Yeah there's really no point going with the gas engine if your already stepping up to 3/4 ton. He would have doubled his mileage. Not to mention the night and day difference in power.

Isn't it true that modern diesels suffer from short trips due to new emissions standards?

Diesels are NOT good choices for driving to the grocery store and back.... They like to WORK....so if you're not putting the boots to 'em once in awhile -- towing etc -- then why would anyone have one?

Even towing a 24' trailer and a stinky little Camaro isn't really making 'em work hard. I agree with the others when they say -- if you're not putting very many miles on a tow rig... then it's kind of a waste. The motor option alone is like 5 grand.... a guy can burn a lot of 6 MPG fuel for 5 grand... for the two or three times a year he hauls a 2,000 mile round trip. And if you're just going 500 miles round trip.... the whole conversation just doesn't pan out.


My personal hauling is Seattle - to LA - or to No Cal - or to AriDzona - or even back and forth to Sun Valley.... those are FREQUENT trips with lots of mountain climbing (almost monthly - so figure 9 trips like that per year) so a diesel is a must...

Do the math -- a gas truck gets 6 mpg -- a diesel will get 10 or 12.... Diesel costs more than regular and the difference will take forever to use up the cost of the diesel motor. Not to mention the resale value you'll get back for the diesel.... but a guy really has to think about the true costs for the amount of time spent using it correctly.

They do make a better 1500 and its called the mighty max package. It has the 6.2l engine with the 6 speed and the bigger rear axle. My 1500 would pull my Camaro up the Grapevine as fast as I want to go. I let off at 85mph the max my old f450 would go one time. It really no difference with an enclosed. The problem with the 2500 with the gas engine is that is the same engine in the 1500. So it gets worse mileage then a 1500. To me it's either a 1500 or the Duramax 2500. The gas powered 2500 is a waste of time. My old dually would be more stable then my 1500 in crosswinds or passing traffic. But my 1500 gets 11mpg towing and my f450 got 8mpg empty or loaded. My Freightliner gets 7mpg.

So ---- remember the old horse power wars??? The ratings were always "fudged" by the OEMS picking the RPM's they used to show HP.... we know now that those numbers were mostly marketing BS or a way to trip up the insurance companies....


Now here's the latest OEM fudge factor.... "the tow ratings"



The 5.3-liter V8 Crew Cab 4x4 we're sitting in can tow 9,600 pounds thanks to optional zero-cost 3.42 axles. An optional Max Trailering package with 3.73 axles and stiffer leaf springs will boost that to 11,200 pounds: The 11,500-pound advertised maximum tow rating requires the 4x2 Double Cab configuration. Add the mighty 6.2-liter V8 and it nudges to 12,000 pounds.

Of course GMC, like Chevrolet, has decided to ignore the new SAE tow rating procedure that would make these numbers relevant to the competition. As it stands, the ratings are only useful for comparison within the GM family.

I bought a used Yukon XL 2500 to use for towing and sold my newish Duramax dually. We might tow to a show 2-3 times a year. Never more than 6-8 hours one way, usually less. The dually was very nice and would tow like a dream but we never used it for anything. Too big and too much coin tied up just sitting. The Yukon is a lot more useful for everyday stuff and even though as Rodger pointed out it only has the 6.0l gas burner, I've programmed and exhausted it up to respectable performance. Plus it has 3/4 ton chassis and brakes and the 4l80E with all the extra coolers and cooling. I can load all the gear (chairs, coolers, canopy) inside and not have to worry about that stuff being exposed in the open bed.

It also has the Quadrasteer. If you've never driven one, they are a hoot! It makes a lousy trailer backer like me look talented!:excited:



Jeff-

I hear you but try to find one in the used market. Three years ago, I couldn't find one.

My Ram 2500 diesel gets an avg 22-24 mpg.... When I tow my trailer with a car in it.... Around 14-16....

If you are towing hard/heavy every day, a diesel is for you, if not, a gas will do. I choose a gas engine when I was looking for a new truck. It will tow anything I want. It is not my daily driver so gas is not a big issue. And believe me, the maintenance on a gas truck is much cheaper. And the cost of a diesel will buy a lot of gas! I am sure this will start a war, just putting out there that gas engines will tow big items with ease as well.

Thanks for the replies. I will be looking for an open trailer since I dont have a giant truck.

Are you hand calculating that or is that off the overhead console. I have an 06 2500 with exhaust tunner and intake work and only get 15-16 around town and 9-10 towing on flat ground with a 24 ft enclosed. The overhead say the numbers you are a talking about but that computer is way off.

I bought a used trailer today after looking for about 6 months. Has some things on it i didn't want and things I wanted and didn't get but when your buying used and you don't live on the east coast sometimes you've got to settle. Perfect timing as my buddy in San Diego had to drive to Stockton for work so he picked it up for me near LA and I'm going to meet him there and get it. Saves me a few road hours, just in time for me to take my car to the upholstery shop next week. Gettin' it done just in time for winter:whistling:

Here's the link
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/rvs/4084956941.html

Nice Lenie!!


One "hint" --- don't put the spare in the floor box..... trust me on this one! Get a wall mount and put it near the rear door - up high out of the way... when you need it it's right there. Use the floor box for spare chains and stuff like that. If you need the spare and it's in the floor UNDER THE CAR - guess what you get to do first? That's right -- move the car... wrestle the tire out -- and then put the car back... and re-strap it. F that! I've been there and done that!

Greg, you also mentioned something about changing flat tires by backing/pulling the trailer up on a wedge block, easier than a jack, do you still have that link where I can go buy one? Thanks

Here it is on Amazon --- but of course Poulsbo RV would have them or other similar trailer dealer.


http://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Tandem...s=trailer+ramp

This ramp is pretty slick. I was going to buy one but I opted made my own using a 6X6 I had lying around. Just did an angle cut and works like a champ.

I just use two parking chocks. Pull up on them.
I still laugh when I see guys taking the time to pull out their bottle jacks.

It really depends on where the belly door is, mine is in the left front corner of the floor and no where near being under the car.

Nice find Lenie.

Thanks

Nice trailer Lenie Good luck with it.

Anybody use or have thoughts about the "anti-sway" or "load stabilizer" bars that I've seen used? Some are pretty simple, some very complex. There's even a single sided attachment targeted specifically at anti sway (I've never had much of a sway problem as long as the tongue is weighted properly).

One of the simple designs....
http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL267.../407702296.jpg


Jeff-

I wouldn't spend the money on these until you've actually hauled with a loaded trailer... because it all depends on the trailer and the truck combo whether or not you need it.

My short bed crew cab Dodge 2500 (single wheel rear) needed it --- my Dually F-350 did not -- same trailer same load.

Brother in laws Ford F-250 needed it towing his old trailer -- but hasn't used it since he got my old trailer...

BTW --- The SWAY CONTROL DEVICE is a total PITA.... it's just a bar that slides between an adjustable "brake/friction" surface. You have to stop and remove it before backing etc.

If I had a trailer that needed that (which is separate from the load leveling hitch) I'd sell it before I'd add that. No good trailer should have to have that.

This is kinda apples to oranges because this isn't what I would call a serious load, but is what prompted the question...

I towed last weekend with an open trailer down to a casino show. I set up the load so it just barely set the rear of my Yukon down. It towed perfect! No sway or bob, no "light" feeling front end, I thought it was ideal. One of my friends commented that I had sure "loaded that poor truck down".... WTF...

http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL267.../407702975.jpg


Jeff-

Loading the rear of the tow vehicle down one inch is almost PERFECT.... the "tongue" should have 10% of the load on it. So 6,000 pound load should have 600 pounds of weight on the tongue of the trailer.


If the trailer doesn't sway --- and some do! --- and the front of the tow vehicle isn't getting "light" and becoming a "too much steering input" issue.... Then I'd say you've got no problems.


NOTE: Too LITTLE air pressure is the biggest cause of tire failure -- so when towing ALWAYS fill your tires with the proper air for TOWING..... A stiffer sidewall (more air pressure) will also help with trailer handling. I actually adjust my tire pressures depending on the season -- I use more pressure in the winter than in the summer... because the HEAT of the roads etc changes the "running" pressures. I run 105 pounds in the front in the summer and 110 in the winter on "the rig".

Jeff- I use my 2500 Suburban for towing an enclosed 24' Wells Cargo and it does awesome for a gas motor. Great tow rig- Mine's white too

This was my first tow since I bought the truck, I had been warned that the 6.0 was gonna drink gas and have no real power... it did absolutely fine. I didn't put pen to paper but a 3 hour round trip on a 1/4 tank of gas is not "drinking". I really don't think the Dmax dually I had would have done much better. Plus, this Quadrasteer ruins you.


Jeff-

I think the TOW RIG is all about where a guy lives and how many times he's actually going to use it.... In the Northwest -- we have MAJOR grades 5/6/7% -- and one after the other if you're going south on I-5 thru the Siskiyou's and then over Mt Shasta... and further south over "the grapevine" to LA area

If I go East -- I immediately have to pull a grade -- and if I go North - I am winding thru the mountains.... So basically I can't go anywhere FLAT or thru ROLLING hills.... People here need real pulling power and even more important the brakes that come along with that power.

I once -- and only once -- used my Denali 6.0 to pull an open flatbed trailer with a '69 Camaro (big block) over the Grapevine to LA --- I was WOT doing 35 mph and if I lifted I was sure I was going to go backwards....