power steering pressure hose

earls -6 powers steering hose
2x xrp 90 degree -6 hose ends
earls -6 an to 18mm X 1.50 adaptor
earls an adapter to power steering pump 961961ERL

return hose i used a edelmann 39106 fitting and rubber hose

air intake. 4'' spectre tube, summit silicone hose couplers and a 7'' airaid dry filter

Why did you have to put a shim behind the slave cylinder? What a great build. Im subscribed!!!!

thank you!

quote from tick performance-

During your next clutch install, determine if your slave cylinder needs to be shimmed or not. To do so, you need to take two measurements:
Measurement "A" is the distance between the surface of the bellhousing that meets the transmission to the tip of the pressure plate fingers. To get an accurate measurement, the clutch must be torqued properly.
Measurement "B" is the distance between the throwout bearing surface to the transmission surface that meets the bellhousing. To get an accurate measurement, the slave spring must be removed and the bearing must be fully seated at the bottom of it's travel; resting on the slave's base.
Once you've got your two measurements, make sure that measurement "B" is ~1/16" to 1/8" LESS than measurement "A". If you come up with more than 1/8", add an appropriately sized shim between the slave and the transmission in order to get the measurements where they need to be.

If there is no difference between the two measurements, or if "B" is greater than "A", there could be a problem with clutch engagement which could result in premature clutch slip and eventually a total failure.

my #'s were-
trans side 1 7/8''
motor side 2 1/8''
1/4'' gap
need 1/8'' shim

Wow that's really good info there. Im running a stock T56 and clutch and had no issues with clutch engagement but did go through 2 slave cylinders 1 new and 1 used both GM pieces ( both leaked and ruined my clutch disc) I removed the shim that I had and so far no issues with 4k miles. Weird huh
Maybe a fluke thing

that is crazy! hopefully it works out for me with the shim. defiantly don't want to buy another clutch or slave lol

Hard to tell if the intake tube is in front of the fan or not. It looks very similar to mine and i had to raise mine up above the fan. If it is in front of the fan it will get heated when the fan is on. Problem being is the mass air is reading the incoming air temp and the air gets heated directly after the mass air. It could cause a spark knock because the ECM thinks the air temp is lower. Any-who something to think about.

Thanks! It is in front of the fan a little bit. Didn't even think of heat soak on the intake tube.

This might help in keeping the intake tube as cool as possible......exhaust wrap, plus if you're not into polished aluminum look it tones down the shininess of the tube with a few colour options.

Not sure I'd do that, wouldn't it heat soak and then take longer to cool? The heat reflective tape, the gold or silver work better at reflecting the heat?

i was thinking about the gold or silver tape, wish it came in black

Great looking build Brian! You've through quite a bit of life's trials and tribulations during this process. Enjoyed reading your thread. Way to keep at it!

Looking for help on the radiator hoses

griffin rad with in and out on same side
corvette ls2 motor

any suggestions is appreciated

Lower hose ACDelco 24403L trim to fit.

Upper hose pretty sure a section of this will work. Gates 22358

Don

I went with a couple from NAPA. Looks like your radiator layout is really similar to mine. I've got part numbers and pics posted on page 11 of my build thread if it helps...Nice project, btw, been following along!

Thanks guys!

Upper and lower radiator hoses. Both had to be cut a little to fit

Tipton clutch master cylinder reservoir

I used self etching primer on mine. Then rattle canned it matte black. Both sourced from a body shop paint supplier.

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthr...assman&page=48

post#472

You're making great progress. Looking forward to seeing it in person.

That's what I'm planning on doing. Think it looks good that way

Thanks man. Looking forward to seeing yours too!

trying to figure out the wiring for a neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal.

i think this is the correct way to wire it.

-"start" position on ignition switch sends power to purple starter wire and pin 85

-once clutch pedal is depressed, closing switch to ground. energizing coil in relay

Just read from #1 post to the end —— and all I can say is WOW! And I don’t mean wow about the car..... but to see what you’ve done and had to endure - rotting old pile of car (all of em are like that by the way) - Baby boy! (Need updated pics!!) and a Flood.... and your car still keep progressing. I’m seriously impressed young man (at 65 I can say that).

I’d try to help with the safety switch but my cancer med has kicked in - so brains don’t work very well after that.....

I have some things to say about the rear end centering - but will hold this thought until I can really write what I want to tell you. It’s not bad — I don’t post bad — I want to help and try to help save you some headache at the same time - but that is going to need my full attention.

Just wow — still shaking my head at you! What perseverance you have!

Thank you sir! yes, it's been a wild ride haha. It hasn't been easy but i have learned a lot from it!

As far as the rear end centering- I've been in contact with ridetech and Josh has gotten me lined out with it. I installed the tabs with the pinion at a -3 angle and it needed to be a +3 angle(my fault for not reading the instructions). I haven't fully welded the tabs on yet, just a strong tac weld. It's looking much better

YES.....assuming the "clutch switch" closes the circuit when the pedal is on the floor.....:flag2:

Questions about fluids--- Brands & weights welcome!

What oil to use? 70k mile LS2 unknown history of what oil has been used

What coolant to use? All aluminum motor, griffin rad. with overflow tank

T56 is dexron 3?

Power steering?

I have similar drivetrain set up as yours, but my LS2 is a rebuilt, and I used the following:
-Engine oil: Penzoil 5-30W (non synthetic). Used Walmart cheap oil in the first 50 miles.
-Coolant: Prestone green premix
-TR6060 - Walmart cheap dexron 3 first, as the trans is used. Then changed out to Redline D4 after 200 miles.

Got the battery hooked up and function tested my wiring. All seems good so far. Fluids and gas this weekend/week for the first fire up

Clutch pedal neutral safety switch worked perfectly

Thanks! Why green instead of dexcool?

I can be wrong - it's my understanding is that dexcool works best with a factory sealed cooling system. So I used green type that works with all engine.

Believe it or not, I got my oil/coolant from the neighborhood Home Depot. They have the best prices compared to Walmart/Autopart store.

Well I got everything ready for a first start and had a couple of problems. Main on was oil pressure. Tried to prime motor with plugs out, no fuel or ignition relays. That didn't work. Tried to prime motor with pressurized oil tank, still no pressure. So I start to trouble shoot electrical. On the phone with psi and Dakota Digital. Both companies very helpful. Bim module wasn't reading the obd2 port. DD got me to verify that my bim was working properly by hooking it up to another vehicle and it worked as it should. So on the phone with psi we found that my oil pressure sensor wires were mixed up (black & brown swapped- fixed them) and a ground wire wasn't hooked up to the back of the head- I missed that one somehow. Go to crank engine over again and still nothing. Starting to think I may have punched the oil pickup tube o ring or something in the motor like bearings are shot. I'm stressing out. Motor is a 70-80k mile pull out. Sat in garage for 3 years. Installed holley 302-2 pan

I did start the motor for a couple 5-10 second runs to see if more rpm would build pressure. No luck with that either

Keep at it man!

:captain:

Might make sure you don't have a gauge issue. Would be worth hooking up a temporary mechanical gauge just to make sure you're not chasing your tail.

That's my next step! Like you said I'm not chasing something that's not

If you're priming it with a pressurized oil tank, and it's not showing pressure on the gauge, then I'd try a mechanical gauge to confirm, as Gmachine1911 suggested. Another thing to check is pull the valve covers while priming the motor with pressurized oil tank - oil should seep up thru the push rods.

Best $20 I've spent in a while :)

Cranking with a mechanical gauge, got pressure!!!!

That's a gotta be a huge relief!

huge!