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Update: on 12/1/2019 after figuring fuel supply problem (polarity was reversed ) it came to life - its running! Now there's motivation to keep on this to its completion. Its only been 11 years! Life gets in the way- I moved I built a 30x30 shop and other cars. My thought at first would be 2-3 years and this was going to be fun on Power Tour but Its been so long and I have tired of all the traffic and same old routes thats goes with HRPT I will try Cruise the coast and other events - does anyone know if they have anything to cruise the PCH? that would be on my list!
this pic is from 3-4 years ago sorry didnt take any current pics but will again soon https://i.imgur.com/VLlK5vx.jpg |
Congrats on getting it to run! That's a huge step forward.
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Spent Saturday working on brakes and clutch, I tried a different approach on clutch bleeding- I disconnected line at reservoir and hooked up my Mityvac hand pump and out vacuum and slowly bubbles started coming through the line actually quite a few when they stopped I reconnected line to reservoir and topped it off well pedal is low but then feels fine, Its adjustable so I will play with adjustment when I can get doors fully open. Then the brakes :catfight: I tried initially with a vacuum bleeder and couldn't get anything out of rear so I went back to master and cracked lines starting at the top till I got fluid coming out and then chased fluid at several points till we got it to rear brakes and success! we have a brake pedal with one little issue the adjustable prop valve i mounted on drvrs frame rail where OE was mounted. Its leaking out of the 1/8" NPT fittings on the valve where the adapter fittings tighten in so I will have to deal with that next chance I get the Mfr suggested Teflon tape on the fittings
https://i.imgur.com/JO6urPIh.jpg the fittings had some red sealer like above but it didn't work anyone else ever had to deal with this? I've never seen anything in a brake system that had pipe threads on it |
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:fire: Hey just want to make sure I am on the list now? :goofy: |
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Not sure there's any truth to it, but I always use the thread sealant Don posted just to be on the safe side. :headscratch: |
Well I had a few minutes to attempt a seal to these lines last night - when removed there was nothing left of sealant that was on the fittings - Hmm where dit go? :EmoteClueless:so I cleaned and carefully (careful that no tape was overhanging the end past threads) wrapped with the Teflon and re-installed will need my sons foot pedal pressure to see if it only helped or if it fixed it. I did search Jegs and out of the 4 2 port valves they offered all have 1/8" NPT ports - I cant imagine ever having NPT fittings in a brake system?? :sieg: IMO the block s/b cast iron with flare fittings like the rest of the system has
I'm kinda beefed that something so basic isn't that well designed :flag2: https://i.imgur.com/ZKvYUj5m.jpg https://i.imgur.com/dWT8nCZm.jpg |
well looking this morning I'm gonna say Teflon tape is a no-go! Thats a Negatory Maverick that pattern is full and this is with Zero pressure applied - see the drop? :wow: Ugh
https://i.imgur.com/LGXxmtum.jpg |
I have always used teflon paste on NPT joints. No tape to break free in the lines, and seals much better.
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I'd contact classic tube and ask them. https://classictube.com/
I think something's not fully right about this. You may have to crank on the adapters harder than normal to get a seal. Which also doesn't seem correct. Good luck. I know this can be annoying. |
NPT fittings really have no place in brake systems imho. I just went through this on some through frame fittings used by a frame manufacturer on a preplumbed frame. Every one leaked. The Permatex stopped the leaks.
Don |
well Yesterday I removed the valve and fittings cleaned them up (found where red sealant went to :( in the ports of the valve ) and used the liquid sealant as recommended says 72 hours to cure so wednesday I'll hookup I'm afraid all the fluid is left the building so it may be a while till I get help with bleeding. I had the RF coil over started leaking zero miles maybe 250' rolling- probably due to age and since I am not orig owner D/Speed wont warranty so after $110 I got it back and reinstalled it -kind of a pain had to remove sway bar arm and link to gain space to R&R it, glad that's done! Oh and I noticed the p/s hose I fabricated is seeping already :smiley_smack:
https://i.imgur.com/XjESUWyl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ZAQxoSvl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/wJ0ABrUl.jpg |
Happy New Years all, OK I have no more brake leak the liquid stuff worked!! took 2 attempts first one I had brass fitting strip (happy was brass fitting not stainless flare fitting) so second time was charm! bled lines now have good pedal, and no leaks at Prop valve WOO HOO!! also hooked up oil pressure gauge, ran engine again and have good oil pressure. I ran it little longer this time but still need to add coolant so I guess next on my list would be to put some more bolts in fenders and see if can be driven back and forth in the driveway this is first time since I got this car around 2003-4 that its been running. :excited:
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not a whole lot to update but one thing I have noticed is firewall flex just pushing the clutch down I can see the booster and all move a noticeable amount add pushing the brake pedal down it will probably move even more IDK maybe its me but it seems like more movement that one would want - any thoughts?
FWIW it has solid sub frame bushings so no movement there |
While waiting for the body shop to have an opening, we found a little more needed work getting ready for power windows- a boot for wiring from pillar to door. Years ago I bought the repo crap, I figure how bad can they screw up a rubber boot? well one has already split so went with option 2: factory GM boots from a off a 2000 trans am I parted out years a ago.
First off the size hole needed are irregular at 2.75" on pillar and 1.9" hole for the door best time is with doors off, well missed that boat 10 years ago so you either work around like we did on drivers side or remove the door like we did on passengers side. For the size hole to mark, I dug through my stash of carrier shims and found both sizes we needed. We could of bought a hole saw for about $50 but elected to buy an air saw from Harbor Freight ended being about same money but IMO its a more universal tool - I'm happy with the results, what do Y'all think? https://i.imgur.com/4L26cGql.jpg https://i.imgur.com/aeWgNEKl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ikYthsPl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/DsABUaJl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/KeXYSUGl.jpg |
Nice work on that boot. It's those little items that really take the time but also make the difference.
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So, looooooooong time since last update:
thanks to all the body men that can't seem to run a business. they can kill a hobby quick finally got some work done to this same car that I started this thread on years ago since last update its now running (not driving yet) I will update when we get some color on it |
An all too common tale. Good luck with the project!
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I'm sorry you're running into issues with the body work and finding competent people. Glad that progress is being made though. Good luck!
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getting little further
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The white and blue on these cars is such a great combination.
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slowly but surely making progress, their telling me the doors are up next cant wait to see this back in one piece - a complete car again!
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Awesome!!
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Holy cow does it look fantastic.
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Thanks Syborg and Goosesdad this has taken way too long
and still getting more updates Brick by Brick, piece by piece |
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Coming along
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I am in love with this color combo
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still need to install rest of front end- valance, bumper, headlight mounts, batwing, I'm being told it should be back in my shop next weekend guess I need to make room for it lol
long way to go still: glass, interior, tires/wheels |
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its home now, time to get organized and all of the rest of the parts needed to assemble. its nice to see as a complete car
Note: does anyone have an interior assembly list? - you know as in order I've shot myself in foot before complaints: 1) they let battery discharge/Die over last 1.5 years - its dead as a doornail, was fine when he picked up. Fine I can deal with this 2) It runs like crap says it loaded up cyl running it w/o MAF/air intake hooked up - hope it just needs plugs 3) I expressed my concerns of wanting nice body gaps from the git go and most is OK - except the trunk Ugh front end isn't assembled as it was supposed to be body guy says hell comeback when I get new headlight cushions to assemble and I just hope its gonna fit nice |
Your thread has motivated me to finish mine up. Great job.
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I just ordered around 2k in parts for this mostly exterior trim. on the spark plugs- Jeeze I had new NGKs in this, whgen got it back had 4 ND plugs 4 Delco's and 2 were gasketed plugs - WTH? body man didn't say a word about that he swapped them, it does need a tune done and I'm looking for local or mobile tuner |
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and honestly I feel the same about mine. |
Beautiful!
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little progress I bought all new glass-Grey tinted and headliner needed to go first so we did it,(I know its not completed yet rear tack strips are backordered for years) then had glazer over for frt and rear glass install, funny I cant remember if this has ever had them in, under my ownership. Thats the problem with 20 year projects!
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Progress is Progress and don't worry all of my friends this I have fear of finishing my car.
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I've always loved this paint scheme in the 69 Trans Am.
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