What was the voltage at the blinker wire when just the parking lights and engine are on with the marker lights still installed?

I'm confused as to why removing the marker lights would fix the LED dash indicator bulbs from lighting, unless they're not really LED bulbs. If they were incandescent bulbs then I would say that you have a bad ground in the dash that needs to be fixed but if they really are LED bulbs then that doesn't make sense as a LED bulb would block current from flowing in the reverse direction through the ground. So are you sure they are LED bulbs?

Those LED side marker LEDs are tricky because they can be installed two ways. The wrong way has the diode backwards and back feeding I think.

Dash bulb LEDs would have same potential issue I think....

Don

Don you are right, side marker LEDs can be installed two ways. However, it will work one way only by rotating it 180 degrees/ reversing polarities. Dash indicator LEDs are the small LED diodes , which are there from the manufacturer.

Unfortunately, all the issues started to come after installing Digitail parking lights.

The problem is when the side marker LEDs are in, the intensity of the parking light increases/become brighter. The blinker brightness when it flashes is low. This scenario is when the engine is not running. I have checked the voltages but
I am going to record all the voltages this time and list down all the observations withand without the engine is running.

Below is the link to the side marker LEDs I have

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GR...b_b_asin_title

Just curious why you used the polarity reverse adapter? My setup (same as yours) is plug and play with no extra gadgets. Which electronic relays are you using. I initially tried using one without the ground wire and had issues. Switched to one with a built in ground wire and everything was good.

I have checked the voltage at parking light wire (brown) and blinker wire (blue):

-engine not running, parking light on, blinker off, LED side markers installed:
*Parking light voltage (passenger and driver side) is 25.4V
*Blinker wire voltage is 12.1V


-engine not running, parking light on, blinker off, LED side markers removed:
*Parking light voltage is 25.8V
*blinker wire voltage is 0V

-engine running,parking light on, blinker off, LED side markers installed:
*Parking light voltage is 29.5V
*Blinker wire voltage is around 15V
* blinker wire voltage when LED side markers remove is 0V


So it seems like the LED side markers when installed are feeding voltage to the blinkers (even being off). This is causing the blinker part is partially lit.



Here is the link to the LED side markers


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GR...ws_feature_div

As I said, this issue had become after installing Digitails parking light kit

I will try to run a wire from my battery negative terminal to the LED ground wire and see what will happen.

25.4 volts? That is some magical LEDs you have there... it’s like you’ve somehow implemented a voltage doubler. Hopefully Blitzer knows what’s going on.

Don

I'm pretty sure this car is possessed, you should immediately seek a priest and have him perform an exorcism on your car before it kills you. :hairpullout:

In post #23 you stated that the parking lamps get brighter when the marker LED lights are installed and the parking brake is on. This did make me think that there might be a voltage multiplier involved as the parking lamps should have gotten dimmer or stayed the same brightness. But I find it very hard to believe that you are measuring around 25V on the parking lamp wire. If that is truly the case then you should also be measuring something very close to that voltage at the cars battery. Actually it might help if you could include how you are taking these measurements. Specifically where are you placing the positive and negative leads of the meter?

Assuming that you really are measuring ~25V then try disconnecting the parking wire from the digitails and re-measuring the voltage again when the parking lights are on. If you are measuring the expected battery voltage then we can at least confirm that the digitails are indeed using a voltage multiplier in which case you could use a diode to block that excessive voltage from making its way back into the cars other electrical circuits.

But I got to say that there are other things that don't make sense to me but then again when you introduce a voltage that big where it doesn't belong it gets pretty difficult to determine why things are acting the way they are.

I would say my car is possessed because it never gets done��

My bad guys, it was dark when I took the voltage measurements and did not realize I was measuring AC voltage. That is why you saw such magical numbers.

Anyways, I did measure again and this time it is correct DC voltage:

-Engine not running, parking lights ON, LED side markers installed:
*voltage at parking light wire is around 11.9V
*voltage at blinker wire is around 5.9V

-Engine running, parking light ON, LED side markers installed:
*voltage at parking light wire is around 13.00V
*voltage at blinker wire is around 6.8V

Engine running, parking lights On, LED side markers removed:
*voltage at parking light wire is around 13.6V
*voltage at blinker wire is 0V


Earlier I was confused about why the 4 way flashers (front & rear) freeze when I apply the brakes. However, it seems to be normal as per the feedback from forum members.

I did run a ground wire from battery negative terminal to Digitails ground wire but no luck.

I hope this time it is clear now for you guys to guide me more on this issue

Sorry for the voltage confusion.

Ahh, much better. The first two sets of measurements confirms that there is a voltage being introduced onto the blinker circuit when the marker LED's are installed. The weird thing about this is that this should not be possible as the marker lights should only have one wire going to each light which is part of the parking light circuit.

When you were measuring the voltage on the blinker wire are you sure that the voltage was a positive 5.9V and 6.8V? If it were a negative voltage then you have a bad ground somewhere between one or more marker lights and the cars battery. Most likely the bad ground will be right at the marker light socket.

If it really was a positive voltage, then try unplugging the tail light bulbs and measuring again as the tail lights are another place where both the parking light and blinker circuit come together. The front parking lights are also another place, but in a previous post you stated that disconnecting the digitails blinker wire did not prevent the dash indicator bulbs from lighting so that means the digitails probably are not at fault.

Do you mean if it is negative voltage, it should show (-) sign next to the value on the voltmeter screen?

The voltage I got did not have any (-) negative sign on the screen.

I have just read in one of the painless wiring manuals that if there is a bad ground, it will find it is way to another source like the indicators on the dash cluster.

I will check the wiring again at the side marker and the parking light housing again