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-   -   Project 'Overtime': Pro-Touring 68 Acadian (Nova) with L92 swap (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14349)

scherp69 10-29-2010 03:08 PM

Thanks for all the comments guys.

Quote:

Originally Posted by aany001 (Post 312844)
Hey Mike its Steve down here in Toronto Ontario I bought your upper and lower control arms.Man the car is looking great. We are around the same stage.I am having more fun now as the end is coming closer.:thumbsup:

Hey Steve. I was looking at your build the other. I think you're a bit ahead of me. I still need to get the gaps done on mine. Yours is looking great.

Onto the updates......

Got the filler cap panel back into place. Didn't bother posting pics of the process as I did that earlier, and really it's just welding a piece of sheet metal into place. After I got that done, I finished up a few last things I wanted to get done before spraying it.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000686.jpg

I finally got around to laying the primer. I decided to put 2 coats of black down first so I know when I'm getting close to the metal when sanding.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000688.jpg

And then it was grey.....

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000690.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000691.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000692.jpg

The weather today wasn't too bad outside (8 degree Celcius) but I still needed to have one of the 220 heaters going. Got it pretty nice in the shop. Don't think I'll have to worry about it being too cold in there. I had it running all day yesterday, today and will turn it off tomorrow after the cars had a good 24 hours in that temp.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000689.jpg

I was asked about what primer I was using in another thread. I know I posted it earlier in this thread, but thought I'd post it again. It's a fairly new product that BASF brought out and is a one product for everything primer. I'm using it on the bare metal, as a high build and it will be my sealer also. Here's a quote from one of their pamphlets:

Primer-surfacer? Wet-on-wet sealer? Precoat? Polyuroxy? Now one product lets you clear some shelf space by meeting all those needs. R-M’s new chromate-free epoxy primers – available in four colors – let shops replace a variety of products with just one easy-to-use solution. With outstanding adhesion over steel, aluminum, zinc coated and galvanized metals, the new primers are free of chromates yet deliver proven epoxy performance. The primers are offered in gray (EP569), white (EP669), black (EP769) and red (EP869) to blend smoothly with any basecoat, while eliminating excess
inventory and guesswork.

Here's the link to where I found that: http://www.leadingedge-az.com/winnin...ing2008%20.pdf It talks about the primer on page 7 of the pamphlet.

This stuff was brought to my attention by 2blackragtops who owns a body shop and spoke to the BASF rep about using a product that would do everything for me since I'm doing it all in my shop. The only thing is....it's not cheap. I bought a gallon of black and a quart of grey to start with. A quart runs about $60-70. The nice thing though.....one product for each step. I did the firewall with it so far and I found that it sprays nice and sanded easy. I haven't done much sanding on other primers so not sure how it is in comparison, but I was happy with it. I'm really happy with how the firewall turned out.

So now that the car is in primer, I'm going to take a break from the car for a couple weeks. I'm re-organizing my shop and need to get some stuff done around the yard. Not sure what I'll tackle next but as always....will post pics.

waynieZ 10-29-2010 04:07 PM

Nice progress it looks great. They look almost done once you get them all one color even though we know better. Nice.

GregWeld 10-29-2010 04:47 PM

:woot: :woot: :woot:

AMPCamaro 12-05-2010 08:54 AM

1 Attachment(s)
What a awesome build your doing here ,respect.

I have an '70 nova (ex drag car)to build for auto cross and track use,like to get the speed tech torqarm rear suspension for it.

Mike

Blake Foster 12-05-2010 09:11 AM

we ship to Europe!

LanceL 12-05-2010 11:51 AM

Exhaust manifolds?
 
Hi Mike,

I'm new on this site and just read the whole thread you made here. Awesome job on your car and thanks for all the great work helping the rest of us with this thread.

What did you do with those stock exhaust manifolds? I need a set for a turbo build I am doing. If you want you can pm about them. Thanks

Lance

andrew5 12-05-2010 03:55 PM

looikin real good.:hail: that's one killer nova.

jschaecher 12-07-2010 07:01 PM

LS engine placement in Nova
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by scherp69 (Post 281000)
Well it's been a while since I had any updates. To be honest, I haven't been all that motivated to actually work on the car. There has been zero overtime at work so no new parts coming in and I feel like I'm in over my head with this build. As I stated before, I've decided to do as much as I can without having to get new parts. This update is also going to have quite a few questions, so if you can answer any of them that would be greatly appreciated.

After welding in the rear fuel filler panel, I decided I was going to work on routing the filler tube through the trunk. I tried working around the trunk latch but the filler neck wouldn't fit, so I decided to remove it for the time being. I welded in some support braces

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000304.jpg

After taking a bunch of measurements, I cut the latch out

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000306.jpg

Unfortunately that's still how's it sitting. I was trying to figure out how to run the filler neck. The one that came with the Alston filler cap is designed for a Camaro so it goes off to the right instead of straight down. I can get a universal one that comes straight out from the filler cap and then I would have to run it down somehow. My first question....if I decided to get the straight one would I be able to use exhaust tube for the rest of the filler neck? Would there be any issue having gas gown down exhaust tube? I was thinking about drilling a hole though the trunk floor and running the exhaust tube with different bends so it came out where the filler tube on a stock tank would meet it. I was then going to weld the exhaust tube to the trunk so it doesn't move. I would then put the trunk latch back on to cover all this up. I would likely have to use a 90 degree piece of rubber tube to join the filler cover and the exhaust tube running down. Does this sound like it would work???

The next thing I started to do was to get the subframe aligned and push the motor back. The subframe was pretty close and I didn't have to do a lot of moving it. I can't remember where online I found the diagram with measurements, but I used a hole on the rear frame rails and measured to the alignment hole on the subframe beside where the firewall body mounts sit. I got the subframe so it was within 1/4" of the factory measurements. Is that close enough??

Once the frame was aligned, I pushed the motor back as far as I could. There's still quite a bit of room to the firewall

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000318.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000319.jpg

I then started hanging the sheet metal. I fought with getting the doors aligned. I have new Goodmark hinges and now I've read I would have been better off rebuilding the old ones. Oh well. I was told to take the strikers out...that helped. I also ripped out all the old weather stripping..that really helped. Here's the passenger door. The driver's door gap is almost the same. Will have some fixing to do.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000316.jpg

I started to hang the fenders and found that things weren't fitting very well. I ended up needing to find a stock set of body mount washers to put on top of the body mounts. Called Dave at Tin Man's and got a pair for $25.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000322.jpg

Without them in

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000324.jpg

With them in

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000326.jpg

Started hanging the fenders

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000330.jpg

Which brings me to some more questions. I know I'm supposed to align the doors first, then the fenders to the doors (I think that's right) but how do I know I'm doing it right? How do I know the driver's side and pass side with match up when I got to start putting everything else on? When should I add the hood? Any advice on aligning the sheetmetal would be greatly appreciated.

Hey Mike what did you ever figure out about the engine placement in comparison to the firewall? I'm trying to figure out if I should run standard LS engine mount kit or use a 1" back kit? I'm running a art morrison front frame, but that shouldn't effect the engine placement. Thanks for you help.

Jordan

Blake Foster 12-07-2010 07:18 PM

i moved my ls back 1.75 " in my nova it makes it really tight to the fw but still room for lines and wiring.

scherp69 01-21-2011 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jschaecher (Post 320698)
Hey Mike what did you ever figure out about the engine placement in comparison to the firewall? I'm trying to figure out if I should run standard LS engine mount kit or use a 1" back kit? I'm running a art morrison front frame, but that shouldn't effect the engine placement. Thanks for you help.

Jordan

Sorry to take so long to reply to you Jordan. I'm using Autokraft's motor mount kit and with Speed Tech sub it has adjustable motor mounts. I've pushed the mounts back as far as they will go. I still have an inch or two that it could go back but I don't think I'm going to worry about it.

Just a quick update. I haven't done anything new to the car since October. It hasn't worked out with winter, xmas, work, etc. I plan on heading out on Monday though as the wife and daughter are gone until Thursday. What timing...I'm off Monday to Wednesday so I hope to get some stuff done.

These showed up this morning though. They are Speed Tech LSx headers that are built by Stainless Works. They are amazing quality. I know the polished isn't for everyone, but I'm glad I decided to get them. They will look awesome. Here's a few pics:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000715.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000729.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000728.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000716.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000730.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000724.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000734.jpg

Nice thick flanges

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000736.jpg

You can see how deep the polish is on these things

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000738.jpg


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