Dreamin Tas
 

Skip,
The motor is really strong.. can't hardly get
on it except going to the finish line.. love the
big solid roller... .075 lift Motor.. it really hits

Bob

I'll just leave this here..........

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-g...gfNpmvt-X2.jpg

Dreamin Tas
 

Seig,
you are the man... I have been trying
for Months to get a good picture of this car
and then you sent this and I am speechless

thank you so much

Bob

Man, that is a GREAT picture of a BEAUTIFUL car...

Nice work Sieg... (and Bob for putting the car together)...

You're welcome Bob. :thumbsup:

How about one hard on the brakes?

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-c...cbc7XZZ-X2.jpg

Great pics of a nice looking Bird! Well done to Bob and Sieg!

Dreamin Tas
 

And I thought the GoPro stuff I looked at last
night was really cool... but these pictures are
better.. not bad for a 25 year old paint job
that cost me $1,100... Road rash is extra

Bob

Very cool

really great pictures, Scott. Thanks for sharing.

Dreamin Tas
 

Spent some time going thru all of Scott's
pictures... great shots of everyone... it also
shows what I kinda already knew... that the back
brakes were coming in way too late... need to put
a check valve in because they retract all the way
back each time... tried to shim them up before the
event but that did not resolve the issue.. didn't want
to do any brake line plumbing just before the event

Now to figure out which shots I want to order up
I guess it is time to take down or move over the
big picture of the mustang I don't own any more
hanging in my office.

Thanks again Scott as some have said the action
progression shots are very valuable

Bob

2 psi residual valve.

Do you have enough pressure going to them through the proportioning valve? Might dial it up and do some lockup testing.

Mine was lifting until I opened the prop valve more and then it started to pull the rear down slightly. Front to rear pad compounds are your other tuning tool. Run a caliper pressure calc to determine if you need different or matched pads front vs rear. I'm running a less aggressive pad in the rear to balance caliper force.

My visual impression was your rear brakes were on the smallish side, so I'm GUESSING the fronts may be overpowering them.

Are you running the factory delay valve? You could remove that, though mine seems to work fine with the delay valve.

Dreaming Tas
 

I have Wilwood 6 piston up front bp-20's and single piston out back
Cpp master with their proportioning valve.. we had to pull something
out to make it work for disc brakes... When I put the bp-20's out back
figured there was an issue... will try to replumb first but might just
put some 4 piston Wilwoods... was thinking the 6 pistons would go
to the back if I decide to go to 18" wheels.. Motor has been an issue
for a long time and that seems ok now so will move forward
Getting to some Falkins would also help but nothing in the rear 17" size

Thinking the Valve first then work my way down the road
It is evolving slowly

Bob

I'm running Hawk HP+ up front and BP-20's in the rear. Try the valve first.

Dreaming Tas
 

Valve first is what I am thinking also

thanks

Bob

Bob, were you really using your brakes out there, on the autocross, after the first turn? I hate that middle pedal . . .

It was fun hanging with you--if nothing else, your car will always look better than mine. I think people actually turn their cameras off when I run.

One day, when I grow up, maybe I'll be able to try out your neighborhood on the road course (we'll call this the Pantera level) . . .

I dunno Paul, I think patina is the the thing right now. No such thing as a "patina Pantera" though lol. I think you may be pleasantly surprised, that's my bet.....

Dreamin TAs
 

Paul,
Patina is in.. hell the Firebird paint job is 25 years old!!!
Your car really scoots on such little tires
I do ride the brakes alot when crossing.. trail brake the whole
thing.. going to fix them so they work a little better

I thought us coasting down the hill (pit racing and Bsing
was the best part :)

Just signed up for Good guys Pleasanton with the bird
and thinking of going to Vegas and running the track
this time as I think the straights are short enough for my gearing

Bob

Dreamin Ta's
 

So my buddy Harry checked out the web for info
on my Right Stuff rear brakes. Turns out the e brakes
that are not hooked up actually adjust things. When I
changed pads that were thinner it made things worse

I moved the e brake lever a bunch of times and it tightened
things up but not all the way. Bleed things and then we had full
contact. Took it for a drive tonight and it is amazing what real
Brakes can do... Too bad I didn't have them in the stop box

Oh we'll off to the list he gave me. Taller ball joints. ... Same
As a raised spindle... Then change sway bar ends at the top
to a heim instead of rubber. Modifying my old sway bar to
fit the Speedtech lower arms

Getting a few sizes of bump stops also to play with

Bob

Dreamin Ta's
 

Taller ball joints came today along
with a spare bronze gear. Still need to check
the old one.

Looks like I am going to cut off part of the sway
bar to make it stronger along with fixing the ends

Bob

Dreamin Ta's
 

Forgot the picture

Dreamin Ta's
 

Also received the new falkins for the front
17" 275's for $202 each shipped

Problem is no rear :G-Dub: 315's in 17"
They do make an 18" for $411 each shipped
Slightly larger and twice the price. Am I
Missing something???

Bob

It's a common size so they can charge that much.:headscratch:

Dreamin Tas
 

Cutting the Front Swaybar 1 1/2" and putting heims..
then moving the LCA mounts to the front.. Trying to
stiffen up the front without reinventing the wheel
Also installing left and right hand threads on the verticles so I can
adjust it without taking everything apart

Bob

Dreamin Ta's
 

So cut old bar and welded tabs. We were going to
weld lower tabs to get it aligned. Figured out the newer
Bar is wider and will line up good. Back to fabbing
This time should be quicker

Bob

Dreamin tas
 

Shortened and prepped the second front bar for welding
This bar is wider and will line up better.. Then off to the rear
bar to make it stronger

Bob

Dreamin Ta's
 

New radiator showed up today
The old one was 4 core that was over 25 years old
New griffin 2 row 1 1/4" tubes with 16" Spaul fans

Need to figure out the mounting since the shroud is
Going away

Bob

Very nice,,,let me know how it works.

Dreamin Ta's
 

Ok I figure since Sieg can post pics of
his lawn mower I can jump to the Pantera
Going to Texas world speedway near Houston
in a few weeks so need to get the black car ready

Been running 4" straight pipes where I can but after
the carb rebuild the motor likes some back pressure
Gotta run straight pipes cause there will be full race
panteras with theirs. So I bought some SS conicals that
go from 4" to 3". Since the pipes are coated I will have
Lupe a NorCal Shelby guy weld them up for me

I think these will sound pretty cool

Bob

WTF - Why would you ditch the shroud???

Dreamin Tas
 

I am talking about deleting the stock shroud which
actually holds the radiator in on a 70s bird

The new rad has its alum shroud that I am keeping
but will not fit inside the old plastic assembly

Bob

I wanna go on record as being 'pro' shroud.

:thankyou:


Seriously Bob, enjoying seeing the ole beast get some nice tweeks. :thumbsup:

A Pontiac without a shroud = a very hot Pontiac.

Bob I simply took a piece of 090 aluminum and bent it 90* to hold my radiator in place. I bolted it to the core support and used the stock upper radiator pads. It looks like a typical radiator cover. I even used it to hold the top of my electrical fans in place since I'm using the 4th gen fans. No issues with it moving around. I haven't pushed my car as hard as you have though. I don't see it becoming a problem though. Good luck getting the radiator in. Hope it works well for you.

Here's a picture

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/PICT0194.jpg

Dreamin Ta's
 

Trey
I was thinking that might be how I do it
I like the fact you covered the old metal completey
I was thinking about drilling the hell out of the existing
metal to lighten things up so I need something to
cover it so the air goes thru the radiator

Radiator project is on the back burner until i finish
getting the Pantera ready for Texas

Bob

The picture is misleading. I only cleaned up the core support and repainted it. The radiator cover replaced the shroud only. It begins right on top of the support like the shroud did.

Here we go. Here's and outside picture from the front that shows them as being two separate pieces

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/PICT0319.jpg

Eventually, I do plan to close out the front area to prevent air from going over the core support. I also intend to close up the nose area from underneath and make the front end more like a modern car that only brings air in through the bottom. All in time. For the present, I have no cooling issues and I really need to make an overflow tank. I think I'll work on that once I finish the exhaust.

Good luck getting the Pantera ready

Dreamin Ta's
 

Trey
I see it now. I think I may close it up to the nose
Bottom is covered by the spoiler that goes under the
radiator Not sure if that is good or bad as no air
passes up from below?? Was thinking
of angling the sides in front of the radiator that will have
some intakes that i can duct to the brakes but direct air
thru the radiator more effectively

Bob

I did this...

http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/...psmnhu2luu.jpg

Just need to paint the hardware BLACK!!!

looks good, Steve. Can you get a side shot?

I'm really happy with the one that Eric made for TOW:

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...psz1nuoboc.jpg