I'm going with a coil on plug ignition but I will be using a distributor for the cam signal. The cap will be a blank with no rotor so it will be a little shorter. If I have to, I'll make a small access panel that I can remove to get the distributor out when needed.

Thanks Jody! :cheers:

Thanks Trey!

Thanks!

Looking great! Perfect stance!


Ron

Very nice project! I did the same thing you are doing - coil on plug with a crank trigger, then a Holley EFI distributor for the cam position signal. My distributor is up under the windshield, but with the motor mounted fairly low I can still get the short distributor out. Question for you - who's front motor plate are you using? Does the mount have a rubber "isolator"?

Pappy

Attachment 68675

Thanks Pappy! That's a nice looking engine you got there!

The motor plates are Competition Engineering (C4007), but I fabbed the 1/4" wall tubing, hard rubber isolators, and inner sleeves.

Thanks Ron!

It's been a while, so this is where I'm at...

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e9c49145_b.jpg20190606_163319 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8155c3e2_b.jpg20190607_180422 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...fc3aefbf_b.jpg20190609_183741 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...52a54fe3_b.jpg20190609_183753 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

I've been welding the joints that I can reach. Now with everything removed, I'm putting it on a rotisserie so I can get to all the hard to reach places and get this thing buttoned up!

:thumbsup:

Beautiful work! If I may, I would offer one suggestion for the cage while you are at this stage. I would add a NASA/SCCA-compliant diagonal bar, just in case. The following is from the NASA 2019 rule book.

15.6.7 Diagonal Brace
One (1) diagonal brace should be used in the same plane as the main hoop. The diagonal should be one continuous path; meaning that it must conform to Diagrams 15.6.7a or 15.6.7b. Note- If the installation method from Diagram 15.6.7b is used, the builder should pay close attention to alignment. One end of the diagonal brace shall attach to the corner, or horizontal part of the main hoop above the driver’s head, within twelve (12) inches of the driver’s-side corner. The other end of the diagonal brace shall attach to the mounting plate (or to the main hoop as close to the mounting plate as practically possible) diagonally opposed to the driver’s head (passenger floor).


Pappy

Nice work!

Thanks for the suggestion. I was thinking about adding a diagonal bar so this info will be helpful! :thumbsup:

The new intake showed up yesterday and I thought you guys might like some engine porn! :hapdance:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4c2ff2b0_b.jpg20190613_185419 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ddc0f393_b.jpg20190613_185519 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9706d042_b.jpg20190613_185540 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6dd7e977_b.jpg20190613_185546 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f26d2015_b.jpg20190613_185626 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

Very nice 👍

Isn't there a satin silver finish to put on that gold iridite oil pan to keep the color scheme the same top to bottom? This is going to have a ton of torque, I'll bet!

Ummm, yes! Thank you very much! That is one sweet engine.

Looking Awesome Herb!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks Mike!

I've painted over gold iridite or cadmium and it never seems to last. I'm not too worried about the look at moment.

Yes it should make some good power! :thumbsup:

Silly sarcasm. It looks great( my pan is gold, too ).

The chassis is once again upright. I still need to add some more tubes but it's steadily getting closer to paint.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2d348879_b.jpg20190615_183816 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

Here are some close ups of my TIG work. With every joint, the quality improves.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c57c0731_b.jpg20190615_163107 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...61a0a56f_b.jpg20190611_150955[1] by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1c8117e5_b.jpg20190613_184730[1] by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ff5f8705_b.jpg20190614_174236 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

And this is my Fupa 12 that works like a charm!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...14273d61_b.jpg20190615_132508 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

Good job, Herb! I've decided tig will be the next thing I learn. Your work looks nice

Thanks Trey. I know my TIG work is improving, but every time I look at them I see flaws! Practice makes perfect I guess! :weld:

Finally got a chance to look at the engine porn pics on something larger than a phone screen... Hubba Hubba!!!

Chassis looks alright too ;)

Nice thing about TIG is that as you get better you can go back and fix/rerun the beads you don't care for anymore.

Thanks Lance! :thumbsup:

True and I have "repaired" a few already. :weld:

You don't have to grind or cut out the previous tig weld? You can just go back over it and have it melt down the same while adding more filler?

If you have high spots you can knock them down with a grinder but for the most part you can just rerun the weave and make them look better and be stronger. TIG welding that looks good usually is good. MIG can look good but be MEH...…….

I knew that about MIG as I've seen it mentioned and proven before. TIG, I didn't know you could just pass right back over it. I guess it make sense though now that I think about it more. After all, there will be times you have to make a second pass with a larger diameter filler rod to create the correct weld.

Thanks

With all forms of welding you can do multiple passes, it just depends on the base metal, the type of joint, and design requirements.

Some of my fit-up between the tubes wasn't the greatest (this is my first cage) so I had to do a root pass to fill the gap, then a hot pass and/or cover pass depending on how bad the fit-up was. Once I was done with all the joints, I went back and touched up a few just for appearance.

Naturally, some of the best looking joints will never be seen by anyone but me. Oh well!

That's why we need a lot more pictures and updates!

I'll try to get more pics and update more often!

If anyone is interested, I put a lot of stuff on IG... @herblumpp and FB... Rotten Metal Garage & Welding

Some more quick updates...

Before I painted everything, I made templates for the belly pans.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...617a9c13_b.jpgB006 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

Then I got busy with some VHT chassis black.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...44fca47e_b.jpgB007 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f2dd7715_b.jpgB008 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

Then I transferred the templates to aluminum and drilled all the holes (around 250). Before I install the pans to stay, I'll countersink the holes so the screws will be flush. I also got started on the Heat Shield Products heat reflective fabric. I still need to finish the dog house and then some, possibly all, of the firewall after the body is on to stay.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6c283d8c_b.jpgB005 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

Then I got to do some fun stuff - installing the front suspension! :yeah:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...bf4bdec8_b.jpgB003 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...41a76f06_b.jpgB004 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c2ef0c0d_b.jpgB002 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5df710a1_b.jpgB001 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

Herb, you probably should have cleaned the cobwebs off the frame before you painted it. :lmao:

Looking, good, you really are at one of the more enjoyable parts of your build (aside from burning the tires off for the first time.)
Keep up the good work.

Lol, well it's been sitting for so long, cobwebs seem to collect on it!

Thanks!

Looks pretty good, cobwebs and all!

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