For some unknown reason the engine has been rough running the paste 2 weekends. I think it's the carb. maybe needs even a cleaning on the idle circuit. I turned up the idle speed a little bit, but I still think the carb needs cleaning.

The settings seemed to be good last night when I checked.

I just picked up a quick fuel rebuild kit. The sales person was recommending a regulator to keep the fuel pressure a bit lower for the quick fuel carb

So are there any good videos on cleaning a quick-fuel type carb out there?

I got antsy last night and started taking off the float bowls and metering blocks

I didn't want to disassemble the whole carb.

The idle air mixture screw seals that were on the carb, I'd say were suspect. SO was the power valve gasket.

I replaced the accelerator pump diaphragms, metering block gaskets, power valve gaskets, and IAMS Seals.

After doing all that, I wasn't really sure what to expect, other than say that I was hopeful.

Took it out of the garage and went about setting up the IAMS. After not too long, it was running better, and I kept doing minor adjustments, until I have it pretty good I think.

I want to really tackle the power valve vs the cam I have now, to see if I can knock the surging down a little. I think I might have to look at the vacuum gauge as I am driving, to set it up right

In an effort to iron out some rough idling issues and better tune the carb, I finally installed the Air Fuel meter that I had ordered a couple of years ago and had sitting in my garage.

I did get the Qickfuel carb to idle and transition better, but I think I have a little more work to do.

The next task is getting the evil sounding 487 FE to be less deafening while driving. I added resonator tubes to the exhaust a few years ago. Today I found out they are called Helmholtz pipes, or resonators.

I used a 3 bolt style header flange to bolt the resonators on with, so I can change sizes and vary the resonator size and pipes until I get it right. (hopefully I can get it right)

Finished the resonators tonight. They worked perfectly. The deafening sound inside the car is gone, and the exhaust note on the outside of the car is virtually the same.

Next on the agenda is some revised soundproofing in the doors, then any other suspect areas, like the firewall.

Then I think after that, it's on to the T56 Magnum conversion. I have everything, but I think I am going to pull the trigger on a sequential shifter. More on this in the coming weeks. The transmission and shifter change is a big one, with that work, the overhead and floor console will have to be redesigned.

I am also going to revise the gauges, adding two in the overhead console and changing the gauge layout in the lower console.

Since years ago, when I first did my own custom consoles, I have added carbon fiber skills to the toolkit, so it should be fun, being creative.

The doors have been completed for soundproofing.

On the drivetrain front, it looks very much like I am ordering a sequential shifter for the T-56 magnum. More on this later, I am hoping to get some custom engraving on the shifter handle as well.

Should be fun and fast shifting ;-)

Been working on the transmission change over the past couple weeks, much to the chagrin of my wife.

She asked me, when are you going to be finished working on that car?
"Never" lol

Anyway, I picked up the plate for dialing in the bell housing (something a little more difficult on the T56, and I did not want to disassemble the transmission front.)

I am fabricating the transmission mount. This is much more challenging on a lowered car as well. There are a whole bunch of little things that I need to do.

I figured out the ideal gear ratio I wanted was somewhere between a 3.25 and 3.50. Thay make a 3.40 for a ford 9", but I'm not too sure if it is a crazy straight cut gear that is a lot noisier. I don't know if I want to trade engine rpm for a constant gear whine at 80 mph on long highway drives

I have the driveshaft sent out for shortening. I have one set of offset dowels, so if the bell housing is not off by much, hopefully by this upcoming weekend, I'll have it more or less ready to go.

I want to figure out how to wiring up a neutral safety switch for this transmission. Unlike the TKO, it does not have one.

I heard from the sequential shifter manufacturer. Sounds like they are closing in on being finished my custom shifter.

That should be pretty exciting. Once I install that, I plan on completely redoing my earlier iteration of my custom console. Rather than having a shifter boot, I want to design a seal at the floorpan, so I can show off the custom milling and shifter design.

The Bremer sequential shifter arrived today.
My choice for this shifter was as much to do about the aesthetics as it was the function of the shifter.
The team at Bremer was also able to accommodate my request for custom engraving of the shifter with my lettering.

It will be a few days before the install, maybe longer as I have a few calibration items to do, after changing gear ratios, then configuring the floor console to fit the new shifter.

On unpacking the shifter and giving it the once over, I have to say it is an incredibly designed and machined piece of equipment.
I'd expect that the mechanism and internals are equally precise.
It's really top notch.

I plan to redesign my new console around the shifter itself. It'd be a shame to hide all this great work. I just have to design a seal at the floor pan, that fits the shifter itself.

It looks like it''s made for the space shuttle! nice

Thanks!

I am upgrading the rear brakes and with the upgrade thinking about changing caliper colours (from the red that's on the car now) to something else. I am considering yellow, gold, blue or a more vivid red, or keep the same red.

Just trying to think of also what will go with the blue, and maybe be a little more unique. One of the colours that I think could look good is gold as well.

Blue kind of blends into the background, and I was thinking of a colour that pops a bit more.

Opinions?