Ken
Yes if you don't mind please send it to me. I would like to try to see if it will work for me.

Thanks
Bill

I picked up the rear axle assy today from Chassis Service......Powder Coated.....and everything new including axles....Jimmy installed the rear brakes at the same time..........

Saved me some time..........Brought it home and mounted the Ridetech rear Coil-over brackets and just kept going.....got it installed.......Also got the new motor mount engine adaptor plates and frame mounts finished......the adaptor plates worked perfect.....but ....I have to modify the frame mounts to fit the rubber mounts.....I should of had one at the shop to check what I was making........LOL.......



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Ken

Very nice!

Got the new motor mounts finished and installed today.........As you can see in the first picture the Dirty Dingo slider mounts on the stock frame stands were up to the front of the engine.........I needed that room on the passenger side for the A/C compressor......so....the slider adaptors and the frame mounts had to go............in the following pictures you can see the new adaptor plates and frame mounts I made to shift the mount position to the center of the crossmember to give me the room for the compressor.........I made a couple of simple mounts and a RH/LH heim end tensioner to get the stock belt tight.......I also made some new brake lines at the master cylinder with the coil in them for body/Chassis flex (thanks Rick).......Getting ready to pull the engine out for the last time for a couple of loose ends then it go's in to stay.....


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Ken

Got the Brake lines finished up today and bled the brakes also......Didn't do too bad.....had about 13 brake line connections and only had 12 leaks..........Another thing off the list....


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Ken

nice work 12 out 13 not too bad lol got my eye on you lol

Well.........It seems that me and the rear brake God have some issues......Complete Wilwood system including Master Cylinder.......I bench bleed the master and had to "Work" it to get the rear system bubble free.........the front cleared up with a couple of pumps.........So.....everything installed (all new brake lines)and gravity bled till I got some help to finish the job........Bled the fronts and when opening the bleeder valve it was like a water fountain and the pedal went to the floor as it should.......Great!!......go to do the rears and I would get a couple of drops and the pedal stayed right where it was......Hummm!!!.........either side didn't make a difference.........Hummmm!!!............So....I'm thinking maybe the adjustable proportioning valve is the issue......so I crank it in to give it maximum flow........go to bleed them again......same thing ......a couple drops of fluid without any pedal drop.......So......I call Wilwood and talk to one of the tech guys.........After conversation with them I learned that even with the proportioning valve at full flow.....it only allows 57% of volume thru......so......Today I decided to remove the prop valve..........while I was making a new brake line I decided to do the bench bleed again.....after removing the brake line I put my thumb over the port and worked the pedal thru the steering column hole.....I got some pressure but not enough to blow my thumb off the port......Hummm!!!.......So.....I finish up and install the new line and again....in bleeding the rear I just get a couple of drops with no pedal drop...............Am I missing something???.......It would seem to me that the M/C even though new could be bad....


On another note.....I ordered the wheels today...........and tomorrow I should receive the balance of my Dakota Digital order so I can continue on with the wiring.........I also got all the belts installed and tensioned correctly.........And.....In checking out the pan clearance with the steering arms......It seems I not going to have any clearance issues......(But...the suspension is still unloaded).......


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What did you decide on for wheels?

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Grey Powder Coated center and Brushed rim

I would be interested to know what your passenger side head to firewall clearance is. Those AC brackets look very similar to the Alan Grove components that mount a Sanden 508. I am beginning to think I could possibly make those work without notching the frame.

Come on Ken -- what's with this little postage stamp pic!! I'm old -- I can't even tell what that is a picture of?!?!?!?!


HAHAHAHAHHAHAHA


It's coming along nicely!

1 1/4"....................


Ken

Greg......It's beyond my Technical ability to find a bigger picture..........LOL

Another one of those little things that get stuck in the back of your head that you know will become a problem downstream because it's going too smooth just popped up........Now that I'm going to pull the engine for the last time (Hopefully) and tie up some loose ends......I decided to go back and check the tie rod to oil pan clearance that everyone else has "Issues" with....I didn't have any ......I had a slight contact in one direction but plenty of clearance when turning the other direction.....so....I noticed the center drag link wasn't centered with the engine and I thought I could get away with adjusting the tie rod ends to get everything centered and have clearance...........so.......I check everything again today and notice that the rotors didn't look like they were turning far enough.......so I start thinking about the turning radius not being sharp enough which would then shorten the drag link travel from side to side..........So.....I check to see where the steering arm stops contact the lower control arm..........Hummm!!.......I measure the Ridetech contact point and it's approx. 2 1/4" from the stop surface to the center of the ball joint..........I get out my stock lower arm and measure it at 1 1/2" ....Hummmmm!!!!.......I'll call Ridetech on Monday.....Better to deal with it now than after the engine is plugged in and all the accessories are on...........Maybe I'm making a mountain out of a molehill again...........

Beautiful car Ken. :cool:

Hope it's a simple fix and when you're done it has a roar like this one.

Well.......The day started out with me calling Ridetech and asking about the steering stops hitting way before the stock position and this was taking away from the turn radius of the car (again.....from the ball joint C/L to the stop surface on the lower control arm........Stock GM is 1 1/2".........Ridetech 2 1/4 inches.........)I sent pictures as requested and haven't heard anything since............I need to get this resolved so I can modify the pan for drag link clearance if req'd.........

The next issue was the trans cross member.........It seems that when the previous owners added the Turbo 400 trans they did the Hillbilly cut and weld to make it fit......so after looking and figuring out what to do with it.......I decided to make it bolt into the stock frame location and holes......and it ended up that the rubber trans mount ended up right in the middle of the crossmember...........so we made a new detail and cut and welded it together.....brought it home and it fell into place........then..........the new Wilwood Master cylinder showed up.....I knew the old one had some issues ( cause I are Smart)........opened up the new one , Bench bled it for a half hour .........not a hint of air and it seemed this one has more flow to the rear chamber.....so.....I knew this was gonna be easy..........Stick it on the car , bleed the fronts....no problem.......go to do the rear.........Same thing........no pedal drop while bleeding and just a few drops of fluid out of the bleeder and No clamping pressure at all on the rear rotors.........Darn!!!..........Time to start breaking the new lines apart and look for a restriction somewhere...........(a smart person would have probably done that B4 buying a new Master).......I also got the new Holley Pan Baffle assy that was recommended.......


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When I woke up this morning........( Thanks to Greg Weld)......These were the wheels I envisioned on the car.........so....I changed my mind on the wheels I ordered.......Final Pick.....LOL

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Oh hell!! You bought some wheels!! NICE!!!



I was wondering what that other post was about…



I'm beginning to think that you and I are a lot alike (sad thought huh?) -- building is better than "being done". I just love the process -- and the solutions -- and hunting the parts down. Then when they're all done -- it's like a void sets in. Yeah… they're fun to drive… but then I go to the shed and there's nothing for me to stew over.


:>)

Yep!!!

If you are reusing the hose from the rearend to the hard line they rust up on the inside of the bulkhead. Kevin

great choice I really like the wheels,this project sure is moving along nicely,well done:thumbsup:

Kev.......Everything is new.......

Thanks

Ken

Two steps forward today........So......While waiting for my Princess to come home to help with Bleeding the brakes......I decided to wrap up another loose end.......I bought an American Autowire custom wire kit and needed to get in the trunk and get the rear harness in......along with the Dakota Digital LED tail lights.......Got everything installed and hooked up......the back of the car is now finished.......Checked on the Rick's Vaporworx Stainless tank and it is supposed to be shipping this week.......Now........Getting back to the brake issue.......

I was taking the easy way out and bled the fronts first as I could do that somewhat easily as the steering column is still out so I could reach thru the firewall and work the brake pedal to get at least a partial pedal by doing the drivers side first....Absolutely wrong ....but by convienence I did it that way......So......I was told to do the rears first......Duhhhh!!!!........So....I removed the front brake line and installed the bench bleeder in the front chamber....when she got home we started bleeding the rears...........Nothing.....no pedal.....just a few drops of fluid...........Darn!!!............after 10 minutes of nothing happening......I decided to change brake lines around and hook the rear line to the front port and moved the bench bleeder stuff to the rear port........Started bleeding the rears using the front and it looked like a drinking fountain out of the rear calipers......so....the rear brakes lines were O.K...........switched the lines back to normal and I now have front and rear brakes.........Bingo!!!...........I'm not even gonna try and figure it out.........Still waiting to hear from Ridetech to see if their parts increased the turn radius so I can get the oil pan clearance issues resolved.......I'll call them again tomorrow.....


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Ken

THE MONEY SHOT!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Now that the stupid Brake issues are gone......I took the day today and got all the Disc Brake emergency brake cables integrated into the system and it's all finished up and working perfectly........The wildwood expanding internal brakes built into the rotors are ......Lets just say a lot "Better" than the Seville rears used on the last couple swaps......Great job Wilwood!!!!...........I also started getting the console wiring made and installed .......doubled checked the Neutral safety switch and the back up light switch and everything works where and when it's supposed to......I also got the info on the turning radius of the Ridetech suspension.........It is a slightly larger turn radius than stock but they said not to worry about it.........So.......I'm not gonna worry......LOL........Time for a Nap!!!


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Ken

Started the weekend off by starting to re-install the proportioning valve back into the brake system........LOL....My K-D Taiwan built flaring tool ended up being non-useable.......I should have bought one of those good ones for $200, but I thought that this $80 one would be able to make maybe at least 20 flares.........LOL........Wrong.........Advise to anyone doing this stuff......Don't buy any of this foreign "JUNK"...........

The next thing I had to deal with was after buying and installing the "Shiftworks" cable conversion kit for the console shifter.......Everything was fine until I installed the cable to the transmission........It seems the supplied cable was a little too short and didn't have enough length to allow for the cable's bend radius......the cable came right thru the floor and had to be bent straight down to the mounting bracket and bent again to fit the trans mount........So....I ended up having a Lokar cable laying around and after installing it.....everything was smooth......I just need to make some clevis adaptors to get everything to mate together...........

The Rick's tank showed up and I picked it up with the Impala (the only car around with a trunk big enough to fit).......got it home and "Wow".......what a quality piece of work......Great Job Rick's........


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Really liking this build, I'm looking forward to more. Love the '66...

Ken,

That tank is a thing of beauty!

Can I ask a favor please? What is the measurement from the center of the fuel module hole to the far end of the filler neck? I'm just making a database of chassis needs. Thanks!

I'll measure when I get back from SEMA......

Ken

nice project keep up the good work

So.....I think one of the mysteries of the world was solved today.......Remember.....this is a just restored car when I bought it.....and......when I got it home I wanted to drive the car as it was for a while before taking it apart.......But...I found out the tail light circuit had some issues and would pop a fuse every time.......(no tail lights or Brake lights).......I unplugged everything to the back of the car and the fuse still popped........Hummm!!!.......I removed the fuse panel as it seemed that was all that was left......I found some issues on the back of the panel and straightened them out and thought I had everything fixed.....Put it back together and popped another fuse........That's when I decided to take the car apart and rewire the entire car.........

So....After getting the console wiring completed today I decided to re-install the console and check everything out.....while doing that I decided to just add power to the repro console clock just to make sure it worked..........I have a little dry cell 12v battery and added a couple of jumper wires for power........hit the terminals and "Zap!!!"...........checked it out again and "Zap!!!" again...........Hummmm!!!!.......Dead Short!!!........looked closer at the terminals and noticed that the Insulator washer was on top of the screwed down terminal rather than between the terminal and the case creating a dead short........Humm!!!.......Somebody in China wasn't told how to assemble the unit correctly........swapped the parts around and everything works correctly.........so ....the power feed for the console must be wired into the tail light circuit and now it seems the Clock was the problem all along..........Long winded story but maybe it will help somebody else with a similar issue downstream..........Heres a picture of the terminal after correction......still kinda hard to see and a Mickey Mouse way of getting the power thru the case....


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Glad you tracked down your electrical issue. Sometimes those are the hardest part of a build and a small detail can really ruin your day....

X's 2 Good detective work.

Since I changed the shift cable assy on the trans.......I didn't like the way the mounting bracket presented the cable to the trans shift arm........so....I made a new bracket today and installed it when I got home.......Everything is now more in line and it shifts perfectly......I also got my kick panel speakers in from Custom Autosound......got them painted and noticed that the Parking Brake pedal nad the Speaker were fighting for the same space.......so......cut and rewelded the pedal over 1 1/4" and solved that issue.......another couple things crossed off the list.......


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Ken

Got a couple of issues ironed out today......#1 was getting the oil pan/steering clearance issue resolved.......Now.....almost everyone with a Chevelle / A body LS swap has steering rod end/ oil pan clearance issues where some notching of the pan is required.........After getting the weight of the car on the front control arms today........I then started measuring everything with a load on the suspension.........what I had was a clearance issue turning to the left.....but turning to the right I had plenty of room between the rod end and the oil pan after hitting the steering stops.......so .....after checking every thing out I noticed that the center drag link was not centered to the engine.......after measuring everything six times......I went ahead and centered the drag link , then adjusted the steering rod ends to get everything balanced back out.....I now had clearance in both directions between the rod ends and the oil pan when at the travel limit in both directions..........Got Lucky......the engine must sit just high enough for things to work........


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The next problem that needed to be resolved required the engine to be removed for the fix...... when I removed the original Camaro oil pan that had the factory engine coolant heat exchanger for cooling the engine oil........there was a fitting that fed the coolant out of the block to the cooler........when I removed that fitting , the sealant that the factory used ended up galling the thread while unscrewing the aluminum fitting........so ......the threads were screwed up in the block and needed to be repaired so I could screw in and seal the opening with a new fitting that I will make at the shop..........So......In checking the threads it ended up that GM uses a non standard thread.........M28x1.25 pitch...........you can get a 1.0 or a 1.5 mm pitch but not a 1.25.........so.....I had no choice other than to have a tap made by a specialty Tap manufacturer..........Now....Because the threads were galled in the block and didn't want to take a chance of the tap going in on a angle and making things worse.....I made a sleeve that was a slip fit for the tap so I could hold the sleeve on the sealing face of the hole ......this allowed me to keep the tap square ...............Held it in place and started tapping and I got Lucky as it picked up the existing threads and cleaned them out perfectly.......Cool.......I'll make a new fitting tomorrow and get the engine in for the last time ( I hope)........


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Ken

Got the engine put back in today hopefully for the last time.........had to go and get a new yoke for the driveshaft......measured everything and having the driveshaft made........Everything else bolted up beautifully


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Looks great Ken. :thumbsup:

Loving the progress and taking lots of notes!

Smart move to have the front end off
 

It so much more enjoyable that way, good work as always Ken.

Nice job Ken.