideas on how i could get rid of my stock parking brake pedal and relocate somewhere else? Not sure where, or how else to do this, but I've been looking for idea.

In your previous link you shared, it mentions that your kit requires 33 spline axles from Strange Engineering. I tried going to their website but for whatever reason it's down. Since I need a new complete shortened rear end w/posi, I was wondering if you had any recommendations who I might order the entire rear end from? You had mentioned in your post below that Strange was on board, so I was hoping I could look at their options online. Anyone in particular I should talk too? Other options to look at?

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=48782

Also, as I have already recieved my Forgeline wheels will they fit onto the hub you are offering and will the studs be the same size as those on my Baer Pro+ front hubs?

Have you looked at Lokar's site yet? http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/eme...akes-main.html

Yes my "kit" requires that the hub side of the axle have 33 splines to match the C7 Hub. The carrier side will be determined by what carrier/spline you choose.

Have you considered purchasing your rear-end set-up from one of our site sponsors? I know both Vince & Donny over on my thread offered their services, and I know Ron would help out, and believe all have access to Strange products and will be able to guide you into a set-up that works best for you based on your car and your expectations.... of course I can help out with the my kit!

Yes, these hubs have 2.756" wheel pilot and should fit your Forgelines perfectly. The C7 Hubs come with metric studs and I will assume your Baer hubs have a 1/2-20 ?? Either way either you or I can outfit the C7 hubs with ARP studs to match what you have. Let me know.

MillerBuilt 03-11-2015 06:20 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Sutton (Post 598195)

Hey Jay,
The floater rear end is not lighter than a flange axle rear end ... all other things being equal. The reason to run a floater is safety, bearing longevity, elimination of hub flex & brake knock back. We do a lot to make them light, so they end up pretty close to the weight of a regular flange axle rear end. Sometime they're lighter, depending on what they're being compared to.

I'd have to go find my notes to know what a rear end weighs. The Mod-Lite floater uses a light 10 gauge housing. For the Grand National floaters, we use either a 10 gauge or heavier 7 gauge housing. We typically run the .188" DOM tubes & occasionally run the .125" 4130 tubes. For road course, autocross & street, I prefer the aluminum Mod-Lite hubs & the XHD steel GN drive plates. I dissuade people from running the aluminum drive plates except in high end racing where we can replace them often. The aluminum axle splines wear out too quickly.

For most kits I use Wilwood Spec-37 rotors. For my higher end stuff, we'll run AP rotors. If we're looking at short run cars, we'll go light with a 12.19" x .81" rotor. For long run cars where we need to deal with the heat, we run 1.25" wide rotors in whatever size we pick ... 12.19, 13.06" or 14.00". (FYI - rear brakes run cooler than fronts by about 1/3).

There were no brake kits for floaters that use 13.06" or 14" rotors, so I designed some & had them made. My rotor adapters for the large 13.06" & 14" rotors are made from 6061-T6 & black anodized. They are scalloped for both weight reduction and increased airflow into the rotor.

The caliper brackets welded to the housing are 3/8" thick 1026 steel & we double gusset them on the brakes packages with 13.06" or 14.00" rotors. Speedway Mod-Lite floaters use 18690 Timken bearings rated at 1800# thrust load each. Speedway Grand National floaters use L610549 Timken bearings rated at 2630# thrust load each.

We have some clients that occasionally run 1/2" studs. But ever since we found a good 5/8" fine thread lug nut from Moroso that has a smaller 7/8" hex & 60° conical seat that works with aluminum wheels ... most of my clients run 5/8" fine thread studs.

The Speedway Mod-Lite floaters are complete with hubs, bearings, studs, hardware & axles for $1299, so they're not much more than having a flange axle rear end built. It is safer & eliminates brake knock back.

:cheers:
Ron,
As usual, thank you for taking time to answer, and in detail, but I think I did not ask my question clear enough. I was not needing the entire full floater rear-end set-up weight because I know there are many variables.

What I was trying to figure out is the weight ONLY for the items that I had listed. So basically if you took the components I have listed again, throw them on a scale,,,, what do they weigh?

(1) Snout -
(1) Hub (steel or aluminum? -
(2) Bearings/Races -
(1) Drive Plate & Cap (I assume you run steel) -
(5) Studs -
(1) Caliper Bracket/gussets) -





Thanks in advance, Jay

Nativefx 03-11-2015 08:29 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSM (Post 598227)
Have you looked at Lokar's site yet? http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/eme...akes-main.html

Yes my "kit" requires that the hub side of the axle have 33 splines to match the C7 Hub. The carrier side will be determined by what carrier/spline you choose.

Have you considered purchasing your rear-end set-up from one of our site sponsors? I know both Vince & Donny over on my thread offered their services, and I know Ron would help out, and believe all have access to Strange products and will be able to guide you into a set-up that works best for you based on your car and your expectations.... of course I can help out with the my kit!

Yes, these hubs have 2.756" wheel pilot and should fit your Forgelines perfectly. The C7 Hubs come with metric studs and I will assume your Baer hubs have a 1/2-20 ?? Either way either you or I can outfit the C7 hubs with ARP studs to match what you have. Let me know.
Thanks for the input on parking brake options. I'll have to look into some of those options.

As for the rear end purchase, or any parts for that matter, I try and utilize site sponsors from Lat-G and PT as most all of them have been more than helpful when my limited knowledge needed some guidance! Most all of my other purchases have been through MCB as they are great to work with, and also Swain from Budnik as he offered me a great deal on the front brakes. With the floater rear end options and some of the newer products on the market, such as yours, it's more difficult trying to figure out who might be able to help.

I think you are correct about the 1/2-20 studs on the Baer hubs, I'd have to verify. I definitely want to outfit the rears with the same. Got your PM so I'll be in touch to discuss more in detail about your option. I'm starting to get a clearer idea on what I need, but then again I may be completely wrong and not even know it!:EmoteClueless:

thanks, Jake

Nativefx 03-11-2015 08:36 PM
Anybody have any experience with the Moser offering they rolled out last year? Problem for me is the Wilwood brakes designed for this application rather than the option of the Baer.

Still might be interesting for others.

http://www.streetlegaltv.com/news/mo...ific-rearends/

Ron Sutton 03-11-2015 08:43 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSM (Post 598233)
Ron,
As usual, thank you for taking time to answer, and in detail, but I think I did not ask my question clear enough. I was not needing the entire full floater rear-end set-up weight because I know there are many variables.

What I was trying to figure out is the weight ONLY for the items that I had listed. So basically if you took the components I have listed again, throw them on a scale,,,, what do they weigh?

(1) Snout -
(1) Hub (steel or aluminum? -
(2) Bearings/Races -
(1) Drive Plate & Cap (I assume you run steel) -
(5) Studs -
(1) Caliper Bracket/gussets) -





Thanks in advance, Jay

Hey Jay,

Next time I'm at my shop ... which isn't often ... I'll grab those parts and weigh them. They are going to be heavier than the C6 ends and assembly. I'm just not sure how much heavier.

Sieg 03-11-2015 09:01 PM
I sincerely apologise in advance.......but the title of this thread has been egging me on for days and I could no longer resist.

OK time for a new rear end suggestions

This one from UCLA isn't bad IMHO............

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-D...DQnVVXX-XL.jpg

.......again my apologies but............:sieg:

Nativefx 03-11-2015 10:48 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sieg (Post 598257)
I sincerely apologise in advance.......but the title of this thread has been egging me on for days and I could no longer resist.

OK time for a new rear end suggestions

This one from UCLA isn't bad IMHO............

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-D...DQnVVXX-XL.jpg

.......again my apologies but............:sieg:
:drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:

Although in the end, that rear would probably end up costing me WAY MORE than I bargained for!!!!

Great view!


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