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Made a blockoff plate for the wiper motor hole in the cowl. Once I cut that part of the firewall out it would have been a waterfall inside the car! Also got some standoffs on Amazon to mount the EFI HEI coil on the firewall...I think it will work out nice.
Cut off the wings on the rad support, widened the opening and then bolted them back on. Should keep the air right where it needs to be...and if I have to take them off at some point it's just 4 bolts. I also finalized the radiator mounts and drilled some drainage holes so it doesn't fill with water. Picked up an AMD deck filler too and WOW it fits like ****! I'll be better off fixing my OEM one and sending that POS back. http://www.motortopia.com/files/141/...a/IMG_0206.jpg http://www.motortopia.com/files/141/...b/IMG_0213.jpg http://www.motortopia.com/files/141/...6/IMG_0208.jpg http://www.motortopia.com/files/141/...3/IMG_0210.jpg http://www.motortopia.com/files/141/...1/IMG_0215.jpg http://www.motortopia.com/files/141/...3/IMG_0211.jpg |
And I've been working on a brake retrofit. I did the 13.4" C6 Z51 brakes up front and it made the 11.6" Blazer rotors out back look tiny. So I wanted to engineer an interchangeable rotor combo for drag & street wheels. C6 Z51 rear rotors are 13.0" and I found that C6 Z06 rear rotors are 13.4"-and a visual match to the Z51 fronts. So the graphic designer in me has to make it happen.
The ebrake shoe is the same between Blazer and Vette. Check. Center bore is the same. Check. Offset is way off - but a spacer behind the backing plate will fix that. Rotor thickness is about 0.200" different...but shaving pads will fix that. There is enough difference in radius between the 11.6 and 13.4 to make an extension bracket to hang the Blazer caliper further out on the big rotor. So I made some templates out of plastic at work and got it all figured out. I just need to fab the final ones out of steel. By using the Blazer caliper and pads (which are bigger) I can swap between street & drag brakes without bleeding the calipers or popping out the axles. Should be a 10min job per side. I like the sound of that. Oh - and I found GG friction rated Blazer pads at Advance so I'm all good to go there. Maybe this car will even stop after the rebirth! http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psgnsh5ixg.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psvujddbzo.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psk2x8ob9j.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psr2l0ppuu.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psohr9vkze.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psb9ogvsns.jpg |
Yes, I'm a dumbass. Just wanted to throw that out there first...
So, I caught the car on fire! And didn't even know it. I was almost finished welding the holes in the inner fender a couple nights ago right when the wife got home from work. So I finished the last couple, took off my helmet & gloves, turned off the welder & gas, shut off the radio and went inside to have dinner. Came out a couple hours later to a garage full of smoke. One of the last welds must have slowly started the towel on fire. It burned the whole thing. Luckily there wasnt anything flammable but the towel in the immediate area. And it looks as though the only real casualties are the control arm bushings, ball joint boot and a caliper slider boot. Could have been a lot worse. So, a few parts, some refinish work, and a welding blanket later I'll be all set. And BTW, oven cleaner works awesome for fire damage cleanup! http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pswlqzhkt1.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pstnvvaxk8.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psszge8f8s.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psh128wftw.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psz6fkums5.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psi4dtoxqs.jpg Used the fire as an excuse to buy tall upper ball joints. And got new pivots from SPC to get it all back together during my second sheet metal mockup. Those new door skins have moved everything around... I'm waiting for a body guy buddy to come over and give a little guidance. I'm still not happy with all the gaps yet. Picked up some button head bolts for the inner fenders to give just a little bit more tire clearance just in case. Every little bit helps right? And I dont think I've ever posted pics of the ugly fab work for the inner fenders for the extra tuckage. So here they are. Also figured out my mounting for the Aerocatch pins. By moving the fender brace under the header panel now it clears the hood and the Aerocatch assembly, and gives me a solid place to weld on a tab for the pin and adjust height. http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psbyeu2imb.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pspxcjpmii.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pslaff9gcb.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pszqb7gbim.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psaf6eyvzc.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pstz576rmm.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psavw0k23e.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pslepnzfpo.jpg |
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Yeah, your car is like a cousin to mine. You're way ahead of me on body mods but you're doing the same stuff I want to with mine. Aerocatch latches, modifying the inner fender for clearance, and switching to pan head bolts. At least I now know it all works. Thanks! :D
Glad to see the good progress, Woody. |
Guess it's time to update this thread again...even though it will be depressing how little I've had time to do! haha
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Doing great work, Woody. I'm dreading the body work once I get there. That's part of why I'm ignoring it for now. I will have to go through everything you are, too. I won't be changing to a fiberglass nose though. I'd be too afraid of damaging it on something minor.
I don't think anything larger than an 18 fits these cars well. You have to go so thin on the sidewall to keep the car low. Plus you have to deal with flattened arches of the wheel wells. Birds can get away with a 19 and maybe a 20 but I still think 18s are the best balance of rim and tire. Keep it up! |
Wow...I am way behind in updating this thread.
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Picked up some more parts on Black Friday sales...mainly DSE lower arms, QuickTime scatter shield and a Wilwood 7/8 master.
Fabbed a bracket and ran the throttle cable. First bracket didn't line up well so I offset it. Angle iron looks good when you clean it up! Going in the powdercoat pile. http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psfvxcnxeq.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pstou6kup3.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psnfuk6dn2.jpg The SFI bell is a big heavy SOB. I put it in to make sure my planned wiring routes would still be ok. Looks like it will. http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc2zuyrgj.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pss6pmpyp0.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psckgho8hj.jpg DSE arms are like jewelry. Be a shame when they're all full of road grime. haha (Stockers are for sale in the swap meet section, with delrin bushings). What I really wanted was the added caster. http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pswcf84kp5.jpghttp://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psgyu1mprf.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps5lqvg7kn.jpg Plumbing in a puke tank to eliminate the PCV. At 11:1, I don't need oil reducing the effective octane of the fuel. Area was tight, so I'm doing a pair of 90s looping forward to clear the MSD coil and the g-brace. http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psard8qf7z.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pse1ka8lpd.jpg Assembled the PTFE lines for the power steering with the S10 TypeII pump. http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psb35mcgy1.jpg Also think I've decided on a fuel line solution. Regulator up front for accessibility with crossovers front and rear to minimize any pressure spikes from injectors firing (especially in MPFI batch mode). The regulator being so close to the rails should also help with that. Routing the lines far away from the headers should minimize any problems with heat soak. Have a couple fittings in the mail to finalize the plumbing, but this should be it: http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psni5wxmbc.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psads7nt0b.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psa3abc8f0.jpg |
Working on a project I started because of the aero thread on p-t. I've always wanted to smooth the fender vents, but they're pot metal. So I'm going to cut up the stock vent to use as a trim ring and fab the actual scoop out of the sheet metal. It's also going to quadruple the area for underhood air to exit (theoretically reducing drag and aiding in cooling).
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pss7cnkr2v.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psv47fyqsm.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps12rzg70l.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps3afqeupx.jpg Made a date with my body guy to get this damn thing painted! And he's running behind schedule...so I'll post these for now. But it's in queue. I have the body work done to basically the best of my ability and he's going to finish everything up perfect and spray it. (I did my Beretta last year and a couple spots that I thought were perfect showed slight flaws a few months after fresh paint). I really like how the fender vents came out. It was difficult to get a good decreasing radius bend that was smooth. My old landlord has an English wheel that I used and that's pretty tedious, but it worked ok. http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psh7bvbluf.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psylp8b1b3.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psefflz5q2.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps4cgpmv3r.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psdt2uiu7l.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pszzv6uwbq.jpg |
I also got my rear bumper project done. It's something I've thought about for quite a while. It has always driven me nuts that the bottom of the rear bumper isn't on the same plane as the bottom of the quarter. I photoshopped it to match and it looks so much better. So I cut up the stock one to try it out and fit a basic rear diffuser idea to match the aero package I'm going to do in a year or two.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psqm5owikv.jpg I was happy with the results, so I bought a Glasstek rear bumper and cut it up. I used the car as my jig and some ABS sheet as a backer to slop some kitty hair on it and make it one piece again. I also made some studded steel plates to eliminate the metal "straps" for the urethane bumper ends and duraglassed them in. Then I took it off the car, removed the self tappers and peeled the ABS off and hit it with fiberglass cloth and resin to give it some strength. http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psz0cru5cm.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pshejp5phv.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pssakiqszx.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psueguk2xj.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psqlnab3sd.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pstglp0zf6.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psbrqdjde7.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psvuxkzceo.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psui2motci.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pszorkfg0z.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psm2el0qj3.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psxcizvzya.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pstv4rtcsc.jpg I really like the "fatass" look. I think it helps with the really short and wide back end. I also like how the metal strap delete cleans it up. I got a 12" LED bar that will serve as the reverse lights right above the license plate and it can tint the whole taillight lens smoke red which will work with my "amber delete" tail idea. I also welded a much better mount for my kill switch than the one I cobbed when I was 20. haha. I'm going to make a license plate holder/trim piece out of ABS that looks much better when the plate is off and the switch is exposed. http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskx9mwb0t.jpg |
Good to see some love for the later 2nd gen cars.
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Fantastic work!!!
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Looking good, Woody! I hope it doesn't spend forever in paint jail once it goes in.
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Yeah, all the work looks great. I'd hate to see it caught up in paint jail too. Love watching this build, keep up the great work!! Looking forward to more progress pics...
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Build a STOP on the bracket to stop it from moving. A leg down on the back side of the intake manifold (on the bracket) for that throttle linkage.... It will NOT stay in place otherwise - I don't care how much you tighten it down. Not to mention over torquing the TB on the manifold... The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is very sensitive to the throttle position.
Won't take much to make a stop on the bottom side of that bracket - which was very clever BTW! |
I had thought about that actually and then decided I didn't need it. I put a star washer between the throttle body hole and bracket to keep it from rotating. Seems great, but there will be a lot of cycles on that connection. With a heavy foot. So it is probably good advice, a little stop would leave no doubt...and it's easier to do now than redo after powder coat later. I'll do it once the engine is back out and easier to get to.
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Your doing a nice job , I like the fender vents.
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I see it's been a long time here since I've updated, but I've also been neglecting it pretty badly...so bad that all the picture links died! But I have resumed work on it, and it's moving forward again.
I got most of my plywood front & side splitters done, and my rear diffuser is glued & screwed...so the only thing left for them is some resin and filler work. https://i.imgur.com/u6Fsdbv.jpeg I made a rear hitch that looks like it'll work really well. https://i.imgur.com/ISVtVjX.jpeg And I designed some caliper brackets to make rear C6 Z06 rotors and base calipers work with S10 Blazer backing plates on any old 8.2/8.5 or even 7.5 rear axle. You can even switch back & forth with 11.6 Blazer stuff to use 15" drag wheels. https://i.imgur.com/pIUYWAC.jpg My updates are basically in video form now on my youtube channel Gearhead Dezign. Check it out if you're interested. |
Glad to know you're still working on the car!
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Yeah I get too ambitious. Too many projects (6) and not enough time (dad now). Still writing checks my free time can't cash! 13 years into this Camaro now...about 5 wasted waiting for a painter who ultimately declined...but that's still 8 years to get probably 3 years worth of work done.
If you go on youtube you can explore: 96 Beretta "T56" FWD to RWD LS project 2dr Blazer "Z69"s: one Gambler 500 beater, one 5spd swap winter daily and one 5.3/SM465/SAS on 37s 01 Silverado "ZF6" 8.1 6spd manual 06 Suburban needing NV4500 swap There's always something that needs to be done on...nearly all of them. |
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