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yes its looking great. looking forward to the updates
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The bushing kits for the frame end of the the four link bars arrived. I got them from Suicide Doors which is now Quality Air Ride. The outter sleeves are very nicely made, they appear to have been cut on a lathe.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/linkbushing001.jpg |
made a bit of progress on the rear suspension. The angle of seperation between the upper link will be 45 degrees. I can't get more than that unless I make the upper links really short. I need to make some sort of bridge for the upper links on the housing. The lower links are about 23" c-c.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link001.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link002.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link003.jpg |
Here's the four link with most of the bracketry tacked in place. after i took these pics, I pulled it all apart. I've got a whole lot of welding to do now .
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link011.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link010.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link009.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link008.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link007.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link006.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link005.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link004.jpg |
It looks good, coming togther nice.
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Sorry - but I think your angles are far too steep going to the center like that with the top bars.
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the wide angle pictures make the angle of the upper link look steeper than it is. Link angles and lengths were determined by my CAD drawings. I also checked anti squat based on estimations of CG and it should be close to 100%, if not more. The lower bars are parallel to the ground and the included angle at the upper rear link is 70 degrees.
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I just went through your thread, and I love the build. If you want to match your "Patina" go to a craft store like Michaels, the sell a paint that has a high iron content, and a chemicle that will turn it to rust.
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I've already figured out a way to very quickly create rust with a few common household items. it works well with metal filings (almost too well, it created an exothermic reaction:_paranoid ), but i have not tried it on any sheet metal yet. There are a few places on the cab that i need to patch to prevent water leaks and I might try treating those areas after I patch them. There a whole lot of those paints available in all sorts of colors and that would be an option if i'm not happy with my results.
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I welded the front half of the frame to the back half and mocked up the bed & cab again. I need to gusset where the frames connect to get rid of the flex that it has now.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link012.jpg This shot shows the angle of the upper links better http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link013.jpg |
i like it......................
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Wow, that looks mean. Very nice.:thumbsup:
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I mocked up the bed again but this time not on jackstands. I tack welded the rear portion in place and the front is resting on the frame. I might roll it outside to take a few pics. The driver's side running board is just clamped in place.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941_dodge_truck-001.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941_dodge_truck-002.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941_dodge_truck-003.jpg |
I'm digging it wedged. That is going to be a great looking truck.
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It looks good with those big meats under there. I like it!
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very nice:thumbsup:
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looking really great! like the style!
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I hope you leave the body as is. I like the rat rod look. You just need a pack of smokes rolled up in your sleeves and some pomade for the dew! Nice!
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I like:thumbsup:
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Looks sweet! I like it :thumbsup:
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I lost track of this build for a while... looking sweet!:thumbsup:
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Q: for ya- what size are the holes that are drilled in the 18" steel rims? I 'think' they may match up to my Dodge 20" steelies for a rubber rake while allowing a little bit of tire to be mounted. <fingers crossed>
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the holes in the rims are 1.30" .
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Thanks!
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I agree that keeping the patina will be tres cool. You can't recreate that.
Gustave |
Boxed the small section of dakota frame that was not boxed. This made the entire frame a whole lot more rigid. I'll probably add some gussets to the corners where the rear half meets the cross member once I put the loop and the exhaust ports into the cross member. The piece of green box tube is just temporary. the trans tailshaft is resting on it and it also kept the rails the correct distance apart.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/boxframe001.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/boxframe003.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/boxframe005.jpg |
are those front wheels the ones you'll be using? personally i think a larger diameter wheel would look better and match the rear nicely. style is on point though.
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the trans cross member is mostly complete. I just need to make a bracket for the urethane mount to sit on. I ended up pulling the engine off the frame to open up the bolt holes in the brackets on the frame for the engine mounts. I couldn't get the tailshaft to move to where it needed to be, but now I can move it around some.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/transcross001.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/transcross002.jpg |
after spending some time holding up various bits of metal and trying to figure out how I wanted to make the mount pad, I decided to keep it simple. I bent a piece of 3/16" plate, dilled a hole and welded it in place. Next on the list is ordering some more materials: the loops for the driveshaft and exhaust to pass through the rear cross member, a few 1 3/4" 180 degree bends to modify the headers and some other odds and ends.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/transx001.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/transx002.jpg |
I did some work on the bed. Before, the only thing holding the sides at the back was the tailgate when closed with the chains. On a stock truck, the bed floor was wood and there were wood cross bars under the bed. The rear most one was through bolted to the bottom of the rear stake pockets. I put some box tube from side to side to hold it together. The rear most piece of tube has uprights that go up inside the stake pockets. I plug welded them inside the pockets. It made the rear bed sides a lot more stiff and stable now, even with tailgate off.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/bed_gate001.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/bed_gate002.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/bed_gate003.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/bed_gate004.jpg |
I haven't touched the truck in almost 2 months, other than to move it so i can park my dually in the shop while on the road at car shows. I got a job with March Performance and it's been keeping me quite busy :willy:
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Congrats on the job! Those up rites will make a big difference over the wood ones.
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havn't found any time lately?
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Not much. I did pick up a few things i need, but no progress.
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well at least your thinking about it:thumbsup:
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Wow how did i miss this thread - great project.
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