I haven't been driving it yet steve, she goes in this week for an alignment and other assorted tweaks. hopefully I can get it to a few cruise nights before they all shut down. Its still in the mid 70's to mid 80's around here, humidity has been high so it feels hotter than it actually is. My wife and I have been tossing the idea of moving down south, maybe more towards the myrtle beach, SC area, but we have a bunch of family who have retreated down to florida. Taxes are just killing us up here!!! Once I register the bird I'm gonna have to pay propety tax on it every year!!!!! rediculous on a car this old.

Why property tax???

we pay taxes on a car when we register it, again, and then a registration fee every year,

and our state was in a deficit in the tune of 7.2 million or billion, can't remember which, because the amount of people leaving the state to find jobs else where, so they raise the rate of everything state, liscense's, tags, anything you can think of, by almost 50%, it sucks,

Ok, she's at my mechanic today, hopefully I goes well! She drove pretty good down there at least hahaha. Also having them install my global west subframe connectors.

Question, I have a Chevy small block in it, stock heads and internals, performer intake and performer 600 CFM carb. I was given a brand new performer rpm intake to use, but the lowes CFM recommendation for it is 750. Will it be counter productive to swap the rpm intake on with the 600 CFM carb? Or will this work and there will just be a bit of power loss?

leave the performer, the RPM, would work better for a cam change,

Got her home, rides much better now. the clunking sound ended up being the inside wheel weight hitting the tie rod, harder when the wheels were cut of course, the rims are extremely close to the tie rod, so the rims will have to get replaced soon. they were temporary anyways, but might be forced to get some earlier.

Ok, took the car for a nice ride around the neighborhood today, rides pretty darn good. but the smell, its god awful. I started to think that it may not be running rich, it might be burning oil. so I pulled all the plugs this afternoon and ALL of them were oil fouled, oil all the way up the threads on most. Is it possible that the rings are bad on every piston? or could it be leaking in from the cylinder head? how would I check?

compression test and a leak down test,

Let it sits over night, then start it, does it pour out smoke when you start it?? that would be valve seals or guides,

Smoking all the time while running could be severly worn guides or rings,

now its time to delvulge a little info on the motor, age wear, was it beat on, ever rebuilt, by who,

time to look into it!!

thanks steve. I'm actually unaware of the year of the motor, it was in the car when I bought it and I've never removed it. I believe it to be an early 80's 305 or 350 out of an IROC. At least that's what I was told it was 11 years ago. It actually doesn't really pour out smoke at all, it just quickly comes out in short bursts out the tailpipes, doesn't look like I'm trying to keep the mosquitoes at bay, LOL. Talked to my mechanic today and he suggested to actually get some mileage on it over the next week or two and see if the seals and all start to swell up on their own, he figures this since it sat for so long without being started. I'll do an oil change and go this route and see what happens.

I'm not gonna be able to afford the lowering leaf springs for the rear at the moment, so I've decided to use lowering blocks until I can afford it, are there any brand of blocks out there that anyone can recommend? I know they aren't a recommended lowering option, but it will be temporary until I can get the $450 up for the hotchkis leafs. thanks

Oh, and also is there a set of headers that fit a small block chevy that tuck up closer to the floor of F-bodies? the drivers side header collector flange hangs low and is about an inch and a half off the ground now and the rear isn't lowered yet, I've already scrapped the flange during a ride.

Here's a comparison of the stance when it went into hibernation and when it finally came out.

Before:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q.../694838453.jpg

After:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...2C4DD9F912.jpg

Rene, go with alum lowering blocks, some have a degree adjustment already built in so your pinion angle does not get impacted. I do not see any issues with lowering blocks, and a good way to dial things up. I am seeing guys here buying different sets of leaf springs all the time because they either sat too high or too low, so the blocks will definitely be a inexpensive and easy option to dial in stance until you swap your springs. Also note there are steel blocks that can be tack welded on the mounts if you chose to stick with blocks.

Thank you for the advice gerberhard! will keep that all in mind

taking the day off tomorrow and getting her insured and registered!!!!! might just make it to a cruise night before they all stop after all!

registered and insured the bird on friday. took it for a ride yesterday and the smoking problem seems to have gotten really worse in just a few miles. It was pinging, then when I came to a stop light it would smoke for a bit, then taper down, but it really smelt bad. I'm gonna have to pull the heads off and check them out.

try some engine Restore, cant hurt,

whats the pinging from, is the timing screwed up, carb running to rich, is it oil smoke or unburnt fuel???

I dont think pulling the heads will help till you figure out what it is,

I'm not sure steve, it wasn't pinging at first, then started, when it started pinging thats when I noticed it would smoke alot from the back for a few seconds when I came to a stop, and it smelt like burnt oil extremely bad. I have no idea what it is. :mad: I'm thinking its the valve seals, because I never had these problems before it went into the garage. :rolleyes:

before you get crazy and pull the heads, do a compression test, and check the plugs again,

and you can change the seals without pulling the heads, get the cylinder on TDC, fill the cylinder full of air, use a long arm tool, or small spring compressor then pull the spring and replace the seal reassemble and repeat!!!

Well after some investigating last night, I've got some very small amounts of antifreeze leaking from the rear of the head gasket on the drivers side onto the back of the motor. I wipe it off and a small amount starts streaming down again. I haven't checked the pass side, but either way both heads will have to come off. might as well get a small valve job done and freshen the heads up while they are off.

and that right there Rene, is a reason to pull the heads!!!!

Look what poured out of the collector after i unbolted it

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...psc7c60aad.jpg

Looked like it was mostly at cylinder 5

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps0efc8be5.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...psed139cbb.jpg

I might just get new head gaskets and valve seals but leave the rest of the head alone. I've got a 350 4 bolt block that's been laying around that I should start building up. Thanks for your replies Steve, you seem to be the only one giving advice lol

Rene ouch, that is definitely not a good sign. new gaskets, etc, and then do a compression check, also any oil on the coolant (on radiator)?

Gui

thanks Gui, yea, all new gaskets are gonna go in, new valve seals too while the heads are out, then I'll do a compression check. I didn't see any oil at all in the coolant. Hopefully the head gaskets were my only problem. I'm hoping to find the extra cash this week to buy what I need to get her back together quickly, we'll see what the wife allows, LOL.

I might just get new head gaskets and valve seals but leave the rest of the head alone. I've got a 350 4 bolt block that's been laying around that I should start building up. Thanks for your replies Steve, you seem to be the only one giving advice lol


Been there done that, got my first camaro when I was 16, tried to get my buddy to buy it, but he and his dad didn't want it, so I asked how much, long story short, ended up buying it for $600, tightened up the converter bolts and drove it for 2 years!!! been through all kinds of ordeals with my cars,

my favorite, was how all of a sudden my 327 developed a skip, did everything I could think of, ended up being a bad pushrod, the top end was missing .125 off the tip!!!!, have no idea!!!


Glad I could help through the keyboard!!!!

Got mostly everything I need to put it all back together. New head gaskets, new head bolts, new valve seals, new gaskets for intake and exhaust, and a new 10 in. air cleaner ( the new rpm manifold is taller so the 14 inch would hit the hood bracing at the back). Valve seals on one head complete. Have to pick up a heater hose fitting for the new intake tomorrow and of course an oil filter and oil as well as coolant. Hoping to get time to get it back together by the weekend.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...085C830817.jpg

Small steps. heads are back on.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...A57ECB5E01.jpg

And new intake is ready to go too.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...A58B33B518.jpg

got the motor buttoned up, just need to set the valve lash, I haven't done it yet because I never have and I'm a tad nervous LOL.

also installed lowering blocks in the back. I had to use a small spacer to move the wheel out a tad or else the the shock mount on the lower perch would be hitting the inner part of the rim. I don't have the proper backspacing yet, so I have to do it this way until fund roll in for proper stuff. The spacer is 5/16, I could probably get away with a smaller one, and most likely will so my lugs get more of a bit on the studs. I can't wait to get it out of the garage and see what it looks like. (and yes, I don't have the outside u-bolts in yet, I have to make the upper holes a bit bigger so the threaded part goes in the lower perch easier, I had to find my bigger drill for that, which I just found)

oh, and I definitely need to get some shorty headers now, measurement from ground to flange (or bottom of the header for that matter) is just under 2.5 inches on the drivers side. I just keep opening more and more cans of worms here.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...4963A41D20.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...495B501C41.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...48CE74F681.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...48E42F9D55.jpg

progress!!! looking good, lash is no big deal!! you can do it,

well, I finished installing the blocks last night, so thats done, then I tried doing my valve lash adjustment, which didn't go so good. Now its running like a total piece of doggy doo doo. I must have tightened them too much. so tomorrow I'll back them all off and tighten each nut down to 13 turns like I originally did when it seemed to run fine.

re-adjusted the rocker nuts last night and it still runs very bad, basically what I did last night changed nothing. Actually it doesn't run at all. doesn't want to start. I spray starting fluid in the carb it starts but runs extremely rough, almost violently. I'm wondering if somehow I screwed the timing up, but I don't know how I would have done that, I never pulled the distributer out to do the valve lash adjustment!!! I'm stumped. If anybody has any input it would be greatly appreciated, as I'm ready to beat the fenders in with a hammer!!!!!

I'd verify you had your distributor dropped back in right, verify your plug wires are on correct cyl. and re-adjust your valves.

On the valves being a rookie just do one cyl. at a time. turn the engine over when the int. starts to open adjust the exh. valve, when the exh. starts to close do the int. Take out the free play between the pushrod and rocker then give it like a turn more.

Got her out of the garage today, I think I've got the valves decent, might need a tad more adjusting, I'll drive it a bit then do another adjustment.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...AF6E410A6E.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...AF68C07F11.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...AF62D4AF70.jpg

so, you got the valves right, and everythings OK?? been driving it??

there is a small hesitation if I get on the throttle hard from idle, might be timing or carb issue, I've been fighting that for a while, and I think I need to have the alignment double checked, but everything else seems pretty good. I drove it a bit around the neighborhood this weekend (I was on watch my child duty this weekend haha). Was gonna take it to work today, but of course 60% chance of rain all day. maybe tomorrow.

Please help!!!! brake problems.

I've got LS1 brakes on the front of my firebird, I've got a new disc/drum master and prop valve, I have finally taken the car for a few rides and the front brakes stay locked, its happened the last 2 times I've taken the car out. I THINK that the calipers release after the car sits. It did it to me on friday night, sat all weekend till today and it did it again, raised the front of the car and can't spin either wheel. the back wheels seem to spin freely. any ideas?

Rene,

Are you using a prop valve or anything? Did you do ls all arond? Also did you use any spacers on the front or just flat plates to mount the caliper? Any pictures? Are the rear brakes locking when tires are lifted and spun by hand and brakes pressed?

Gui

yes I'm using prop valve, both master and prop valve are made for disc/drum setup. rear has stock drums. no spacers on the front, just the flat plates. the rear brakes are not locking while the front are. as far as the rear spinning while the brakes are pressed, can't try the just yet, need a helper for that.

rene, any way to lift the rear (safelly!!!) and drive then press brakes?

It could be residual or prop valve issue. I would gut or disconnect and see if that is the problem.

What MC are you using?

This is what I'm using.

http://www.performanceonline.com/Dis...lve-Kit-18817/

Rene, have you tried just unbolting slightly the two bolts holding the MCto the firewall to see if your push rod is making too much contact with the MC? May be a simple troubleshoot approach, but I know on a 67 vert I had, when swapped the MC (supposedly same part number), the MC piston surface was closer to the rod.

Was hard to tell but the push rod was engaging the MC enough. I removd, adjusted the pushrod length turning it, and problem resolved.

Gui

I haven't worked on the brakes at all since my question Gui, but since I've received many responses stating that the pushrod length is too long, thats what I'll assume it is at the moment. The reason I haven't checked on it is she is most likely in the garage now for the winter and I'm now thinking about putting a booster in.

If I put a booster in what size, 9 inch, 11 inch, does it matter? anything that I need to do to change over to the power booster or simply hook the booster in between and hood a vacuum hose up? any info would be greatly appreciated, and if you have any links to a recommended booster please post. thank you.

Rene, one more area to check;do you have pics of your caliper mounting bracket for the fornt? Please note a LOT of people (including myself) bought wrong brackets and that wa spart of the issue. Some adapter brackets sell as LS (Camaro\Firebird) swap brackets when they are Corvette (C5) brackets. The caliper swill work, however the rotor and contact patch will be off.

Gui