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Amanda cut four bearing sleeves for the frame pivots, cut the tubes, and pressed the ends into them.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/234.jpg I modeled and cut temporary bushings from LDPE. Later these will be replaced with custom UHMW bushings, with metal sleeves. http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/235.jpg http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/236.jpg http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/237.jpg While cutting them, I was away from the ShopBot doing one of my other multitask items, and a piece of the LDPE melted onto the end mill and caused a little damage to a couple of the bushings, but they'll still work to get everything lined up, with a little hand finishing work. __________________ |
Years ago, when I was busy dreaming up things to do to my then-Camaro-project, Bill Howell urged me to just get the thing on the road and drive it. It turned out to be awesome advice, in a couple of ways. After three years of existence primarily as a shop project, I had a blast the whole summer of 2007 driving my unfinished, primered, project car! :thumbsup: I did a couple local shows, but mostly just drove the darn thing, gaining perspective on what I really wanted to do with it when Ohio winter forced it back in the shop.
The funny part is I ultimately realized I didn't even like the car! :rofl: I bought it (a 79 "California car") to sort of re-live my 2nd-gen "high school sweetheart" 70 Camaro (an Ohio rust bucket). After another summer of love, I realized that those memories were best left... as memories... Fast forward to this year, and the Schism project, and I've finally realized that I started building this car as a budget driver - and how far I have strayed from that premise. :willy: That's because I actually like the car - in the shop, as a project. It definitely trips my creative switch. Good exercise, but I started hearing Bill's "voice" again, and thinking about how I didn't like the Camaro, after all that time (pretty much gave it away to unburden myself). Hence, I am on a mission to "Just Drive It" in 2013, before I go any further off the deep end in design - to find out if I like being in it. Number one priority is finding the things that would hinder that mission, and eliminating them. The first step was returning to the cheapo fiberglass body, because my carbon fiber one-off is going to be a serious investment of time and money. I've also conceded to the fact that my nearly half-century old azz is not crazy about the idea of being pelted by pebbles and sprayed with random liquids, so the doors are staying on it. :D http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/238.jpg http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/239.jpg The one thing that I do want to keep is the roof because, as any of you Goodguys (Columbus) alumni surely realize, it gets a little warm here in the summer. Even if I move somewhere where the sun has less rage, I'm pretty convinced I'll spend a lot more time in it with some shade overhead. The buggy style rag top is underway. http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/240.jpg The funny thing about this is when I mocked these pieces up on the car I thought it was way too tall (against the backdrop of the other roadster and the bike). A quick check with the tape measure brought me back to reality - it will stand 41" tall, with the composite skin! :yes: I love the rear window. I am not really a Ferd guy, but this makes me want to etch the Ford script logo on the glass. http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/241.jpg Tunnel vision! :cool: Should be fun at triple digits... :wow: :lol: http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/242.jpg |
Caveat: Long-winded insight into the "Todd" design process.
Finally, for the first time since we actually started cutting and grinding metal on this car, I see what's in my head on the shop floor. I now get that "feeling", followed by an endless stream of creative ideas, every time I see it. That has been missing. Most of what I have been doing has been in search of that creative spark, not because of it. Thing that unlocked it? The roof. It's really not the roof itself. It's everything. The roof makes all of the ideas come together. The radically chopped, pinched, and sectioned body; the bite-sized, tombstone-shaped firewall flowing into a classic model T cowl; the three-inch ride height, the exposed sidewinder ICE and electric powertrains - all those things are features. Features are meant to complement something - in this case a "car". It's the coupe thing -that's the "car" I was looking for. When I look at it now I see a little coupe - with all these features. Before I saw a bunch of features hanging out together, but with no real identity. Imagine seeing a muscular, well-groomed man, with a thousand-dollar pair of shoes on his silk-socked feet, a perfectly pressed shirt, "power" tie, and a Rolex on his wrist - but with no suit pants or jacket! :_paranoid :D That's what I saw when I looked at Schism. Impressive, but not quite ready for the red carpet. Now, it's like I see a guy in a suit, and start to notice all the impressive accoutrements that go with it. :cool: :) (I didn't use the example of a woman with all the accessories and no dress, for obvious -male- reasons! :unibrow:) The beauty of following this long, crazy, design process is I have developed a more spohisticated little coupe than I ever imagined at the onset. It's sort of like the experimental, accidental, process through life that creates us. The intent is usually clear - to develop a "good" person. The journey to get there is fascinating... :cheers: |
I wish you had stuck with the smartly dressed lady instead. Much better visual.
Is LDPE Delrin or is that the UHMVW ? What is the difference ? |
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LDPE, what I used to make the temporary bushings, isn't suitable for a suspension bushing. It's slippery enough, but pretty soft, and would deform with heat and pressure. I like working with it for some things because it machines decent and can be heated and formed. Delrin is the badazz stuff that makes great race car bushings. It's strong and can stand up to the forces a suspension bushing will "see". The down side is it will also squeak. UHMW is somewhere in the middle. It is relatively "quiet", and also somewhat self-lubricating, so it should make a decent performance street car bushing. Time will tell... For a while, I was leaning towards going really hardcore, with all Delrin and rod ends in the suspension, regardless of the penalty in noise and harness, but have decided to soften its edge a bit, in hopes of spending more time behind the wheel - on the street. It's still going to be like riding a hard-tail chopper - this will hopefully be the difference between one with a hard-mounted metal pan for a seat, and one with a padded seat with the little coil springs under it. :D More technical plastic info: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8574kac/=kkdq0p |
oops, double post
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Very nice Todd ! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Jim |
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We tried kinking one on a hydraulic bending and stamping machine the metalworking guy in the complex has, but it mangled one of Amanda's perfectly machined ends, so we've resorted to a good ol' pie cut. The remaining gap is intentional, to be filled with weld; and a gusset plate will be added on the inside of the bend.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/243.jpg I was concerned that I wasn't going to like these pieces, but really do, now that I see them on the car. I wasn't so sure I was going to like the round tubing in the mix of stamped, cast, and fabricated steel parts. http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/244.jpg I have a lot of crap to stuff in that little area. Upper and lower arms, coil-overs, sway bar with links, four sprockets, two chains, jackshaft, differential, axles, cage tubes, grille, and steering! :_paranoid :unibrow: The rest of the ribs and stringers for the roof, and the luggage bags, have been sliced and are now ready to be rendered in foam. http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/245.jpg You can see the recesses now in the backs, where they fit over the aluminum plates, that mount all the electronic components they'll hide. The upper control arms mounts have been (plasma) cut and are in the process of being ground to shape... |
I don't get it, I just can't see it, can ya draw me a picture ...
You guys have way to much cool stuff to play with - just doesn't seem fair. ;) ;) ;) ;) Jim |
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Hey Jim! :thumbsup: I'll work on those pics. :lol: |
I'm thinking about this for a grille now. I still have to figure out if I can get the steering rack tucked behind it - after we get the upper control arms in place.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/246.jpg I would hammerform the shell from sheet aluminum. It would make a nice teaching tool/learning process for the interns because it would incorporate CAD/CNC to design it, unroll the individual panels, cut them from flat sheet, cut a wooden buck to form the sheet metal over, actual hand fabrication to form it, and TIG welding to make it whole. Another trick process would be to do the front panel by CAD/CNC, whittling a piece of thicker sheet down to the thickness of the other panels, with the Ford logo left embossed on it. I have a really trick idea for incorporating my mesh grille into it, but I need to step back, wait for the suspension, and really think it through though, before investing a ton of CAD time into it. |
Grrrr! :mad: Once again, utter failure. This time something is wrong with their ShopBot. Some expert from the company came in and supposedly fine-tuned and tweaked the machine a couple days ago. The result? For me, it destroyed half of my material. Between the failed casting session and yesterday's disaster, I just lost sixteen hours that could have been spent doing client design projects, which would have paid to subcontract these parts out, and allowed me to keep my focus on design.
I am honestly ready to pack my $#!+ up and move on... :willy: Anyway, using a couple of the failed pieces, here's a mock-up that (if you squint) will reveal the unique little couple profile I've been seeing in my head all this time. Eventually, I will realize this... http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/247.jpg |
Evan, one of my most talented/faithful, interns, has been whittling away at the upper front suspension mounts. He finished the two rear brackets today, and we tacked them in place.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/248.jpg And, he has the motor clamp almost there... http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/249.jpg We're still trying to get the CNC router table working properly, but I did manage to get eight decent-enough pieces for the luggage bags cut; and think it's stable enough to get the rest of the roof's ribs and stringers cut - if we can't find the problem soon. |
Drag radials, for the ultimate dyno sessions.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/250.jpg Amanda milled the front upper control arm mounting plate edges straight and true. http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/251.jpg The front suspension is inching closer and closer... http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/252.jpg |
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Words to live by right there... :thumbsup: |
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As penance, the beatings will be intensified - you know, to make sure it isn't mistaken for a little cream puff. :yes: |
I have a LOT of time in designing the maze of systems in the front of this car, and just as much more left to invest in it; not to mention the time it takes to realize each ridiculous part and system I design. The concept of leaving both drivetrains, and all the suspension, exposed has been in place since earlier this summer, and is playing out beautifully - sort of a performing art type thing - like the toned, muscular, physique of an athlete's body in the tights they wear for competition; why cover it up with baggy "clothes".
The one area I have struggled to nail is the grille; mainly because it serves no real purpose other than adding an element of distinction to Schism's pretty face - lipstick. Seeing the front suspension coming, tangibly, together, and being better able to imagine all the mechanical art woven into that tiny space, it finally became apparent to me what the problem was - a real antique style grille, with a shell, and filler panel, is too much. It's out of balance. Your eyes want to feast on how it all works together, and a full grille covers that function. What's needed is the suggestion of a grille; like the horseshoe on a Bugatti Veyron. It's only function is to make it clear who is responsible for what you're about to witness. In this case, it's my interpretation of what ol' Henry did a century ago. So, I came up with the idea of a 1913 style "grille", that is merely a CAD/CNC billet aluminum trim ring, with my coveted carbon fiber mesh insert. To test the idea, I whittled a mockup panel from a scrap piece of acrylic on the ShopBot, and used a heat gun (with weights clamped to the top and bottom) to roll it, just a touch, over a piece of PVC tubing. I used smoked acrylic to get a hint of what it might look like in carbon fiber and black anodized aluminum. http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/253.jpg http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/254.jpg IMO, it works. It's adding something to the whole, because it makes you want to investigate what's peeking through from behind it. It also seems to tie the little headlights into the bigger picture. Now, if they could just get the ShopBot fixed so I can finish cutting my roof panels. It cuts 2D perfectly, but goes ballistic in the middle of 3D machining; seems software related... |
If it was mine - I'd make a sheet metal grill ala the way you're doing it - but the holes would be round dimple die cut... and maybe in a pattern using two or three different diameters... instead of the squares. The motor is round - the tires and wheels are round - your "top" is rounded off... you have some rounded mounts going on in front etc.:D
Just my .01 worth. |
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While I do like the different diameter dimple die cut panel (would be really cool on the right old hot rod - kinda seeing like a slat flats theme), I have a bug up my azz about making this mesh grille (minus the big shell): http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ms/art/036.jpg I just cut the squares in the acrylic to squint and get a feel for the 1913 grille shape in mesh. You comin' to Columbus this summer, with the '32? :yes: |
Kez was gone for a few months, finishing up her last year of school. Now that she has graduated, and caught her breath, she came out for a few hours today and reminded me just how freakin awesome she is, by doing the final fit on the upper control arm mounts. Precision. Craftsmanship.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/255.jpg Evan did the initial cut-n-grind, then carefully sculpted these pieces to shape; Amanda and I did some manual machining on them; then Kez brought it all together - Team (Inhaler) work! :) We just need to drill the mounting holes, finish the bore on the headlight holes and fit that piece to the frame, then chamfer the weld areas and clean them up, and this will all be ready to tack together. We are steadily inching our way towards a roller... :yes: |
Mesh time (again). :yes:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/256.jpg Curves are a beautiful thing... :cool: |
Evan's metal sculpting and Amanda's machine work have the front suspension coming along very nicely. I'm definitely having the dad watching his baby being born moments seeing this stuff come to life. :cool:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/257.jpg Their progress has enabled Kez to move her precision work back to the roll cage, and start stringing the front bars. This one is oh-so-close... http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/258.jpg http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/259.jpg The end goal here is a heavily triangulated roadster chassis, with dual funny car cages over the occupants - not funny car style tubes incorporated into a traditional full-body cage, real twin funny car upper cages. :yes: |
Technically, this isn't much different than the last pic I posted of the front suspension; BUT, it's a milestone because, at long last, the front upper control arm mounts are tacked in place, and officially a part of Schism's chassis! :yes:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/260.jpg I have a few things to tackle, at once, now. I can get the team started on mounting the steering rack; I need to make temporary bushings to positively locate the lower controls arms, so we can finish those; and I can finally start on the coil-over locations and mounting. The push is on now, to get it rolling! I simply cannot wait to see Schism roll out into the aisle, crank the wheel (remember 1.5 turns lock-to-lock!), and feel/see it change directions! :woot: |
Now begins the serious challenge of fitting all this stuff under Schism's missing bonnet. To get the ball rolling, I made CAD drawings and cut plastic sprockets to mock up the electric-drive "transmission". I knew I would, but now that I actually see it, I l-o-v-e it! :yes:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/261.jpg That's a 20-tooth sprocket on the motor, mounted on a hub that fits the motor's splined output shaft, leading up to a 25-tooth sprocket on the outer end of the jackshaft, a 15-tooth sprocket on the inside, turning a 45-toother on the diff; 630/#60 chain. If my math is correct, that gives me a 4.25:1, single speed, reduction. That should allow both around town and highway driving, on all-electric power. http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/262.jpg |
So the electric is going to be chain drive???
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I like the 33, btw - I am subscribed, of course. :thumbsup: |
A little more work on the grille. I think the "shell" might be a two piece, front and back half, deal that bolts together, clamping the mesh bars between them. Each bar would have a small ball on the end, that would fit in a dimple in the shell halves. I would position and model the balls and sockets so that you can see the sandwiched ball-end bars kind of floating in the shell. The bolts that actually clamp it together would be exposed too, to match the other trim pieces (pedal pads, fuel filler, horn button, etc).
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/263.jpg |
My faithful, dedicated, talented, awesome, Team has literally whittled out a foundation for me to begin doing "my thing" - extreme design concepts. I am winding up...
At this point, I am still exploring the feasibility of what I have in mind for Schism's grille. I design in my head, and CAD is my first tool of choice to translate it; with the fringe benefit of being the next logical/best step towards making the ideas a tangible reality. I can print drawings and patterns, or cut/print directly from the CAD models. This is the ball and socket design I see in my head. The green areas are what you would not see as that would be inside the material of the "shell". The gray flip side of those surfaces are the socket, that would be machined into each shell half. The gap between the mesh bar ball and the socket surface, are the thickness of the carbon fiber cloth. They would not actually float, they would be effectively trapped by the sockets, when the grille halves are clamped together. The visual effect is for them to appear to float though. That flat, abruptly cut off edge of the sockets is the inside edge of the grille shell. So, you would see the ball "floating" in the sockets, in kind of a cutaway, like those awesome drawings and actual sliced engines that let you see the internals. http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/264.jpg From this point, I have enough actual physical data to begin exploring machining and printing processes, to determine how feasible, or not, this idea actually is. For example, the surfaces of the sockets will require a small diameter ball-end mill, which adds substantially to the time each shell half will be on the machine; and how much hand finishing work is required to produce the desired final result. That is always a balancing act between how much the machine does, and how much the man does. Time is money. Also, this shell is supposed to be curved, swept back towards the cowl, at the top. That can be done on a 4 axis machine, from a rather substantial piece of billet, or post machine process, by actually bending the machined part; but it has to be bent precisely and perfectly or the machined part is ruined - time is money. I will eventually model the entire shell and test both routes, digitally; unless I find that the whole idea is completely unfeasible for this project. I am kind of hoping it adds-up, because what I see in my head is pretty cool, and I would like to see it in real life. We should conduct some of the first feasibility tests this evening. I will prepare one of the ball-ended mesh bar models for 3D printing, so we can run it through the machine software and get an idea how much time we'll actually spend there. Additive manufacturing makes the most sense with complex, dense, parts so I have an idea for growing a little forest of these bars, that would be pretty cool - if it adds up. Might be a cool project to do a time-lapse video of... |
Finally getting back on track with the CAD/CNC stuff! It appears that the problem with the CNC router is the tech who came and "tweaked" the machine was a little overzealous in removing the "slop" from the stepper motors' gearboxes. Mind you, the machine was cutting with perfect accuracy, but he determined the gearboxes, especially on the X-axis, were horribly loose. As a result, the machine would appear to bang off a solid physical limit, while machining in 3D (lots of quick direction changes, and constant movement). He eventually offered that area of his professional services as a possible culprit, and suggested I shut the machine down and try to manually push it in the three axes - I had to put a LOT of effort into moving it in both X & Y axes. Then, it would let go, suddenly freewheeling. My guess is this is what was happening in machining, and the hard, audible/visible, bang against the imaginary limit was the stepper motor catching again and basically snatching it out of freewheeling - but out of position (original origin).
To test my theory, I painstakingly machined all 38 of these little slices one-by-one, limiting the machine to a small area, and at fingernail-chewing, thumb-twiddlingly slow, speeds; to allow it to remain "connected". It worked, and perfectly. Two days (twenty-nine hours of machine time) later, I walked away with the rear stringer for the rag top. :headscratch: :bang: (I didn't actually sit in front of the machine that long - I would program/setup a slice, start it, walk away, and come back later to start another...) http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/265.jpg In the meantime, Riley, our new high school intern worked on the aluminum sheetmetal inner frame structure. http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/266.jpg http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/267.jpg These will be TIG'd into a sculptured little "angle iron" frame, and bonded into the carbon/foam/fiberglass/aluminum composite "rag top". :D I am going to run a couple air cuts of the window frames, and if the machine has loosened up enough to stay focused, or (if not) after we re-adjust the gearboxes, I will be able to cut them, and finally assembly the rag top frame. Schism really close to making the transition from a pile of parts to an actual car. |
I was in my office working yesterday, and started hearing things clinking, and then the whir of a right angle grinder. I listened for a bit, and recognized the types and patterns of sounds I was hearing - it was Kez working on the roll cage. She just quietly popped in and got busy. It's funny that I know some of my Team by the sounds of their work. She got the left side front bar close enough to start the right side; then she'll tweak them to match.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/268.jpg http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/269.jpg These are close enough now for me to start working the body back into the picture, which leads the way to Schism finally starting to come together as a complete car. Most of our work, up to this point, has been building the parts that make a car. Soon, we transition into combining all those parts to form an actual car. The ShopBot failed miserably on the air cut of the window frames yesterday. It ended a whopping 7-inches away from the original origin! They need to send a tech out to fix what the last tech f'd up. :warning: |
I figured out how to trick the ShopBot into cutting the last of my foam cores, the window frames - with perfect results! This colorful collection will soon pave the way for Schism's rag top to finally become a reality. I've been drawing and rendering those rag tops for almost three years now! 61 pieces, counting one (that gets sliced up to use sections of) for the windshield that's not in this pic.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/270.jpg The jagged edges are just because I haven't trimmed them yet. I didn't run final cutout passes to trim the bottom edges on the machine because I was purposely giving it as little opportunity as possible to screw up my cores. |
I have been working on some of Schism's aesthetic design cues, so while running errands today I decided to pop in Woodcraft and get an up-close-and-personal view of different species of exotic wood. When I'm imagining and sketching the parts, I kind of know what they should look like, but couldn't put my finger on what specific wood would work.
I found it but, typical of me, it's one of the more expensive varieties. It's called Ebony Black & White, and it's absolutely perfect for what I want. It has a *built-in* aged and weathered look that you know isn't really old - exactly the point of this whole project. I am purposely designing Schism to look like the old, buggy-style, horseless carriages, but *rendered* with modern materials and techniques. http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/271.jpg Wait'll you see what I do with a few hundred bucks worth of this stuff! :lostmarbles: |
Snipped the corners of the cowl to fit over the front cage tubes, snipped those dumb doors out, and started gluing the ribs and stringers together. There is a LOT of work left to do, before we can begin skinning it with fabric.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/272.jpg http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/273.jpg http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/274.jpg http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/275.jpg I have a small dip to fix in the rear rib. I didn't use screws when I glued them, this time, and left them standing on end to dry - it slipped out of place a little before the glue set. Easy fix. I'm also making changes and adjustments as I build the roof, to make the original CAD design work in reality. CAD/CNC was to develop the basic shape, and produce the critical surfaces. The goal from here on is to make it look like an artistic swipe at a rag top, that was dipped in carbon fiber and (flat or satin) clear. |
If your name is Todd Perkins, this is how you retrofit a touchscreen, digital, gauge panel into a hyperactive, artistic, interpretation of a turn-of-the-20th-century, horseless carriage - a CAD/CNC, custom, housing. :lostmarbles:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/276.jpg The inspiration was a vintage Olds (I think) gauge panel I saw on eBay. Why buy and modify it when I can make it, right? :) Actually, I doubt it would have worked, even if the overall dimensions were close enough, because I changed the shape to conceal the digital panel. This is will mount to the steering column, with a bracket that extends up from it. There is also a lot of detail left to add in face panel, around the touchscreen. A momentary switch, and probably a couple idiot lights, go on either side of it, and I will add some organic curves, and recess the screen a bit. I want a removable, bubbled, old-TV-style, glass cover for the touchscreen. :D |
I've been working on the pedal assembly. I'll be moving around working on different areas to make sure that I don't miss anything, or underestimate anything, in pursuit of this $500 plan. I needed to know for sure that the pedals would work with the master cylinders relocated up front. I also decided, while I was in that area, to see if the dual-function throttle pedal idea was going to work; even though I won't have electric power right away.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/277.jpg http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/278.jpg Yup and yup! :thumbsup: I have a lot of work to do to adjust the height and spacing of the pedals, but I can't really do that until the seats are actually in place and the floorboard is in. In this tight space, driver position means everything for exactly where components are located, as there's almost no such thing as repositioning one's self. Making adjustments is a simple matter of bending and/or cutting and welding the levers. The brake and clutch pedals also have a lot of adjustment in position with the push rods - they're actually at the end of their adjustments, back about an inch too far, in these pics. I am going to lower the throttle pedal. The stirrup is supposed to be just off the floor. The reason it's so high here is I changed the design. It was supposed to be longer, but when I started working out the design for it I realized that if the pivot point was too high on my foot the motion was unnatural. The original design had the pivot point in the ball of the foot, but we actually pivot at the ankle. Hold your leg straight out, toes pointed up, and put your heel on a thin edge, then point your toes forward - natural motion. Now, point your toes up and put the arch of your foot on the edge, and point your toes forward, rocking around that edge - unnatural; you have to actually lift the heel off your foot, and you should feel muscles working that didn't the first time. I actually want a tiny bit of resistance, so that summoning the electric drive requires a purposed effort. If the pivot was all the way at the bottom it would be too easy to ride around draining the batteries, with the electric drive working when it shouldn't be - like a highway jaunt, where your muscles tend to get a little fatigued and mind a little lazy. I worked pretty much blindly, off my new design and instinct, making patterns, cutting, forming, grinding, welding, and grinding, steel, all day yesterday (still have more grinding to do...:rolleyes: ). I didn't stop until it was in the car - then I walked away from it. Today, I contorted myself under the fragile foam roof framework, and into position and put my foot in the stirrup. First impression, it's surprising how natural the stirrup feels. Secondly, the pivot point is perfect. :) I had to try to hold the unbolted assembly still but both motions are very natural. The only stress on my body was from being doubled over trying to hold the assembly while working the pedal. I think after a couple hundred miles this will be completely intuitive, and a helluva lot of fun! :D |
I finally have the pedal assembly far enough along to move on to the dash bar. I lowered the throttle pedal (cut-weld-grind), adjusted the spacing on the clutch and brake pedals (hammerformed), and shortened the push rods, so the brake and clutch pedals are pretty much in place now. I have to get an 8mm die to thread the clutch rod a little deeper, and need to buy or fabricate a new push rod for the brake, with a high-misalignment pivot ball - it works but has a little bind in it where the current ball hits its limit. The clutch pedal is a little under an inch from the firewall at the end of its travel, and the brake will be about the same. I still need to finish grinding the welds on the stirrup then, someday, invest countless hours to grind all these parts into artwork. :bang: :lol:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/279.jpg http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/280.jpg I contorted into position and took them for a test drive again, and it's really nice now. Narrow driving shoes will be mandatory for when things get serious. My Nike sneakers' wide soles require a little thought and effort to hit one pedal at a time, but comfort and practicality are not Schism's forte. Next I start on the dash bar, to set the stage for the steering. If Kez is able to make it in tomorrow, to finish the right side cage front bar, I will get started on the dash bar. If not, I will finish the front bar, and hopefully get to the dash bar by the weekend. |
Moving forward to the dash bar and steering, I stuck the Honda steering column in the car to get an idea of how it's going to fit and mount. It's stripped down to just the steel underpinnings, and is being used to capitalize on Honda's height adjustment mechanism, which I always liked.
It became painfully obvious, really quickly, that the 13.5" steering wheel just wasn't going to work. In fact, I don't even think a 12" wheel would fit, so I am not going to waste my time making a mock-up, or money buying one. I did some parts shuffling, and swapped the 13.5" wheel into the Model E, and it's little 10" wheel to Schism. The funny thing is I purchased the 10" for just this reason - in the initial mock-ups of that car I knew I couldn't fit anything larger. Now, Model E has grown, and Schism has shrunk and the wheels needed to be swapped. That was a purposed thing. I have purposely been removing as much of "me" from the Model E as possible, over the last year, and that 10" wheel was 100% Todd. http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/281.jpg http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/282.jpg With that wheel, I am also reclaiming my chunk of Maple burl, and resuming the process of making that steering wheel. It's actually going to be even better on Schism, because I am not trying to incorporate hidden control buttons in it. I have a perfect little piece of 6061 bar stock to carve a hub, will machine spokes on the ShopBot, and get Curt to TIG it all together for me. The hub is going to be a ball and stem to match the shifter, e-brake handle, and planned switch knobs. I just have to come up with a plan to make the Maple burl work with the Ebony Black & White accents I have. I'm thinking Ebony B&W inlays in the burled rim, and then maybe some burl inlays in the Ebony pieces that will follow, but I'm not set on anything yet. More on the rim and hub coming. The CAD madness is about to happen, and I will resume machining the burl rim soon, but the actual hub, spokes, and weld-up, may be a little further down the road. I am mainly trying to lay the ground work, so I can set the steering column accordingly. I also want the rim to be cut and settled long before the rest of the wheel is finalized and cut, so I can make any necessary adjustments to suit how it chooses to end up. An update on that process, for this site: the block is machined a little and allowed to settle. The newly exposed wood gets time to acclimate itself to the environment, re-balancing the moisture content. If it's done correctly, it won't fracture into a bunch of worthless scrap wood. When the final machining has been completed, the rim will be allowed to sit for a while, in a fixture, but could actually change shape a bit. That's fine with me, because it would add to the vintage "flavor". The hub will be designed, machined, and fabricated to match the rim. Normally, over time, the rim would change shape and the support structure would prevent it from moving freely, causing the large cracks and chunking you see a lot with antique wheels. The ten-inch wheel is an absolute necessity to fit in Schism's impossibly restricted interior. I was able to contort my way in again and it feels perfect. It kind of completes the ridiculous feel of the car, from the driver's seat, and should be quite an experience with 1-1/2 turns lock to lock - can you say overgrown kart?! :lol: |
Getting the basic direction roughed in.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/283.jpg There is a lot more detail to come in the rim, where the spokes land. I have a few ideas, and haven't decided which route I'm going yet. That is where I think the Black & White Ebony inlays will be... The aluminum rim section, and spokes would be CAD/CNC, the hub would be lathe-turned, and everything would be TIG'd together. A Wilwood quick disconnect hub would be machined, for aesthetics, and welded to the base of the hub. The main point here is to develop the overall dimensions, and process I intend to follow, so I can have the steering column set to accommodate this wheel. I hope to be able to simply pop it on in place of the Grant, when it's ready. |
Back to work, machining the steering wheel rim. Machine a little, let it sit, machine a little, let it sit... Hopefully, at the end of the process, I won't have a floor full of cute little Maple Burl chunks. :lol:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/284.jpg I cut the original dash out of the body today, so I could get my dash taped in place. http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/285.jpg This old foam plug is pretty beat up but I think the original models and CAM files are locked up or lost in my coffee-saturated external hard drive. I may have to protect this with my life, and fix it up. http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/286.jpg This is all in preparation for doing the dash bar. It's cut and sectioned because parts of how it's going together might be extremely difficult/impossible to do on a bender, and because I had the old roll cage main hoop just sitting here, doing nothing, with the perfect curves in it. Chamfered and plug welded, with inserts at the joints, it should be okay. http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/287.jpg I was inside again, for another "test drive". It is soooo tight in there! Making everything clear and work is going to be one helluva challenge, but I think I'm up for it. The first casualty might be the Honda steering column. That adjuster will interfere with the clutch work, as it is. I also cut the opening for the shaft in the firewall way oversize, to give myself room to experiment. I am going to give it a try before tucking my tail and stringing a plain piece of tubing through there. :D |
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