Clutch fork needs to be 5-7 degrees toward the front. The angle was achieved using th adjustable ball. Notice how far the stud from the ball sticks out. Once marked it was pulled back apart to cut the excess off.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/2...ires256fc0.jpg

MMMMMMMM....... 5-speed finally in place
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/2...ires257xb1.jpg

Now we are cookn'
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/8...ires258hy6.jpg
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/1...ires260to8.jpg

Refurbished and redesigned throttle linkage done tonight. Another part with way too much time in.

before

http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/7...ires215mm7.jpg
http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/7...ires220xj1.jpg


after

http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/5...ires262yq2.jpg
http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/5...ires261vj8.jpg

Maybe you think too much time but it looks well worth it.

Thanks

I don't really think its too much time. I just can't stand not being able to drive the car yet. Some days I want to just throw the rest together. :yes:

Brakes are on and now the rolling chassis is basicly complete. A few things to deal with in the body and then its time to finally start putting it all back together. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/3...ires263gp5.jpg

http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/8...ires264ef2.jpg

http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/2...ires266if1.jpg

http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/9...ires265bz0.jpg

Your lucky most of my partsare still in boxes

I was like that for 6 months of collecting parts before I started



Got a little done this afternoon. Curiosity has been killing me as to how this original paint will turn out if I spend a little time on it. Well I did a little test spot and it going to come out a lot better than I thought it might.

This is a quick before and after of how it will look.
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/5...ires282ad2.jpg
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4...ires283xg1.jpg


The main thing I wanted to do today was fix the RH rear body mount. I parted out the most rusty 67 442 convertible I have ever seen a few months before starting this build. Not one body bolt did not come right out in that car but my rust free 66 had the RH rear bolt spin on me. I cut it off with a sawsall
the day I took the body off.

After thinking about it I decided to go through the bottom to keep from disturbing the perfect original paint in the trunk. I cut the piece out with a 1/16" wheel which was the smallest I could find. It still made the gap a lot larger than I wanted but it worked out in the end. I had to fill the big gap and I suck at welding upside down so the repair is not very pretty but it will work.
http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/8...ires271ci5.jpg


After cutting out the pieces I blasted it off and put it in a vise to compress the cage back together so the square nut would not spin. I welded a nut to the piece of bolt and was able to get it right out while still hot.
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/5...ires273od2.jpg

To help keep the same thing from happening again I decided to brace the cage a little by welding a coulpe pieces if 1/8" scrap.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/1...ires275is8.jpg

I wanted to get it welded back in as flush as possible. So I used weld studs to give myself a handle to push or pull.
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4...ires276dr4.jpg

Other than dressing the welds here it is finished up.
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/2...ires280im4.jpg

Nice job on all aspects!

Thanks man. I hope to be showing it off in person soon and you can tell me what you think.

And she inches closer

A little was done today got the dash, 4 speed pedals, and heater box together on the inside and the firewall mostly together on the outside. Also got the gas tank back in place. I then finished assembing the floor shift column I am converting to. Working with all the new painted areas today was pretty nerve racking. Not near a forgiving as the powder coating. Made a nick here and there but not anything anyone will even notice.

The last thing I was working on tonight was driveline angles. Ended up having to raise the back of the transmission 1/2" to get a 2.25* front and 2.5* rear working angle. Thanks go out to Andrew with the GTO for posting this link and talking about this in his build. It helped me figure it out quicky.
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_...aft_Angles.htm

I wanted to make sure that was done before I get the body back on. The last thing I need to raise the floor to clear the trans and then not have enough clearance to get the driveline right.

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8...ires289qi6.jpg

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/5...ires287jc1.jpg

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/5...ires286mq5.jpg

Don't know if it was the scatter shield or the aftermarket shift arm or combo of both but there was not near enough clearance for the shift fork to move back. Had to spend a few minutes with a die grinder.
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/9...ires290zt6.jpg

I opened the new body mounts for the first time today. One mount on each side would not fit. The hole in the frame was a lot smaller on that one mount. I don't know if if it was a misboxed product but I did not want to wait a week to get the right part. My first thought was to trim the frame out to match the other holes but I did not want to cut the powder coating. I then decided to cut the rubber down. I think I cam up with a pretty cleaver way to do it after brain storming a little while.

I first measured the size of the old original bushing. I then found a 3/8 fender washer that was close to the size but still apox .075 big. I took a long 3/8 bolt and nut and tightened it all together. I then chucked it up in the drill press. With a file I cut the washer down to the exact size I wanted to cut the rubber to. Now I had a perfect guide. I took the long 3/8 bolt with my new resized washer and another washer on the back side. I centered the guide washer on the rubber bushing and tighened it snug enough to hold. Chucked up in the drill and carefully used a razor blade to trim the rubber pefectly to the size of the washer. Hear is a cut one next to an uncut.
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/4...ires291uw2.jpg

I wanted to be really close when setting down the body. So I used two plumb bobs. One front and one in the oppisite rear corner. I little scooting around on the jack and the frame was exactly where I wanted it.
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/1...ires292km7.jpg

My plan was to always try to use this factory console I picked up off EBAY last year. I used a hole saw to get the shifter stub though the floor. I then drew and outline of where the console would sit. Well long story short I will not be using the console. Once the minimal cutting was done to clean the transmission I was well outside my outline for the console. I could still make it work but it would require a good bit of modification to the console. I paid way to much for this thing to risk messing it up. Its probably for the best. My daughter likes to walk between the seats from the back to get out of the car. When she stepped on it and broke it I might has had to kill her :lol: I just going to put it up for sale so someone with a original car can use it.
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/1...ires294ju3.jpg

Here is the bare minimum cutting it took to clear the Tremec TKO600. If you do not have your transmisson shimmed up 1/2" in back like mine you you may not have to cut as much. I plan on cleaning up the cuts and start covering it up Sunday
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/3...ires295ea9.jpg

Don't think I need any expanation here
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/6...ires296po8.jpg

-Richard

Freakin sweet. You're moving right along now so it won't be long.

Lookin' good! Just think, if you get it done quickly enough, you can head up to MD and help me finish mine! :D

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

Looks great! It's always nice to get the body back on the frame!

Its not officially on the frame yet. I had it down to cut the floor so I had to snap a pic. It getting close though. :yes:

Got a little done today. Once I finish the floor its time to put it all together to drive.

Cleaned up next to the hole with scotch brite disc
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/6...ires297yg3.jpg

Made it out of poster board first.
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/9...ires300zi2.jpg

Don't be jelous of my high dollar metal forming equipment.
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/4...ires301eg1.jpg

First piece in.
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/5...ires302jd9.jpg

Starting to take shape. Still need to make the back piece and finish welding it all up.
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/4...ires311rw1.jpg

Looks awsome :thumbsup:

Thanks


Its been a little while since I worked on it. I've had 30 min here and there but today I spent most of the day. Finshed welding up the tunnel, dressed the welds, cut the hole, smoothed a little mud on the seams, and sprayed it in bare metal epoxy.

Now I just need to spray it in black and the tunnel is done. Next up buff and clean of the body and its ready to back on bolt on.

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/2...lass001mo8.jpg

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/1...lass004xa6.jpg

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/8...lass006ob9.jpg

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/5...lass007nd3.jpg

Nice work on the tunnel!

Looks great!! :thumbsup:

Thanks gents' :yes:

I can't do it....I just can't put the body on with out making the paint and trim as best best as I possibly can. After painting the tunnel I stripped all the trim off the body. Going to do everything I can to make the original paint look good/ then I will detail all the trim. Just digging a little deeper. :willy:


http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/6...lass010qq7.jpg

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/8...lass008kg2.jpg

Going to feel much better now. Got a good bit done to the car today. Started by washing it down good and masking everything off to keep from slinging compound everywhere. I sanded it all with 2000 just enough to smooth things out a bit. The factory paint still has a good bit of peel but I did not want to risk cutting through so I was very conservtive in my sanding. I then washed it again to get the sanding sludge off. Finally I buffed it all with a wool pad and 3M Perfect It II compund and washed it again. I still need to polish with a foam pad to remove the swirls. Its still not going to be anywhere near as nice as new paint but its at least 70% better than it was.

Everyone needs a color sanding assistant.
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/2...lass011hg4.jpg

All sanded...no turning back now
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/2...lass012fj6.jpg

And buffed
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/7...lass017jb8.jpg
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/4...lass018mt9.jpg
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/6...lass019nw6.jpg

Wow!
 

That reflection in the last pic looks pretty good to me my friend!! :yes:

Nice job on the paint, it looks good to me. Ve3ry nice shine!

Nice to see something different getting built:thumbsup:

Thanks guys. I went out after dinner and worked a little more. Started on the polish with a foam waffle pad. The two panels I did cleared up all the haze and fine scratches from the wool pad. Its too dark to get good pics but I will say this 42 year old paint is going to look damn good from 5 feet away and farther. :yes: If it was not for the top surfaces having little crazing and tiny cracks all over I would not even have to paint it later.

I look forward to seeing the pictures

Very nice!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

Off work today for Turkey day so I got the body back home finally.

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/9...ools002no4.jpg

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/1...ools003zj9.jpg

Well the holidays are over and I finally got in the shop a little this weekend. Managed to get the valve covers sanded and repainted. Then was carefully fitting and assembling the painted and powder coated parts on the motor. Here is a before I started pic and what its looking like now,

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/6...ires024qm9.jpg

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/4...ools036ku3.jpg

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/2...ools038cy4.jpg

Looks GREAT my friend! It won't be long now... (c:]
V/R,
Ty

Just finished reading the previous 12 pages and all I can say is Fantastic job !!! Your attention to detail is what makes your build. Watching as you work out a solution to a problem and move on to the next item is the way to do it. Too many guys get bogged down with problems, but with some time and creative thinking, there is nothing that can't be sorted out. Actually, that's where the true fun of the build is.

Paul

Thanks Paul the problem with being anal about details is everytime I make something right then something next to it no longer does. :willy:

nice work
 

car is looking really nice .good job all the refinishing :thumbsup:


tom

Thanks Tom

Lots of little preparation stuff going on right now so not much to report. I did pull the front suspension apart today again. The black zinc plating that came on the cross shafts on the upper control arms was rusting just from the humitity. It was driveing me crazy so I pulled them off and cleaned up, primed and painted them.

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8...036copyhk4.jpg

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/1...lass001ur4.jpg

I also have been tinkering with the wiper motor this week. Ever since I was a little kid I have had a problem with having to take things apart to see how it was put together. As an adult in my mid 30's I am still just as bad.

Over all it was not too hard to get apart. The hardest part was getting the staked motor cover off But it was a waste of time. There is a bronze bushing with a plate welded over it so it can't be removed for plating. It came off pretty easy after I spend time trying things that didn't work. What did work is clamping around the magnetic body with a chain vice grip wrench and clamping the wrench in a vice. I then used a rubber strap wrench to turn the cap when pulling outward and it spun off after getting it going.

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/1...ools042kl9.jpg

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/5...ools053zk6.jpg

Still waiting on some plating to finish but got the hard part done today.
Cleaned everything real good in the parts washer and blasted the aluminum with walnut shells. I painted the motor cover and put the main housing back on the the motor and cover. I then resoldered the motor wires I had disconnected. The hardest part came next. No matter how hard I tried I could not get the mail shaft, white gear and the drive plate down far enough to seat the snap ring. After some head scratching I decided to sacrifice a socket by making a window. It worked perfect pressing it with a c-clamp and was back together in seconds when I did that.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/8289/cutlass002oa8.jpg

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6561/cutlass003ff5.jpg

I was off today so I was able to get in the shop a little this afternoon.

I got the original carpet back in. Its a little short now on the sides do to the taller tunnel but it will do for now. Installed the shifter boot after that. If anyone uses this boot make sure to mark you holes with the metal retainer plate. I used the rubber boot and that was a mistake. Some of the holes did not quite line up so I had to get creative with some of the screw angles.

I then started wireing up the TKO600 too. After thinking about how to do it the best way I used the reverse and neutral switches on the transmission to control ground on a couple relays. I went through the facory firewall grommet to the inside of the car. I was able to position the relays so I did not have to cut or splice the original wires at all. Just pulled the wires out of the plug ends and on to the relay. If I ever have a neutral saftey relay go out the reverse relay is right there so I have a back up so i am not standed for mor than a minute. Power to the relays will come from the power window spade in the fuse block.

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/7871/stuff007dv2.jpg

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9023/stuff001br6.jpg

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/2518/stuff003fm5.jpg

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6614/stuff002na2.jpg[/img]

Moving along..

Well a while back I had a horrible rechome job done Mr G's on a real floor shift gauge bezel I had picked up. I still have the stripped one I picked back up from them but I had an idea. My original column shift bezel is in excellent condition and I happen to have a junk dash out of a 67. After a little measuring I discovered there is one place next the the light switch thats just big enough to cut out a section of the groved material.

I cut it out was a little demmel saw and then got it close with a belt sander. Final fitting was done by hand. The very corners were into the smooth area so I cut groves by hand with a tiny file. Once I get a little touch up paint on it you will never know. 8)

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8916/stuff018.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/6840/stuff017.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/7352/stuff019.jpg

I wanted a little bit of custom touch to the outside of the car and here is what I did. The factory light silver in some of the side mouldings was chipped up and rubbed off so it needed to be redone. I still had some of the dark gray the wheels were done in so that is the color the inserts of the mouldings now. The gray and black with polished stainless looks killer against the red.


http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/5859/stuff021.jpg

http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/5808/stuff028.jpg

http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/9145/stuff030.jpg