The frame mounts are .110 mild steel, so there’s a nice .220 bearing surface for the mounting bolts. The cradle is .180 aluminum.

The idea is straightforward enough - build an additional cradle for the engine so the frame mounts can resist both twist and the spreading force from the weight of the engine in place. I like to use overlay plates and a skeleton construction since it’s a good way to shed 15-20% of the mass. The cradle didn’t need to be steel, and was a good chance to use aluminum to get some added rigidity with a minimal weight penalty.

David

Let's catch up.

The footwells are welded and blended, the engine frame mounts are built and welded, the Rev1 engine cradle is built and installed, and I finally got to start in on the inner chassis rails. Oh, and I'm also getting around to converting the TR6060 into a Magnum.

In order - welded up using regular 70S-2, and some silicone bronze smooths and blends the transition to from the foot well to the torque box and frame rail. I really like working with that stuff.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zy...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3i...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iO...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6O...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q7...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d6...=w1024-h768-no

The first engine cradle design didn't work as I intended, so this is Rev1. I'll ditch a design that isn't working before making do. The purpose of this assembly is to tie the mounts and rails together and provide another integration point for the front shear plate.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Rf...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xw...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TD...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UR...=w1024-h768-no

My settings: 190A, 25% balance, 200Hz, ~22* 2% La grind, 20 cf, 1/8" 5356 filler, a slight preheat, hot cup of coffee:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/86...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dk...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nT...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kF...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HI...=w1024-h768-no

David

For workspace reasons, I had put off welding the inner chassis bits until the footwells and engine cradle were done.

Those sub-projects are done, and so we move on:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y2...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8p...=w1024-h768-no

More lateral reinforcements coming:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KB...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Fz...=w1024-h768-no

Very close to stabbing the powertrain and beginning work on the trans mount:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hD...=w1024-h768-no

But first - complete this conversion. The TR6060 bellhousing/front cover is removed and a Magnum cover is in its place along with the tail housing. The 3.01-related input shaft is 3/16" too long, but a 1/4" bellhousing spacer should correct that. I'll do a more detailed post once complete:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hT...=w1024-h768-no

Lots of good evenings and weekends ahead.

David

Amazing work and project!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good!

Nice work.

You've got some skills....nice!!

Thank you. It's been a long time in the making, and I'm pushing myself hard post-SEMA to make significant progress this year. Goals, not dreams.

Thank you, sir.

Much appreciated. I've taken my unfair share of inspiration from the builds on here.

Building them as I go. I have really good mentors, and that makes the difference between "self taught" and "coached."

David

Can’t believe I never noticed you had your build on here. I follow it on ck5 hah (classicstyle).

Works looking great, welding is really getting nice!

Another good few weeks of work, and a decent series of milestones.

Lateral chassis bits are burned in.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z3...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V7...=w1024-h768-no

Just about ready to stab the engine and trans.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4w...=w1024-h768-no

First, need to keep the input shaft from an interference fit with the crank. Quicktime RM199 1/4" bellhousing spacer leaves only a minor amount of contact, and just requires some light clearancing.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TA...=w1024-h768-no

Maybe 1/32" of interference remaining.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PM...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4-...=w1024-h768-no

Next up in the conversion - shifter rail. Here's the shorter TR6060 rail.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kX...=w1024-h768-no

Two position magnum takeoff.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k3...=w1024-h768-no

Only thing really remaining to convert is the output shaft and pump mechanism, but it's setup enough for mockup purposes.

Maximum effort shifter cover.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5O...=w1024-h768-no

Because a $4.95 stamped steel cover is boring.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ec...=w1024-h768-no

Stabbed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M5...=w1024-h768-no

Just enough rear angle for the heads to drain.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X1...=w1024-h768-no

You can clearly see the 5* angle built into the magnum bell and tail housing.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Se...=w1024-h768-no

Engine cradle detail.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mG...=w1024-h768-no

That's about 1" of clearance.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QL...=w1024-h768-no

David

Finally able setup driving position.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dR...=w1024-h768-no

Shifter is exactly in line with the steering wheel - just where I want it - no bent shifters in this muscle car.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W0...=w1024-h768-no

Pretty proud of this one - midengine, LS, Charger.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/x9...=w1024-h768-no

Setup for a flat bottom, with only the oil pan and bellhousing dipping a couple of inches below the rocker beams.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rX...=w1024-h768-no

A friend performing driver position duties.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NN...=w1024-h768-no

The work continues.

David

Eyes on the apex. We're coming into a big turn.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cg...=w1234-h970-no

The Willomet Charger is getting a massive infusion of pro-touring DNA: namely a new 4x2 chassis and some select systems from Chassisworks. Specifically, we'll use the watts link Fab9 rear, and the aluminum upright front system.

It's a great leap forward for the project, and I'm excited to get started. As usual, the entire process will be on display here, and I’ll post separately as to where you can find it on YouTube. Yep, I’m going to video the whole darned thing for y’all - got my fancy GoPro and everything, so brace yourselves.

Let's get to measuring. In total, I needed to complete two worksheets and markup one assembly drawing:

• Front crossmember and suspension worksheet - determines the width of the crossmember, rack and pinion, standard or wide track A arm, and a handful of small assembly details
• Rear suspension and Fab9 worksheet - determines wide of the rear frame rails and axle housing and the location of suspension pickup points
• 68-72 Chevelle assembly drawing - they don't have a b-body Mopar drawing (yet), so I'm marking up their largest GM assembly drawing for length, width, etc. It's interesting how similar the Charger and Chevelle are in a few key dimensions.

To complete all these with a high level of accuracy, I mounted and roughly gapped the front fender and used the mockup 305 tire to determine the placement for the tire, which backs me into wheelbase and a ballpark backspacing. The car is pretty much a factory widebody, so everything measures larger than the Chevelle. Fortunately, the front fenders are fairly cavernous, so the tires can push to the outside with ease. How I control for tolerance creep: the front of the car is 0" and the rear is about 185", and the suspension centerlines, torque boxes, rockers, etc. are all measurements within that range. Using a T square, I just translate those critical points to the frame table.

Front fender on, 305 at ride height 6" below the rocker. I had to cut the internal fender bracing to fit. The front suspension is pushed forward by 1.5".

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f7...=w1024-h768-no

For reference, max bump with the original inner fender. These are commonly cut to fit anything larger than a 285.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W5...=w1024-h768-no

Cut and at ride height, level to the front. I'll dial in the suspension stance much later in the process, as everything has to be built level to the frame table.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qt...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AU...=w1024-h768-no

This is my "evaluation pose". I'm trying to relocate the tire in the center of the wheel arch. Originally, the axle was pushed fairly far back in the slot, which I think was a styling consideration so the fender swept down and over a larger portion of the rear sidewall. I prefer the tire to be centered, because it satisfies my OCD. To achieve that, the rear axle moved forward 1.75". Wheelbase is planned at 116.75".

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8H...=w1024-h768-no

I'm headed to pickup a whole mess of 3" square tube so I can brace up the unibody externally and begin the cutting.

David

So no more using your frame? Love the rendering, too!

Nope. Cutting it all out to fit the Chassisworks from suspension system.

David

David, what made you decide to abandon your chassis with all of the hard work you put into it and opt for an aftermarket chassis?

Since you're tossing the frame, good time to toss the LS too. That way you can get a reliable engine in there.

Having worked my way up to choosing their front and rear suspensions, including the rear frame clip, it made some sense to rethink the construction up to that point. In general, the total system gets the car where it needs to be, much more quickly. It's always been about doing the most right thing for the car.
I have been thinking about an LT4 lately.
Forgot to say "thank you". Working with Ben at SRD was a good process, and I really had to think through what I wanted from the car.

David

Nice work David, congrats on the frame, its going to make things go faster. I wish i had done that as well.

Love the rendering, Ben does an awesome job.

I always look froward to the posts on Instagram as well Joe T. or (jarhead1017)

Hellcat crate about the same cost as an LT4, just sayin...

I was just joking about the LT4. The narrow LS is the ticket to accommodate my engine setback and still run the header design I have in mind. Rev0 is my LQ4, and I’ll build an all aluminum as a Rev1.

David

Just be careful, LS swapped custom Mopars don't resell very fast. (or at all)
And Hemi heads dump the exhaust down instead of out the sides like an LS. With stock manifolds the GEN3 HEMI is 26" wide; an LS is 22"(ish) without the exhaust manifolds (or headers)on. Add 1 3/4 or 2" Primaries, and your point may not be so valid for choosing a powerplant that will produce less power, turn off most enthusiasts, lower perceived value and take up more space. Cool car; just hate to see all that hard work go to waste.

Fortunately, the car isn't going to be for sale. I'm a "build it and drive it" type, and most folks won't know my secret with the hood closed. Crossbreeding doesn't bother me. Thank you for the notes on dimensions. Appreciate the outline, and if I were to change to another engine, it would be an aluminum block Gen3 hemi.

David

A few chassis updates.

I drew up a design for the rails that would accommodate the engine setback, and had them bent by Jimmy at MRC Fab just outside Charlotte, NC.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JV...=w1380-h959-no

He transferred my design, and quickly rendered it in steel.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lj...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WI...E=w727-h969-no

Cleaned up and quickly laid it out on the floor - everything will trim to fit.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/U9...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dh...=w1024-h768-no

The whole assembly will be stiffer and lighter than my Rev1 effort. As well, the project will also be documented and published on the YouTubes. A buddy of mine is hosting the videos, and I will continue to manage and keep this thread updated along the way. If you're taking a look, spend some time with Jason's catalog - he's made some really great content through the years.



Post and question, add a comment. Jason and I read them all.

David

Looking good!!

It's been a minute. Let's catch up.

The unibody is hung in the "birdcage," and the Rev1 frame is out, along with the last vestiges of the unibody rails.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PE...=w1024-h592-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8q...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/41...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f-...=w1024-h768-no

Heavy duty attachment points, and nothing moved when I cut out the frame and rails.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xl...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ks...=w1024-h768-no

David

With the rails open, I went back to original steel and got everything clean and ready to accept inner plates.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uq...=w1024-h768-no

Unlike my previous effort, I designed this to be fully formed at the laser shop - no assembly required. Just careful measurement, and loading the design into the sheetmetal module in bend tech.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ph...=w1024-h553-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Gt...=w1024-h768-no

Dimpled, cleco'd with still a bit of fine fitting to do
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XA...=w1024-h897-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yT...=w1024-h555-no

50 welds per flange per side, welded, individually air quenched
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Tx...=w1024-h768-no

Still straight
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qt...=w1024-h768-no

David

I love the attention to detail!

This might be the only time the charger fits in my suburban.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8Z...=w1024-h767-no

Laid out on the fixture table, we built it from the center out
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1I...=w1024-h768-no

Chassisworks front crossmember, ready to get fit
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sc...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VA...=w1024-h768-no

Fully tacked, and ready to burn it all in - we went slow, and managed the shrink pretty well. Pictured here, it's within 1/64" of square
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/60...=w1024-h768-no

Plan is for hot root passes, to be covered by fat caps.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lv...=w1024-h768-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JL...=w1024-h768-no

You really get a sense of scale for just how big this car is
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I7...=w1024-h768-no

Back at my place. We're in the middle of a remodel, so that's explains the huge stack of 1916 shiplap in the middle.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i3...=w1024-h768-no

I've still got to do all the cap passes, T plates, engine mounts, shear plates, and more stuff I'm forgetting.

David

Thanks! I love getting into the weeds on the design and the execution.

David

I follow mrcfab on IG & recently saw the rail set-up which had me wondering where/what it was going under. Fast forward to today, I'm catching up on the Lat-g builds I follow & what do ya' know, I noticed the unique center structure.

I get the 'revision' mentality as I started my first DIY frame w/that thinking in mind (the 2nd time corrects deficiency's from the 1st attempt). That being said, that's a bunch of work accomplished only to switch designs. I prob would have struggled w/that decision :lol:.

Awesome fab work & I even stayed after work just to watch a couple of your You-Tube videos. I think you're doing awesome & like how your approach is when explaining things. I'm in DFW as well. If you ever need a hand... don't hesitate to reach out. You never know when some extra labor will come in handy.

Scot

David,

I am blown away by this build and can't wait to continue watching this build.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills.

mj

Ditching Rev1 was a tough call, and I had to get there in increments. Ultimately, it's about doing the most right thing for the car, and this stronger, more rigid frame made the most sense; even if it meant sacrificing a year of fab work. This is going to be a 100,000 mile car, and it's worth the stretch.

I'm really glad you enjoyed the videos. They're a lot of fun to make.
I'm learning a lot along the way, and am glad to be able to share it. Lots of fun work ahead.

David

The episode covering chassis measurement, Rev2 design, and basic construction of the birdcage is up.


David

Great video David!

Loved seeing Harriet too

Great Video and I love the dog especially when he barks after the first segment.

Video was well done. Enjoyed it. Good work on it and the car. Good luck with it all, David.

Thank you, sir. She's a good pup, and keeps an eye out when I'm under the hood.
Appreciate that. Sometimes little edit sequences like that just fall into place.
Thanks. I'm glad you enjoyed it - always going for a balance of entertaining and informative.

Lots to go. I'm somewhat stuck on progress while we finish up a remodel on our 1916 bungalow, so I'm using this time to render the video I have into a few good episodes.

David

Fresh episode covering the prep necessary to move to the Rev2 chassis.



Most of us, at some point or another, realize they could have built some part of our project car better. If we’re lucky, it’s just a bracket or maybe a floor panel, and we can remake that piece without too much trouble. For me, it was the entire frame and chassis. That presented a choice – compromise, keep the last twelve months of work and continue moving forward, or build it again; this time at a higher level of quality.

Quality first.

David

Thanks, Beechy. That link should work, now.

I’m really glad you enjoyed the episode, and yes, it was a tough call, but necessary. It’s been the right thing, and will yield better results on the road.

David