In the final episode of our three part mini series - "As the Pulley Turns"

I did a little detail work on the sides while it was still in the lathe.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps689fa0e7.jpg

Then setup the rotary table in the mill.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps4cdadfe4.jpg

And setup the pulley on the rotary table.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc59acd83.jpg

Then just cut away everything that isn't a pulley.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps8ebd6349.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps64faf3cb.jpg
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http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc94ee60e.jpg

Do a little deburring and hit it with some scotchbrite this is what's left.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps240ef9f5.jpg

On the motor. I have to put an idler pulley up around that left button head bolt, that's for tomorrow.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps2cb1074a.jpg

Mike, it's a work of art, for sure! I'm not sure I've ever seen a keyed crank pulley made from aluminum, though. All I've ever bought or used were steel, but I'm probably wrong. Either way, great job!

Nice job ! It came out sweet!

I had to add an idler to the mix to get it all to work. The power steering and alternator bracket is a purchased part and I decided to just modify it. It's already overly complicated and too many parts, but I added more pieces to it.

I added an angled piece to help support the pulley and used some b7 all thread and made a nut/ pulley locator.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psac85521b.jpg

That holds the pulley just fine.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps94c9b416.jpg

Instead of keying the crank pulley I decided to convert it all over to pin drive. Each pulley has a set of pressed in 1/4" dowel pins and two slip fit holes on the other side. The mandrel has two pressed in pins and the nut on the end has two slip fit holes. It all stacks up together. This will not have any issues, it's solid.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psdb399dd8.jpg
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http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psef184c18.jpg
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All finished. Gotta find a belt that fits. If you are wondering how the belt is tensioned, the power steering pump has a jack screw underneath it to move it up to tension the belt.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...pse6687a24.jpg

Boom, nailed it. I used to purchase pin drive set ups from CV, for my late models. That's a nice job!

Fuel system is done. I'm taking a little risk here for an experiment. I had a -10 feed and -8 return before with a big loud fuel pump. I've always built overkill in a fuel system, but that may have been going to far. My last mustang made 600 at the wheels with a single -6 line returnless system. Will a single -8 feed 950 flywheel hp? I'm going to find out. I'm also not dual feeding the fuel rails. Big hp efi cars make 2500 hp feeding 8 x 160lb/hr injectors on a single fuel rail on each side, I'm doing less than that with 6 in basically one rail. I have the y-block and lines to dual feed later if I find issues on the dyno.

The tank is a stock replacement GN tank, with twin 340lph racetronix pumps, -8 feed to a holley 175gph (660lph) 10 micron e85 safe filter, -8 to the passenger rail, a -8 crossover, then my weldon 2040 regulator to a -6 return running through a GM flex fuel sensor. I had intended to do stainless hardline, but without pulling the body off the frame, it just wasn't going to be practical. I would have had 6 feet of hardline max and added more joints to leak. The body wont' come up off the frame at all with the cage in the car.

From back to front.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps605b8b01.jpg
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http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps1e557799.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps8b75062d.jpg
Both lines run inside the frame all the way up front and out the stock hole in the crossmember.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps1d6697dd.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps036d4c2f.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc3208900.jpg

It was so nice outside today I opened up the garage door and had too find something to do.

I used to have two 1/2 npt tapped holes with -10 fitting threaded into the front plate. That meant I had to RTV the plate to the belt drive. Last time I put it back together it leaked. The belt drive has -10 o-ring threads in it, but because of the front plate, I can't use a normal fitting. So, I made my own. I cut bigger holes in the front plate to pass the new fittings through.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps3b514eed.jpg
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That is the last custom machined part. If it's not too expensive, I'm going to gather up all the machined parts and have them hard anodized black.

Amazing job.

great job mike!

Not a lot of progress lately. I sent 90% of my machined parts off to be anodized. I can't do a lot until most of that stuff gets back.



I did re-do my water pump feed. I had a rubber hose on it that I found at the auto parts store that was close, but not perfect. I never did like it. So, I made a perfect fitting one from stainless tube and some silicone clamps.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps7eed5f8c.jpg



My old header crossover hit the new bellhousing, so I remade it. I used a burns double slip this time instead of a bellows. I like the fit, just hope it seals up.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps0cab6c79.jpg



I've got all the a/c parts except the lines. I'll order the parts to make them as soon as I get all the components mounted.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc6dc1bb9.jpg



I found a factory accessory bracket and bought one of the billet tensioners. Other than the fact that it looks like a wiring bomb went off, It's starting to look like a stock GN under the hood again.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc7cd45f0.jpg

Pretty anodized car parts. I sent them off last Friday and got them back today.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psd001789d.jpg

Mike, these parts look terrific! Let's see them on the car now.

Great build! I started the path of putting the 109 block in my Camaro, but with the price of having to buy everything it was just too expensive. I have since gone with the Series II 3800 and a turbo.

As said, get to work putting them on the car.

Just awesome
 

G-body wizardry at it's best:trophy-1302:

Ask and ye shall receive. Parts are back on the car.

I don't know why Baer didn't anodize this cap to match the hub, but it looks better now. Better than the cheap center caps that weld gives with the wheels.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps5fe0088d.jpg
Fuel rails and every fuel fitting that I modified is now redone in black anodize. No issues with E85 now.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps6fef7604.jpg
Pulleys all back on. That is an a/c delete pulley on there now where the compressor would be. I bought the sanden compressor and have to make some adapter brackets for it to work on the stock accessory bracket.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psa18c879f.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psf3a40650.jpg
Thermostat housing and cam sync bracket are also now black.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psbff88d54.jpg
Shock brackets and rearend fill cap are black now.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps84b9a141.jpg
Starting on the tubing work. Hope to knock the rest out tomorrow.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps39e54639.jpg

Got the intercooler tubes redone. The downpipe still fits. That's probably the first part that I've been able to just put back on without modifying.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...pse17df243.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psae2c1744.jpg

Love this build...need moar updates!!!

Mind PMing me the back spacing on those wheels? I just looked they the whole thread but don't recall a frame notch mentioned but it's gotta have it with those steam rollers?!

Awesome build man!
Dave

Sweet
 

Love these things.

Are the parts Hard Anno'd or standard black?

Thank you. I started a new job and have been traveling for the last couple weeks for training. Once I get back home and get settled into the new job, I'll get back to the car.

18x9 Weld RTS front with 5.1" backspacing and high pad brake clearance. 245/40/18 MT Sport Comp tires. SC&C stage 2 front suspension with SPC lowers and Baer T4 brakes.
18x11 Weld RTS rear with 5.7 backspacing and medium pad brake clearance. But, the rearend is narrowed about 3/8" per side. Frame is notched and stock wheel wells are stretched about 1". 305/35/18's M/T Drag Radials on the rear

Just standard black. The pulleys should have been hard coated. But it was a lot of money and for two different processes between the batch, I would have had to pay two minimum charges.

yea, setup costs get rough
 

I hope the pullies dont turn purple. Im betting they did a good job and the parts wont discolor

I used this shop specifically because of that. We used a local shop at my old job and their parts were red in a few weeks. These guys have been doing all the work since and it stays black.

Long time no update. I started a new job and decided to start another car project, 92 mustang. I need a break from this car for a while.

http://streetntrack.net/uploads/mont...6514_thumb.jpg

But now I'm refreshed and back at it ready for the final stretch on the GN.

One of my minor holdups was the drive shaft. I had an expensive Mark Williams steel drive shaft. They wanted over $200 to shorten it plus shipping both ways. I figured I could just sell it and buy a new one and come out ahead. It took a while but I finally sold it and put the money towards a 3.5" aluminum shaft from Coleman Racing. I'm pleasantly surprised by the quality for the price. It has forged Sonnax weld yokes, 3.5" .125 wall 6061 tube and decent welds. It came with neapco greasable 1350 joints. I would have preferred spicer solid joints, but I'll give them a try.

http://streetntrack.net/uploads/mont...8064_thumb.jpg
I already had the spicer forged yoke for the t-56 magnum.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/mont...8080_thumb.jpg
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I've been working on a bunch of little stuff lately. Pulled the intercooler and painted it so it doesn't stick out from behind the grill as much. Buttoned up the accessories and coolant plumbing.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/mont...1709_thumb.jpg
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/mont...1716_thumb.jpg
Every other hose on the car is braided stainless, might as well.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/mont...8089_thumb.jpg

Tonight I finished up the charge tubes.
Did my own, home grown bead rolling.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/mont...8631_thumb.jpg
Cleaned the tubes inside and scotchbrited the outside.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/mont...8633_thumb.jpg
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And installed them and the turbo for good.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/mont...8636_thumb.jpg

Looking good, Mike. How soon til you think you can get out there and lay some rubber down? I'm really excited to hear how the car performs with the T56.

This weekend I'll install the new wheel studs and re-fit the tailpipe. That's it mechanically. I have a few days of wiring to do that I plan to take a little time off to finish week after next. Then fill all the fluids, bleed everything and nut and bolt the car. Then tuning and tire smoke. I hope by early September it's sorted out so I can enjoy the cooler weather.

The main office for my new job is in Warren, MI and a bunch of my new co-workers want me to bring my car up for the dream cruise, but I don't think I have that much energy right now to get it done by then.

Wiring is finished. It took a lot longer than expected, but it's nice and clean. I used my XFI to control a lot of new functions. Added flex fuel, individual coil packs (XIM), Oil pressure safety shut down and fuel pressure compensation, boost control. Twin in tank fuel pumps, the first runs like normal. The second turns on when the engine crosses into boost. I use a mph based output to close the reverse lockout on the t56 above 5 mph.

http://streetntrack.net/uploads/mont...1438466611.jpg

http://streetntrack.net/uploads/mont...1439086271.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...d9QjHMk-X2.jpg

Looks great Mike. How does the car drive?

I haven't driven it yet. Still finishing up all the little details before it hits the road.

It lives again. I might actually take it for a spin tonight.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3wh4AQijjw

If those weren't such well known cars, you could surprise a lot of people with how docile it sounds. Nice job.

Yeah, the cam is suprisingly small. The motor has a solid lifters and shaft mount rockers that are a bit noisy. It sounds like a sewing machine with the hood up. I could swap to hydraulic lifters and still make 800+hp to the tires.

It had a loud external fuel pump before that was a dead giveaway that it was fast. The twin in tank pumps might be the best change I made. You can't even hear them now.

I orignially used a stock f-body clutch master and even after a few days of bleeding, I could not get enough travel for the rxt clutch. I ordered a DSE master adapter and tilton 7/8 master to fix that. Well, the new clutch master is in and fixed the problem. Although after bleeding this one, I wonder how much more air could have been in the stocker. We bench bled this one for a good 30 minutes and just kept getting more and more air. It was ridiculous how long it took to get all the air out. You could see air bubbles pop up on the opaque cap on the tilton to let us know it was still coming out.

Tomorrow I'm going to put the filler plates in the trunk and figure out why the sending unit isn't reading right. Then I'm out stuff to do until I get a trans speedo plug and an alignment. I never thought this day would come.

http://streetntrack.net/uploads/mont...8526_thumb.jpg

http://streetntrack.net/uploads/mont...8539_thumb.jpg

Mike, I noticed your return going through the flex fuel sensor only. I did the same thing on my grand national but ran into problems. I have a 10 feed and 8 return. i noticed while on the dyno the fuel pressure flat lined on the 4psi gatespring then started to fall off at higher rpm's. This showed a restriction on the return side which at first i thought i had a regulator problem. turned out the flex fuel sensor was just bottle necking return fuel. we added a y into the inlet and outlet from the flex fuel sensor and that fixed the issue.

It should be returning 100% of the fuel when the engine isn't running and I'm having no problems like that. Were you running this same sensor or the older one that has the inlet and out let parallel to each other? I plan to keep my eye on it regardless.

Sick
 

That thing is dipped in awesome

Thanks. It get's better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsMYXJbwrsw

Car looks fantastic Mike. Best looking GN I've ever seen.
Next video hopefully includes some tire smoke....just sayin.

You aren't the first person asking for smoke. I've got plenty of bugs to work out and break in on the trans and clutch, but eventually I will turn it back up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhDQ...ature=youtu.be

Anybody that followed this thread from the beginning a year ago would see that I took a running car and basically redid everything but the engine. At this point it's "done" again. If anyone see's me tear it apart or even hears me talk about making changes again they are welcome to slap me. I'm calling this build DONE. It's now in the drive, maintain and enjoy phase of life.

I raised the front up a little and it get's an alignment Saturday morning. Then just cruising and tuning. I took it for a spin in the light drizzling rain to get the front end to settle.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/mont...9085_thumb.jpg
Then I swapped spots with my Mustang in the garage so I can continue it's build.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/mont...9086_thumb.jpg