Pics
 

Here is a pic of my rear. It is a Strange 9" w/DSE brackets. Everything just tacked for now until I determine my best pinion angle...

[IMG]http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pstdwj66fy.jpg[/IMG]

Not 100% sure what brake package I will end up running, but for now I have these C6 ZO6 Calipers & Rotors.

[IMG]http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psjq72hwyz.jpg[/IMG]

^ that's fugly dude. You better start over :D

:cheers:

looks good!!!

:thankyou:

Looks great!!!:thumbsup:

These set-ups LOVE Firebirds :poke:

Tried calling you earlier and left a message with my number.

thanks, Jake

Will you have to straighten the housing after welding or will it be good if you TIG a bit at a time?

Great question!

The preferred/recommended method would be to first weld on ALL suspension brackets COMPLETELY. TIG being the preferred method but certainly not required.
If patience is practiced during welding (taking time between brackets, and allowing brief cooling periods), you will see VERY little movement of the axle tubes. The minimal axle tube movement you may experience will not effect the axle centerline at all once you install the weld-on flange ends with my/your jig set-up which puts the Ends/Hubs/Axles at perfect centerline with the carrier despite where the actual axle tube is. Although the flange may be slightly "offset" on the axle tube end, that is irrelevant and will not effect anything.
Now, with that said, IF the tubes pulled one way or the other for whatever the reason (or the housing came that way before getting started), you can straighten the tubes by applying a approx. 2" weld on the side you want to "pull up". This you will find will slowly pull the axle tube in the direction you are wanting it to go (of course after you have gotten the results you wanted you will need to grind/sand the weld smooth).
In extreme cases, you may have to quench the 2" weld with water that usually yields twice the results due to the instant cooling effect that springs the metal back at the applied weld.
I have only seen a few housings that required this treatment, and still was not really needed due to the fixturing process that installs the weld-on flange at perfect axle centerline. This mainly applies to a traditional style floater install that utilizes spindle "snouts" that actually install into the axle tubes, as apposed to a big ford end or like mine that simply butt weld to the axle tube end.
Hope all this makes sense.

Jay

Jay,

I'll trade you for my flanged rear....lol

Looks killer!

Efrain

Thanks Efrain, I am a serious fan of parts porn and find myself spending lots of time just looking at it!
If you currently have a Big Ford "Torino End" on your current housing, I will soon have a bolt on option for you. But shhhhhh, don't tell anyone....

Uh oh. This sounds like trouble for me.
http://alexandranouri.com/wp-content...een-around.jpg

Not sure if I'm going be be able to resist the urge to upgrade.

Kevin

Thanks for the info Jay.
Wes

They look sweet Jay, top quality as expected......

This is going to be one very slick piece IMO. I have been working out all the MANY little details and am now ready to go! I wanted to be able to make this a true bolt on that requires NO fabrication, it will benefit EVERYONE that has an existing rear-end that currently has Big Ford "New Style/Torino" ends, and that would like to convert to this C6/7 set-up...
Based on your/others current 2.50" axle offset (most common) on your existing housing, this new C6/7 "bolt-on" set-up will add 1/4" to each sides wheel mounting surface due to design constraints while working around the Big Ford End/C6/7 assembly dimensions....

Many folks will be able to run their existing calipers & rotors too with the addition of new caliper brackets & rotor hats from the manufacturer of the caliper & rotor, so long as they offer your caliper/rotor in a C5/6 application (I know this gets confusing a bit, but I will assist you with all this if you are heading this direction).....



You're welcome Wes!

They gotta be,,,,, got guys like you watching :thankyou:

Wow just stumbled across this thread wow!!! Really slick set up.

just read this post but
 

i currently have a 12 bolt in my 66 elco, with wilwood 6 piston calipers, fixed. i do have pad knock back .

what do i need to do to make this kit work and do you have a complete kit for my application?

thanks

Thanks!

What flange ends do you run on your 12 bolt?

Hi all,
I just ordered a set of these from Jay today and I am in the Akron ohio area. So if anyone is interested in seeing these in person or wants to follow me when i build me axel, just let me know.

i have been reading these fourms for years but just joined a few weeks ago to be able to message you guys to get some parts.

Dan
65 Skylark
63 Buick Riviera

The factory flanges 4 but top are narrow bottom wider

So is the bolt-on version for the New/Big Ford ends available now???

If so. . .pricing on a complete bolt-on kit???

Also, you mentioned the weld-on kit is butt welded. . .what diameter axle tube are these set-up for?

Sorry but you would only be a candidate for the weld-on kit. Cut your current ends off, and weld on the new C6 ends.



Yes, I do have a few sets of bolt-on kits available. A "complete bolt-on kit" is $1650 plus PayPal/Shipping.

Yes, the weld-on kit is butt welded, and will accommodate tube outside diameters 2-5/8" to 3-1/2". Pretty much anything...

PM me your phone# and Ill give you a call.

Thanks, Jay

Jay,

I may be in the market for something just like this... I would be interested in the weld-on kit. You mentioned earlier in the thread that Strange was onboard to offer their housings with your flanges welded on. I presume that's not an option available on their site anywhere. Would the purchase take place directly through them, or the kit through you and then shipped to them? Trying to determine the logistics. :)

Thanx...

Yes, you would still purchase the kit from me and I would ship the kit to STRANGE along with fixture blocks for correct alignment. I had spoke with STRANGE in detail about the kit and they stated they would be able to weld on the C6 steel flanges since they install exactly the same way as any other flange end.
The only variable would be what specific suspension/brackets you're requiring. They mentioned that they do not install ALL types so it would be at their discretion once that info was supplied. So if you call them about housing info, also supply them with your suspension bracket needs to determine if you are a candidate. I have been quoted by STRANGE $150 to weld on the C6 flanges....

When you call STRANGE remember you are speaking with any one of the many sales staff and most likely will be clueless of my set-up, so don't be surprised if you are getting deer in the headlight look through the phone. Just get the housing/bracket quote, add the $150 for flange install and when ready I will assist with getting the correct order placed. I am currently helping another gentleman out with his axle order since he is getting that same deer in the headlight look :D

Let me know if you have any other questions and I will do my best to answer.

Jay

Thanks Jay. . .I'll get a hold of you soon. I need to source my rear end. . .this kinda changes my build plan a little, but I hadn't laid any money out on anything for the rear end yet, and I hadn't started designing my rear suspension yet either so I'm pretty golden it sounds like.

Thanks!!!

Jay, would you happen to have any photos of the bolt-on kits?

What does the complete kit include?

Also, how much width (if any) does the kit add to your WMS-to-WMS width? I'm guessing it doesn't and bolts to the back of the flanges, but since I haven't seen photos I'm not 100% positive and just want to make sure before I order a rear end.

Thanks!!!

.250in per side according to
https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=49657

Hi Joe,

You probably have utilized the link that Vince supplied so please visit that link to see pics (just posted a few new ones as well). The complete kit includes everything you will need except; Rotors, Calipers, e-brake cables & Axles.
Everything else that you would need is included; C6 Flanges, C7 SKF Hub Units, complete C6 E-brake setup, all hardware, axle seals.

Let me know if there is anything else.

Thank you,
Jay

Vince, thank you for helping out as usual :thumbsup:

Thanks Jay & Vince. . .I didn't realize there was a thread just for the bolt-on kit; I found this thread by following a link from another thread. . .

Another Complete C6/7 Weld-on Kit headed out to Northern CA. This customer will be utilizing the free fixture pieces that I loan out to install his own flange ends correctly. :thumbsup:

Will now be running another batch. Thanks to you that have purchased, AND to you that are soon to purchase!

I am really interested in this, can the axles be done in 30 spline for my eaton locker?

Yes sir.

Hi
 

This kit use the corvette hub and bearings. I wonder how much weight this bearing/ hub can withstand, with corvette wheel offset.
I am looking for a setup for a street car, but it is a lot heavier then the Corvette.
So how much axel weight is it safe to run on this axel / hub combination?

Thank you for your interest and flattered to get your 1st post!

I have no way of answering this with any kind of scientific data, but what I can tell you, is a very talented group of current, and ex GM engineers have these same hub units installed on cars (front & back) such as a 69 Dodge Charger that is fully loaded with late model hemi, whipple super charger, auto trans, roll cage, full interior, big wheels/tires/brakes, etc..

Also 70 Chevelle, 1st gen Camaros, and all with similar weight adding components. So if these guys are confident outfitting these heavy weight cars that are purpose built to be tracked, I feel comfortable giving the same endorsement on similar weighted cars.


So what is the car you are wanting to run this on, and how much does it weigh?

My car is a 1995 Chevrolet caprice / impala clone with ls3 and supercharger.
I have kor3 corvette zo6 brakes up front and still have the stock rear brakes.
The rear end is 8.5 C-clip with the abs sensor on the pinion, and the worst 3 channel abs system ever made.
What I want is a system that eliminates the C-clip, and has the provision for ABS sensors on both wheels. I live in Norway and I would need some kind of documentation to prove that the setup can hold the vehicle weight. Usually when I change a rear end to a different type I use the weight spec from the donor vehicle to prove that the axle is strong enough. With the corvette parts I think this could be a problem.
The total weight on the rear end of the car is 1213kg or 2674lb

Regards
Tor

You were not kidding when you said heavy!
I am not certain, and not sure how adaptable your ABS system is, but you may be able to suffice load ratings by running Camaro/Cadillac CTS-V Hub part#'s. I am almost positive they are identical dimensions as Vette but easy to prove ratings on these 4000+lb cars. I am not saying to even rule out the C6/7 hub part #'s either as if you could find specifications on them they are probably even rated for your weight loads??? I did a quick search and did not find anything but perhaps someone on this site can help if they know.

Jay

Just in case anyone is wondering,,,, I will have sets ready to ship by mid next week! (just waiting for Hub Spacers to come back from anodize shop)

So with that said, a few changes.

The Billet 6061 Hub Spacers will now come standard with hard black anodize.

HyTuf Gun-drilled axles offered at $825 pair

HyTuf NON Gun-drilled axles now offered at $575 pair

*axles have an approx. 3 week lead time

I know it's in here somewhere....what does it add to the track width.?

being the weld on version you adjust the housing tubes.

the bolt on version adds .250 to each side.

Sorry was a little tired when I wrote that,I'm referring to the welded on version. I've got a stock 12 bolt