I've got a few small things to finish up as far as metal work and welding and then I can put the subframe back under it and align everything in preparation for the DSE subframe connectors.

Minimal progress since the last update, but it's progress. Been kinda bummed since the fiasco with my Fikse wheels. Since the last update I've accomplished the following.

* Trimmed the quarter lips for the 335's.
* Removed the body filler from the previous body work (that I paid to have done) only to find that the driver side quarter to roof skin seam had not been welded solid. So, I welded it solid. I also found that the roof skin was not welded to the windshield pillars, so I had to fix that too!
* Welded up the seams where the deck lid filler panel and quarter panels meet.
* Welded in the trunk latch bracket in the trunk.
* Installed the weatherstrip gutters.
* Had some major pitting in the passenger side a-pillar, so I had to cut out a section and weld a patch piece in.
* Stripped the shell down to bare metal and sealed it with DP primer.

Here's a few photos.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0233_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0234_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0232_large.jpg

Looking good! It is getting there, keep at it.:cheers:

So you paid for some work to be done and had to strip it all back off? And the guy didn't even weld the roof to the A pillars and the quarter seams were bad too? Major bummer! But now you are past that and getting things done, and done right. Nice work!!

Have you come up with a different wheel yet?

That's right. I dropped my car off to a body man in July of 2007 to have the driver side quarter and outer wheel house, roof skin, deck lid filler panel and DSE tubs installed. He quoted me 3-4 weeks for the work, I gave him 8 weeks in the back of my mind. In January 2008, I had enough and went to pick the car up partially done. He had completed everything except the tubs and it took 6 months.

The funny thing was two weeks ago, when I stripped the primer from his work, I found that the EDP primer had not been removed from the new panels he installed. I specifically asked that it be done too. Once I saw that, I decided to strip the body filler off too. That's when I found the seams not welded. Oh well, it's just money down the drain, I guess. I have learned a new skill since then, though...BODY WORK.

Not sure on wheels yet. I want a step lip design and an 11.5" rear wheel, so that limits my choices to a select few since I have to go with a 3 piece wheel to achieve the 11.5" width for the rear. Maybe Forgeline or HRE. I'm gonna concentrate on the body work, undercarriage, and front suspension, then decide on wheels.

Looks great Chris!! That's one nice rebuilt shell!! Going to ba a great foundation to build off....that's for sure!! Big props for doing it all on your own and taking the needed time to do it correctly!! :thumbsup:

Chris --

That is sad.... really.

You wanna know why I built my "shed"? Because I got sick and tired of taking my cars to people - paying big bills - and then bringing them home and doing the work over... So here was the thought process. IF I'm going to pay big bills for work to be done over... then I'll TRY to do the work myself.. THEN if I can't get it done - I will hire someone to come to MY shed to help out... it has to cost less - since I should be able to do a lot of it "right". I'm having fun learning and building skills... and so far I've only had professional help a couple of times, and received one job offer from the pro that liked my work! :lol:

After doing or re-doing 3 or 4 cars since I built it... and helping out many buddies with their stuff... I've come to the conclusion that A: it isn't hard B: the only reason things don't get done in a reasonable amount of time is because nobody worked on it.

Your car is looking great! You should be proud...:thumbsup:

WOW!! Sorry about the fiasco with that so called "body man". That sucks. At least you know it's done right now and like you said, you just learned a little bit more about body work!
GOOD LUCK!!:thumbsup: :cheers:

Looks great! Wish mine that done to that extent!:thumbsup:

That's what I am talking about, nice work man. I just bought a welder a month ago and am learning to weld at 28 years old. I can't afford to take it to a shop so I am going to learn and do it myself.

What kind of experience did you have when you started?

Ryan

Not sure on wheels yet. I want a step lip design and an 11.5" rear wheel, so that limits my choices to a select few since I have to go with a 3 piece wheel to achieve the 11.5" width for the rear. Maybe Forgeline or HRE. I'm gonna concentrate on the body work, undercarriage, and front suspension, then decide on wheels.[/QUOTE]

Check out the forgeline SP3 or S03. or the Comp 93/ 97 from HRE. These are wheels I have been considering for my car since I can no longer get the Profile 5S from Fikse.
Keep up the good work your car is turning out killer:thumbsup:

You have come a long way with this one---it is really coming along nicely---I really respect that you are doing this all on your own without having done much of it before---great job man. I am looking forward to your future posts of even more progress. Sounds like you've got a great wife also---keep moving forward with it!

Doug

Chris , the car is looking great ! It sucks to to get the screws put to you on work that you pay to have done , I call it a bought lesson ! Just think of all the newly acquired skills that you'll have when you finish this car ! Good luck and keep the progress pics up .

I had ZERO experience with body work or metal replacement. Thanks to the forums, I was able to follow other peoples builds and ask millions of questions. It's funny thinking back on it. It took me 2 weeks before I got up enough nerve to make my first weld on the trunk pan. This, obviously, was due to nerves and lack of experience.

I just hope it holds together good and doesn't fall apart! :lol:

Thanks. Yeah, my wife is extremely supportive. She's pushing me to hurry up so she can ride in it, but we have a 3 year old son, and I feel guilty when I spend too much time in the shop and not with him. I usually wait for him to go to bed and then slip out to the shop for a couple of hours.

I figure it will be finished by the time he graduates high school! :rofl:

Don't feel bad. I have a 5 year old and I go through the same thing. In the house with him or in the garage without? I usually end up inside with him.
Which makes us both happy.

Unless there is something he can help with like grabbing me tools. Even if they are the wrong ones.:lol:

Awesome man, you are giving me courage hahahaha. My buddy just gave me a welding lesson the other night, now I feel like I can take on the world hahaha.

What is some advice you can give a newcomer?

Just have patience and think your way through it. Always think two or three steps ahead of what you're doing and don't worry about screwing up because you WILL. Remember, a cut off tool, grinder, hammer, dolly, and welding machine can fix anything on the car so don't be scared about screwing something up.

Also, do your homework on the reproduction panels. Some fit better than others. Certain panels (no matter which brand) have certain issues that will need to be addressed. It's better to know these things before you weld them on. Finally, just fit the panels until they can't fit any better and then weld them up. It's really not as bad as it looks. It just takes time and patience...oh and money! Good Luck.

Awesome man, I have been telling my wife I need to get a cut off wheel. My car was actually hit on the left quarter panel and the floor is tweaked. I think my first step is going to be getting my car on a frame machine to make sure it is straight. Then I need to replace the floor, and do some rocker work. I am trying to keep mine drivable. I am pretty sure my left frame rail is going to need some straightening and rust repair as well. Keep the updates coming. I may have to ask you questions from time to time.
Ryan

Just to be sure -- not ONE cut off saw... SEVERAL! You'll use them in various situations - so you need straight - 90* - a body saw is helpful too... and LOTS of blades for it... two or three different grinders help too... so all in all - about a dozen should just about get 'er done!!

Merry Xmas. I buy new ones for my wife every year... She doesn't use them much so she let's my borrow 'em.


:rofl: :rofl:

Thanks for clearing that up Greg! You're absolutely right.

I went to Harbor Freight and bought a 4-1/2" electric grinder, a die grinder, and a 1/4" angle grinder before I started my build. I have about $40 including tax in all three tools. My 1/4" angle grinder started making some pretty nasty sounds yesterday, so I guess it's time to trash it. Not a bad investment for $15...it built most of my car before biting the dust. I really want to see it fly apart before I throw it away! It sounds REAAAALY nasty.

I do suggest a good compressor before starting all this. I had a smaller horizontal 5hp compressor, but it couldn't keep up with the air tools. I ended up buying a 2-stage 5hp 80 gallon compressor from Sears and haven't looked back.

You can never have too big of a compressor!

:>)


I have Snap-On die grinders - and I have everything in between - including Harbor Freight versions... I agree with you - they've gotten so cheap - you buy a couple and toss 'em when they go bad. While I prefer, by far, to buy American - it's hard to justify a Snap-On cut off tool when the junk versions work just as well.

Once you get a good compressor - then all your tools go air... drills - grinders - dimple dies... then you have to convert your engine hoist to air... and your tranny jack... Next thing you know - you're blowing the floor clean instead of using a broom...

:rofl:

I thought I was the only one!

I have a decent size craftsman air comp. My main problem is my garage is only 17x11 so it is a tight squeeze. Thanks for all the tips though.

Not sure how I have missed this build but looking though it you are doing a great job. I can't wait to see more progress. :thumbsup:

Thanks. I took off from work next week, so if the moon and stars align properly, I should have more photos next week. Hopefully, I can get the front subframe back under it, and maybe even start the subframe connector install. But, of course, life always gets in the way.

Chris how u comin on the car? It looks awesome so far. Thats alot to do for the first time but u look like u doin well. I have my truck tore down rite now to goin to powdercoat frame then start puttin back together i hope. :thumbsup:

Toben

Nice build! Makes mewant to start on my 67' camaro. I plan on doing the same mods. How you liking the DP 90? I love the stuff. I reduce it 10% when I spray and it takes most of the orange peel out of it. I like how you sprayed the inside of the quarter before you hung it. Thanks for the pics!! On the Harbor frieght tools..I bought a warranty once just to see if it worked..I wore out an electric grinder and they replaced it twice for free!

The project is coming along well, looking forward to seeing color on it.:lateral:






Randy(D&Z Customs LLC.)
[email protected]
1-262-347-9741

It's coming, but slowly. I've managed to get the subframe under the car and aligned to the best of my ability so that I could start welding in the DSE sub frame connectors. I've pulled about 6 million dimensions on the car and subframe. Some x dimensions are within a 1/16th and other dimensions like wheel base dimensions are about 3/8" off from side to side. I don't have the rear suspension under the car yet, so I'm doing my best in determining the 12:00 position on the quarter lip and then dropping a plumbob to the ground to find the center of the wheel opening to measure the wheel base. Who knows, I could be slightly off with my guessing. I did get the driver side floor cut out and the connector is fitted and ready to be welded. BUT before I weld it in, I think I'll hang the front sheetmetal one more time and measure some more.

I find myself trying to build a 68 Camaro with 2010 specs, and it just ain't happening to work out the best for me. I'll be posting pictures soon hopefully. The holidays were supposed to be time for me to work on the car, but that it didn't happen! Stay tuned.

I like the DP-90 so far. I've only used it on the exterior of the car. Everything you see in grey is the Omni line of epoxy primer by PPG. It's much cheaper than the DP-90 and was more appealing to me for the areas not seeing a basecoat/clearcoat application.

Me too.

Good idea to re hang the front sheetmetal before final welding. You can NEVER measure enough to be sure things are where they should be. Where are you pulling the dimensions from at the front of the car to check your wheel base? And did you check the body shell for square using the alignment holes up front(for the sub frame) and cross back to the front of the leaf spring mount? Did either of those leaf spring mounts get replaced?

Oh, one more thing. I have a Speedtech front suspension kit coming from Frank at Prodigy Customs along with a new set of Forgelines!!!!!! Here's the exact wheels I ordered.

SO3's with a polished outer lip, brushed/cleared centers and the hidden bolt option. I can't wait to see them on the car.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0237_large.jpg

Actually, I had the front sheet metal on the car and rough fitted last week. It fit really well. I used several areas to measure from. The four main points I started with were the 2 dowel pin holes located in the front subrame mount. I also used the two 5/8" holes at the front of the rear frame rails (same holes you're talking about). I measured front to back on each side and am within an 1/8". I then measure diagonally and am still within an 1/8". I then dropped a plumbob from the core support holes in the front of the subframe and measured diagonally again to the holes in the rear frame rails. Actually this measurement is within 1/16".

I tried to check wheel base, but like I mentioned, I have no rear suspension in the car yet. I tried to get the most accurate 12:00 position on the quarter lip and dropped a plumbob from there. I then dropped a plumbob from the center of the lower ball joint and measured front to back. The drivers side measures 108-3/8" and the passenger side is dead on 108" which is what it was SUPPOSED to be from GM. I figure since I'll be running an adjustable 4 link, the 3/8" probably won't matter too much since I'll be able to move things around in the back.

My biggest concern right now is that before I started this build, I had installed some LS1 brakes on the front of the car. Because of the rim, I had to use a 1/2" spacer and of course it pushed the rim out further. When I did this, the passenger side wheel stuck out considerably more than the driver side. I personally, had never removed the front subframe and who knows if it was square to begin with. With the drum barkes and no wheel spacer, I never noticed it.

So, I need to make sure the subframe is not off left to right before I weld the connectors in.

Oh, and no to your question about the leaf spring mounts. My original torque boxes were in mint condition, so I decided to leave them welded to the frame rails so that the frame rails had no chance of moving when I removed the floor. I just cut the torque boxes off the new floor and left the originals in place.

With the new 4 link rear you will be able to adjust A LOT of things in the rear suspension and get it dialed. That 3/8" shouldn't make any difference by the time it is all settled in.

For the sub frame, if you measured all of those points and it is looking as good as it is then you should be ok with the wheels fitting right and looking symetrical as far as width goes compared to the fenders. Now if the core support or some other structure up front is bent and throwing the fender positions off you will have to correct that. But you said the mock up looked good at this point.

Do you have any way to finish the entire front end mock up with tires, suspension, brakes, inner fenders ....that will show everything and you will be able to fix any issues prior to paint.

Yeah, I can bolt everything up. The stock front suspension is still on the subframe and I have everything else. I mocked everything up excluding the inner fenders and everything was pretty good. A few shims here and ther and it appears to be good. I'll have to double check a few things before I weld.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Going to look awesome!!

Chris those wheels look sick !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Keep the pics coming.
Steve

brother Chris love the wheels! Good choice. As i have always said, wheels and stance will make or break a car. :thumbsup: