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Let's try not to muck up one of the most well done threads on Lateral G shall we gents? :cheers: |
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This is hallowed ground. :thankyou: |
Epic update Terry!
Quick question: 12lb weight savings on steering arms? Seems like a lot. :cheers: |
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jydracing, about dropped sreeering arms
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I'm gonna guess the 12 pounds takes into account the difference in hardware for the tie rod, the tie rod spacers and using a smaller rod end its self.
The Vorslag guys share so many little details I doubt they are trying to pull any smoke and mirrors. I appreciate seeing a car like this come together, thanks guys! Dave |
69 protouring
Ok this thing is so bad I want two of
them as long as they are black:) Had a 69 Z28 when I was a kid but nothing even close to this Beast Great fabrication and thought process Give me two more lifetimes to even get close Bob |
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My best guess is they save around 4 lbs per steering arm and around 1 lbs per hardware setup. That saves you 5 lbs per side or 10 lbs total.
Maybe this change also allowed them a different tie rod design that saved another 0.75 lb per side. That'd be 11.5 lbs total. These are total guesses but that doesn't seem unreasonable. |
or it was a rough estimation or maybe a typo? Who knows for sure.
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Funny thing, I just don't care.
I want them to build my new arms. Cause I have the same and bump steer all over the place. Trying to get a real alignment's a boat load of fun, too. Rock on with your bad self! |
Shop work
Car looks amazing very similar to what Desold design in Texas did on the 68 Camaro!
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Terry & Crew,
Any updates on this one? |
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BUT, you can follow the gallery to see updates. New photos are added every time we complete another task. https://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Project...ring/i-wW8hfbk https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G0565-M.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G0153-M.jpg |
Thanks Jason. You guys are coming along.
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Project Update December 1st, 2016: We've been plugging away on the 69 Camaro track car - a project that still doesn't have a name yet - throughout 2016, at a pace dictated by the owner. My last post was in April that caught us up to December 2015 work, but I've been scrambling to keep up with forum project threads, as we have about a dozen threads for cars we're tracking, updating, and working on. We also just wrapped up our best month of November ever, inside of our best year (to date) in 12 years of business, so its been bonkers around here
https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9367-L.jpg The picture above shows the Camaro a bit beyond where this build thread update ended, but only by a few weeks - pic was shot in May 2016. This 2-part forum update covers work completed from January through April 2016. I'm writing these updates pretty fast and furious, but still trying to avoid mistakes like I had made time (see my 'mea culpa', below). There is lot to cover, so let's get started where we left off last time - the front end. MORE FRONT SPLITTER & VALENCE WORK This front/splitter section is the "business end" of this Camaro, and a place where a considerable number of hours have been spent getting both the aero and aesthetics "right". Last time I showed some of the fabrication work on the dual plane aluminum front splitter and valance. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G6483-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G6744-S.jpg The lower valance panel (above) was based on an OEM piece but stamped in aluminum. It had to be heavily modified to incorporate the lower grill openings and cooler inlets for both the oil and p/s coolers as well as brake cooler inlet ducting. This modified panel and the custom parts below were both tack welded and now needed lots of final welding, sanding, and finish work. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9474-L.jpg The front splitter assembly was built in stages and the lower valance and cooler inlets are joined together above and below the upper splitter plane. Almost everything here is made in aluminum and bolts together with discretely placed hardware, including the canard sections shown below. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G6740-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G6725-S.jpg These canards will help direct air spilling off the upper plane where we want, and complete the "lines" of the splitter. Admittedly these parts are part downforce, part styling, but without dozens of hours in a wind tunnel I cannot tell you if these are perfected or not - but this ain't an F1 car. We will do some aero tests in our initial track testing with the customer, of course. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9483-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9478-S.jpg Ryan spent hours and hours final welding the initially tacked aluminum structures of the lower valance and grill openings. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9477-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...1G6771_a-S.jpg Then he spent hours and hours grinding, sanding, welding, and sanding some more. These components are 100% metal worked, no bondo or putty tricks. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9499-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9494-S.jpg Yes, if there is a major crash it will take work to repair. But so would any custom metal creation built by any other shop. Does it make sense to pull molds off of these finished parts to make "easier to replace" composites? Mold making and composite work is not our specialty, but I have asked others who specialty this is - and they say "expensive". Such is the way of custom car building. FUEL CELL + MOUNTING After discussions with the customer about safety, we decided to move from an aftermarket fuel tank to a proper fuel cell. This had a lot to do with the projected track speed and capabilities this car will have, and the customer wanted a SAFE car in the end. A fuel cell also just fits a build of this scale and magnitude. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8137-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_0191-S.jpg Ryan mapped out the space allocated for the cell and we ordered this custom aluminum ATL cell can and bladder. This was spec'd with the internal surge tank and pumps for ease of plumbing. The surge tank is crucial to keep the fuel pump inlet submerged at all times, even at low fuel levels and 1.5 g or higher loads. continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_0159-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_0199-S.jpg After waiting a number of weeks, the fuel cell was built and shipped to us at "Vorshilang", then we began discussing rear diffuser shapes and placement of the cell with the owner. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8384-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8387-S.jpg Ryan then laid out this fuel cell "cage" that he built out of square tubing. This will act as both a stable mount and a protective structure for the fuel cell. He even custom machined threaded bungs that are welded into the upper perimeter of the "fuel cell cage" which the upper lid of the fuel cell bolts into. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8419-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8422-S.jpg The fuel cell "cage" and the cell were both then installed into the trunk area between the frame rails. The lower valance panel even ties into this structure, replacing the structure normally in the spare tire well and factory trunk floor. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8424-L.jpg Gratuitous underskirt shot... 345mm Hoosiers are BIG. BODY REMOVED & CHASSIS WELDED After the fuel cell was added the body was removed from the chassis, which was still tack welded to the welding table. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8446-L.jpg Removing the body was fairly easy, and involved cutting a few tack welds, then 4 people to spread and lift the flimsy shell off of the chassis and around the cage. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_0250-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_0251-S.jpg The scooped out section of unibody above is all that was left of the original 1969 Camaro, and of that the rear fenders & taillight panel had already been replaced with new steel. The roof was looking pretty sketchy but we left it to our paint & body experts to tell us what else needed to be replaced. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8458-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8448-S.jpg After some minor work on the nearly-finished chassis while it was on the table, it was time to break it all down. The wheels, brakes and suspension came off. Then the drivetrain was removed and the the Ford 9" dropped out of the back. Last the seat, steering column, and coolers came out. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8561-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8579-S.jpg With all of the geometry of the frame components checked and rechecked, and now everything out of the way, many hours were spent final welding the main chassis and cage. First Ryan started welding with the chassis still on the table (above). continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8864-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8871-S.jpg Then the chassis came off the table and he spent more hours welding, grinding, and finishing the bare chassis. It was both light and rigid enough to move around on its side to get to all of the hard-to-reach places, to finish weld every joint without having to do overhead welding on your back (which is hard). https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8591-L.jpg The main chassis was then weighed. I mean come on, its Vorshlag - you would expect this. We will show the merged body-chassis weight in the next forum update. Speaking of weights, I need to right a wrong... FACT CHECKING MY POSTS - MEA CULPA! I've been doing forum write-ups like this for 16+ years, and have been fanatic about keeping my posts as factual and honest as humanly possible. I have also been a freak about weighing automotive components for over 20 years, and had an extensive "weights page" on my first automotive website starting in 1996. This was full of weight data, pictures of parts on digital scales, etc. So much "bad tech" about weights gets thrown around on the interwebs that it makes me a little nuts about "fixing the internet" wrongs sometimes. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_1573-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_1544-S.jpg In my previous update to this thread I mentioned something that was "non-factual" about the replacement tubular steering arms. Ryan built these to replace the solid steel units that came on the car (which were heavier, had some sketchy welds, and incorrect bump steer geometry for the steering rack we chose). I felt them both in my hands, spit-balled a number, and actually wrote "these new steering arms save 12 pounds." Oh boy, I'm now well on my way to becoming a politician. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_1545-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_1543-S.jpg Of course several of you sharp eyed readers called my bluff, and I had to go weigh these parts. Then eat some crow when proven wrong. I "eyeballed" the weights and threw out a number that was nonsense. I thought I remembered weighing these arms, but I "mis-remembered" that fact. These tubular steering arms saved all of 1.8 pounds for the pair, not 12 pounds. So this is me admitting my mistake, showing the proof, and promising to try to never making that kind of error again. I'm sorry folks! #NotFakeNews UNIBODY THEN CHASSIS BLASTED, REPAIRED, PRIMED AND PARTIALLY PAINTED Our crew reassembled the naked Camaro chassis with the drivetrain, wheels, and suspension for the next phase of work. It would also look more presentable for our 2016 Open House we had on Feb 27th. Lots of people came to this event to see the shop, eat the food, get their free SCCA annual tech.... but many said they came just to see the Camaro. It was "naked and afraid" but didn't disappoint. https://photos.smugmug.com/Car-Shows...B61G8896-L.jpg Meanwhile I had delivered the unibody to our paint and body experts at Heritage in Sherman, Texas. I am usually delivering or picking up cars there a couple of times a month. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_0321-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_0327-S.jpg With the unibody sculpted down to the bare minimum needed there were now exposed areas that were pretty rusty. Some of these are normally not painted when the car was built, so that's to be expected. The underside of the roof was pretty nasty, with headliner residue and some light rust. Other sections were clearly rusted and needed replacement. Of course it was raining when we loaded the semi-bare metal tub into our trailer... https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2370-M.jpg Sadly we never weighed the stripped unibody, but two people could move it easily. I took the pictures below at Heritage after the body had been bead blasted on all of the sections I asked them to (everything but the rear fenders), but before any primer or paint went back on. This car will be painted in 2 stages - some sections that the cage/frame cover up on the unibody needed final paint now. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2447-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2445-S.jpg They left the E-coat on the new rear fenders and tail panel, but everything else that was original steel was mostly in raw steel form, from work done by a previous shop who blasted some sections. Heritage concentrated heavier blasting around some areas on the tub that had a bit of "tin worm" or which had visible body filler - like on the front and rear window frames and A-pillars. continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2440-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2441-S.jpg After blasting it was worse than we had feared, and both the front and rear window header sections (the structure in the roof under the outer roof skin, which helps hold the shape of the opening) were rotten. They had been slathered in big globs of body filler, which was all that was holding them together. Blasting exposed this cheap trick done by a previous shop. Heritage said the roof was toast - but they they would find a new roof panel and replace it before the next time we stopped by with the chassis. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_3050-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_0445-S.jpg Having the rolling chassis together was handy in that it allowed us to transport it to a nearby shop who has a 4 wheel laser alignment rack - which we borrow/rent often. Alignment racks are expensive and are a "net money loser" unless you can keep it loaded up with dozens of "regular alignments" every week. We just don't have the space, manpower, or customers for that. With the rolling chassis on the rack, Ryan and Brad were able to check the gross camber & caster up front, and axle squareness out back before everything on the front suspension was burned in. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_1542-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_1546-S.jpg The rolling chassis came right back to Vorshlag. With the laser alignment numbers matching our digitally measured settings and calculations, Ryan then got to work and final welded the front suspension mount sections. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_1519-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_1547-S.jpg In case the caster or camber settings were way off, we could have more easily moved the front-to-back placements of the control arm mounts. Now that the numbers were proven to be where we planned, the double-shear mounting plates were added to the Lower Control Arms and final welded in place. A bolt-in rear crossmember brace will be added at a later date, to bridge the opening at the rear - making that brace removable allows for easy oil pan access with the engine still in the car. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2722-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2720-S.jpg Heritage had a new OEM roof panel sourced, added tubing to the unibody to keep it square, cut out the rotten roof, and welded the new structure in place. To keep the blasted raw metal of much of the unibody from flash rusting, Heritage sprayed the entire unibody with a white sealer/primer, inside and out. The underside of the roof was sanded and smoothed, primed, blocked, then painted with the glossy base & clear finish coats in GM Arctic White - which is a pure white with no pigment. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...8_narrow-L.jpg We had Heritage bodywork our 1992 Corvette race car (which is for sale!) and paint it with this same GM Arctic White base/clear over the summer. Like we plan to do on the 1969 Camaro, they shot our C4 inside and out with this paint, and it looks great. Its brighter than any other hue - its brighter than the sun! - well, almost. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2741-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_0583-S.jpg The partially painted unibody waited back at the shop while Heritage sprayed some sections of the chassis. At this point the chassis was final welded and 95% of the cage was in place, including all sections near the roof, A-pillar, or C-pillars. Basically everything except the door bars and harness bar. The harness bar will be added to the cage once the final seating position is in place and we measure the owner's shoulder heights in those seats (more on that below). The door bars in place make it tough to get into and out of the cabin, so even though those have been built they will be final welded in towards the end of the build - to make the next phases of construction easier. continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_0559-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2728-S.jpg Ryan marked the chassis with tape and arrows showing which areas of the cage were close to the body and that we wanted finish sanded, painted and clear coated. The top of the cage and anything that comes close to the unibody skin. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2778-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2780-S.jpg They did exactly as we asked and painted just the sections of the cage and chassis that we marked. As you can see the lower, outer frame sections were also primed and painted. These will be hidden inside of the outer skin of the rockers on the unibody. The lower rockers were "pocketed" to fit around the frame rails earlier, and those pockets on the unibody were finish painted as well. Nobody will ever see those areas, but they won't be bare metal dripping rust later, either. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_0657-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_0656-S.jpg At this point I had picked up the semi-painted rolling chassis and it and the unibody were ready to go back together for the last time. Once these were joined they wouldn't be coming apart again. I will wait and show that chassis-to-body merge next time. NEW SEAT ORDERED Choosing an appropriate, safe, and good fitting racing seat is one of the most critical choices in a race car build. This is where 90% of your tactile feedback with the car comes from - when you are strapped into a form fitting, fixed back racing seat. A good seat reduces driver fatigue greatly - after doing a hard track session in any car with OEM seats and 3-point belts I'm always tired just from holding on. You have to use your arms, legs, back, and shoulders to support your body in a flat seat with no harnesses. Even the best sports cars with OEM seats are a poor substitute for proper racing seats. Fixed back race seats even MAKE YOU FASTER on track. Allow me to explain. https://photos.smugmug.com/Racing-Ev...DSC_3692-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Racing-Ev...DSC_3699-S.jpg On a track test day in September I drove 3 separate cars over 3 twenty minute sessions. One was the 5th Gen Camaro above, which had Cobra Suzuka racing seats and Scroth harnesses. They held me in easily and it made driving this 3800 pound Pony Car around track a breeze. I got out after that session with a blisteringly fast lap time, which shocked all of us. The car was quick but more importantly, the seats and harnesses let me push the car more easily, so I could wring out more potential from the car. I had more fast laps within a tighter range of time, and exited the car with little wear and tear on my body. Granted this Camaro is not stock, but it is still much heavier and on narrower (305mm Hankook RS3) tires than the two "super cars" below. https://photos.smugmug.com/Racing-Ev...DSC_3807-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Racing-Ev...IMG_3668-S.jpg On that same day I also drove these two Corvettes above, both on similar compound but wider tires (285F/335R MPSS) than the Camaro. All three cars made 1.2 to 1.25 g lateral and 1.0 to 1.1 g under braking. The C6 Z06 was a nightmare to drive compared to the Camaro, and I was flailing around in the cockpit like a rag doll. It has one of the worst stock seats I can remember, and my lap times suffered (even 600 pounds lighter and with an LS7 under hood, my Z06 lap times were almost a second slower than the Camaro) with inconsistency. The C7 Grand Sport had optional factory seats that were "better" than the C6 bits, and even has proper shoulder harness holes, but still a 3-point belt. I once again was flopping around and left a lot on the table (according to predictive lap timer), and only had a few laps quicker than the Camaro. Why? I think it was all in the seats. Good racing seats and harnesses make driving more consistent and easier. I was exhausted after both Corvette stints, and pretty sore the next day. Try putting in "time trial" laps in cars that pull 1.25 g with crap seats and belts, and you'll know what I'm talking about. continued below |
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Seat mounting to the chassis is also critical to safety. The positioning of the seat determines your sight lines, comfort, and safety. We can handle all of that, but what about the seat itself? https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_1126-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/..._DSC6156-S.jpg If you have the grip levels of massive Hoosiers (left), you better have appropriate seats to deal with that (right) I wouldn't think about running a car with big Hoosiers (1.3 to 1.5 g) on a stock seat. We needed to pick a better seat for this Camaro, as the capabilities and grip levels would likely be higher than any modern super car and even most race cars. 345mm Hoosiers make a boat load of grip, and I know from running these in the past, you better be strapped into a GOOD seat if you want to be in complete control. High leg bolsters, shoulder support, and a halo around your helmet. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G0239-M.jpg This LaJoie seat was one of 3 seats provided by the customer when he brought the car to us. It is an aluminum, 2-piece seat marketed largely to the circle track crowd. We all felt that while the better versions of these look beautiful, works of art, they fell short. As an aside, it just didn't fit the theme the customer requested, a serious track car using modern sports racing components, drivetrain, tires and aero. There's very little circle track influence here. Also, this car had to have a second seat in it that was somewhat similar to the driver's seat - and buying another LaJoie was not in the cards. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G1064-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G0260-S.jpg The build also came with a pair of brand new Sparco EVO II and EVO III seats. The EVO III is huge, and was too big for the owner. The EVO II fit him well, and we sell and install a lot of these (and just put one in my NASA TTD prepped BMW E46), but this project needed something more serious. The lack of lateral shoulder and head support was a deal breaker on this level of build. Yes, we sell all manner of racing seats, and I keep about a dozen in my showroom for "test sitting". Nothing beats sitting in a seat to see how you fit. One of the most respected names in racing seats is Racetech, but we had never bought a seat from them before. They do some of the best tests and their "crash test" share videos like this side impact test rig video. That seat back movement in a side impact made us look at their 119 series of seats. https://photos.smugmug.com/Product-P...8555_150-L.jpg I'm trying not to be sales-y here, and if you look on our website you won't even see Racetech listed, but the features are hard to ignore. They make an unprecedented FOUR sizes of the 119 seat - combining normal and tall heights, plus normal and wider widths. https://photos.smugmug.com/Product-P.../S/Sizes-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Product-P...ch-chart-S.jpg For the owner of this car we had him test sit in some seats, send in several body measurements as dictated by Racetech, and then looked at the sizing chart and determined he needed the normal width in the tall height - the 4119THR. https://photos.smugmug.com/Product-P...8540_150-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Product-P...B61G8548-S.jpg These 119 series seats are a bit pricey, and the carbon fiber versions (9119) are extremely expensive, so we went with the 4119 composite seat range for the driver's side seat. The passenger will get one of the Sparco EVO seats, but there won't likely be too many laps with a right seat filled at 10/10ths pace. WHAT'S NEXT? This 2-part write-up took us from January through April. A lot of time was spent with the chassis or body at the painters, and any of you that have built a project like this would understand how long paint work takes - even partial paint or priming work. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_1780-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_2042-S.jpg Next time I will show the body going back into the frame, then the aluminum flat bottom undertray panels and floors being built, the exhaust routing through the tunnel, the dash and cowl work, then firewall and sheet metal fab up front. Lots to cover, hopefully I'll have time this weekend to write another segment to catch us up closer to real time. Cheers, |
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This thing is amazing! Great work
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Best thread updates ever!
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Excellent work! Will there be a tin floor in addition to the aluminum under-body stuff? Sorry for the dose of ignorance here . . .:headscratch:
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_2054-M.jpg There are two "floors" being built here. First is the flat bottom undertray, shown here. This series of panels goes from the tip of the lower splitter plane to the rear axle section, where the diffuser will begin. Lowers under car drag, helps create downforce at the rear with the diffuser. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_2395-M.jpg These undertray panels are semi-structural in nature, and being built like how a Daytona Prototype would be. Some sections are bonded and riveted in place (outers) and other panels (centers and splitter) are removable for service. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_2369-M.jpg The transmission sits a hair under the bottom plane, but that was unavoidable with the way it was ordered. Most race transmissions like this (straight cut gear G-Force) can be ordered with a 90° rotation, which lowers the CG. Requires some different internal oiling tricks, a different bellhousing, and a different shifter. What we have to work with needs to be installed in the traditional manner, with the shifter linkage connecting on the driver's side. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_2398-M.jpg As you can see the square tubing that makes up the floor structure has the undertray panels mounted underneath. The driver and passenger's feet will sit on another set of partial panels called a "false floor". There is one section already built on the driver's side near the pedal box. The open span behind that needs to be filled, but the next one back will have the seat mounted between the square tubes, lower than otherwise possible. No false floor is needed from there back. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_2544-M.jpg There are lots and lots of aluminum panels throughout the rest of the interior. The tunnel (which will be double walled in some areas, for insulation), the engine firewall, the firewall around the massive dry sump oil tank, and the rear panels. https://photos.smugmug.com/Car-Shows...IMG_1375-M.jpg I'll cover more of this in my next update, which will likely be after the PRI show which is later this week. Jason is already on his way there now and 3 more of us fly out in 2 days. Gonna be cold in Indy, but we always see some cool new bits there. As usual I am live posting hundreds of product images from the show floor, which you can see on my personal facebook page (which can be "followed", or friended if you are an obvious car person). Otherwise you can see my photo gallery for the show in my next post here. https://photos.smugmug.com/Car-Shows...IMG_1490-M.jpg If anyone is going to be at PRI and gets an invite to the FM3 Marketing kart shootout, Vorshlag will have a team there as well. I'll probably break my hip... Cheers, |
Wow that is just sick.
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Thanks for the awesome detail, Terry and Co! I, probably like many others here, study these pics like a kid does his first (and second, and third) girly mag. The detailed explanations make it all that much better. I'll continue to use the Vorshlag work as an ongoing directive example (if not obsession) for the mess in my own garage (to no one's profit but the people I buy parts from) . . .:idea:
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DAMN that cage is serious business!
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Awesome build! Terry you might had already posted this info but how far back was the engine set?
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Vorshlag 69
Love the exhaust.. was thinking
of mating my firebird exhaust in the trunk and punching it out where the license plate goes.. similar to my Pantera exhaust Will be watching where yours ends up Bob |
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That's a good question - we didn't have the car here at any time with the OEM location. Its at least 18" setback, if not more. I will measure another 1st gen soon, then see where we are relative to that. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9364-M.jpg We moved the driver's seat into the back seat area, because the drivetrain is set so far back. All part of the plan. Quote:
The exhaust on this car is terminating in a different position than that... https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_2016-M.jpg ...these two exhaust pipes will exit into the front of the diffuser. Blown diffuser. Will show more soon. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G1237-M.jpg The front hood ducting is fairly elaborate but looks pretty amazing when its all assembled. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G1184-M.jpg I'll more of that soon. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G1200-M.jpg Very soon. |
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I don't mean to derail this thread or take away from what is an amazing build, but if this is a Pro Touring car, my GTO is a 1932 Ford.
Andrew |
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Ho Le Fook! Nice work and insane project!
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So much cool going on in this build. |
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