|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Nice work, John. Glad to see you making progress again. Thanks for updating us.
|
Quote:
|
Rust-O-Leum Bed Liner
I sprayed Rust-O-Leum bedliner on the underside floor pan. I know everybody says to use Lizard Skin or something else, but this is what I had. I live on dirt road that is sand and also has wash board, so I wanted something tough, and I also painted it what the body color would be. Didn't know for sure if Lizard Skin could be top coated or not.
https://i.imgur.com/BSagcRu.jpg https://i.imgur.com/0JbuJp5.jpg |
Under Body Detailing Paint
Today, after letting the bed liner dry for 24 hours, I painted over it. First with a green sealer, then the base coat, then the clear coat. ALmost didn't have enough clear. Could have probably used another good coat, but that's ok, it will work. It looks grainy, because it's going over the bedliner texture coat. If I would have been motivated enough to body work the floor, I might have skipped the bedliner, but it does cover up imperfections :superhack:
I first tried an inconspicuous spot to see if it would look ok, and not have any bad reaction with the bed liner. https://i.imgur.com/OhdQqbD.jpg https://i.imgur.com/REkSDTk.jpg https://i.imgur.com/bWZbxeO.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Mbreipi.jpg Time for base coat https://i.imgur.com/438OQ3t.jpg https://i.imgur.com/5HSQEvh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/j9629GM.jpg Time for clear coat https://i.imgur.com/v92aflo.jpg https://i.imgur.com/8E6ABez.jpg https://i.imgur.com/aIydM23.jpg https://i.imgur.com/nQa2rVN.jpg https://i.imgur.com/j89Mx21.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Eg28Pqt.jpg https://i.imgur.com/XW08tKa.jpg |
Fuel Tank Mounted
Got the fuel tank, somewhat permanently mounted yesterday. I think I'll have to yank it back out to replace the filler hose. I need an angled one to work with the Ridetech fuel filler.
Prepping the anti-rattle strips. I decided to attach them to the vehicle instead of the tank itself. I don't know if it really matter either way. Only 30,246 more parts to go :bang: https://i.imgur.com/3PrHJcx.jpg https://i.imgur.com/1YTU0fX.jpg https://i.imgur.com/gxMKHVS.jpg https://i.imgur.com/CR34Qvq.jpg https://i.imgur.com/SohsrZF.jpg |
That green is insane! I like it.
|
This really makes me wish I invested in a rotisserie
|
Quote:
Quote:
Realistically, it's probably cheaper to buy one. I know it would have been a lot easier :lol: |
Rear Suspension install
Started installing some of the rear suspension components. I was going to polish the Heidts aluminum center section, but it was recommended to just do "chrome" powder coating. Sadly, that didn't turn out so well, but I'll live with it. Not really going to show under the car anyway. The powder coater felt really bad about it. He said it might happen (gassing). He cooked it in the oven for 5 hours, hoping to get the impurities out of it, but it still pitted. Just cheap dirty casting from the mfg. Nothing he could do. Only charged me $100, instead of the original $200 quote. I can't fault him, he tried. Even put several hours of prep into it before hand, to smooth it out.
Before https://i.imgur.com/7tULSYT.jpg After https://i.imgur.com/TFlbN7O.jpg https://i.imgur.com/BU3azDt.jpg Other stuff going in https://i.imgur.com/i7XsqXH.jpg $500 doesn't buy much in the quality paint scene these days. The color I chose is up to $880 a gallon. I bought it a year ago for $600 a gallon. This is 2 quarts of jet black, 1 quart of black primer, and 1 gallon of clear, and the catalysts to go with them https://i.imgur.com/FsOnfPo.jpg |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
looking good, you work really fast
|
Quote:
8 years into a 2 year project, doesn't seem too fast to me :lol: |
Got just a little bit more done before I got called to work. Was expecting to do more, but a plumbing leak at home, and getting called to work 11 hours earlier than expected, sorta changed things.
Got the third member installed into the housing, and got it all bolted up. Started installing the stub shafts, but that's as far as I got. I realized, after moving 3 different times, since I bought all this stuff, I am missing some hardware. Don't have a brake caliper mounting bolts. Not sure what happened with those, so I'll have to find some. Tried putting that heavy ass iron third member in with the housing in place...that's a negative ghost rider https://i.imgur.com/FRBGZGB.jpg This'll work https://i.imgur.com/duQwGzs.jpg There it is https://i.imgur.com/asmkL8d.jpg Just swing it up into place https://i.imgur.com/kZls6CJ.jpg |
Wheel Studs
For those contemplating a Heidt's setup, some of their stuff is kinda quirky. For instance, the front aluminum hubs are Willwood, and take a 1/2" wheel stud, but the rear hubs, are apparently Corvette hubs and have a 12mm wheel stud. Had to spend $100 for 10 new wheel studs from ARP. These are specific for converting C5 hubs to SAE 1/2" studs. Just drill out the hole with a 1/2" drill, and good to go.
Don't make fun of my spark plug socket on the press. As soon as the stud bottomed, I stopped. It was the perfect fit for what I needed to do. :) Get out the BFH https://i.imgur.com/07syfVN.jpg https://i.imgur.com/dBGi8Ns.jpg I made sure the table was level with the drill head. Don't want it to be angled https://i.imgur.com/rUmT4OL.jpg https://i.imgur.com/zF55K4r.jpg https://i.imgur.com/M55NXVp.jpg Don't laugh, it worked https://i.imgur.com/q3zBVAd.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HSYVjPS.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Cn5vmdr.jpg |
Rear Suspension going in
Assembled more of the rear suspension stuff. Waiting on some Grade 8 fasteners to come in. Heidt's supplies Grade 5, which I'm sure is sufficient, but I like the pretty gold color of Grade 8:G-Dub::lol:
https://i.imgur.com/iFQMK4L.jpg https://i.imgur.com/n5eSRCy.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Kc593rw.jpg https://i.imgur.com/MM9BpEH.jpg https://i.imgur.com/I7e1D2o.jpg Almost time for wheel measuring!!345's babay!! https://i.imgur.com/T9ZZoh6.jpg |
Everything looks great in there. I'll be watching this part for sure, I've got 345's to fit too. Nice work.
|
Quote:
|
Buttoned up the rear suspension stuff, and took the car off the rotisserie, for the last time...maybe
Straightened and cleaned the garage a little. Time to strip the doors to bare metal, and get everything hung, and body worked. https://i.imgur.com/VaajMrT.jpg https://i.imgur.com/KTiFbk4.jpg https://i.imgur.com/woGHHHV.jpg |
Trick Tool Post
This is a pretty neat, but not cheap tool, to figure out wheel size, backspacing, width, etc. Made by a gentleman named Mike Keller, who owns a company named Verified Fabrication. It is a very well made and thought out design. The tires (when I get them) actually mounts to it, and you can move your suspension through it's travel, with wheel turned (up front) and see where you might have clearance issues. I figure a $400 tool is a lot cheaper than $2000 wheels I can't use, if I got the measurements wrong. :hairpullout:
https://i.imgur.com/wVL2wQm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/0Cx6fON.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ZqzOxXZ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/QAqSC3r.jpg https://i.imgur.com/FDUoa4Y.jpg This was the only issue I ran in to with the tool. Of course it's not designed necessarily to use with the IRS suspension. I called mike, and he told me the tool is thicker in that area for strength to hold the tire, which is what I thought. So I can roughly take away about 5/8" from the thickness, and it should be good to go with 19" wheels. If I set the slides to 20" wheels it clears, but I don't want 20's and rubber band tires..lol https://i.imgur.com/tcKLuB9.jpg |
Wheel selection!!! Ugh
Wheel selection. Harder to decide than the color I chose!!!
The first pics are the wheel style I initially wanted (not the color), but have since changed. I'm pretty much going to stick with polished outer and brushed centers, but might go with the Royal Gold center (last pic), but not sure yet. I'M OPEN TO OPINIONS!!!! Old first choice https://i.imgur.com/1T1Y2s8.jpg https://i.imgur.com/jiWuSGr.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Tts1J9C.jpg New first choice https://i.imgur.com/4PqHkKA.jpg https://i.imgur.com/wJ36iRu.jpg https://i.imgur.com/7N2FEYI.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HzHJfgR.jpg https://i.imgur.com/QEgEgva.jpg Second choice https://i.imgur.com/P4yqr9D.jpg https://i.imgur.com/qeURdQB.jpg Third choice. I do kinda like the deep dish look though https://i.imgur.com/NQRzPsz.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Rcssien.jpg https://i.imgur.com/29bVIfl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/j3ErBY4.jpg Color options for the center section https://i.imgur.com/YFIPJCp.jpg https://i.imgur.com/DueYBmE.jpg And the Royal Gold color I mentioned earlier, but not this style of wheel https://i.imgur.com/iZsCzvP.jpg |
I like the third choice...
|
Oh, this is hard. Of the three you've posted, I'm with Marcus. The third choice looks best to me. I'm not sold on the spokes coming out to the edge of the wheel. The others also look really difficult to clean, lol.
Color, not gold. Gold against a bright green doesn't look good to me. I'd go a dark gold/bronze or lighter gray rim. I'd suggest a center that's not so dark in color that you lose the details of the machining. Polished lips with machined centers sounds nice. The polished lip helps set off the wheel from the tire and frames the center to me. Good luck. I hate the idea of picking rims so much that I'd just copy someone else or get something traditional like a Forgeline DE3P or Fiske FM5 or FM10 and call it done. They're not new but they look great. I'd seriously go mad if I had to choose something new. |
All great choices!
I have the first style on my 911. I've been extremely happy with BC and the wheels look incredible in person. I ordered mine in the brushed black and they do have a bronze tint to them...which worked out great on the car. Jeff- |
They John, I’ve got a similar setup to you. 69 Camaro, Heidts IRS, but I have a chassisworks front subframe. Anyway, I ordered 19x11 wheels with 15mm offset which equates to about 6.5” of backspace. I have no clearance issues. I’m also using a 325-30-19 tire.
Check out some pics of my build. I painted my whole driveline almost a candy red, engine, trans, driveshaft, and the diff housing. Came out amazing! Your doing amazing work too and it’s coming together so quickly! https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...d-0-Fab-Skills |
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I'll likely just stick with the brushed centers, but I really do like that Crystal Coffee too!! Quote:
I have 345's coming in next week. Hoping they fit!! I haven't fully measured yet, but yeah, that 6.5" offset sounds pretty close just from the loose measuring I did. |
also looking at some of the BC forged and ESR 3 piece wheels....
tough decision.... |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
looking at litespeed wheels also https://www.litespeedracing.com/ |
Mah Tars showed up today
My beefy rear meats came in today!!! They are definitely yuge compared to the stock 14" wheels. Looks like 12" wide rim and 6 3/4" B.S. will be perfect!
https://i.imgur.com/cypaULF.jpg https://i.imgur.com/SADs08Q.jpg https://i.imgur.com/caYu0Zp.jpg https://i.imgur.com/cC8JSCt.jpg Time to play with the trick tool. https://i.imgur.com/nyMM83i.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EhYx0Vs.jpg https://i.imgur.com/MhwfydD.jpg https://i.imgur.com/4quKGL3.jpg https://i.imgur.com/FL8dS4M.jpg |
Mounted the doors
Test fit #2. Re-mounted the doors back on the car. I'm going to pin the hinges this time around. Also need to fit the new Cowl hood, and Anvil parts, since I obtained all of these after the car was torn apart.
Was lucky enough to get a couple of days off of work to get a few things done, although most of my time was spent catching up on neglected chores around the house. Was really hoping to get more done on the car. I mounted the fenders today before work, but didn't get a chance to take pics. Yes, the glass and the hardware are sitting in the door, to simulate the weight to make it hang properly. :D I did find a little rust in the driver door, but it was easily repaired. Just goes to show what can be hiding under a primered or painted car, when you buy it.:welder: https://i.imgur.com/ma1UfI9.jpg https://i.imgur.com/iyzpMoz.jpg https://i.imgur.com/lrFqCb0.jpg https://i.imgur.com/SoSrPW8.jpg |
Re-hung the fenders
Got the fenders loosely installed. Funny how I bagged and tagged every nut, bolt, and shim, but it still ends up needing to be tweaked. They just never go back together the same way twice. :confused18:
I'm going to have to work the door gaps of the AMD fender on the passenger side, at the top along the curve, leading up towards the windshield. The angle of the curve in the panel is pretty far off from the curve of the door at the top. Also the door to fender gap at the very bottom of the door will need work. Not much though. It's more of an issue with the door, not the fender with that part. gaps are perfect at the rear of the door, and along the rocker panel, so doors are adjusted perfect. Driver side has an OEM fender, so the gaps are fairly decent with that one. I just need to do some body work, and weld in the tab for the RS headlight stuff, since it was a standard fender. https://i.imgur.com/aSUTTu4.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Moj17nW.jpg https://i.imgur.com/AUSCRg1.jpg https://i.imgur.com/p71SpSb.jpg |
Door Gaps
Been working on the door to fender, and door to quarter panel gaps. Not that they were too awful, but I wanted a little more consistency in them, and a little tighter. I basically just ran my mig along the edges to build them up, and then ground them down.
You can see where these areas are a little wide in some spots, but decent in others. https://i.imgur.com/osawWm7.jpg https://i.imgur.com/yyHL5QS.jpg Didn't mark these but you can see it's a little wide at the top. https://i.imgur.com/N488yKy.jpg A little wide in the middle (like me) :lol: https://i.imgur.com/CagJq4G.jpg Needs a little build up to make it tighter against the fender. I couldn't move the door further forward, or the rear gap would have been huge. https://i.imgur.com/tFLIrmd.jpg Bottom along the rocker is perfect. Nothing needed here. https://i.imgur.com/8RxqcOI.jpg I'm a grinder, not a welder as you can tell https://i.imgur.com/tk5JXtK.jpg https://i.imgur.com/FUi9Awt.jpg https://i.imgur.com/eME50dK.jpg https://i.imgur.com/DioAEgY.jpg https://i.imgur.com/10c0nte.jpg Second round. Adding a little more material https://i.imgur.com/WfQ2QHW.jpg |
Passenger top fender
Fun stuff here. Passenger fender is an AMD. They do not fit as great as everyone says they do. I had to build up along the top near the door. The body line along the top to the body line at the middle, is literally too short. Rather than cut and weld the whole rear section of the fender, I decided to try out Eastwood's body solder. At least it gives me the ability to use metal to build up the area as opposed to plastic filler, or doing all the work of cutting and welding it all.
Here you can see how bad the gap is. https://i.imgur.com/PqJgLrr.jpg https://i.imgur.com/RGZJnc4.jpg First step is to "tin" the fender, using their tinning butter https://i.imgur.com/UmalEqk.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Yo4blsI.jpg After it's tinned, then wash it with baking soda, to neutralize the acid. Then apply the solder. https://i.imgur.com/Inqu9ih.jpg Once that's finished, shape to desired form https://i.imgur.com/n4ibLN6.jpg |
Finished gaps
Here, they are mostly finished. Still have a little adjusting to do, but they're pretty close to acceptable ..lol
https://i.imgur.com/muV8WjW.jpg https://i.imgur.com/UfJTEZR.jpg https://i.imgur.com/NEyHmFr.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ND0ytZ0.jpg https://i.imgur.com/74dmGBb.jpg https://i.imgur.com/5xEMFJG.jpg |
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:18 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net