The front sub frame and suspension was all blown back apart for paint.

https://i.postimg.cc/NMbxxC1x/04-C09...4408-DB5-A.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/k47cKPt4/1-DEBF...-DF86-FA37.jpg

Then back together temporarily. Randy and the guys at D & Z Customs did a great job with everything and gave me a solid foundation for everything I had planned. Not to mention doing it in a short amount of time. Thanks Randy.

https://i.postimg.cc/DySZvSPm/19-F24...F847-A9-A3.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/YSKjytg0/BAD5-D...78-AA4-B16.jpg

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At this point I hauled the car back to my home shop to be blown apart again.

https://i.postimg.cc/d1h5KTRf/A94189...E4-D431-EA.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/rm7QyFQw/68-C87...43-B033-CD.jpg

I began attacking the time consuming stuff. I learned from my previous build to use Nicop for brake lines. I actually enjoy making them. I try to minimize the joints and I use stainless clamps to hold them in place. I was able to make the brake line from the proportioning valve to the rear axle in two pieces. Another little idea I came up with is to use heat shrink tubing on the lines were the clamps are. You just have to remember to slide it on before flaring your last fitting.
I used Banjo to A&N fittings for the steering rack as they provide the most clearance and the ability to clock them at any angle.

https://i.postimg.cc/52HnSSq1/57-B9-...913-A5-F08.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/cCXXXDb1/062-FA...F2-BD0-C45.jpg
Not the best picture but this is a example of a line I made with the heat shrink on at the clamp locations.

https://i.postimg.cc/hjqSnhpp/22-F25...A4-A9422-F.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/153WfQ88/B48-BC...48-AA70-A6.jpg

I’m using Speedway Motors Headers made by Dynatech. They have 1 7/8” primary tubes and O2 bungs. They are a mild steel header and fit great. I did not like the three bolt flange on the collectors so I cut and ground the welds to remove them. Then changed to stainless steel V-band type instead. Then I sent them off to M & R coatings in Kodak, TN. To get coated. They do great work at a reasonable price if your looking to have any exhaust components coated.

Interesting story on the headers. When I ordered the suspension and subframe, Speedway was out of the headers and I was told they were on backorder. After checking for weeks on end they told me the demand wasn’t there and they wouldn’t be getting any more. I tried going straight to the source but minimum order qtys and Speedway owning the design kept that from happening. I looked at the Church Boys Racing Headers and at Ultimate. But they didn’t work for my application. I twisted Speedways arm a little and they ordered five more headers and I got a set at half the price for my trouble. So if you need LS headers for a 62-67 Chevy II they have four more at half price. Here’s a link for anyone interested.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/G-Com...sh,205590.html

https://i.postimg.cc/tJ5m8RYj/575-EC...995-DEE8-D.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/4NYzDNKQ/16-D76...B952913-A1.jpg

The car looks great. Love the paint scheme. Keep up the great work!

Thanks Trey. I see your in Ga. I've heard they have a great Cars and Coffee scene there. I was in Franklin, NC until about four years ago. Hope to move back in a few years.

I am using a Ricks restomod fuel tank. I opted for the internal corner pickups. As I mentioned earlier my fuel fill location needed to be changed. Randy was able to get me a heavy walled stainless filler neck that was welded into the new location. I was concerned I might have some fuel slosh issues so to counter this I made a few things to deal with this. First the fill tube is extended into the tank several inches, second the end in the tank has a reverse facing piece of metal that acts like a dam in the lower third of the filler. Fuel goes in like a ramp but fuel trying to go out is partially blocked. I used a short piece of hose between the tank neck and the actual filler that is a 89-97 Ford Ranger upper neck. I chose this because it had two features I wanted. First it has a nozzle flap like the late model cars and second it’s a tube in tube design again to deal with any fuel slosh. The last thing I did was create a internal flap that is hinged on the end of the tube inside the tank. Probably overkill.

https://i.postimg.cc/fWK2zLR4/F64-BC...14-E39-A72.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/4yJWvCwF/CC3-C3...CABA1-BCA8.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/85dyrkd6/A325-D...BB0-ADAEFA.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/hPZ2m5mp/8-A2-F...-F8612-C05.jpg

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I was real excited when this crate arrived.

https://i.postimg.cc/BbVn534q/01-F7-...B0-DD11-F2.jpg

This is a Blueprint engines 427 LS. 625HP and 565 ft. Lbs of torque. I’m using their long block so I could select the external items to fit my needs. Its a LS3 based stroker that has an all forged bottom end, Mahle forged pistons and rings, ARP rod bolts, Melling oil pump, and 12 degree 255 cylinder heads that rotates the valve angle from the 15 degree angle of the standard LS3 to similar to the LS7.

The old and the new.
https://i.postimg.cc/TYBPpTt0/FA5-AB...0-E6-FA364.jpg

The one thing I missed during mock up that caused lots of head scratching and some challenges to overcome was the oil pan. I had a Holley 302-2 oil pan I used to mock up and it fit great. The longer stroke of the new engine didn’t clear the pan. The new Holley pan 302-3 is good for up to 4.00” stroke but I am at 4.125” stroke. The original Holley pan 302-1 would work for the engine, but the sump is too deep for my liking and hung below the cross member. In addition the front of the pan was to deep for my steering rack. So after looking into lots of oil pans I selected the Mast Motorsports stroker pan. I prefer the cast pans and it had all the clearance I needed or so I thought. For those studying oil pans here is a comparison to the 302-2 Holley pan.

https://i.postimg.cc/3wTJFn5D/14-D2-...-A60-CD1-A.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/bYCrfxbK/EE9600...4-F1-C06-A.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/VkyYzDNH/0114-C...1077-C09-B.jpg
The Mast pans have those kick outs in just the right places to clear the rods. I am using their pickup and windage tray as well, all designed for the longer stroke. The only thing I didn’t like about the pan is the cast in baffles but no trap doors for oil control. I was using the Improved Racing baffle trap door assembly in the Holley pan and I really liked it.

Thanks Andyd, I like lots of details.

When I test fit the engine and the Mast pan I created a new clearance issue. The left front portion of the pan didn’t clear a steering rack fitting. I had to cut out a small notch and create a piece to go back in place to clear it.

Before shot.
https://i.postimg.cc/4dhGCcgT/0-FAE1...83-F794264.jpg

After shot

https://i.postimg.cc/Y9P5bCGy/CBC3-B...3-AFC31-C6.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/kXPJmTGY/BD91-D...54-A6424-D.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/GpLnpNnz/CC2573...924-BA8-F1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/7LFc2Qpp/9458-F...815-DCFF63.jpg

Next up was to create a trap door baffle for the pan. I started by cutting out the cast baffle in the pan. Then I started with a Improved Racing baffle for a Holley pan. The first issue is the Mast pickup is clocked 180 degrees opposite of the Holley so this meant the lower part of the trap door had to rotate 180 degrees as well.
Here is what I started with.

https://i.postimg.cc/pdSv1Z3Z/D232-B...0-F3-B7-C9.jpg


Here is the Mast baffle laid over the Improved Racing trap door.

https://i.postimg.cc/fWqqTT0f/80740-...-D9-E28-B1.jpg

The pickup difference. Mast on the left, Holley on the right.

https://i.postimg.cc/sxLTnwRN/1-C593...AC39-F2122.jpg

And here is what I ended up with. It took way to much time to make this piece.

https://i.postimg.cc/htSKJh99/86-D53...-DC28-CAFB.jpg

While fitting the pickup I decided to make the little hold down to use the second bolt on the oil pump. You can buy these but I was ready to button up the pan and didn’t want to wait so I made this one out of some scrap metal.
https://i.postimg.cc/CKBXdV6G/296613...-A005-D6-E.jpg

Before buttoning it all up I ran the Pan, and baffle through the dish washer to give it a good cleaning. Since it was not oily the wife approved. She has gotten used to parts coming into house for various reasons over the years.

The Speedway motor mount plates that attach to the block position the motor really well but they are made of steel and felt very heavy. The other thing I didn’t like was they used some separate spacers to position the actual motor mounts. This is just a pet peave but I hate have to line up bolts, spacer, motor mounts, and engine plates. So I decided to make some lighter weight ones out of 6061 Aluminum to save weight and incorporate the spacers in the design so I don’t have to worry about them falling out and rolling off when taking things in and out. Also saved 2.8 lbs ! My oldest son is a CNC machinist and enjoyed the challenge. He did a great job. This is probably the fifth or sixth set of LS mounts he’s made for me for various projects.

https://i.postimg.cc/GttMJ66D/161-D1...CBA8-C13-E.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/9MJ89cgV/C10143...-C15735414.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/k4jJ9CVx/06-F15...D60-F2-FCF.jpg

I was able to reuse my flywheel clutch and throw out bearing as they didn’t even have fifty mile on them. I am using a GM LS7. I checked the flywheel for runout and checked the bell housing alignment using a Bowler test fixture.

https://i.postimg.cc/hGL82yJF/EB662-...E9-DB9-F45.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/d0PmmPVm/A945-B...F589-E7-E7.jpg

I made a little trip to the other side of Illinois to pick up this.

https://i.postimg.cc/gjnY27R1/C5-D79...-DC3-ACB95.jpg

Tremec T-56 Magnum-F six speed from Bowler Transmissions. Thanks Mark and Tom.
https://i.postimg.cc/T24d4Rvx/E7-B34...7110-AE0-A.jpg

Using a Summit Racing SFI harmonic balancer (4th gen F-body spacing)with ARP bolt.

https://i.postimg.cc/HW4Krz3h/5-F447...C48-EF88-C.jpg

All bolted together for the final install I hope.

https://i.postimg.cc/NfF4QknT/DCA204...2-C78953-B.jpg

Going to install the engine, transmission, subframe and All suspension as one assembly. So Time for some front brakes. I’m using Wilwood Forged Superlite 6R 14” Corvette front brakes.

https://i.postimg.cc/HnRTct9n/5-BB7-...-BD7771918.jpg

My oldest son came to the rescue again and machined me some custom aluminum spacers for the caliper mounting bolts. They use a special shouldered bolt. My spindle ears are different than the factory Corvette spindles.

https://i.postimg.cc/Qdrr2C62/5-FD09...FD987180-C.jpg

Great write up and I love the attention to detail and ingenuity... going to be an awesome ride! What are plans for intake, injectors, etc. for the LS7? Also, what are you using for ECU?

Brian


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Brian I am going to run a LS3 intake and injectors as my engine is LS3 based. I am planning for a Holley Terminator Max ECU.