The top of the hood will be red and the bottom will be left Carbon to match the carbon valve covers.

Pickle Kisser.

Your phone shall ring today.

The only thing I did to Penny during her "re-do" that added weight was go from the glass hood to the metal hood. I imagine this is quite a bit lighter. Knowing Mark the fitment is going to be good as well. I think these would sell great if the price was right. Heck, the $600 billet hood hinges are selling great and this hood actually has a performance benefit.

I heard this hood weighs 20 lbs.. what does a stock steel hood weigh? 80 lbs? That would be 60 lbs off the high side of the front of the car. :woot:

They should make two versions. One where the CF is nice enough not to have to clear and a cheaper version that would need paint but still have the weight savings. Just an idea :)

I may also be interested in a carbon hood down the road, these look great.

Derek

Let hope Mark will put all hes great ideas to production.I am sure there would be good market for hi quality parts like these fantastic hoods. Can we get rear spoiler ? Trunk lid ? Carbon fiber fender struts ? Door panels? :woot:

Composition
 

That's a really good looking hood. I've considered taking on the same challenge for my second gen in the future, as I'm really starting to get into carbon fiber. You said it had two layers, does that refer to one layer on each side of a honeycomb or two layers per side. I'm assuming that you are using honeycomb. Also, did you use a wet layup or prepreg? Just curious, I'm trying to learn about composites so I can apply them to my project.

Chris

WOW.. Very nice!! :yes:

With regards to what Chris said:

also, any kind of a gel coat used? Vacuum Bagged?

If it's priced right and they are using prepregs, it would be a miricle. I worked and sold these types of materials. They are NOT cheap by any means. and being a prepreg the resin is also premixed, meaning that the material has to be kept cool or it will start it's bonding and crosslinking process, thus ruining itself. In many cases after it sets up at room temp, it will also go into an oven for a stepped heat cure. The final cure gives it really good deminsional stability and hardness.

My guess, wet lay up and vacuum bagged. I'm interested to see if this is correct.

tyoneal

Hot Bonder
 

Don't necessarily need an oven - but you do need a vac and heat source to cause the epoxy to finish cross-linking and final cure. In aviation we have ovens (autoclaves) in our shops - but more and more aircraft primary structures are composite - and those can't be removed from the jet. When it gets delaminated or damaged (damn catering trucks ...) - we repair them right on the aircraft and use portable 'hot-bonders' that have built in vac systems, single, dual or triple heat controllers with silicon heating pads - and all that is computer controlled and the cure cycle is printed on a tape - or dumped to a computer file for the repair record. There are several manufactures of these and most of the military units carry them in the field. Brisk makes one, HeatCon makes another. Aeroform, etc. I have a 2 heat circuit hot bonder at home with about 5 rolls of carbon pre-preg in my freezer..... Maybe I'll copy Mark and do my widened porsche hood with that.

I'll post some pictures of mine if you guys are interested.

Jim

For the DIYers in the group:

http://www.turbomustangs.com/techart...arbonfiber.php

John