Cooler or you just got tired of listening to charley whine about rock chips on that $weet paint job :G-Dub: lol

BTW agree on Marks latest build - I'm all in. Hey Holley Chop Chop on the LT/DSE swap system - this crate motor has been out for how long now??

Repair? are these repops?

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Danville-Dukes,2247.html

I can't get the math to add up on this, what size tire do you run?

Great build, I love it!
Ragards, Joakim

Nessy ---- the one that is / was on Gary's '32 Sedan is an ORIGINAL.... and they're ever so slightly different than the repops. So I had the original repaired and also modified the repop and sent them both to Ed.... he can choose which he wants to run on the car. I'm still searching for an original replacement.... So far - even Brizio can't find one.

Well hope Ed takes it easy on you - those Louisiana expansion joints were jarring.

This latest from Mark is plain Jane initially then whoosh - gone. great build/fit and finish - perhaps the Thompson motors prior to this led the way for LT4 development - amazing bang for buck motor - hey vendors hurry up with a swap kit already lol

Seats
 

What brand/model of seats were used in this car?

Did it not make it to OSCI ?

Glad I got to see this car in person. It was definitely one of my favorites in the Optima Invitational lineup.

I was wondering the same. I see his name in the participant list, but he didn't score in any events, so I presume he didn't run?

The car developed a radiator leak on the way to SEMA. I chose not to try putting goo in the radiator. If it fixed it I would have to flush it out. If it did not work I still would need to fix it and flush it out.

The safest thing to do was bow out and fix it correctly.

Mark

Bummer..............good call though!

not that you need any of us to tell you that.

Agreed, although sorry to hear it...

At last.....................a bunch of pics!

http://www.superchevy.com/features/1...g-1969-camaro/

Thank you for posting that. Very cool

Mark,

First of all Love your cars! Hope to see a DETAILED build on this car!

I am an the midst of installing an LT4 in a 71 Firebird. I see you went vacuum brake booster for the brakes. The instructions that came with the LT4 said use a vacuum pump as using a vacuum brake booster will have issues under boost?

What did you do? Pump or no Pump? If you used a pump which one did you use?

Thanks,
Stan

Mark, or anyone else following along. Thoughts on PCV plumbing for a dry sump LT4?

I see this.

http://image.superchevy.com/f/144013...-build-020.jpg

Earlier in this thread there was a pic of what appeared to be -10? lines on the valve covers.

From what I can gather, GM ran a line from the air intake tube and a line from each valve cover to the dry sump tank. Is the Pro Vent on Gunner in line between the valve cover and tank or intake and tank?

......or is the Pro Vent the fresh air intake/blow off for the PCV system period.

The instructions are wrong. You don’t need a vacuum pump. The vacuum pump is for cold start on the stock car. So don’t park you car on a hill and deplete your booster and take off quickly on a 0 degree day and you will be fine....

It is Engineeringly correct yes. Do you have to have it with a stock LT4 with out cats. No.

Mark


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Mark (Stielow's) new ride??
 

I ran 2 -8 line off the valve covers and tee them together to a -10 line. That line goes to the top of the Peterson dry sump tank. Then a hose (I think 3/4) comes off the top of the tank to the Pro Vent 100 (3931070793). Then a -10 line comes off the Pro Vent to the inlet tube behind the MAF sensor.

I have experimented with the other Pro Vent 100 part numbers and that is the one that has worked for me.

The Pro Vent has a drain with a one way check valve that drains back into the dry sump tank. (I need to look up the part number it is a Mann &Hummel part)

The dry sump tank has been modified to add 4 extra quarts. This is so the oil level is not as critical because you are checking it with a dip stick.

I know it is a expensive system. But it works great. I’ve done this on 3 cars so far and I really like it. Keep the engine bay oil free and keeps the engine happy.

Hope this helps


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Thanks Mark, that is really helpful.

Mann Hummel part no for the check valve is 2400843621.

That will works with Pro Vents 100/150/200.

Here is the catalog if anyone else wants it. https://www.mannfiltersrus.com/pub/m...ilation_EN.pdf


Now I have more questions, it appears that you only need the check valve if you are draining back above the oil level.....?


If we plumb the Pro Vent as Mark described in the clean side, between the air intake and the dry sump tank, which way is the air flowing? Normal operation, fresh air flows through the air filter, past the MAF, into a hose through the Pro Vent and into the tank. No need for an air oil separator in situation.

Under heavy load, that air flow reverses, out of the tank into the Pro Vent up the hose and into the intake tube. We don't want oil there at all.

Do we follow the arrows on the pro vent for for the former or the latter?

This may become painfully obvious when I hold it in my hand.

Thanks again!

Thanks for posting the catalog. I also have other questions that will require some thought. I am using a large, 5-stage pump that will pull a lot of vacuum. The pump manufacturer suggested I use a vacuum regulator (available from Peterson) to control the vacuum at 12-14 hgM. I am concerned that if I ever reached a positive crankcase pressure situation (my engine builder says I won't) there would be no pressure relief and I might blow oil through the seals. Peterson also makes a check valve designed to release pressure (back to the tank) for that condition, but I'm not sure I need it. My motor goes on the dyno Thursday so maybe I will get a better feel for how I should proceed after I see what the crankcase vacuum looks like. Any thoughts from you or Mark? Thanks

Pappy

I'm glad you guys are getting this figured out for me so it makes my job easier when I'm ready to install this.

I did call Sled alley a while back and asked them if they could build me the dry sump tank to match Mark's and they said I'd need to send them my car, but would be more than happy to.