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-   -   383 6spd 80Z Camaro EFI (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12374)

woody80z28 07-13-2015 07:59 PM

Made a blockoff plate for the wiper motor hole in the cowl. Once I cut that part of the firewall out it would have been a waterfall inside the car! Also got some standoffs on Amazon to mount the EFI HEI coil on the firewall...I think it will work out nice.

Cut off the wings on the rad support, widened the opening and then bolted them back on. Should keep the air right where it needs to be...and if I have to take them off at some point it's just 4 bolts. I also finalized the radiator mounts and drilled some drainage holes so it doesn't fill with water.

Picked up an AMD deck filler too and WOW it fits like ****! I'll be better off fixing my OEM one and sending that POS back.

http://www.motortopia.com/files/141/...a/IMG_0206.jpg
http://www.motortopia.com/files/141/...b/IMG_0213.jpg
http://www.motortopia.com/files/141/...6/IMG_0208.jpg
http://www.motortopia.com/files/141/...3/IMG_0210.jpg
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http://www.motortopia.com/files/141/...3/IMG_0211.jpg

woody80z28 10-20-2015 08:49 PM

Ok...no updates in a while. Partially because I've been busy with other stuff...partially because my photo hosting site sucks now. So I switched to photobucket.

Got the basic body work done on all the steel and put down epoxy. Hit the inside of the new door skins with Lizard Skin sound control. Put the door skins on and sealed the seams. Rebuilt the hinges, aligned the doors and burned some of the new seam sealer welding the god awful door gaps on the driver side. What's the best way to seal all that back up after the metal work is done? I'm a little worried about the folded over area with the skin & frame where it all had a nice coat of epoxy & sealer that is now burned off I'm sure.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psk66t78ev.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psezcadkyn.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskk3p075t.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pssfmngqlp.jpg

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http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psugtuiqge.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psz5mergfi.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psxvdg6j4p.jpg

woody80z28 10-20-2015 08:50 PM

And I've been working on a brake retrofit. I did the 13.4" C6 Z51 brakes up front and it made the 11.6" Blazer rotors out back look tiny. So I wanted to engineer an interchangeable rotor combo for drag & street wheels. C6 Z51 rear rotors are 13.0" and I found that C6 Z06 rear rotors are 13.4"-and a visual match to the Z51 fronts. So the graphic designer in me has to make it happen.

The ebrake shoe is the same between Blazer and Vette. Check. Center bore is the same. Check. Offset is way off - but a spacer behind the backing plate will fix that. Rotor thickness is about 0.200" different...but shaving pads will fix that. There is enough difference in radius between the 11.6 and 13.4 to make an extension bracket to hang the Blazer caliper further out on the big rotor. So I made some templates out of plastic at work and got it all figured out. I just need to fab the final ones out of steel.

By using the Blazer caliper and pads (which are bigger) I can swap between street & drag brakes without bleeding the calipers or popping out the axles. Should be a 10min job per side. I like the sound of that. Oh - and I found GG friction rated Blazer pads at Advance so I'm all good to go there. Maybe this car will even stop after the rebirth!

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psgnsh5ixg.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psvujddbzo.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psk2x8ob9j.jpg

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http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psb9ogvsns.jpg

woody80z28 10-20-2015 08:50 PM

Yes, I'm a dumbass. Just wanted to throw that out there first...

So, I caught the car on fire! And didn't even know it. I was almost finished welding the holes in the inner fender a couple nights ago right when the wife got home from work. So I finished the last couple, took off my helmet & gloves, turned off the welder & gas, shut off the radio and went inside to have dinner.

Came out a couple hours later to a garage full of smoke. One of the last welds must have slowly started the towel on fire. It burned the whole thing. Luckily there wasnt anything flammable but the towel in the immediate area. And it looks as though the only real casualties are the control arm bushings, ball joint boot and a caliper slider boot. Could have been a lot worse.

So, a few parts, some refinish work, and a welding blanket later I'll be all set. And BTW, oven cleaner works awesome for fire damage cleanup!

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pswlqzhkt1.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pstnvvaxk8.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psszge8f8s.jpg
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http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psz6fkums5.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psi4dtoxqs.jpg

Used the fire as an excuse to buy tall upper ball joints. And got new pivots from SPC to get it all back together during my second sheet metal mockup. Those new door skins have moved everything around... I'm waiting for a body guy buddy to come over and give a little guidance. I'm still not happy with all the gaps yet.

Picked up some button head bolts for the inner fenders to give just a little bit more tire clearance just in case. Every little bit helps right? And I dont think I've ever posted pics of the ugly fab work for the inner fenders for the extra tuckage. So here they are.

Also figured out my mounting for the Aerocatch pins. By moving the fender brace under the header panel now it clears the hood and the Aerocatch assembly, and gives me a solid place to weld on a tab for the pin and adjust height.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psbyeu2imb.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pspxcjpmii.jpg
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Sieg 10-20-2015 11:15 PM

:bitchslap: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-ft-x-...t-67833-1.html

WSSix 10-21-2015 05:39 AM

Yeah, your car is like a cousin to mine. You're way ahead of me on body mods but you're doing the same stuff I want to with mine. Aerocatch latches, modifying the inner fender for clearance, and switching to pan head bolts. At least I now know it all works. Thanks! :D

Glad to see the good progress, Woody.

woody80z28 10-06-2016 08:18 PM

Guess it's time to update this thread again...even though it will be depressing how little I've had time to do! haha

Quote:

Originally Posted by woody80z28, post: 3459705, member: 12782
Wow, haven't updated in while. Guess that's ok...haven't gotten much done. Working a ton of OT, but that helps the build fund.

Got the pins done. Actually used the burned up pivots from the SPC arm! haha
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskdmdk33k.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps9hpfkwxy.jpg

Thought briefly about just running with the craptastic panel fitment from the Goodmark door skins...and then thought better of it. Welding the gap in the rear gave me a little warpage, and I found a different technique online. With this technique you use 1/8" solid round stock. A lot less welding. Got it looking pretty good now. Gonna mud the driver's side before I weld the pass to see if there is anything I can improve on. But I think it's gonna be decent.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psvqjjj7ki.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskimtvsfs.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psgnfv9jfm.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pstvbjbhxv.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psle1gkq4v.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psnpnjgfut.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps3dnjlnmx.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by woody80z28, post: 3464767, member: 12782
I think the door gap saga is now over...pretty happy with the fitment. I highly recommend the 1/8 solid rod method to anyone tasked with this crap. haha

Next issue: fiberglass! Hood and rear spoiler fitment. I am so highly excited... :screwup:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psny2jckz6.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psyr5sncyr.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps8s0bg25k.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pssyoacyns.jpg


woody80z28 10-06-2016 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woody80z28, post: 3467626, member: 12782
Woooooooo fiberglass.

Two studs on the spoiler were gone so I cut some all-thread and glued it in with resin. (Notice the Buick door work bench since my dad stole my saw horses) haha Each end had cracks in them, so I wadded them full of duraglass once I ground them out.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps0bxbvsqr.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps1teewtcs.jpg

To get the spoiler aligned with the end pieces and fitting the deck lid better I had to add a little bit to the bottom side. So I taped the deck lid, laid duraglass on the deck lid and installed the spoiler. As it was starting to kick I ran the spreader down the front and I think it will smooth out really easily.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps2vdn1iu7.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps7qceeetk.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pszdzuy7ju.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps7ckvcrw8.jpg

Then it was just some perfection work for the gaps and the alignment to the ends. I think I have it close enough for regular filler now. I'll see after I sand it.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psmmnwkodb.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps7dpu6iyg.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psidx7r63i.jpg

Hopefully all is well when it's done. Alignment was horrible before, and with the dark blue that's going on the reflection would stick out like a sore thumb I'm sure. I don't think it ever really shined when it was maroon so it didn't look as bad! haha

Quote:

Originally Posted by woody80z28, post: 3467884, member: 12782
Haha. Probably a good call. It does have a hair more gap on one side. probably a slice and reweld would do it. You're an evil influence...haha

Cut the spoiler off, cleaned up the bottom side and got the fitment perfect.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psxilqzcdq.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps1hnk7ngg.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps6jtmkfxt.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pseec7tfvm.jpg

And saw a quote in the new Hot Rod that seems directly applicable...
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pshyvbccb4.jpg

post

woody80z28 10-06-2016 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woody80z28, post: 3493137, member: 12782
Made myself a bondo spreader on the CNC at work. Hopefully it helps me get the 3 pieces of the spoiler matching perfect. Should be a lot easier than what I have been doing...
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psim7d6tfs.jpg

Hood openings need work too. I'm trying to finish up the spoiler before moving on to the next issue, but I may be able to save some time by ordering a new nose. I'm still not excited about using the one I have. There are some waves in it, and has tiny little cracks when you sand it all the way down to the urethane. Wondering if a different nose will fit at the hood differently. The nose I'm looking at is the Stinger fiberglass one (same place that made my hood).
https://www.americansportscar.com/pr...981-front-flex
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psidiahf5n.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psjhh8tict.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by woody80z28, post: 3494833, member: 12782
So I bought the Stinger nose. My dad was headed to Mopar Carlisle to sell parts and Stinger was going to be there as a vendor...so I called them up and had them send a sweet Chevy nose on the truck with all their Mopar junk! haha Saved me about $200 in boxing/shipping charges.

Quality looks pretty good. I do see a couple minor flaws, but that's the beauty of fiberglass...it's easy to fix!

One little problem I ran in to though. Looks like I need to grind the fiberglass headlight bucket/grille structure down to fit the nose over it. It doesn't just stretch over like the urethane.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pso6ohoyzw.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps9yl6k4w2.jpg
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post

woody80z28 10-06-2016 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woody80z28, post: 3501675, member: 12782
Started installing the nose. I studded the fenders to make it easier to bolt on. Doing the bolts from the front was always a pain because there was no direct shot to get on them, you had to screw around with a knuckle or bend the urethane. Neither are a good solution... So now it goes on and I can start the nuts by hand. Then they are easily tightened with a knuckle on a long extension.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pscumllc9x.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psotosbakz.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps8nj1vm9w.jpg

Fitment at the fender extension kinda sucked, and I saw a post about steel supports that were never on my car. So I fabbed some up out of 1/8". Seems to work pretty well.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps9cau1vw4.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps6lt7rfcp.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskaxazq9r.jpg

Hood gap sucks though. So that's something I need to tackle. Hinges need rebuilding before that though. So I'm drilling and using 1/2" bolts and nuts. Going to tack the nut to the bolt when I get the pivot at the tightness I want.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psiunobzev.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pscz3ara5p.jpg

Test fit the headlight & signal buckets, and grilles. None of them fit great, so they will take a little work too.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps79krixhb.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psgtyqfxms.jpg

But I kinda like that it almost looks like a car!
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pseklnyvr3.jpg

So now I'm working on getting the spoiler perfect...finishing the last fitment project before tackling the newest one...
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskcgmsrub.jpg

post

woody80z28 10-06-2016 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woody80z28, post: 3506326, member: 12782
Happy with the spoiler now. Check.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psgnebj6wb.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psarldk3hu.jpg


Ordered some hardware from boltdepot.com to rebuild my hinges. They have a TON of stuff. And I'm actually going to order some 3/8 brass washers and drill them to 1/2 because these 1/2 ones are huuuuge.

So, I like the way the hinges work now. I drilled all the 3/8 holes in the hinges to 1/2 and used a 1/2" shoulder bolt with a 3/8 stud. Plan is to blast and powdercoat the hinges, assemble, and tack the nut to the bolt when done. Maybe threadlocker would be better though. I haven't decided yet.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psu1jkmddn.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pszrsjovrm.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by woody80z28, post: 3510464, member: 12782
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps7zhq3moa.png

I posted in BS about an illustration I did with some 20" ZL1 wheels. Totally loving the concave face and the blacked out look. Looks pissed off. NASTY! But I was a little worried that 20" wheels would just look too big.

So I had a friend come over and I tried the stock SS 20s...

Nope!

Too big.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psbgurve7l.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psbvl8vh1e.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psdlqlbovr.jpg
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post

WSSix 10-07-2016 07:56 AM

Doing great work, Woody. I'm dreading the body work once I get there. That's part of why I'm ignoring it for now. I will have to go through everything you are, too. I won't be changing to a fiberglass nose though. I'd be too afraid of damaging it on something minor.

I don't think anything larger than an 18 fits these cars well. You have to go so thin on the sidewall to keep the car low. Plus you have to deal with flattened arches of the wheel wells. Birds can get away with a 19 and maybe a 20 but I still think 18s are the best balance of rim and tire.

Keep it up!

woody80z28 04-30-2017 09:08 PM

Wow...I am way behind in updating this thread.

Quote:

I saw Fesler just released a flush mount glass kit for 70-74 with a the rear in the works for 75-81 and it got me all excited! Then I looked at the price and decided to see what other options there are... haha

This is a roll of T-trim that I used on my Beretta. It's a Dodge Dakota spec that is used as a universal. I'm going to check to see if there is something similar available that is slightly wider than 1/2". To set it up like the first picture I will have to weld additional metal to 3 of the 4 dimensions. To set it up like the second pic I may be able to use a 3/4 or something and have it look pretty good.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps7zm6eayy.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pssgexrryh.jpg

I'm pretty damn sick of body work though. And I do need to spray my subframe and inner fenders, and probably reshoot the firewall. So I dropped the engine in to do some final mockup.

Going to gusset the rear LCA mounting ears (since stock LCA brace doesn't fit with headers) and modify the G-braces to fit under the cowl instead of on top. Also hoping there is enough floor clearance to cut off the 3-bolt flanges and replace them with V-band clamps (did my whole truck exhaust with V-bands and love it).

I wanted to get all the EFI wiring harness stuff finalized, too. I'm adjusting wire length for a cleaner fit and I'll need at least one more hole in the firewall and a different disconnect for the distributor. Mounted my ignition coil on stand offs and really like the look. Also mounted the type-2 PS pump with my bracket and pulley from Speedway. Seems like pretty good stuff.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psypns77qe.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psbdubugrm.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps7yetffjy.jpg

Cardboard header gaskets to keep from chewing up the alum heads. haha
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psywgzdbts.jpg

First time with this engine in the car and the pan is pretty damn low.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psav28cz0z.jpg

This pic exaggerates it, but the pan looks to be about the lowest point for ground clearance. So that's not good. I did some research and found out it's a Summit pan with a 8.25 depth. So I'll be fine to cut it up and raise the sump an inch. Probably take me from 7qts to 5.5 or 6. I'll figure out the math.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psa4tn3nun.jpg

Fabbed a cowl brace for the g-braces. I moved the g-braces under the cowl to gain some hood clearance, new hood is tight. I used some 3/4 x 1-1/2" bar stock as nuts and welded them to a thick wall gas pipe. Button head bolts keep hood clearance maxed out. I already have 1/8" plate welded under the cowl for some extra strength. Got some big washers I'm going to weld to the fenders too- there needs to be spacers for the g-brace mounts anyway.

I also drilled holes in the tunnel for wiring. Going to weld the stock wiring hole in the firewall shut. Decided after mocking stuff up that one wiring hole looks out of place with everything else being so clean.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psmx3zi8kp.jpg
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woody80z28 04-30-2017 09:09 PM

Picked up some more parts on Black Friday sales...mainly DSE lower arms, QuickTime scatter shield and a Wilwood 7/8 master.

Fabbed a bracket and ran the throttle cable. First bracket didn't line up well so I offset it. Angle iron looks good when you clean it up! Going in the powdercoat pile.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psfvxcnxeq.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pstou6kup3.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psnfuk6dn2.jpg

The SFI bell is a big heavy SOB. I put it in to make sure my planned wiring routes would still be ok. Looks like it will.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc2zuyrgj.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pss6pmpyp0.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psckgho8hj.jpg

DSE arms are like jewelry. Be a shame when they're all full of road grime. haha (Stockers are for sale in the swap meet section, with delrin bushings). What I really wanted was the added caster.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pswcf84kp5.jpghttp://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psgyu1mprf.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps5lqvg7kn.jpg

Plumbing in a puke tank to eliminate the PCV. At 11:1, I don't need oil reducing the effective octane of the fuel. Area was tight, so I'm doing a pair of 90s looping forward to clear the MSD coil and the g-brace.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psard8qf7z.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pse1ka8lpd.jpg

Assembled the PTFE lines for the power steering with the S10 TypeII pump.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psb35mcgy1.jpg

Also think I've decided on a fuel line solution. Regulator up front for accessibility with crossovers front and rear to minimize any pressure spikes from injectors firing (especially in MPFI batch mode). The regulator being so close to the rails should also help with that. Routing the lines far away from the headers should minimize any problems with heat soak. Have a couple fittings in the mail to finalize the plumbing, but this should be it:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psni5wxmbc.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psads7nt0b.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psa3abc8f0.jpg

woody80z28 04-30-2017 09:10 PM

Working on a project I started because of the aero thread on p-t. I've always wanted to smooth the fender vents, but they're pot metal. So I'm going to cut up the stock vent to use as a trim ring and fab the actual scoop out of the sheet metal. It's also going to quadruple the area for underhood air to exit (theoretically reducing drag and aiding in cooling).
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pss7cnkr2v.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psv47fyqsm.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps12rzg70l.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps3afqeupx.jpg




Made a date with my body guy to get this damn thing painted! And he's running behind schedule...so I'll post these for now. But it's in queue. I have the body work done to basically the best of my ability and he's going to finish everything up perfect and spray it. (I did my Beretta last year and a couple spots that I thought were perfect showed slight flaws a few months after fresh paint).

I really like how the fender vents came out. It was difficult to get a good decreasing radius bend that was smooth. My old landlord has an English wheel that I used and that's pretty tedious, but it worked ok.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psh7bvbluf.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psylp8b1b3.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psefflz5q2.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps4cgpmv3r.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psdt2uiu7l.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pszzv6uwbq.jpg

woody80z28 04-30-2017 09:11 PM

I also got my rear bumper project done. It's something I've thought about for quite a while. It has always driven me nuts that the bottom of the rear bumper isn't on the same plane as the bottom of the quarter. I photoshopped it to match and it looks so much better. So I cut up the stock one to try it out and fit a basic rear diffuser idea to match the aero package I'm going to do in a year or two.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psqm5owikv.jpg

I was happy with the results, so I bought a Glasstek rear bumper and cut it up. I used the car as my jig and some ABS sheet as a backer to slop some kitty hair on it and make it one piece again. I also made some studded steel plates to eliminate the metal "straps" for the urethane bumper ends and duraglassed them in. Then I took it off the car, removed the self tappers and peeled the ABS off and hit it with fiberglass cloth and resin to give it some strength.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psz0cru5cm.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pshejp5phv.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pssakiqszx.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psueguk2xj.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psqlnab3sd.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pstglp0zf6.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psbrqdjde7.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psvuxkzceo.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psui2motci.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pszorkfg0z.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psm2el0qj3.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psxcizvzya.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pstv4rtcsc.jpg

I really like the "fatass" look. I think it helps with the really short and wide back end. I also like how the metal strap delete cleans it up. I got a 12" LED bar that will serve as the reverse lights right above the license plate and it can tint the whole taillight lens smoke red which will work with my "amber delete" tail idea. I also welded a much better mount for my kill switch than the one I cobbed when I was 20. haha. I'm going to make a license plate holder/trim piece out of ABS that looks much better when the plate is off and the switch is exposed.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskx9mwb0t.jpg

JohnJ@RideTech 05-01-2017 05:31 AM

Good to see some love for the later 2nd gen cars.

Goosesdad 05-01-2017 09:49 AM

Fantastic work!!!

WSSix 05-01-2017 06:35 PM

Looking good, Woody! I hope it doesn't spend forever in paint jail once it goes in.

glassman 05-02-2017 02:44 PM

Yeah, all the work looks great. I'd hate to see it caught up in paint jail too. Love watching this build, keep up the great work!! Looking forward to more progress pics...

GregWeld 05-02-2017 05:21 PM

Build a STOP on the bracket to stop it from moving. A leg down on the back side of the intake manifold (on the bracket) for that throttle linkage.... It will NOT stay in place otherwise - I don't care how much you tighten it down. Not to mention over torquing the TB on the manifold... The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is very sensitive to the throttle position.

Won't take much to make a stop on the bottom side of that bracket - which was very clever BTW!

woody80z28 05-03-2017 10:20 PM

I had thought about that actually and then decided I didn't need it. I put a star washer between the throttle body hole and bracket to keep it from rotating. Seems great, but there will be a lot of cycles on that connection. With a heavy foot. So it is probably good advice, a little stop would leave no doubt...and it's easier to do now than redo after powder coat later. I'll do it once the engine is back out and easier to get to.

waynieZ 05-04-2017 08:40 PM

Your doing a nice job , I like the fender vents.

woody80z28 05-11-2025 08:25 PM

I see it's been a long time here since I've updated, but I've also been neglecting it pretty badly...so bad that all the picture links died! But I have resumed work on it, and it's moving forward again.

I got most of my plywood front & side splitters done, and my rear diffuser is glued & screwed...so the only thing left for them is some resin and filler work.
https://i.imgur.com/u6Fsdbv.jpeg

I made a rear hitch that looks like it'll work really well.
https://i.imgur.com/ISVtVjX.jpeg

And I designed some caliper brackets to make rear C6 Z06 rotors and base calipers work with S10 Blazer backing plates on any old 8.2/8.5 or even 7.5 rear axle. You can even switch back & forth with 11.6 Blazer stuff to use 15" drag wheels.
https://i.imgur.com/pIUYWAC.jpg

My updates are basically in video form now on my youtube channel Gearhead Dezign. Check it out if you're interested.

WSSix 05-13-2025 06:28 PM

Glad to know you're still working on the car!

woody80z28 05-18-2025 05:33 PM

Yeah I get too ambitious. Too many projects (6) and not enough time (dad now). Still writing checks my free time can't cash! 13 years into this Camaro now...about 5 wasted waiting for a painter who ultimately declined...but that's still 8 years to get probably 3 years worth of work done.

If you go on youtube you can explore:
96 Beretta "T56" FWD to RWD LS project
2dr Blazer "Z69"s: one Gambler 500 beater, one 5spd swap winter daily and one 5.3/SM465/SAS on 37s
01 Silverado "ZF6" 8.1 6spd manual
06 Suburban needing NV4500 swap

There's always something that needs to be done on...nearly all of them.


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