You guys are on the right track. I'm sure that Any one of the top three clips offer excellent geometry. Any one will deliver obscene levels of performance and make your car incredibly easy to drive at speed. My current experience is limited to stock, 21st, and my own modified ARDF clips. But I have implicit confidence in AME and DSE's suspension geometry.

So instead of pounding on the walls screaming for camber curves, I suggest you sweat the details such as "Do I want the fabricated look or the formed look.

Now lets clear up some misconceptions that I read above:
1) AME's clip is NOT --under any circumstances--flimsy. Art has been building race car chassis for decades and maintains a full time engineering presence. That experience has led them to learn the difference between strong and heavy. As one of the few companies with the ability to mandrel bend rails, their clip deserves serious consideration. It's probably the best combination of price and features on the market.
2) Hydroformed rails or not, DSE's clip does not look anything like a stock clip in person. The coolest thing about this product is the stamped crossmember that allows the rack to sit exactly where it needs to be. This is hard to accomplish with ordinary square tubing.
3) As Jake stated, raised engine position is a non-issue from a performance standpoint and a minor issue with respect to installation. Mr. Hammer, meet Mr. Trans Tunnel. Mr. Trans Tunnel, meet Mr. Hammer.

P.S.
Although I recommended the 21st clip for Ty's project, I would probably pick the Morrison clip for my own project.

Agreed completely. But if you're not buying from one of the "top three", I would not have implicit confidence in the geometry. Putting a tall ball joint on a Mustang II spindle might create geometry every bit as good as a well-engineered C5/C6 vette-based setup. Then again - probably not. The only way to know is to ask.


I don't know about the late-model style T-56, but I've swapped in a couple of aftermarket t-56s with adapter plates and early-style (longer) bellhousing. These require some significant clearancing at the front of the tunnel, and fit very tight in some other spots. If you raised the motor another inch, I don't see how you would get away without some tunnel fabrication - although to keep it in perspective that kind of fab is pretty easy compared to, say, roll bar or mini-tub.

I hope i didnt sound like meaning its flimsy or anything related. It dosnt need a rocket engineering to understand at its way stronger than anything wich came from factory. Personally i think it looks ( not so wide frame rails as stock) little bit "airy" ( is there even a word like airy??? ) at least in the picture where there is lot of gap between inner fender and frame rail. But after some trimming of the inner fender to make it go with same line as frame i think it wont differ from stock any more.