Here's what I did today to try to sweat out this terrible summer cold I have. I painted the engine bay in the Camaro. I didn't bother to take anything apart, all I did was degrease everything and I was very selective with the rattle can. Still have this summer cold though.

Also, Phase Two of my power program is coming in the mail. You'll never guess what I bartered to get it.

Here are a couple of before pictures:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5374390_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._3924999_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4765898_n.jpg

And now a few after. Remember, this is a toy/race car, not something you'll EVER find at Pebble Beach.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...5_883561_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5815277_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4722402_n.jpg

I would say the next step is to actually install the engine!

looks a lot better Nathan, good job!

Jody

I found this old video from 3 years ago and thought I'd share it. Still down with bronchitis, so no work on the Camaro.


454, 304 degree adv duration cam, 177 mini blower, open headers.

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=48253963

I've got a secret. I'm going to be making more power than I said I would.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...1_666245_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._2331774_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._3257599_n.jpg

I worked this weekend, so I didn't have much time to spend on the Camaro. I did get the engine off the stand and onto the engine hoist. While I was trying to install the flexplate I found that the ARP bolts recommended by Summit we standard fine thread instead of M11x1.5. Correct bolts are on the way!

Nice work man. I have been following your thread since the beginning and you do good work. I can't wait to see the it on the road.

Thanks, I think that's the first time in my life that someone has said I do nice work. I should be making black stripes on the road late August or early September. Maybe.

Nice work on the engine bay.

Quicky update. The engine is spending the night between the frame rails!

Got the flexplate on and torqued.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1760647_n.jpg

Having a heck of a time getting the dowls in the engine block into the bellhousing...and the drivers side mount hole is just a BIT off. Less than 1/8th", but enough that I can't insert the bolt. Need to get that figured out, then lift the engine up and get the headers in there.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...2_145578_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4423069_n.jpg

I'll give it another couple hours of work tomorrow night.

Nate, I am thinking of trading my Saleen Mustang for a 70 Camaro. I definately want to run an LSx style motor with a T-56 behind it. I want to keep the EFI on it. Is there a reason you decided to go with a carb set up instaed of keeping the EFI? From the pictures it looks like the LS motors sit high up, are you going to have any trouble fitting this under a stock hood? If I do this I will probably going to run a 3" to 4" cowl hood anyways so that is not an issue. I was just curious is all. I really can't wait to see the motor sitting in there. Keep up the good work man and I will keep watching this thread.

I went with the carb for a couple of reasons.

1. I already had a carb, and with a $30 rebuild kit it was as good as new.

2. This manifold will make more power than a stock LS1/6 or truck manifold.

3. I was secretly planning on running a nitrous plate under the carb.

4. My fuel system is already setup with a low pressure electric pump.

In the long run, it was easier, cheaper and will make more power than the EFI system. It wont run as well, but that's ok by me.

Went to install my headers and the driver's side went in perfectly...but the passenger side:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._2589842_n.jpg

Stopped right about there, looked like it was hitting the frame with the outside most tube. So, under the car I went to investigate and I found this:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5217969_n.jpg

Riding hard against the a-arm mount. The headers still need to drop just a bit and swing closer to the transmission....and that's when I found the real culprit!

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8021464_n.jpg

That's a tab on the bellhousing for my 700r-4 transmission. These headers were not made with that bellhousing in mind I believe. I also think that it's not structurally important and I can chop it off. With it out of the way, the headers should slide right into place!

Like the driver's side headers:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7923622_n.jpg

It's a LITTLE bit close to the same tab on the other side of the bellhousing, but this picture is a bit deceiving. There's more than 1/4" clearance there.

Also, while I was at it I took a picture of the oil pan clearance. It hangs down almost as low as my milodon pan on my BBC did and I gained an inch or so by going from the BBC to the LQ4.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...5_463539_n.jpg

I find this to be more than acceptable for a street-strip car that I will drive carefully everywhere. Just ran out and measured the thickness of that weed-whacker line that was under the car (worked great to keep the headers up and away while I installed the motor for the final time). It measures about 1.5" thick. So it looks like I have about 4.5" from the pan to the ground. This is the 'muscle car' kit from GM. It uses the LH8 pan from the H2.

And finally, I tossed a few loose parts on the motor to mock things up and give a preview of the future.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._3986336_n.jpg

That looks great in there nice job. I love the orange on the motor.

Got a bunch more work in today since I took a mental health day from work.

Just a reminder....passenger header hit this tab on the 700r4 bellhousing:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8021464_n.jpg

This was quickly fixed with a hack saw since that piece does nothing but get in the way.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7498957_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...4_614847_n.jpg

And now there's TONS of space.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5996061_n.jpg

Now it clears the A arm mount just fine.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...8_777686_n.jpg

And the frame is a bit tight, but should still work just fine.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8309939_n.jpg

I installed the coil packs, spark plugs and plug wires. No pictures of this since it isn't very glamorous.

The next big hurdle I had to jump over was the dipstick mount not clearing the flange on the Edelbrock headers.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7210941_n.jpg

Before:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7101696_n.jpg

After:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...1_233508_n.jpg

Viola! Fits perfect.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._3532874_n.jpg

Things are really coming together.

Here's a new one.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5335381_n.jpg

Looks good.:thumbsup:

Coming along good! FYI every dyno/flow test I've ever seen with that K&N open lid says they hurt flow/hp, they cause turbulence over the top of the boosters.

That's what I've been told too, after I had already bought it. I have a solid dome top coming in the mail. I'll paint it orange to match the block and valve covers. Then I will test both back-to-back to see the truth for myself. I tend to believe those that win races who say it hurts power, but I'm also experimenting with this car as much as possible.

Looking good Nathan!!:thumbsup: :cheers:

Sorry guys, life has been a handful lately. Got a few little bits and pieces done today. Upper and lower radiator hose is installed. Steam vent piping is hooked up and good to go. Fit checked a bunch of other stuff. Determined I have a gas pedal cable that is frayed and snagging, so that has to be replaced now. Also dropped the gas tank with the thought of installing a fuel cell in the trunk to prep for a dedicated fuel system for the nitrous down the road.

First things first, the lower hose. A source told me that the Gates 21505 would fit and I failed to do my homework beyond that to make sure it did before I ordered one. When it showed up the ID of the tube for radiator side and waterpump side was 1-3/4". Need 1-1/2" on both ends. The bends were about dead on, so I headed to the parts store to find one that worked. Ended up with a Dayco 71397. Lopped a inch or so off each end and viola!

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...0_871519_n.jpg

The upper hose is a stock unit for a chevy truck. I ended up with a Gates 22436 hose. Fit the waterpump perfect (duh) but was a wee bit small for the radiator. After some gentle coaxing, some real loving XXX rated coaxing, I got it to fit. I believe the radiator side of the hose is 1-5/16" and my 3 core HD radiator for a 70 Camaro with big block is 1-1/2".

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4395933_n.jpg

Next is the fun part. Figuring out how to bleed air and vent steam into/out of the cooling system. There is a high point in the cooling system now near the bend of the hose right here:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...3_329662_n.jpg

It will trap air and hurt cooling flow through the engine. Turns out I need a high point in the cooling system to run a line from the steam tubes in the cylinder heads to. And I used this to make that happen.

http://l15.sphotos.l3.fbcdn.net/hpho..._7495389_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._3067554_n.jpg

It's from Jags That Run. It has an inlet/outlet size of 1-5/16", a bleed valve and a barb fitting for the 1/4" ID hose from the steam vent. I cut the hose where I wanted the splice to be made and installed one half.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._3533900_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7990671_n.jpg

Then the other half and routed the steam vent line.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8333845_n.jpg

Doesn't look half as frankensteined as I thought it would. Plus it will be functional.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8181977_n.jpg

I did a few other things like run the PVC hose and test fit the heater hoses. I have a small concern about the rubbing of the hoses on the upper A-arms.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._2239212_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8378695_n.jpg

I think I can get away for a while by wrapping the hoses at this point. Any thoughts?

Hey Nathan, things are looking really good! I have lost all of your contact info and would love to get in touch to catch up. Can you PM me your number please? I'd really like to stop in and meet your baby for the first time and check out the car too.

Sent you a PM with a long list of stuff I could sure use some help with.

Things I got done recently:

1. Got the starter installed and the passenger side header installed tonight.
2. Located, drilled a hole and installed the fuel pressure regulator on the fenderwell.
3. Consolidated wiring around the battery to clean things up.
4. Installed the adaptor and the autometer temp sensor.
5. Installed the new temp switch for the electic fan.
6. Installed engine ground wire.

Things left to do.
1. Make and install power wire for electric fan.
2. Install alternator (coming soon, will be next major update with pictures)
3. Heater hoses (will probably show pics on this too)
4. Wire ignition controller
5. Reinstall fuel pump and fuel tank after cleaning them.
6. New throttle cable wire
7. Serpentine belt
8. Coolant plug for passenger side head
9. Oil filter and oil
10. Coolant
11. Get a fire extinguisher
12. Make some noise.

:thumbsup:

Jody

Here we go, starting working on it again after a long hiatus.

Decided that I didn't like the look of the x-stream filter lid and also after multiple reports of performance issues, I decided to use this AFCO aluminum lid.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...8_238729_n.jpg

Time to install the nitrous bottle.

First I drilled a hole for the nitrous line to run through and rough routed the braided hose. Note: this will need a rubber grommet that has not yet been aquired or installed.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4400392_n.jpg

Next, I had to decide where I wanted the bottle. I had to keep in mind where the bolts for the bracket would end up so that they wouldn't interfere with the gas tank. Another consideration I had was the small area to pull the bottle in and out of. This made me decide to install the bottle sideways. While this is NOT the prefered direction to install the bottle, I felt the ease of reaching the valve and removing and replacing the bottle was more important for me. I will rarely use the nitrous, and only with a full bottle.

Here is the template in place.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1630770_n.jpg

Test fitting the bottle on the template, BEFORE drilling.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2837963_n.jpg

I'm ok with this for clearance.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1249599_n.jpg

First I start drilling with a small pilot drill.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...93_59428_n.jpg

And finish with the final drill size.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...94_59828_n.jpg

Very important, don't forget to debur the holes.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1106801_n.jpg

Now I fasten the brackets using the holes I drilled. It's important to put the head size of the bolt on the underside of the trunk floor. This allows for adequate clearance between the bolt and the gas tank.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2064306_n.jpg

Now, how do I tighten these bolts when I am on the underside of the car? Do I have magically long arms? Nope, I have a wife tool. A girlfriend tool or a kid tool can work as well. Some people might even find that a beer drinking buddy tool can be helpful.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4603117_n.jpg

Bottle installed and hose hooked up.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._7256095_n.jpg

Now I'm ready to clean the rust in the trunk and paint it. Also, my gas tank is ready to reinstalled after I cleaned and painted it.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3602031_n.jpg

Almost down to just needing the wiring done. Really not looking forward to it.

Here's the 6LS installed on the firewall. It ALMOST fit the exact same footprint of the Mallory HyFire IV box I had there before. Just had to really force one screw in to make a new hole for itself.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...6_511756_n.jpg

Now for the moment you've all been waiting for. Ok some of you have been waiting for. The installation of the alternator bracket and adaptor/spacer I fabbed earlier. https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...3&postcount=78

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6532398_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4226901_n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._7344145_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3496406_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4072100_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...3_435326_n.jpg

It does sit a little high, but that's because I used the upper outside hole on the head instead of the lower one I mocked it up with. I like the belt angle and clearance this position gives me. However, not sure if it will clear the hood. Actually thinking it won't after giving a good look at it. I will give it a shot with my old hood I have sitting outside after it dries off.

Hey Nathan,Looks like it's coming together really well!
Sorry I have not been in touch, things have been a little nutty here......but should smooth out very soon.

After staring at the location I installed it, I decided it was way too high. I did the worlds WORST counter bore for the upper outside most bolt since the nut would interfere with the cylinder head when I moved the outer head bolt to the lower location. It like this location a lot better.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._8122388_n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2916132_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6537536_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4086708_n.jpg

And here's the world worst counter-bore. It works though, everything is VERY close to touching.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...4_581884_n.jpg

Someone on another board asked me why I didn't just get a bracket from car Y and space that out and use a late model alternator.

I had a known good, fairly expensive Powermaster one wire alternator already from my previous SBC/BBC installs. Also already had the BBC alt bracket and the adjustable rod. The aluminum was basically free to me, just had to do someone a favor for it. So I am out labor and the $10 or so for fasteners. Oh, plus the $5 pulley. I think I'm making out like a bandit and my electrical setup stays exactly the same as I had it before.


Side by side before and after.

BEFORE.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._7344145_n.jpg

AFTER.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6537536_n.jpg

Hey no problems. Let me know anytime you want to come over, have a few beers and do my wiring for me! :lol:

Here's a minor update. Added a gromett and painted a little.

Here's the gromett covering the hole for the nitrous hose.
Before:
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2791843_n.jpg
After:
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3830141_n.jpg

I did a little painting with this stuff:
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6506722_n.jpg

Thought one bottle would be enough, but it wasn't. I will need to touch up a little with another bottle later.
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6081726_n.jpg

Before:
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2064306_n.jpg
After:
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1113353_n.jpg

It leaves a nice rubberized texture, just curious how well it will last.
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3591720_n.jpg

And with the bottle installed.
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...7_722475_n.jpg

There was a question about using the stock hood with this intake and carb. I will have to say, not possible unless you don't run and aircleaner or a choke horn. And even then, it might be a little close.

I'm running a K&N drop base bottom, a K&N 3" filter, and an AFCO dome top lid. Plus, I have a .5" nitrous plate. This will push me to a 4" or taller cowl hood. Someone running no nitrous plate or spacer, plus a flat top, drop base filter will need a 2" cowl at least. Or get really creative.

The blue line represents the top of the aircleaner (not the domed part, just the lip edge. My dome top really pushes me to need a bigger cowl) The red line is the firewall cowl which is the same height, roughly, as the hood.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._5070174_n.jpg

Just a minor update. Did a little clean up work and painted the alternator bracket, the alternator (damn, there's a ton of little holes to mask off...and yes, I know I could have just taken it apart), and painted the airfilter lid. All of them got a couple of coats of aluminum pigmented paint. I think it turned out really nice.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2521691_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6763322_n.jpg

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3838054_n.jpg

Did I ever mention that I hate chrome or most anything that shines? Except for stainless.

I am also fully aware of how much crap I have piled on the cowl, the fenders, my tool box, my work bench....

It looks good. Who's paint did you use??

It's just some DupliColor Engine Enamel with Ceramic, Cast Aluminum color from a rattle can. It was really hard to work with. Wanted to make runs with the smallest ammount sprayed. It was sort of cold in the garage though...

You know how sometimes, if you stare at a problem long enough a simple solution will jump out at you? Well, I solved my heater hose delema and fixed a routing problem with my fuel system at the same time. Bad news is I need more parts now. A fuel log to run a single hose from my FPR to the carb, and fittings to run a hose to the nitrous selenoid. I was going to build a shield, but this seems to be working.

All I had to do was slightly relocate and angle my fuel pressure regulator (FPR) to allow one of the heater hose to take it's natural path to the waterpump. This also allowed me to no longer have one of the heater hoses in contact with the return line. As you can see, there's now at least 1" between any hose, structure or other hoses.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1690222_n.jpg

I drilled two holes big enough for a zip tie in the inner fender and used an old wire loom clamp as a spacer.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._8105139_n.jpg

And routed the heater hose through the stock clamp on the fender.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...7_465006_n.jpg

Reinstalled fuel pump, readied the the gas tank to be reinstalled.

Went to the hardware store and got nuts and washers for engine mount through-bolts.

Also got some wire terminals....

Car did a neat trick today too. IT TURNED OVER FOR THE FIRST TIME. Of course, no start since the fuel system isn't finished and the igniton isn't wired.

Everything sounded good, building compression, no odd sounds. No power to my interior lights or gauges which was odd. I will have to figure that out. Dying to see if it's building oil pressure while cranking.

Also made myself a promise, no pictures of anything until it's running!

Headers
 

Hey man, what headers did you use. I'm doing your same setup in an '81 Camaro. I'm trying to choose headers with minimal issues.

why didnt you paint the oil pump and all the other stuff on the front of the motor that looks old??

Edelbrock headers, hard to find them anymore. There are better out there now.

They are aluminum and just need to be cleaned better...might paint them in the future, but wasn't a huge concern at the time.

Update
 

Just want to let everyone know, this project has NOT been given up on! I recently had weight loss surgery (every 100lbs is a 1/10TH!) and have been recovering from that. Also needed help on the electrical. Had it cranking, wired the fuel pump relay, went to test and and....no power at all to the car all of the sudden.

Had my father come down last weekend and we went through all of the under-hood wiring. The OE stuff, stuff others hacked on, and stuff we spliced into the hacked on OE stuff. Found a few minor shorts, fixed some severed wires, removed superfluous (yes, I had to spell check that word) wiring and still....it would sometimes crank, then sometimes have no power, yet all the fuses and breakers were fine. We did have a mystery 50ohm resistance in the system somewhere....

I finally noticed that there appeared to be rubber trapped between the main ground wire lug and the battery terminal. Took that off and sure enough, there was only about 10% of the lug making contact with the battery. After carefully trimming away the rubber from the cheaply made lug, it was reinstalled, the car cranks, power was restored and the mystery resistance went away!

Finally, we rewired the fuel pump relay, put gas in the tank and turned the key. No fuel pump sound, no fuel pressure! Chased the voltage from the battery to the relay to the pump and 12v went all the way. Had a good ground too. Dead pump...and after all the work we put into it. Called it quits and ordered the a new pump.

I pulled the OE steering wheel (will be in the for sale section soon, 1970 RS steering wheel!) to prep for the Grant wheel I'm replacing it with and to allow me to fit better under the dash to replace the poorly installed wiring I did 12 years ago before I knew what I was doing!

Sorry, no photos from the wiring work, I was too busy and in a hurry and LeMans was on and something, something, something. I will go take some pictures of the current state and how I feel about crappy Mallory pumps tonight.

All is well, fire up in 30 days or less (Dr. has told me to take it easy...)