Sorry to hear about you putting it back together, i was hoping to pick it up for 20 cents on the dollar :)

Love this car alot, one of my favorite 69's, from the color to the rims to the "performance" (stuff happens,,,,right?)

I think i read it right, a 454 LS right?

Anyways, best, mike

Mike, I’m sorry you didn’t buy it for 20 cents on the dollar too. You’re honestly way better off waiting for me to dump a ton of money into it, sort out all the issues and then sell it for 50 cents on the dollar.

...and yes 454 all aluminum LS7, well technically it might be a 457.

With all this talk of special builder-specific LS stuff going wrong (I think I remember the big-time builder you mentioned at Sonoma), can we at least hear that the crate motor in your awesome white Mustang still works correctly?

Your (expensive) experience reminds me of why I gave up on both machine shops and automatic transmission rebuilders in the late 1990s: They always seemed to require unnecessary return trips, sometimes including court.

Here's looking forward to seeing the IRS go into this car!

Yeah, the Mustang's engine is still running strong (knock on wood)! There isn't anything too radical with it though. All of the aftermarket parts on it have undergone factory durability testing. At the end of the day, I think you're always choosing between reliability and power. I know after two to three years, I'll probably refreshing the engine in my Camaro again.

Well.. you keep the Mustang's RPM's so low.. it should live forever :lmao:

I should probably raise the rev limiter. its set so low I keep bouncing off of it.

I'm working on getting the major stuff on the Camaro done this weekend so we can hopefully fire it this coming week!

:ohsnap: where it set now?

It’s set at 8k, which is safe, and gives some room for over revs on shifts. The rotating assembly is balanced up to 8400rpm and nobody really seems to talk about when the valvetrain starts to to get unhappy.

Okay, time for a few photos, and some tech! If you're building a car, or sorting one out, hopefully this info might be of use.

The Art Morrison front Subframe bolted right into the car. To run the Dailey dry sump we had to notch one of the motor mount stands on the AME subframe. We also machined a set of offset aluminum bushings for the rack in order to drop it down a little and get its lines to clear underneath the dry sump pump. We may decide to go with a Woodward unit in the future. I had a DSE 20:1 rack. Its been very reliable, but it feels like there is a little squishyness to it (maybe bushings are partly to blame). I installed an AGR 15:1 unit before running LS Fest West, which was the final event in the car before rebuilding it. Steering was noticeably faster and more "direct" feeling. Maybe its just me, but the initial turn in on the 20:1 rack is vague and difficult to feel. Once it is turned in, it seems much more precise when adding steering input. Before you guys tell me that its bushings or slip angle in the tires, I tested back to back.

Next up on the suspension, would be the billet 1" drop spindles from Lateral Dynamics, along with prototype adjustable A arms. These arms allow for fine tuning camber, caster and track width.

I also put together a splined Speedway engineering swabar and drop down mounts so that the bar will not interfere with, or limit steering angle. After a bunch of testing and measuring, we found that the tie rods would be the first thing to hit at full lock. With a pair of rack limiters, I think we would be able to run a 12" wheel up front, and be in board enough to turn the tires at a low ride height without hitting the fenders.

I also redid part of my exhaust for ground clearance. At some point I'm going to change header flanges.

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