Looks like you got it. nice set up.

Haven't had a chance to drive it........weather and kid's are crimping my style! :D Hopefully tomorrow.

Project looks great. Is this whole clutch set up from Tilton?

Thanks Wayne... look forward to updates on your build :thumbsup:

Thanks

I bought the kit complete from Hurst Driveline and it came with the Tilton master cylinder. Also, the kit had the right fitting to plug directly into the quick disconnect fitting on the GM throwout bearing. I bought their kit minus the throwout bearing.

Dale,

Got curious today about your build when I saw one of your posts in Ron's Dead Pool thread.

Enjoyed the good tech posted in this build from you and others. Impressive power #'s on that very healthy sounding LS2. Nice to see a single plane being used as well.

Some Ol Gold. :cool:

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...ps7a261b1b.jpg

Thanks Skip

That’s a great picture of Ol' Gold!

I’m really happy with the results of the engine build. Trying different combinations is the fun part. The LS7 heads are a great design, and worked well with the single plane intake.

I have the T56 Magnum trans and hydraulic clutch installed now… It was a much bigger job than I expected. Using the ZR1 twin disc clutch complicated things a bit. I took a bunch of pictures along the way and will do an update soon.

Glad to see the Muncie go…

:cheers:

Over the past few weeks I have been working on installing the new T56 Magnum transmission and hydraulic clutch kit.

My engine is set back close to the firewall and angled down 2.5 degrees. The car has solid aluminum stock height body bushings. I ended up having to cut a large section out of the tunnel to fit the transmission.


Here is a shot from underneath. First, I mounted the bell housing and spacer on the back of the engine to get an idea of where to cut the tunnel.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps39bb6a29.jpg


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps97f36a45.jpg



I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out the best way to cut the tunnel to minimize the fabrication required later on.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...pse367d2f5.jpg


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9f080ac9.jpg


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps46ebd64b.jpg



Next, I got the transmission prepped to go in. I mounted the remote bleeder, and used a tubing bender to make adjustments to the hard plumbing for the hydraulic throw out bearing to make sure it would tuck up in the tunnel.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psac468724.jpg


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1cbff3d7.jpg



Next, I checked the run out on the bell housing to make sure it was within spec. The bell housing was within just a few thousands of an inch.


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps88baf332.jpg



Now it was time for the install. First I slid the transmission under the car. Next...from inside the car I lifted the transmission up on the jack. This method worked well. The T56 is quite a bit heavier than the old Muncie trans. I could bench press the old Muncie but not the T56.


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps84bdec13.jpg


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0402b765.jpg


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7b12623b.jpg


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9d103296.jpg


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7de254ed.jpg



Next I mounted up the new crossmember and transmission mount pad. When I check the angle of the engine it was exactly 2.5 degrees.


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...pse8ce43c6.jpg


Next up will be the installation of the hydraulic clutch... I learned some new information about the plumbing fittings required for the ZR1 hydraulic throw out bearing.

:cheers:

You've been having some kind of fun! That tunnel cut line looks familiar. Make sure you end up with enough clearance in the bell and tunnel to accommodate the torque twist of the motor and trans in your mounts. My engine is solid mounted and under-powered unlike yours. I didn't want to hear those shift plate bolts contacting the top of the tunnel! :thumbsup:

Looks good Dale!


I agree with Sieg -- 'cause it's about the same amount of fab work to give yourself some breathing room on that tranny.

The shot of Old Gold is awesome! Love that car. You have to hear it and see it run to understand just how well this car functions. It's just so "solid". It leaves hard and pulls hard and it never bogs - burbles - or skips a beat. Hard to describe really... until you witness it.

Dale -- if you need some sheetmetal fab help... you might contact Tim Bruning - he's there on your side of the river and has a fantastic home shop as well as mad skills.

PM or email me if you want his contact info. His son posts under TJBRUNING
You should get to know him regardless of whether or not you need his help. :thumbsup:

Thanks Sieg!

Good point... I just want to do this once.

When I put the cross member in I didn't have to break out the crowbar... I just gave it a hard kick and it popped in :D

Thanks Greg!

Paul drives Ol' Gold, and his dad Bob does the mechanics. It's a great family team. You're right... it rarely breaks loose, and launches like it's on rails. Those big slicks look cool to.

I sent you a PM... I am interested in contacting Tim for some possible help... Thanks :thumbsup:

Great updates Dale. :thumbsup: Thanks for continuing to share the great details and photos. I'm sure you're happy to finally see that Magnum up in there and sitting on that crossmember. Not an easy job whatsoever. I'm going to be starting that exact same job in less than 2 weeks, so I appreciate everything you've shared so far.

My "clutch fingers to block measurement" is estimated to be just slightly less than yours, and my bellhousing depth a half inch more than yours, so I'm thinking I'll need to use that ZR1 slave also which has a lower profile than a standard LS slave. I have 2 'quick' questions for you.

1. When you compressed the slave cylinder and measured from the face of it to the mounting face of the transmission, do you remember what measurement you got?

2. You mentioned the ZR1 slave has some special plumbing notes. Is it necessary to use that hard line that comes with it? I was hoping to just plumb a soft line from my MC directly to it. Any plumbing notes you could share would be great.

I'm jealous of that jack you used. I need to find me one of those!

Thanks again,
Chris

Chris, I'll lend you a hand and it's only $80!
http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html

Perfect! And that right there is why I love this forum. Thanks Sieg! The local Harbor Freight has 3 of them in stock. I'll snag one this weekend. :) Given my luck, I'll probably need it 5 times over the next 6 months. :lol:

Welcome! Things like this jack that seldom get used are what I love about Harbor Freight. Hopefully you only use it once. :thumbsup:

Thanks Chris... It felt great to finally get the T56 bolted up :thumbsup:

I did purchase the transmission jack from Harbor Freight like Sieg said. The transmission jack also works great for removing and installing the fuel tank. It’s a nice tool to have around.


Here's the answers to your questions:

1. The measurement from the face of the bell to the compressed throwout bearing was 4.280". I ended up with 0.125" clearance between the clutch fingers and the face of the compressed throwout bearing.

2. For the plumbing I ended up using the hard line that came with the GM ZR1 throwout bearing. The plumbing that goes into the throwout bearing has a special O-ring quick disconnect fitting that is retained with a clip. I’m not sure if you can substitute that with a soft line… there are no threads to screw into.

On the other end of the hard line there is a black plastic female quick disconnect fitting that accepts a male fitting with an O-ring. I ended up having a custom line made that goes from the clutch master to the female fitting.

What I found out is that there are two different style male quick disconnect fittings… one style for 2004 and older throwout bearings, and one style for 2005 and newer. The GM ZR1 throwout bearing (pn: 24237569) takes the 2005 and newer fitting. Of course the first one I bought didn’t fit and that’s how I found out!

I ended up buying a custom line from Mcleod Racing. There is a technical sales guy there named “Billy” and he was very helpful. If you talk to him he will set you up. I’m due to receive the line tomorrow (Friday) and I will post up a picture of the set up. Hopefully everything will fit this time around.


Here is a shot of the ZR1 throwout bearing with the hard plumbing and quick disconnect fitting

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps86e50fcc.jpg


Here is a shot of the male quick disconnect fitting that didn't fit. It looks like it would fit but was 0.030" to big!

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psc9ec994b.jpg



I should receive the new line from Mcleod tomorrow. I'll post a picture if I get it.
Hopefully this info will save you a little grief.

:cheers:

I bought same coupling a while back from them , just had to get crimped once positioned. Don't know if your running a remote bleeder line but it would save you a ton of headaches if you do. Can find them all over eBay

Just finished reading your thread and you've done some really nice work. I guess I better get my butt in gear and transfer my posts over to here from PT on my project.

It's amazing just how many guys there are with some really awesome builds around the PNW area. Hopefully there will be some local events coming up where I can see these super cool rides and meet some of you locals. It seems like the events are South but if/when we see some good weather I'm hoping there are some posts for local events. I'd really like to see your car and some others before I embark on my LS conversion.

Yes you should get your build over here! :thumbsup:

I've noticed Lat-g is starting to get a collection of PNWet members, maybe a trackday at The Ridge or Oregon Raceway? Indoor kart event tied in with the PDX Roadster Show, or?

Thanks Frank… I did end up installing a 4ft remote bleeder line.

Thanks Todd

Definitely post up your project here...

That would be great to meet up with some of the PNW & Vancouver B.C. guys in the near future. We’ll have to work on that one and find a show somewhere mid way :thumbsup:


Sieg… Count me in, I would like to meet some of my fellow PNWet neighbors! :sieg:

A trackday at the Ridge or Oregon Raceway would be great! :thumbsup:
:drive:

Tunnel mods
 

I ended up raising the tunnel 7/8” in the back and 1-1/4” in the front. After installing the transmission there is about ¾” plus clearance all around between the transmission and the tunnel. This should be enough to prevent rubbing, and allow for some airflow.


First I fabricated the tunnel and added a gusset where the console mounts and where the shifter boot mounts.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...pseb77444d.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps24ac27b8.jpg


Next I secured the weldment to the tunnel with sheet metal screws to hold everything in place for welding.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps34cc114c.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0a926bc6.jpg


Next I welded the tunnel all around from underneath the car :welder: ...not a fun job!

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psa7e4ac35.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4da51f10.jpg


Next two pics show penetration from the weld underneath.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psaae6ba56.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps96e431aa.jpg


Then I welded the tunnel all around from inside the car, and cleaned up the welds with a little sanding.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psa0dbc34b.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps699d604d.jpg


Next I painted the tunnel and re-installed the transmission

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps48aca742.jpg

Tunnel mods con't
 

When I made the tunnel weldment... I kept it narrow at the top so the console would drop over the top and fit back in the original location. I did not want the console to sit up any higher than stock.

Since the tunnel went up 1-1/4" in the front I had to modify the mounting bracket on the console. I removed the metal bracket (part with the studs) and cut it down 1-1/4"... welded... then re-installed.

These pictures shows the underside of the console after modifications.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8febee7e.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psc41766a1.jpg



Next I installed the console... The console now sits at the same elevation as original location before the tunnel mods.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps16da3c5a.jpg



Here is a shot of the shifter I bought from Hurst that came with the T56 trans kit.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1d3ce06e.jpg


I made some modifications to the shifter would so it would be in the exact position that would be comfortable for shifting while strapped in.... I didn't want to have to reach for the shifter. I got the tip on modifying the shifter from Stielows "Pro Touring" build book (page 77).

On a side note... I met Mark Stielow at the SEMA show last fall at Hod Rod Alley in the Optima booth. Mark answered my rookie questions and helped me spec out gear ratios for my transmission and rear axle before I made the trans purchase... he also and gave me a copy his book. It was great to meet him... a very good guy :thumbsup:


I cut the mounting pad off the shift lever

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psd14ff35d.jpg


Shift lever tack welded in new position for test fit in the car

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9283cf7a.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psba89023c.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psfd330887.jpg


Modified shift lever completed.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psd84d4b8f.jpg


Shift lever installed in car. The position of the shifter felt just right.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3b36b424.jpg


My daughter and grandson came over to visit while I was working on the car. He will be spoiled by grandpa :yes:

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6cab8b66.jpg



Thanks to Tim Bruning for coming over to my house and giving me some good advice on how to properly modify the tunnel :thumbsup:... Turns out that we are practically neighbors.

Tim has a beautiful 1970 Dodge Challenger project that I was fortunate to see first hand.... absolutely amazing build :bow:

Thanks Tim


Next up will be the hydraulic clutch install. The hydraulic clutch install is completed now and it has a great feel compared to the mechanical Z-bar set up... less pedal effort and better feel.

NICE WORK DALE!!

Looks great!

Over-achiever!

Nicely done Dale. :thumbsup:

Driveline and safety loop
 

I installed the shortened driveline with the new yoke, and a home-made driveline safety loop after the trans was installed. I think it's a good idea to run a loop just in case.

The home-made driveline loop bolts up into the tunnel with 4 bolts and tucks up out of the way.


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6faa86e9.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psbd88f125.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps884595d3.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psf64add94.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8ae04ac3.jpg


Thanks guys!

I don't know if it's over achieving or just keeping busy while it's raining. One benefit of the rain I guess.

Thanks Greg for putting me in touch with Tim… good call... he was a big help. I enjoyed visiting with him.

Good idea on the shifter. Priceless pic of the grandson in the seat. :thumbsup: One day he'll see that pic and be amazed at when he was a baby sitting in the seat of the car that grandad will give him.

Hydraulic clutch install
 

Converting from the original mechanical Z-Bar clutch linkage on the Camaro to the hydraulic clutch set up turned out to be quite a bit more work than I expected. It seems like it would be easy, but it required a lot of work up under the dash in hard to reach areas... It was difficult to find the correct fittings for the plumbing... and it took quite a bit of time to gather up the right combination of parts to get the correct spacing between the clutch fingers and the hydraulic throwout bearing.
:hairpullout:

I purchased the hydraulic clutch conversion kit from Hurst that had all of the components. I bought their complete kit minus the throwout bearing. I already had a GM ZR1 hydraulic throwout bearing that came with the ZR1 twin disc clutch kit I bought from Katech.

Here is a shot of the complete kit. The kit came with an aluminum billet mounting bracket, a Tilton master cylinder, remote reservoir, and an adjustable length push rod, and hydraulic line.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0cb54504.jpg


Here is the GM ZR1 throwout bearing that came with the clutch kit from Katech. It turned out to be difficult to find a hydraulic line with the correct fitting to plug into the quick disconnect fitting on ZR1 throwout bearing (black plastic piece). I bought two different lines and neither one fit. I ended up cutting off the quick disconnect fitting and converting to a 4AN male fitting. A local hose vendor silver soldered on the AN fitting.

These are the two hoses I bought that didn't fit... one was to big and one was to small

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps52edf3b2.jpg


This is a picture of the old fitting cut off and the new 4AN fitting silver soldered on

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psc55bc9b9.jpg


First step on the install was to pull the brake master cylinder and install the clutch master cylinder and bracket

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6e954a34.jpg


Next I pulled the clutch pedal out of the car so I could drill a hole for the clutch pushrod clevis pin. The hole has to be in the exact right position so the rod doesn't bind up when you push the clutch in. The kit had instructions with dimensions of where to put the hole.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps68b7b2ad.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps75a758ac.jpg



Next I made an adjustable hard stop for the clutch pedal. The hard stop is required so you don't damage the clutch master cylinder. From my understanding you don't want the plunger piston to act as a stop for the clutch pedal... this can damage the internals. Hurst recommended a hardstop be installed behind the clutch pedal.

The hard stop I made started out as a piece of 1" square tubing, two 3/8 nuts, 3/8 bolt, and a washer.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps858be718.jpg


Clutch hard stop installed on the firewall

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psacd16e69.jpg


This is a shot of the clutch arm bottomed out on the stop. I set the stop height so the clutch pedal bottomed out on the stop just before the end of the stroke on the clutch master cylinder pushrod.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps87249451.jpg


Then I installed the remote reservoir for the clutch master cylinder and then re-installed the brake master cylinder.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...pse6b0ca04.jpg


Finally.. I made the connection from the throwout bearing to the clutch master cylinder.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3855f9d7.jpg


Now that the job is done I'm really glad I converted from mechanical to hydraulic clutch. I wasn't sure if was a good move or not. The clutch pedal effort is less now and it has a great feel! I have the ZR1 clutch with the heavier springs (20% more grip) and the clutch takes very little effort to depress. Also, with the hard stop and adjustable plunger, I was able to fine tune the position of where the clutch begins to engage. Another plus is there is more clearance around the headers... no more pivot arms and links.

That's it for the clutch install... Hope this helps for anyone thinking about converting.



While the car is up on the jack stands I plan to change the shocks from Bilstein to the new Hotchkis Tuned Fox shocks... and change the front upper ball joints to Proforged 1/2" taller than stock ball joints.


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psa715d01d.jpg


Also I picked up some new valve covers.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psd9a519f4.jpg


:cheers:

Thanks, he's my first grandson... he looked pretty happy in that seat :thumbsup:

Great build and write up :thumbsup: Keep it coming

X2.

This is textbook stuff...well done Dale. :thumbsup:

Wow!!!! This is an awesome build thread.I may have learned something from it.I was wanting to use a ZR1 clutch set up on my next build.Thank's for the great info.:thankyou: :thankyou:

Great write up Dale........and exceptional work! :thumbsup:

Thanks guys... much appreciated :thankyou:

Coolwelder... I ran the ZR1 twin disc clutch for a few months last year with my Muncie before doing the T56 Mag swap. I can tell you that it is absolutely the best clutch I've had yet... and I've tried quite a few... you won't be disappointed.

Dale - I've been amazed at how clean and articulate your thread is. The caliber and detail of information could be considered the epitome of free forum knowledge. Next to zero hijacks and nearly void of the traditional seemingly unavoidable liter. Sadly what this thread and your garage lack is color and pizazz.

I'm going to take the liberty as a fellow enthusiast and suggest a little color and pizazz to your environment even if it means tattooing such a sanitary and educational thread that Jody is probably very proud of, as you should be. If you find it offensive I'm sure one of the under-worked over-paid mods around here will gladly snipe my post.

A garage really need a little pizazz don't you think?

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-s...snvw3Pv-XL.jpg

Then a little yard art that contrasts yet compliments nature and wildlife in a magical way.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-6...6qk2HWX-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-6...64h2Lkv-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-T...TfLHfJk-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4...4xJcmG7-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-m...mkNRBmd-XL.jpg

:thumbsup:

Too Orange ;)

Wow… great pictures Sieg! the shot of the bike next to your car is my favorite… two high performance machines. You are learning how to use that camera very quickly.

Don’t get any ideas that the orange and black machine with the two wheels has found a home in your garage :D Thanks so much for getting me set up with a bike... you're the man. Looking forward to meeting you tomorrow :thumbsup:

Some variety is good but I do have more info to post on the hydraulic clutch master cylinder set up and dry sump pump set up in the trunk.

:thankyou:

Can't wait to see those updates! Very inspirational and informative thread.

Dale, I assume you mean the oil tank in the trunk and I am curious to see what you have come up with. I am working on this now and I have not found a great spot yet for a 4 gallon+ size tank. Maybe you aren't running one that big though.

Nice job on the install and the write up.

I was at Tim's today when he called you, I wanted to come check out the car.

Yeah I worded that wrong... I used a 3.5 gallon tank that is mounted in the trunk. The tank was custom built to my specs by Stef's (see link below). I chose one of their standard dirt track tanks (part No. 4155) and had them modify it. They sent me a drawing of the stock tank and then I marked up the drawing and changed the width slightly so I could get 3.5 gallons. My tank holds 3.5 gallons when half full.

The tanks are very well made and engineered correctly with special internal baffles and plates designed to deaerate the oil. A.C. Nutter (my engine builder) helped me to size the tank. He has lots of experience with dry sump systems and he said to use a 3 to 4 gallon tank minimum if it's mounted in the trunk. The advantage to running larger tanks is that the oil has more time to deareate before getting pumped back into the engine.

I have had good results with this set up. I installed a 4 stage dry sump pump, plumbing, and tank set up in the car last August and have run the car on the street since then, and one HPDE track day last September with no oiling problems. My oil pressure is about 40 psi at idle and 60 psi when cruising.

Here are some pics of the set up

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps757b3109.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps01470492.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps97af8e0f.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps146acf3d.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps14570e95.jpg


About $140 worth of oil for one oil change!

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps152ce2cf.jpg

I'll post more on the whole set up later... I just wanted to get you the info on the tank. Here is the link to their website... I worked with Stan:
http://www.stefsperformance.net/stef...cts/sump-tanks

I started with tank #4155 under "custom dry sump tank assemblies". Stef'sdoes the custom tanks all the time... very good guys to work with. I decide to mount the tank in the trunk so I could keep things cleaner looking under the hood and I wanted to keep the battery, ECM, and fuel pump controller up in the right front of the car for easy access and better cooling.