I fit the same description as you. I quit making deadlines because I never was able to meet them. However, this deadline 'must' be met.

My goal is to have the car sitting on the ground with all the suspension done, rearend setup, driveshaft ordered and installed, headers fit, trans lines made, brake lines fitted, brakes installed, steering installed, power steering lines made, ignition setup and installed, prewire the car, fuel lines installed AND motor fired. My goal is to basically have this a driving car within the next three weeks. That goal is really not a tall order if I can get through all these snags. I'm only doing mock up right now to get everything to fit before anything is painted/finished.

If I can meet my goal, then take it all back apart and prep the car for paint and paint it.

As far as people around here that have more experience to deal with the rearend, I already tried that route after deciding I was not able to get the yoke to slide down far enough. I dropped it all off to a guy I know that owns a speed shop. I get a call from him the next day telling me the yoke is a 10 bolt yoke. I never took any measurements from it, so I asked him, over the phone, to measure the seal area of the yoke. The measurement he got was for the 12 bolt rearend and not a 10 bolt, as the 10 bolt has a larger diameter yoke in the seal area. I spoke with Moser, today, and we decided I send the yoke back along with the pinion this time. I should have sent the pinion to them in the first place, but oh well. Hopefully they can get it taken care of the problem for me this time.

Another thing that does not fit...oil pressure sending unit:lol: The sending unit that came with the VHX gauges is too fat. It hits the intake right at the block. I need to source an adapter that will lift the sender further off the block.

That is all I have tried to fit at this point. I need to get back out to the garage, but am worried something else may not fit:willy:

Get the hell away from the keyboard and check in later tonight with a progress report.;)

I spoke to the folks at Dynatech. They are going over my problem, along with my pictures, to see if they can find a solution. I certainly hope they can come up with something. I hate to not use their header as it is an extremely well made product. I'm definitely not giving up my DSE steering box.

Gotta go take the rearend apart and get the pinion and yoke shipped back to Moser. Looks like my day is pretty much done on the car for the moment.

Man..that blows. I'll be watching to see what happens. Hopefully the turn around will be quick and you'll be back at it soon. Is Moser taking care of the pinion and yoke?

I have some good news on the yoke. I was getting ready to package the yoke and pinion when the 2 together would not quite fit in the box. I had the yoke attached to the pinion, which was too long to fit in the box. To try to get the yoke a little further down, I pounded the yoke, while attached to the pinion, onto my work bench. As doing so, it was sliding down more than it would before. I grabbed a hammer and tapped the yoke back off the pinion and placed the pinion back into the rearend housing. I was able to get the yoke further down this time and enough to install it. So good news there, I will be able to setup my rearend and not have to send this yoke back to Moser.

That was the good news...

Here's the bad news...I do not see these headers fitting with the DSE box. These are suppose to be the redesigned headers made to fit the smaller boxes, but they don't. I received a call back from Dynatech, late yesterday, and was told the reason they are not fitting is my motor mounts I am using. I have to call BS on that. The motor mounts are not going to make any difference, whether I run the short ones or the tall ones. The pictures I posted here will show why. I am running original 302/350 stands with Prothane tall mounts. I get to deal with Dynatech some more tomorrow/later today. Only solution I see at this point is sending these back and finding a header that fits. I have to run 1 3/4" headers due to my heads having raised exhaust ports, even though the bolt pattern is in the standard location. If I were up to the challenge, I would build my own headers, but I don't have the time to deal with building a set.

Are there any differences in size between DSE's 600 steering box compared to the Lee Manufacturing 670 box?

You keep some odd hours friend.:wow:
Glad to hear the pinion and yoke are willing to play nice with you now.

I am confused about the headers. Why would they design a header to work with a smaller box? Wouldn't ones for a larger steering box (such as stock) clear? Or do they not offer the 1 3/4 primary to clear stock PS so the smaller box is their compromise?

HAHA! There's reason to that. I have gone back to school working towards a new degree, so I'm stuck on my old schedule. I take naps is all anymore.

I can't answer any of that. I was just told these headers are the redesigned header to work around the 600 series box. I believe they will clear the stock style 800 series boxes as well. I'll inquire about that today.

I really hate to not use these headers. The build quality on these are extremely nice and the price couldn't be beat. My steering is more difficult to change than the exhaust, so the easier route will be the one to change, which in this case seems to be the headers. If the Lee box is dimensionally smaller than the DSE box, then I'll switch boxes. I haven't been able to confirm that yet, though.

I'll be interested in the outcome on the headers.
I have an AGR box which I believe is dimensionally the stock box, so if that is an 800 I guess that's it. I know they offer it in an OE look without billet caps for the resto crowd.

How snug are they to the floor?.. or how much do they hang below the subframe?

I'm almost certain these headers would fit an AGR box. I would dig out my stock box and see if it fits, but I'd have to degrease it and its not worth the time to go through that for me. The headers fit great otherwise. They don't hang down anymore than the subframe. They seem to have good clearance between the floor and header. I have not installed the passenger header as I know it will fit, but if the drivers header doesn't fit then no reason to install the passenger.

I'll snap some pics of how the fit around the floor and relation to the ground and post them up for you.

Here's some pictures showing the Dynatech headers in relation to the floor pan and how low below the subframe the header goes. One thing, I do not have the transmission crossmember installed, so the engine is tilted back further than it should be. Also, the car is on jackstands

Also, I'm working on setting up my rearend. What do you all think of the pattern thus far.

That was kind of you to post the header pics. It is virtually identical to my Hooker Comps as far as apparent height but if your engine is tipped then they would likely nestle in a bit higher. I am referencing the centerpoint of the primary into the collector.

In my case 2 primaries actually go forward from plumb and then curve back to the collector at 90* or less while all 4 of yours look to be converged higher, closer to the head. It was one of those two forward sweeping primaries my pitman arm hit in my '96 crash. You cannot turn the steering far enough to duplicate that much motion.

I can't comment on the pattern for lack of experience, but I think I have seen a pattern interpretation guide/tutorial on Strange's website. I'm not sure if that is where I saw it but that is all I can offer.

I was just thinking:wow: yeah, I need to check how much the transmission needs to come up. I have a TH400 crossmember and a 4L60E transmission. I have to modify the crossmember, so that is why its not installed yet. I was thinking, though, if the transmission still needs to come up quite a bit, I may, just may, gain some clearance at the header for the steering box.

My gear pattern looks good on the coast side, but the drive side I'm not crazy about. I've setup rearends in the past, but it has been a while.

Back to garage and check on that crossmember

So, since the teeth are shaped a little like a sharks tooth can you tell the uninitiated like me which side is which?
I'd call one the round side which would be the head and the other less than 90* angle side would be the tail. Which is drive and which is coast?
One side has a small round pattern and the other looks to be the full face wearing. I have a rear end out right now too that I could at least clean/paint the teeth on out of curiosity and see what sort of pattern it has.

It would seem to me the side toward the "tail" would be the drive side because the teeth woul dbe more engaged that way but I am just speculating.

The steering box still does not fit:(

The concave side of the gear is the coast side and the convex side is the drive side of the gear

Huh. Well, not the first time I was ever wrong and probably not the last.:D

Don't feel bad. At glance, that is the way it would appear to be, but its actually the opposite.

I've been on the phone, off and on all day, with Dynatech. So far, no solution. It's not looking good at this point. They asked me to measure my heads from side to side. I got 18 5/8" from passenger side head, at the header flange, to the drivers side head, at the header flange. They told me, they built the headers based on 18", which is stock head size.

If anyone out there reading this and has aftermarket aluminum heads, non-Edelbrock, can you please measure from the passenger side head to the drivers side head and see what measurement you get? This is with a SBC.

Hey I just measured my 327 w/AFR heads and came up with a measurement of 18 3/8 inches, hope that helps!

Dynatech told me they built the revised header off of the stock heads, which according to them, measured 18". They said I was the only one that has had interference problems with the revised header hitting the 600 series box.

I'm wondering, who would buy a $600+ steering box and $500 headers and use stock cast iron heads?

Mine is the OE 327 sbc block with earlier camelbacks, 18 1/4" at the head faces, not including gaskets or measuring to the header flange.

I'm not so sure a more stock set of iron heads would or could be any narrower but you make a good point. Most would have gone aftermarket aluminum before all that.

Besides that, I thought the smaller 600 series boxess were supposed to be a clearance advantage? WTH?!

If your's measures 18 1/4", then how did they get 18"? I'll have to dig further into that with them Monday. Something they are telling me is not adding up, but I suspect my head distance is the main culprit.

Yeah, you would think the 600 box would give more clearance being its a smaller box. I don't know what Dynatech has done or is not doing. I'm going to try one more thing, which they suggested. I'm going to unbolt the drivers motor mount and lift the motor a few inches and try to bolt the box in and the header and then slowly lower the motor back down, hoping there won't be any clearance issues. Although, I know there will be. If they aren't able to come up with a solution, then it looks as though I will building a set of headers myself:mad:

I did some more checking and there is no reason for me to try and lift the drivers side of my engine to try and install the DSE box along with the Dynatech headers. I only have a fingers amount of clearance with the transmission to the transmission tunnel.

I was over on camaros.net and found where someone else was having this same issue, but with the older designed header. Dynatech revised the header and swapped headers with this particular poster giving them the revised header. They still had slight interference, but was able to mount both together.

I suspect a distance of 3/4" to 1" of clearance would be needed for me to clear the header and the DSE box. That's too much to try and gain in dimpling the tube. The tube would be nearly collapsed at that point. I'm out of ideas with these headers and do not see how Dynatech is going to be able to make this happen. Looks like I'm gonna have to try and pull a rabbit out of the hat and make a freaking set of headers:mad:

This weekend I have been out working on the car trying to get some stuff done. I gave up on my header issue for the moment due to the fact Dynatech headers do not fit my setup. I moved on to other issues like modifying the TH400 crossmember to fit my 4L60E trans. I cut the mount off to reposition it like I was told I could do. Well, that is a no go. I would have to cut the crossmember completely in half, doing some major modifcation to make it work. I don't want to do that because of the aesthetics of how it would look afterwards. I'll have to hunt for a already made crossmember to satisfy me. I wonder if one would bolt directly on with my luck?

Next, I was checking my front brake setup to see if it will fit. My rotor hats are too deep, so I get on Wilwoods site to see if I can get a shallower hat. Guess what? No go! Now, I have to scrap my front brake setup and order a bolt-on kit from Wilwood. I'm looking at the FN6LR front brake kit for my car.

To sum up my weekend, yesterday cost me around $200+ for a new crossmember that will bolt up and today cost me $1500+ for new front brakes.

Working on this car is costing more money then not working on it.

Gotta love it:woot:

Sounds like we got luck in common ha!

Did you look into G-Force Crossmembers? They are nice and I y
Think they have one for that setup.

If it weren't for bad luck, we wouldn't have any luck at all:cheers:

I looked at that cross member, but it looks quite hefty. I wonder what it weighs?

I'm starting to get pissed with Dynatech. They are basically blowing me off at this point. I'm not getting any communication from them now and their last communication was saying it was the motor mounts. We, both, came to the conclusion that motor mounts had nothing to do with why these aren't fitting.

I measured between the motor and steering box and got just over 2 inches between the two. They sent me a picture which appears to show a lot more clearance than 2 inches.

Anyone out there with a SBC, can I get a measurement from you all please?

I need to know how tall your engine pedestal with the motor mount is. Measure from the frame itself to the mounting pad on the motor. Also, tell me what stands and mounts you are using please. Thanks!

I'm showing mine driver's side and passenger side respectively.

I am using 69 Camaro GM 302/350 engine pedestals along with Prothane tall poly mounts.

Also, if you happen to have a DSE steering box, could you possibly measure the distance from the box to the head. I listed a picture showing the measurement I'm getting.

Thanks again everyone!

Dynatech and I have finally came to the conclusion that these headers are not going to fit my application. I do not know why these headers do not fit my application as they were specifically made to fit my application:(

Now, back to the drawing board. What headers now? I have to fit the DSE steering box and the Ridetech Truturn

good job
 

great job man...keep da pics coming:thumbsup:

Thanks boogyman:_paranoid

I had a productive Saturday. FINALLY!

I got the rear pinion angle set and the upper bar tabs tacked onto the rearend for the rear 4-link.

I managed to get the Dynatech headers to finally fit the DSE steering box as well. I had it setup for them to go back, but thought I'd give it one last go today and try to get them to fit. After researching last night for headers and only came up with custom built headers for around $2000, I found more motivation to try and make these work. They do not fit perfectly, though. I will have to dimple #5 primary tube to clear the steering box. I can live with that:thumbsup:

My longer front coil-overs came Friday, so I will get the front suspension setup early this week. I ordered a G-Force cross member and it will be here Tuesday. Providing I get the front suspension done Monday and no later than Tuesday, I will be able to put this car on the ground with its new suspension and complete drivetrain in the car.

I, also, measured for my driveshaft, so I will be ordering that Monday.

Here's some pictures for those that like the picture books instead of the books with words:P

Rear suspension at ride height:yes:

That looks awesome, congrats on the progress. Keep up the great work!

Thanks Robert. I'm stoked, to say the least. Can't even go to sleep. Getting those headers to even come close to fitting has lifted a huge weight off my shoulders as well as getting the rear suspension finally setup along with driveshaft ready to order:woot:

Lookin good mako!

Thanks Ron

Great progress :thumbsup: Keep at it you will have in done in no time.
What wheels are running? I've seen those before?

Thanks Rick. They are nothing special. They are aftermarket replica wheels. They are called the C6 Z06 Motorsports wheel.

eBay? I thinks thats where I have seen them, they look really nice. I thought of going with those at one point but then I got this crazy idea that I have to have Forumla 43 wheels :unibrow: Now I just need to find where that money is tree my kids think is in the back yard :lol:

I actually found them cheaper just buying direct from the Manufacturer. They are not a bad looking wheel. They are definitely not the wheel I want, but I'm not willing to shell out $5k for a set of wheels right now.

I tried to grow one of those money trees. The problem I found with them is I can never get the seed to germinate. Guess it takes money to make money, right:lol:

Come on their not 5k for the wheels only $4200 :lol: Yah my wheels will come a little later in the build. Unless I find another great deal like I had before but had to back out because of some uncertainty at work.