Next steps on the project have begun. The SBC has been pulled and will be picked up today. I need to decide how much firewall cleanup I may do and possible wiring rerouting. I may also pull the entire subframe and swap it out due to the issue with the alignment and the fact that I need to set the panel gaps anyways. Still trying to figure that issue out. In the meantime I'm going to get the LS3 opened up a little to make sure everything is still in good shape there.

So far I've ordered up an oil pan from Pacific Fabrication and am placing an order for a hydraulic clutch kit from Vince. More parts are also going to be ordered up today.

Attachment 48932

Attachment 48933

What are you thinking with the subframe?

When Keith did my suspension and front end work, i dunno if you saw the pics or not, but he swapped out the sub, stitched welded it, built the triangular "housings" for the coil-overs, then powder. IMO, it handles pretty close to a c-5 less the wide tires, which are next.

Is this what "they" call scope creep?

You goin A/C?

I already installed the Speedtech coil over mounts but from talking with Blake and a few other people the factory perch seemed to be in the wrong place so it won't align to Speedtech specs. My thought for the replacement frame is to install another mount (Blake offered a replacement) and also go ahead and stich weld and reinforce it more than what I've already done. Mine handles nice but I need to pull another 1 degree out of the base alignment

Just left you a vm regarding the t-56 issues you may have....

The old engine is officially gone and the cash is in hand. Today I decided to tear into the LS3 to check it out. First inspection everything was looking very clean. I the noticed a bit a wear on all the exhaust valve stems. Not something I like but not a show stopper. Next I checked out the intake and there is a decent amount of oil in the intake ports. I assume due to crank vent. The last thing I did was check the main bearings. Here I found a show stopper. Bearings have clear signs of debre passing through and the crank is rough.

I'm going to just tear the whole thing down. My buddy is a crank grinder in Houston so I'll have him check it out. At a min I'll do all new bearings and rings plus full arp hardware to hold it together. If the crank is too far gone or stroked kit is a decent price I may up the cubes too. Before this I do need to pull the heads and check the bore measurements. They look good underneath but hard to say for sure

I probably should have done this long ago but oh we'll, I know now....

You get that motor for FREE? Steve.


Probably cheaper to just buy a GM crate motor and get a warranty with it... I think I'm in the LS3 480hp motor built by Don Hardy Jr. for the '33 about $10,400
and I think that included the controller and harness...

He's not far from you.... might be worth a call to see if he has something lying around and maybe he'd take yours in on some kind of deal.

I'm going to go through this one and get it back to right. I'm not too concerned. I haven't played with an LS before but have played with lots of others. I also have access to a full machine shop so overall cost to rebuil it stock shouldn't be too much assume nothing's way out of spec. $10k is way out of my budget.

But you do make a good point. If I'm thinking to stroke it it would probably be cheaper to buy the crate motor than to buy an expensive core, all the stroker parts and to pay for machine work. My only benefit is parts at shop cost and free machining... I'll most likely not stroke it and use the money elsewhere

Steve,

If you need a cheap LS motor, several JY in Houston have 5.3 truck long blocks for cheap, even with 3 mo warranty. I got my 5.3 from one of those JY, and it's been running good so far.

I'll let you know if things turn really bad but for now I'm not worried. The fix for this engine shouldn't be too bad. Thinking a pushrod length check and the crank assessment. I've run worse engines in the past but figured I should go ahead and make this one right while it's out.