Mark, what does your soft setup consist of? (Tires, springs, etc.) especially when taking a trip like on the GoodGuys Tour. A soft ride would be much better on a tour like this.

Mark,
Each project is a chance to refine something or try something new. Obviously this is the LT5 version, but what other ideas are going into this car that's different from the last?



Jeff-

PM Box is Full
 

Mark,

Your PM box is full... again.

Regards,

Ty

That would work. Three ZL1's and we can do it still using the GM FSCM as the master controller.

It stays full too... Mark's a wealth of information and I bet he can't keep up with the influx of all of us picking his brain for his knowledge.[/QUOTE]

I cleared it out.

Thanks

Mark

My cars tend to weigh 3500 lbs without driver and 52% front weight. I like a 550 lb/in front spring with DSE standard sway bar. On the rear I like 225 lb/in with DSE 1 1/8 rear bar. The softer rear springs and big bar works well for me. The Goodguys AutoX guys are going to a lot higher spring rates.

The "Normal" DSE JRI shocks double adjustable shocks have enough adjustability to be a OK ride but can be firmed up to be used on track.

My issue with the JRI double adjusts are that you need to pull the front tire to adjust them. You also should lube the adjusters every time you change the oil in your car. The adjusters are mild steel and can corrode very easily, then they lock up. The adjustment system is in my opinion kind of delicate. It requires a pin you stick into the adjuster and then you sweep them to the desired setting by counting "Clicks" or "Sweeps".

I'm trying some new shock with knobs and numbers to see if they will work. I want to be able to drive to an event and be able to set the shocks with pulling a tire. Once we test them I'll let you know if they work out.

Mark

Thank you Mark!! Great information and very valuable, especially the lubing of the adjusters which one can forget very easily. Can't wait to hear your opinion on the new QA1's and looking forward to the progress you and Matt are doing on your new build.

Jon

Jeff

The last 3 builds were no paint required and two were stock engines. I loved Gunner with the stock LT4. That car worked great. I was going to swap it over to LT5 power but I chose to build a whole new car instead.

What's new....

I want to try the new LT5 set up. The Direct Injection in the newer LT engines work great. I was going to leave the LT5 stock then I started to talk to Katech and see the work they are doing with the LT5 stuff.

JackAss 2.0 with the 427 LS9 on E85 ran great. It made 970 HP on E85 and never overheated. I think we can do the same with a LT5 at 6.2 Liters on E85.

On every build we learn something new and I'm just evolving the builds as I go along. Yes it would have been easier to just do another Big LS9 but I've done a few of those now and want to do the LT5. Everything has some small tweeks to fix issues we found on earlier builds.

Some examples:

Hellfire had brake cooling ducts and JA 2.0 did not and Gunner did not. I found out I need brake cooling ducts. JA 2.0 with ABS and Carbon Brakes killed brake pads as well as Gunner with Iron rotors. Matt and I have a new system we hope works.

I finally added data logging to the diff and transmission on Gunner and the data shows I do need to diff cooler if you wan to run more than two 20 minute sessions on a open track day. The transmission did not get as hot but we cool it also. (I will keep the data logging feature on the new build)

The combination of a C&R cooling stack on a stock LT4 will allow you to run a 20 min session on an open track day. Add E85 on the high output stuff and it will also keep things in check. I ran JA 2.0 on a 85 degree day hard and the oil temp was 260 F and the water was 210 F.

E85 fuel is cheap and keeps everything cool on track.

Downside to flow enough fuel (E85) to support 970ish HP you need 2.1 Gallon a Min at 60 PSI. Seem simple right? Try making it work at 1/2 a tank.. This is where I spent a lot of time on the phone with Carl Casanova from VaporWorx. After 5 attempts we got a solution on JA 2.0. 2 complete Hellcat fuel systems controlled by one VaporWorx controller.

Matt at Sled Alley has been key to all the iterations. We evolved the oil dry sump system to the point I feel we have a viable solution. By modifying a Peterson 2 gallon tank to 3 gallon we do not have any oiling issues. Hiding it in the cowl is cool but time consuming.

Driveline angles, we move the trans tunnel up 1.5 inches to get a 1 degree angle on the engine. Seems easy but a lot of fab work.

Just a ton of small details. I enjoy the build and new challenges. New parts and technologies are coming along all the time.

If all goes well I hope to have this car on track in Aug. 2020.

Thanks

Mark

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Installing a C&R Racing Rad.

Trying a new mounting strategy after failing a couple.




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We are using 2 inter cooler pumps like the stock ZR1 not what the GM Performace Parts instructions say.

Awesome details. Thanks for sharing Mark.

Good luck, Mark! Love seeing your builds and knowing so much goes into them to perform as well as they look.

Camaro LT5
 

Latest update.

Pocketing the fire wall for extra clearance for the Direct Injection Pump and wiring.

The LT engines have a high pressure pump and bracket right at the top rear of the engine. Gunner was tight so we opened up on this build.

Matt also added the Vintage Air pass through holes.



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In this episode Stielow shows us how big he can make pictures.


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Ok newish to Tapatalk... make them smaller?


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Better? Made them smaller


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That’s some funny sh*t right there... 😆

JD

Much better, Mark. I can see them more easily now. Thank you!

I’ll try to post more on this Camaro as I go. Today I’m working on the clutch master set up.

The key part for the swap to a hydraulic clutch is this firewall adaptor from Detroit Speed.

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Because the DSE kit is based around a 4th gen Camaro master. I just copy the 4th Gen Camaro clutch pedal geometry. I purchased a stock 1992 Camaro Clutch pedal along time before all these stuff was available so I just use it as a template.

Here is the 69 vs 1991 pedal.

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Camaro LT5
 

I weld on a tab to pick up the end of the clutch master cylinder. I drilled a hole in the stock pivot point on the 1991 pedal. I use a transfer punch to locate the new location on the 69 pedal.

I then drill and tab the new tab 1/4 - 20.

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I used to use the stock 4 th gen GM master cylinders then they got fairly expensive and they were plastic. I found this part on Summit Racing web site and it is aluminum.

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Camaro LT5
 

If you carefully remove the stock end that designed to hook to the stock 4th Gen Camaro pedal the Dorman part has 1/4 - 20 treads. I run a die down those threads after I remove the crimes on part.

I then use a piece of 5/16 thick wall tubing to make a new rod. Drill and tap one end 1/4 - 20 and the other end 1/4 - 28 for a 1/4 rod end

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Sorry got ahead of myself a bit. Need to set the length of the rod prior to cutting it.

I mock it up on my table to sort that out.

Copying the stock 4th gen geometry should make the linkage at a 90 degree angle at 1/2 stroke. It you draw a line from the pivot point of the pedal to the pivot point of the rod end the to the center of the master cylinder it should be 90 degrees. This keeps the side load on the master cylinder to a minimum. If you are failing master cylinders most likely your geometry it incorrect and your side loading the master cylinder.

While you have the assembly out of the car and on the work bench also verify the push rod is straight. The centerline of the master cylinder and the push rod should be straight at half stroke. In my setup I had to add two washers to straighten it up.

I later tack welded the washers on the pedal to make it easier to assemble later.

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Camaro LT5
 

I had to clearance the support to clear my bolts.

I use a long stud to make assembling all this in the car easier.

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Because the LT5 ECM is looking for a clutch switch and I’m adding Cruise control I added a clutch switch also while I was making stuff.

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My disclaimer. This works for me and there maybe other ways to do it. I have used this system on the last 5 Camaros with zero issues. I then to revert back to “what do GM do” for a lot of my solutions.

It is amazing the the 1969 clutch pedal and the 1991 pedal are the same length. These setup coupled with a Centerforce clutch make the clutch pedal feel like a stock Camaro.


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Sorry one more thing. I add an adaptor to the Dorman Master Cylinder to convert to -4 AN line. Make hooking up the clutch easier. You can just purchase a premade line to fit. I do add a dry break so if I do need to pull the transmission I don’t have to re bleed the system.

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Excellent information, Mark. Thanks for being so detailed

When I took the Impala Convert I bought apart...…. Here's what I found for brake pedal linkage...….. LOL...… Pretty scary....

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Earl's has a whole line of various fittings for OEM clutch connections, including the early and the later style dry breaks.

Andrew

What type of user interface are you considering to actuate / control the CC?

Many folks modified the OEM 4th gen part with the "drill mod" in order to increase the flowrate through the MC. Are any other similar modifications needed for the Dorman part?

I’ve used the Dakota Digital Cruise control (The CAN) based one on 2 projects now and it is truly plug and play. You need a throttle by wire set up.

It works great and has an OE looking turn signal stalk.


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Carl off memory I think that restrictor was in the stock hydraulic line. Going to the Earls parts with -4 line opens the circuit up.

Some automotive development information. The restrictor is the stock line to help protect the driveline from snap clutch applications. With the restrictor you can’t run the engine up to redline and dump the clutch. The restrictor controls the apply rate of the clutch. If you get rid of it your system reacts faster. Downside your driveline loads go up and you break more parts.


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Thanks Mark.

BTW, the Wagner replacement MC is made by AP but I too like the aluminum Dorman part (on order....).

Awesome info, great detail.

1) What throw out bearing are you going to be using?

2) For the cruise control, is that only compatible with a factory ECM and not for something like a Dominator?

I’ll use a Centerforce throw out bearing and clutch. I think their throw out bearing is a Ford parts with a bit more stroke. But I could be wrong.

Not sure on the cruse control. Call Dakota Digital. They have a good tech line.



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I’m painting it White just because Charley hates it....[emoji57]


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I’ll kill u till your dead !!!!


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