Thanks Daniel! Feel free to give me a call anytime. I keep detailed records so I'll have part numbers ready for you if you need them. :thumbsup:

I agree that looks super clean. Nice upgrades

thought I was the only guy that did stuff like that, sometimes I want to kick my own ass!

I thought re-working things 3 to 4 times before getting it right was the norm...If kicking my own ass will help me save $$$ I'm all in.:lol:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5STi4yub4xU
http://youtu.be/5STi4yub4xU

Two times has to be it for me or else it'll be my wife kicking my ass, and it'll be severe and righteous. I might join her if I can get my own foot to loop around with some decent velocity on it. Version 2.0 will be it other than fixing something that breaks or doesn't work as advertised(and you know that's gonna happen). The changes are so extensive I feel like I'm basically building the car all over again and it's honestly been a bit of a drain on me and what we're trying to accomplish in life. This remake should put the car where I originally wanted it to be when I built it(but didn't quite have all the money I needed at the time) and it'll be done and I'll enjoy the hell out of it. It's got to be that way and future $$$ has to go elsewhere.

Need your feedback!

So it's getting about that time to start gathering up the parts for my new ZL motor and send it off to Pettis Performance to have it built and dyno'd. I'm hoping the engine experts here on Lat-g(especially that bald eagle) could take a moment to review my specs and parts list and see if things check out okay. I'm including the cam specs that Comp Cams sent me.

Summary: 489 build using newer ZL1 block, shooting for around 625 to 650HP, shifting around 6300RPM, hydraulic roller cam, with about 10.3:1 compression, with multiport fuel injection. This is for high performance street car, NOT a race car. I know that I'm probably losing about 15-20HP by going with the cnc'd Eddy heads instead of AFRs, but the Eddy's leave the exhaust port in its original location which allows me to use my current headers instead of having to spend $2K on new Lemon's headers. I'm fine with that slight loss in HP. I'm upgrading the springs and retainers on the heads to avoid valve float.

High-level numbers:
http://www.69camaroproject.com/Share...ssionRatio.jpg

What Comp Cam's wrote and spec'd out for me(I probably need a Gen IV core and not a Gen VI core, but the specs are the important part here):

"Christopher looks like an awesome set up. Here is what I am looking at. This is a custom grind on the gen VI step nose core. This will get you the power that you are looking for as well as enough vacuum to be tuner friendly with the holley efi. "
http://www.69camaroproject.com/Share...0/CamSpecs.jpg

Major Components list:
http://www.69camaroproject.com/Share...ngineParts.jpg

Thanks in advance for your feedback. :thumbsup:

This is getting exciting! :D I'd definitely consider a smaller cylinder head. It seems the 295-305 range are best for a street car from all the articles I've read over the last few years. I'd definitely have a sit down with Jason and go over your ideals and goals before you start buying to many parts. I found his prices to beat Jeg's and Summit.

I'd talk to Chris Straub about what you are doing and let him spec a cam or at least discuss your combo.

I agree with Todd that a 290-310cc head is much better suited to this size build based on everything I've read. I've had a few tell me the same thing. I already had the Dart 325 heads so I'm probably gonna have to use them. I'm considering moving to a 540 setup though to make the heads work. The AFR 290cc CNC head is pretty nice they say. Ovals in general might work out better for street setup.

Your build is similar to what I have planned so I'll be watching closely. :lateral:

I like those cam specs for what you are going to do (NOT a race car). But agree with the others and would go with a smaller head.

I started reading this and thought the Payback thread was gone and closed. WTF.

:lol:

Thanks for chiming in fellas. Hmmmm...the Eddy heads are oval ports and are recommended for that cubic inch range. Didn't think they'd be too much for this scenario. I'll be sure to talk with Jason at Pettis before we do the build. Thanks for bringing that to my attention! Can't wait to get this mutha built.

:lol: Sorry, gotta represent the aluminum BBC crew. Todd lives on!

OMG! I thought you were a friggin' school girl there for a minute....:lol:

OMG Like .... Totally :D

Chris, Take a look at the Brodix race rites. I'm seeing some great numbers from them and they keep the exhaust is the stock position as well. Spend some time over at Team Chevelle in the performance section and you'll get lots of great info on BBC builds. Glad to see another car keeping it "old school".

My buddy Pierre just had a 496 built with Brodix Race Rites.... They're nice heads --- but the should be COMPLETELY disassembled and every spec checked. Actually anything you buy like this should be.... it's amazing what you'll find.

Nice choice an AL big block:thumbsup:

I'd pick the heads first and then spec the cam. If you want the most out of it

**for it's intended purpose street car under 6500rpm hydro roller**

you should have your head flow #s and pick the cam based on that.

If Pettis is your guy I'd ask him for an opinion on the best head for your use and then ask him to spec a cam based on that head and the rest of your combo. JMO:D

We are talking about Jason Pettis. He measures EVERYTHING. Nothing will be untouched. His blue print is ridiculous. My dream job is still sweeping floors over there.:D

I just recieved this email tonight from the new owner of my car:

"The engine, trans, handling are just killer. I can't get enough of the sound of the big block. You were right, Pettis did an amazing job."

All the more reason to let him pick the heads and spec the cam.:D

Couldn't agree more....:cheers:

Thanks gentlemen for the feedback. I'll definitely discuss this with Jason at Pettis before making the purchase on the heads and cam. I didn't the think the oval port Eddys with 308cc(lh)/325cc(rh) intake runner volumes would be too big. I guess they're borderline. I gave the head specs to Comp Cams for them to properly spec out that cam in the screenshot, so at least I had that part of the process correct. Oh well, Jason will guide me in the right direction when I spec out the engine with him and get an estimate. :thumbsup:

Where is this motor build at?

Is DG running this project also?

:cheers:

:lol: I've been accumulating a lot of parts. It's a long, pricey list so it's just been taking a while. Almost done and can then hand it over to Jason at Pettis. Money and time has been a little short during the holidays. Also been running all the wiring for the Holley HP EFI and mounting the ECU. Also did some massaging/expansion of the trans tunnel to prep for the arrival of my T56 Magnum next week. I'll take a bunch of photos in the next few weeks as the engine heads off to Pettis and I do some test fitting of some things. Still on schedule to have it all put together in late March and hopefully on the street in early April. :cheers:

Even if you don't get it together until March 2014... you should still be able to be on the road before DG, Rob, and Ron.:thumbsup:

My Tremec T56 Magnum (LS, close-ratio) arrived today via Summit Racing. I'll be taking some pictures shortly of the various components that'll go along with it. It's very interesting that Tremec doesn't include any documentation with this $2900 unit. No warranty card, no instructions for fluids, adjusting the shifter location, nothing. I just called them and they admitted to that and said they'd try to locate something and email it to me. If I get something, I'll post it. If anybody has any documentation like this, please let me know. Thanks. :thumbsup:

Stick the long pointy thing in the back of the motor - fill it with tranny fluid til it runs out the side dumaflodgie - the handle thingy goes on top - and that long shaft doohickey goes in the back.:unibrow:


That what you're looking for??

Dang Greg. Internationally licensed pyro, love boat captain, world traveler and now...technical writer! Who'd a thunk it?

Smart ass. :lol: A little info on the shifter re-arrangement, adjustment on the tension springs, torque specifications, fluid capacity, etc, would be nice. Same stuff you get with an engine. Not a single f'ing thing in the crate was a little surprising. Yah, I can figure this sh_t out by searching on the net for bits and pieces here and there, but it would've been helpful to have something in the crate for $3K.

Sometimes I just can't help myself!!







TOTALLY AGREE WITH YOU. That kind of stuff drives me crazy.

Just got off the phone with Jason at Pettis Performance. Will be dropping off my ZL-1 489 shortblock assembly with him this weekend. Very excited about that.
:beavis:

Todd, you're right about Jason, he's VERY detail oriented. I'm liking that a whole lot. I know he's going to do a great job on the shortblock build out and the core assembly will be bullet proof. He estimated middle to end of February to have it back to me, which is perfect for my schedule also.

Hell yah.

http://www.69camaroproject.com/Share...lock_parts.jpg

looks alot like Christmas,that should be a killer engine,good luck with it

Love this build, so close to what im doing or want to do. What kind of HP/TQ are you hoping to get?

Jesus, Chris that is a pile of ....





GOLD! :rockin: :morepower

Nice pile of parts Chris! :thumbsup:

Regarding the T56 Mag, even Tremec doesn't has info basic info on their web site. You can download the T56 service manual here: http://www.tremec.com/literatura.php

The info manual that came with my Mag spec'd 4 qts of fluid (I'm using Mobile 1 ATF full syn), it will only take about 3.25-3.5 before it's seeping out the fill hole which is the level indicator.

I have not been impressed with the lack of docs or tech info for the trans.

Thankfully I'm very satisfied with the performance so it's not as irritating as it could be.

Looking forward to the start-up video. :cheers:

Thanks. :thumbsup: HP hopefully in the 620-640 range, maybe low 600's on TQ with a broad curve. Using a Holley HP MPFI setup up top so hopefully that'll keep it running smoothly. I'll be chassis dyno'ing it and will call on an EFI expert to help me dial it in while the car's on the dyno so I'll post those numbers eventually.

Sieg, thanks for the T-56 doc references. Much appreciated. :thumbsup: Tremec customer service said they'd try to find something and get back to me, and that Post-It note probably went in the garbage right after they hung up the phone with me. When I get around to posting pics, part numbers, feedback, etc, for the transmission assembly, I'll mention anything I found also.

I just love this pic :thumbsup:

Happy to get this collection to Jason so he can make something out of it. You should see all the friggin parts in my garage now. That's why the parts in that pic are in my living room. :lol: I'm trying to catch up with you on posting parts. Now if I can just get the hang of this trash talking thing you guys got going, I can get my post count up also. :thumbsup:

Ask for Rob, he's treated me well. :thumbsup:

I love piles of parts. I love piles of parts put together mo betta tho! :thumbsup:

Yeah hit up Rob and say something about his Betsy... I mean... Forino. That'll will bring the noise.

Hells yes...:lateral: Looking forward to the updates. Are you going to assemble the long block? Break it in on the chassis dyno?