Beautiful!!

Its only been a few days since my last update, but it has been a busy few days!

-Installed Ram Clutch (part 98931HD, single disk ceramic/bronze disk material)

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...402_195541.jpg

-Installed engine into engine bay

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...402_200726.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...402_211934.jpg

-3M Scotchbrite brushed the intake manifold and valve covers, sprayed them with Dupli-color clear engine paint to seal them.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...403_171538.jpg

-Intake manifold was too tall at the throttle body mounting flange, so I had to cut it down and reshape the flange to clear the hood. I removed about half an inch from the flange, and flipped the throttle body upside down. It should actually work better this way, since my throttle cable comes from the driver side anyways.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...403_115940.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...403_183301.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...403_183531.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...403_183631.jpg

Brown Truck Santa showed up on Monday.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...404_162915.jpg

Continued...

Forgeline GZ3 wheels are one of my favorites. I also had a set on my '14 Viper TA, and love them. I did things a little different than most, went with a Hyper Silver powdercoated lip. I do not plan on having any chrome on this car, but wanted the appearance of silver color instead. All emblems and rear bumper will be done in a similar Hyper Silver color. Centers are Matte Graphite. I designed the centercap logo, and had Forgeline cut them for me.

Forgeline GZ3
18x8.0 front with 245/40-18 Toyo R888 tire
19x12.0 rear with 345/30-19 Toyo R888 tire (wheel has 6.0" lip depth)
Matte Graphite Center
Hyper Silver Lip and Inner

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...404_164235.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...404_164544.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...404_164627.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...404_164651.jpg

I put the wheels on the car, and pushed it outside for some photos. It was finally great to see the car on the ground again, with nice wheels. It has been over 2 years since it had decent wheels on it.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...405_142245.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...ro/HD-004w.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...ro/HD-005w.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...ro/HD-003w.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...ro/HD-008w.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...aro/HD-009.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...ro/HD-007w.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...ro/HD-006w.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...ro/HD-010w.jpg

Here is a fun before/after photo that I posted on my Facebook page.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...e-after-fb.jpg

Car is now moved to my 4-post lift, for final assembly.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...406_172250.jpg

Tony

Such a great build thread!! are you happy with the holley/hooker engine mounts? did you have to raise the trans tunnel at all for the T-56?

I plan to install the trans today or tomorrow. Already raised my trans tunnel, prior to deciding on the Holley/Hooker combo. I had the body shop install the SpeedTech tunnel plate.

thank you, I can not wait for more updates, the center caps area a GREAT touch!

Beautiful car. Is the convertible top frame modified to fit around the minitubs? Could you post some pics if it is.

Thanks,
Don

center caps are sweet! :thumbsup:

Not installed yet. It is not modified. If I have to, I'll hammer the tops of the mini-tubs to make sure the frame sits low, just like the factory did.

Awesome, just Awesome Tony! :wow: Nice work! I'll hit you up for a ride on HRPT

Wow wheels and tires look SWEET! I like thecustom centers. The tires tuck up nice in the wheel wells. Perfect stance.

Car's looking great. Looking forward to seeing it on power tours.

Car looks sick. As always, top notch work Tony.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Looking great, Tony. The center caps are a nice touch. Good luck!

Today, I got to play the role of novice sheetmetal fabricator. I had originally installed the SpeedTech transmission tunnel, back when I was planning to use the SpeedTech/ATS engine mounts and cross-member. But, I made the switch to the Holley/Hooker engine mounts and headers, because I wanted the engine to sit as low and far back as possible. Glad I did so, because of how close the intake manifold came to the hood, even in the lowest position.

But, as many of you know, parts from different brands do not play well together. The transmission tunnel did not line up with the new location of the shifter. I installed the transmission, and marked the holes from underneath, and drilled the four corners where the shifter plate is located. You can see I nailed it, with the SpeedTech tunnel plate having the corner right in the middle of the shifter. Typical. Haha

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...408_092743.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...408_100837.jpg

This would require me to fabricate a new shifter cover. I wanted to make sure it was removable, so that I could easily access the shifter and remove it, if needed.

Spot welds drilled from the SpeedTech tunnel cover. Cut the rear section of the tunnel cover off.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...408_101836.jpg

Here is where the T56 transmission sits, relative to everything. Yes, I got very good at installing this transmission, did it about 4 times yesterday.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...408_110336.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...408_110520.jpg

Opened up the hole to match the rear of the shifter plate location.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...409_110128.jpg

I made a template out of posterboard, then traced it onto some sheetmetal. I cut it out with my plasma cutter, and used a sheet metal brake and some hammering to make the bends.

Installed some 1/4-inch nut-serts into the floorboard.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...409_152314.jpg

Final fitment done. Time to install the transmission again, to mark the shifter hole placement.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...409_154010.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...409_154346.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...409_173045.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...409_173118.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...409_193630.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...409_194640.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...409_194652.jpg

Tony

Tony, could you get a side shot of the headers/ground clearance? From the picture you already posted they seem to tuck up pretty well. I'm wondering how much they hang under the subframe.

I took some photos for everyone. Those searching for combos may find this information useful. The fitment was absolutely perfect, everything cleared nicely and did not require any modifications. It has been very rare that something has fit properly on this project, almost should rename the car to Project "Nothing Fits". So, I'm glad to see that this combo actually fit perfectly. I had to use the Mast oil pan instead of the Holley Part 302-2, because I have a stroker crank, and the Holley does not clear the stroker. The Mast pan does clear the stroker crank. Quality-wise, however, the Holley was a much nicer casting, looked more OEM than the Mast pan does.

LS engine with 1998-2002 Camaro T56 transmission and bellhousing
Mast Motorsports LS Conversion Cast Oil Pan (Part# 401-111 )
Dipstick - GM (Part#12570788 )
Dipstick Tube - GM (Part# 12570787 )
LS Oil Pan Gasket (Can reuse factory) - GM (Part#12612350)
Hooker Transmission Crossmember (Part# 12626HKR )
Hooker Headers, 1-7/8" long tube, black ceramic coated (Part# 2276-3HKR )
Hooker Engine Adapter Mounts (Part# 12618HKR
Anchor Industries Clamshell Motor Mounts (Part# 2292)
Energy Suspension Motor & Trans Mount Urethane Bushings (Part# 3-1130G)
Detroit Speed Steering Gearbox ( 600 series ) w/ factory steering linkage

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...410_105121.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...410_104133.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...410_104401.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...410_104746.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...410_104657.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...410_104636.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...410_104551.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...410_104446.jpg

Rear of shifter, relative to the convertible trans tunnel bracing. Coupes will not have that brace behind the shifter. It was close, but still clears.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...410_105222.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...410_105048.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...410_104950.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...410_104938.jpg

Header collector to floor pan (driver side)

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...410_104905.jpg

Passenger side

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...410_104917.jpg

Tony

Great work Tony. Some good information with all of those part numbers.

Been a few weeks, made a lot more progress. Still hoping to complete by Power Tour.

Built an extension for my PCV oil catch can. The bracket it came with put it too close to the alternator. Billet can is from Elite Engineering, very nice quality.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...411_194710.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...411_195007.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...411_195207.jpg

Drilled a few holes in the underside of the intake manifold, for MAP sensor, PCV.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...412_154739.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...412_143327.jpg

Fully assembled the intake manifold w/ fuel rails and 60# injectors

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...412_195105.jpg

Test fit and cut the custom Foose console to fit. It will get a nice head unit with nav screen.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...413_113902.jpg

Started tearing apart the rear seat, to restore the spring frame, narrow it for the mini-tubs, and recover with Houndstooth.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...413_130641.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...413_190318.jpg

Here are the two radiator hoses I used. Part numbers shown are Dayco brand, found on ebay. Worked well for the Wegner + Griffin combo. Should work for any LSX setup with all coolant nipples on right side of engine and radiator.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...413_145501.jpg

Painted the front of my Griffin radiator black. I don't like seeing things through the grille, it is distracting and ruins photos.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...415_155802.jpg


Continued...

Built the entire fuel system. Started with the Tanks Inc fuel tank with the clipped corners. Very, very nice quality setup - especially for the price. Bonus, it was powdercoated a similar color as the lips on my wheels. The pump kit and level sending unit come in a bunch of pieces, you have to do some measuring, cutting, and assemble everything. Since this isn't a big-hp build, it was a relatively simple layout. -6 AN feed and return lines, using the C6 Corvette fuel filter/regulator combo. Return happens right at the rear axle, so no chance heating up the fuel while sitting in traffic.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...417_123424.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...417_131431.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...417_134816.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...417_154028.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...418_121327.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...423_170304.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...423_170108.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...417_155338.jpg

Built my own power steering hoses. Nobody makes a kit using black lines and fittings. -6 sized PTFE hose for the pressure side, and -6 AN hose for the low pressure return side. DSE 600 series steering box, I used the two -6 AN adapters that Detroit Speed sells for this box.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...420_143605.jpg

Replaced the plain rubber PCV hoses with braided AN hose.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...420_143131.jpg

Mounted my coil pack brackets on the lower section of the firewall, on both sides. Really nice area down there, with the Hooker headers offering a lot of clearance. I reconfigured the factory truck wiring harnesses to fit inside the brackets, kept everything compact as possible. I built my own spark plug wires using parts from Taylor Thundervolt (10.4mm). Those were a pain in the rear to strip, since they are essentially triple insulated. I'd go with MSD 8.5mm if I were to do it again.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...420_190058.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...420_194119.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...420_194157.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...420_194342.jpg

Continued...

Spark plug wires and routing:

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...427_193709.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...427_193718.jpg

Engine bay is completed, except for the custom intake tube I have to build. Then wiring the entire car.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...427_193734.jpg

Finished out the entire rear brake lines. Had to build a couple aluminum brackets, since the ones on my car were missing. I saved $45 in repro brackets, and ended up with some nice aluminum ones instead :)

For floorpan:

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...423_144055.jpg

For top of 12-bolt axle:

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...423_150758.jpg

Used DSE's braided steel flex line kit on top of the axle:

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...423_170200.jpg

Used the SUR&R lines, and added stone guard spring for the entire rear lines.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...423_170130.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...423_170342.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...423_170517.jpg

Here is my remaining list to do, as of a week ago. Already knocked a few of the items out:

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...421_080343.jpg

Tony

Looking excellent! I love how deceptively simple everything appears in the engine bay.

The list idea is always good, I've done that for years. I discovered it helps me stay focused on the tasks that matter and / or their sequence. For me I prefer to tape a copy to the car so I can cross things off as I complete them or add things as I encounter problems.

I have it taped to my beer fridge, right next to the car. So, if I feel I worked hard, I reward myself with a beer and crossing something out. :)

man I love seeing the updates on this. I am using a lot of similar parts so this has been extremely helpful. Looks great.

Very nice write up Tony!!! Thanx for taking the time to show us these details....

Great build, tasteful, well executed.

Enjoy in good health :cheers:

X2 on the details, really is helpful.

Where did you get those brass 90* fittings for the rear brakes, and the spring wrap?

My bulkhead connectors at that 90 are NPT threaded. So, I used these:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/90-Deg...ing,28392.html

Gravel Guard Spring is part# RSD-GGS316S-20 on Summit Racing

Tony

Thanks so much for the detailed pics and all the great info.

Thanks Tony, much appreciated.

Will the gravel guard install over the flare?

Did you get the convertible top installed? I am trying to decide if I should minitub my 69 convertible.

Thanks
Don

He needs to update this thread. He's put some miles on this car since the last update.

I installed the vert roof frame and fabric myself. Not difficult, but very time consuming. It required a lot of patience, since you have to keep making adjustments over and over and over again. I'll update the thread, car is done now (since June).

How did the frame fit with the minitubs. I remember you said it would need some reshaping of the tub. Could you post a pic?

Thanks,
Don

x2 I also am very interested.

The tops of each wheel tub needed some "persuasion" via the tip of a ball-peen hammer. I know I took some pics of it, but will have to dig them up. There is only the lower bar that contacts the top of the wheel tubs (even the OEM wheel tub flange is hammered over). It was easy, just fold the frame down and trace an outline of where the frame contacts the top of the wheel tub. Push frame out of the way, then hammer the marked area down. You can do a little at a time. Probably not even a 1/4" deep in the worst areas. once you get the lower frame to go down without touching anything, you will know it is done.

Thanks Tony.