So I'm still at it. I've trimmed the drivers side axle down and all is good with that problem, together and torqued it spins freely. I'm still having an issue with the races, maybe it's no big deal but I'm thinking it is.
With the axles out I set the races in and give them a lil tap tap, and they'll still come out. I'm pretty certain the race isn't supposed to spin. Do I need to press them in or drive them in further with something?

Refresher, 9" axle with new Art Morrison ends and A20 tapered bearings.

Thanks

There's probably a "spec" for that.... and a call to Morrison would answer what you need for clearance. Just to make sure your bearing and race is the right size for the tube.

Mic the housing - and mic the race.... do a little math and find the difference. There will be a + or - number which your number needs to be "within". But they're not "press in".... it should just fit in snuggly.


I'm ASSuming you have TAPERED BEARINGS.... not the sealed BALL bearings.... Ball bearings have a different assembly procedure. I say ASSuming because there's no picture but I can assume you know the difference and have stated "tapered".




The assembly process for a tapered-roller, bigbearing wheel end is similar to that of a ballbearing style, but there are a couple of differences. The tapered-roller, big-bearing style is not sealed but shares the oil with the axle. Do not install a seal in the axle housing or the bearing will be starved of oil. The bearing comes pre-assembled with a pre-lubed bearing and seal as one unit plus the axle-retaining ring. These take the place of a ball bearing. There is still a retention plate and in some cases, a brake specific spacer ring is required on the axle shaft. So when you install these on the axle shaft, they go in the following order: retaining plate, spacer ring, seal/bearing (with seal toward the spacer ring), and retaining ring. The seal outside diameter is a slip-fit in the axle housing end and when you tighten the T-bolts in place, it draws the whole assembly into a preloaded condition. This preload causes the outer diameter of the seal to expand and seal into the housing. This is a very robust wheel end bearing, but it’s tricky to disassemble. You can re-use the seal, but be very careful when getting the already expanded outside diameter in the housing.

Thanks Greg, I'll call AM in the morning and see what they say. The race snugs in but spins and will snug right back out. Hopefully it's just another new set of bearings.

FYI, I did go see Jim and Rick yesterday.....didn't want you to think I'm not listening. :thumbsup:

The races are not supposed to press into the housing end like a front wheel bearing, otherwise they would be a mo-fo to impossible to ever change out. I think they are supposed to come out with the axles.

I just recently upgraded to these A20 bearings on my car, then promptly had to remove the axles to swap out my diff. On the passenger side the inner race came out with the axle with just a couple tugs of the flange, kind of like my old ball bearing bearings used to come out.

The driver side, the inner race stayed in the axle end while the rest of the bearing came out. I tried to get the inner race out a few different ways but it was just sort of hung up at one point (probably the seal itself hanging up on the housing end) so I just seated the race back into the back of the housing end. When it came time to reinstall the axle, I greased the bearing up real well and just slid the bearing back into the race. I hope the seal seals itself to the housing end again...time will tell.

Lance that's what has me concerned, if the race comes out or has some "play", what is stopping it from spinning in the housing?
I'll talk with Art Morrison and another place that's been recommended tomorrow and report back. I really hope it's the Chinese (National) bearings the machine shop pressed on, we'll see.

It shouldn't spin in the housing unless something else is going horribly wrong.

right once its torqued down the friction holds them down. Should not spin unless you have a seized bearing.


The first picture you posted. Does the brake mounting bracket act as a retainer or are you missing the axle retainer plate? Greg, do you remember?
The wider step of the seal should be flush to the housing end.

What were we talking about.....??? LOL


I don't remember what any of the parts he got look like -- they are off the Mustang we BMR / Ron Sutton replaced all my suspension. I just handed him a whole bunch of crap and said use what you can.

I've done a few of these brake swaps and I think that they're all basically the same with variations in the brackets etc.

What I don't want to mislead him on - or anyone else - is that we don't know the origins of the parts.... or their condition... etc. So I'm always cautious about just saying - "IT'S FINE". I'd rather have them check into the dimensions etc.... and make sure the tolerances are okay. What's loose to one guy is perfect for someone else that's done it a few times. But we're not there to feel or see.

Reminds my of Rudy's rear end that had Oldsmobile ends on a Ford 9".... Who does that!!??!! LOL

The wider step of the seal is flush with the housing and the brackets do act as the retainer plate, good to go there.

I'd rather learn why/how something works then just have it done for me, as frustrating as it can be...now I know. Art Morrison Ent.(Kevin) said the race is not a clearance fit. Slide the races in and once the axles slide in everything is good to go.
I appreciate the feedback and education on what to look for and how it works. I also appreciate all the parts I was given Greg, the pile is getting smaller as they get installed.
:thumbsup:

ok fine! Jeez :poke:

just curious, the first picture says the opposite but its hard to tell from the angle. :thumbsup: