Something is going on. I know that Wayne had mock up motors that he used to make sure everything worked, cleared, etc. He and I specifically discussed that on several occassions as my Dart block is a bit different than a standard SBC and requires a special pan, so clearances were always a concern for me.

Is that pan deeper than stock? What motor mounts are you using?

The pan may indeed be deeper. I asked in post 1 if anyone could confirm the stock pan as I do not have one to compare it to. This was my first thought as to the problem. I was told that the 4" measurement I took from my pan was the same as another members that had a stock 396. From this info, I decided the pan was the same as stock. Could the member that told me this be mistaken? I do not know, anything is possible of course. I do know my pan has a larger capacity than stock overall, I do not know if all of that volume is made up where the sump is or not.

I am using what I believe are "stock style" BB motor mounts. I bought these new from Jegs (IIRC). The mounts I am using have the center of the bolt (connects motor to frame) to the block at approx. 2.5"

I am still open to suggestions if anyone has one. I am not tearing into it until tomorrow.

you would think wayne would help you out with this, i am sure he is still finishing frames up, and with as many people on the board who have bought from him he would help.
maybe someone can put a call in

I emailed him about the problem and sent him a link to the thread on pro-touring when I first posted the question. This is the reply:

Pan
 

Sorry Josh,
Completely misread your post. I didn't see the pictures while at work.
Kevin

No problem at all. Although I did not understand your post, I was going to ask before I gave up hope! Thanks for trying to help me.

I chickened out on cutting the pan. I was not worried about the leaks (I am a certified welder) but it would get ugly and take up more time... I think what I ended up doing looks pretty good... sorta..... Here are pics of the fix:

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/9884/1030692me8.jpg

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/6916/1030693wr7.jpg

Here are a few general picks I took before I came in tonight that I thought I would share of the project.

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/9461/1030694tx1.jpg

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/1994/1030700ay6.jpg

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/3922/1030703pb2.jpg

http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/7882/1030704cc4.jpg



Thanks again everyone for helping me figure this thing out!

This is a drag race car or a trailer queen right ??

The reason I ask, is because those little ity bity DynaLite calipers are going to melt when trying to slow down a full bodied big block chassis on the street. You might want to re-think that part of your build.

BTW, nice fix on the pan. Simple, cost effective money and time-wise and non-intrusive.... :thumbsup:

Are DynaLite and Wilwood calipers the same? These are the calipers that Wayne sent with the kit.

Dynalites are a specific line of calipers made by Wilwood, mostly for sub 3000-lb cars. They'll be OK on the street, but like Chicane said, they'll heat up real quick (much like an OEM caliper). I wouldn't do any repeated hard stops.

To clarify:
I'm not nervous about notching anything, just that it would possibly be one more thing to do and add to a very long list of to-do's. When time is limited and your working out of your house garage and don't have access to Tig, plasma cutters, etc, etc, it gets to be a PITA when you have to fab something.

Packaging is key, and that's the reason kits and such are so popular. When I buy a $5000 subframe I don't expect to, nor do I want to have to notch or move anything for it to fit what the car could have orignally came with, a BBC.

Does that mean that the guy working out of his garage or isn't a star fabricator should limit his expectaitions or goals to minimal upgrades and standard bolt-ons?