Sorry but I ahave no experience with this product. Anybody measure bumpsteer? Ackerman? Got a link? Until I see otherwise, it comes back to the crossmember being in the way. I just ordered a steering box from Tyler for the AirRide car because I have little faith in the rack conversion kits.

Here we go again......
http://homepage.mac.com/streetfytr/....g/IMG_0284.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/streetfytr/....g/IMG_0346.jpg

Steve,
I have to take a minute to tell you that your car is the reason mine no longer is a driver! after seeing it in one of the magazines, the bell went off in my head saying "hey, I can do that" now it's three years later and the car is completly apart.... Thanks... No worries, just poking fun.
It must be nice to be able to drive and compare such a variety of suspension set ups, How does the C5 clips compare to the C4 variety? You can see from the prior posts that I'm going down the C4 route. I'm building my own, but mostly emulating the Wayne Due clip you are running. Can you share any insight into the design? anything you would improve, anything that you don't care for? I also would like to replicate your cage, I've read somewhere that the cages must be approved and stamped before you can complete all the welding, do you have any insight into that? Don't mean to Hi Jack the thread, but I think it fits within the theme.
Mills

Mills,
Your welcome and I'm sorry. :lol: I know how the project thing goes. Hang in there and thanks for the kind words. Both C4 and C5 clips work awesome. The biggest concern with the C4 stuff is the available clearance for coil-overs to pass thru the upper a-arms. In order to get the camber curve right, the UCA inner pivot points must be moved inwards towards the vehicle centerline. But doing so consumes clearance for the top of the coil-overs. Correcting this issue requires notching the framerails unless you have the ability to narrow the distance between the rails. It's a compund problem: Your first instinct is to set framerail width such that it is convenient to body bushing placement. You then build from there. LCA placement is next. That is dictated by ball joint position and scrub raduis numbers. By the time you get to UCA placement you realize that you have run out of room for coil over packaging. Bummer.
To avoid this problem, consider sucking in the framerails a bit and leave the suspension where it needs to be. This will help to make rook for the coil-overs. Consider running less backspacing than might seem ideal. That sounds like a compromise until you look at the big picture. LCA placement will move out some relative to the rails and then all is good for UCA and coil-over placement. On the stock ARDF clip they did not leave enough room for the coil-overs so they moved the UCA's out to try and compensate which, in turn, killed the camber curve. And they were stuck running a short 10" spring coil-over. Which was useless since the ride height was 13-7/8" eye to eye and the extended length of the coilover was 14". It's like an Abbott and Costello who's on first skit. In my case, to fix this w/o starting from scratch, I switched to shorter AFCO uppers AND relocated the upper mounts.
As you package your front suspension, try to make room for a coil over with a 12" spring and raise the upper mount. The longer the better. That should help the ride quality. The C5 car accomplishes the same handling and stability with much better ride characterisitics because the geometry is less aggressive. Be warned that you still might need to notch the framerails for coil-over clearance.
Also note that the rack and harmonic damper need to occupy the same space so the engine will need to go back and up. The rack/bumpsteer has been discussed before. But the coil-over concern is more obscure.
I suggest that you purchase wheels, tires and coil-overs as well as hanging sheetmetal before doing any final welding. In addition to the coil-over clearance issue, you might need to "roll" the front suspension forward to compensate for static caster. I run only 3 positive degrees static caster. You might want more.

Good luck and fel free to call me if you need any measurements.

Steve,
Thanks for the info, I suspected that the coilover may be a problem with the WD setup, I noticed on several frame pics that the frames are notched in that area. Right now I have my outside dimensions on my frame at 35", but I may be able to move them in a bit more. I'm mock my engine back up with the headers to check clearence issues. My stock hubs measure 60". I was running 15x7 (Z-28) wheels with a 265 50 15 tire, This is almost the same size OD and Width as the 275 50 17's on my late model T/A, I had them inside the fender lip, but just barely. By my calcs, I need to pull the wheels in about 1 to 1.5 inches on each side to clear at all wheel travel positions. I want to run the same tire and wheel as my T/A, (also the same as my wife's vette), The stock offset on the wheels will do this for me. So I have the wheel/tire combo, I also have the coilovers but they came off a WD chassis, so I suspect I'm stuck with the 10" springs, but I can buy new ones.

I'm in the process now of doing the frame layout and the suspension dimensions. I would really like to talk to you about this offline of this forum. Can you PM me with a number and time, and I'll give you a ring.

Mills

Anytime. Email and phone number are at my website:

http://www.twistmachine.com