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ModernMuseum 07-19-2011 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67ragtp (Post 349536)
Wayne- Thanks, I do feel a lot better, it just needs to be dialed in. I will keep you posted.

ModernMuseum- Thankyou, Dont mind at all, the intake tubing is from spectre performance you can purchase through summit or jegs. One 90deg 4 inch OD alluminum tubing with a 7 inch leg- part number 97990 and one 22 deg 4 inch OD alluminum tubing with a 6 inch leg- part number 97290

The filter is K&N part number RE-0870
And an AEM dry flow pre-filter part number- 1-4001

The MAF housing and sensor is a Powermax- powerMAF 100 its basically a stock ls7 hitachi sensor with there custom housing.

I used spectre's couplers. Hope this helps- Rich

Rich-

That Spectre coupler that you are using to connect the two intake tubes together with....how long is that by chance? I looked on summit and the longest one I could find is 3", but it looks like the one you have there is around 6". Thanks.

67ragtp 07-19-2011 11:46 AM

It may be hard to see from the other photo's, What your looking at is the PowerMaf plastic housing in between two silcone couplers. Both couplers are two inches wide. I dont have part numbers for them and they are not spectre. Some brand that was supplied with the MAF housing. The coupler up at the throttlebody is also a two inch made by spectre. Heres a closer look-Hope this helps- Rich
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture294.jpg

ModernMuseum 07-19-2011 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67ragtp (Post 360713)
It may be hard to see from the other photo's, What your looking at is the PowerMaf plastic housing in between two silcone couplers. Both couplers are two inches wide. I dont have part numbers for them and they are not spectre. Some brand that was supplied with the MAF housing. The coupler up at the throttlebody is also a two inch made by spectre. Heres a closer look-Hope this helps- Rich

Thanks Rich. What is the primary function of this little plastic housing piece? Is it to extend the length of the tube and ultimately locate the filter further inside the fender? It looks like it's the same OD as the other (metal) tubes.

67ragtp 07-19-2011 03:39 PM

Its function is to house the Mass Air flow sensor. If you look towards the background of the pic you will see the MAF sensor protruding out. It is approx. 4 inches in length, many are made in Alluminum, mine is manufactured by PowerMAF made of some kind of plastic. It does extend the overall length of the intake system by 4 inches. The slot style Ls7 MAF sensor does include Intake air temp sensor as well, funny thing is I spent time trying to locate the sensor in the correct spot to avoid air turbulence problems and we ended up tuning the engine in a speed density mode which doesn't even use the darn MAF.
Hope this helps.

Matt@BOS 07-19-2011 04:02 PM

Rich, how much did you say you had to space out the front wheels after putting the Wilwood W6 calipers on? I had a similar issue and was able to grind a bit off the edge as to keep the caliper from hitting the hidden hardware.

Matt

67ragtp 07-19-2011 04:32 PM

I ended up with a .250 spacer and have about 2mm(.080) clearance overall. I think I would have had to grind a bit off the counter bore boss that holds one of the big caliper cap screws. Its tight in there, I have a 3 inch outer with a 7 inch inner with the dse recommended back space. For some reason I cant seem to bring myself to start grinding on the calipers. It looks like my interference issues are with the blind cap bolts as well. I hate the fact that I have negitive 2.2 degrees of camber in this thing just to clear the fender. I would love to move the tires in. I spoke with Scott at forgline and we discussed going to a 2.5 outer and a 7.5 inner that wouuld move the tire in 1/2 inch but I would still have to use the spacer to clear the caliper. Question is do I have the room at full lock back and forth. The 10 inch deal is a tight fit, throw in the huge calipers and its a mess. I will tell you these calipers kick azz, damn thing detaches the retna's from your eye balls.

What size are your hoops?

ModernMuseum 07-19-2011 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67ragtp (Post 360757)
Its function is to house the Mass Air flow sensor. If you look towards the background of the pic you will see the MAF sensor protruding out. It is approx. 4 inches in length, many are made in Alluminum, mine is manufactured by PowerMAF made of some kind of plastic. It does extend the overall length of the intake system by 4 inches. The slot style Ls7 MAF sensor does include Intake air temp sensor as well, funny thing is I spent time trying to locate the sensor in the correct spot to avoid air turbulence problems and we ended up tuning the engine in a speed density mode which doesn't even use the darn MAF.
Hope this helps.

Ahh, sounds good. Thanks man.

Stuart Adams 07-19-2011 07:31 PM

Nice car, great setup. Congrats.

Matt@BOS 07-19-2011 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67ragtp (Post 360768)
I ended up with a .250 spacer and have about 2mm(.080) clearance overall. I think I would have had to grind a bit off the counter bore boss that holds one of the big caliper cap screws. Its tight in there, I have a 3 inch outer with a 7 inch inner with the dse recommended back space. For some reason I cant seem to bring myself to start grinding on the calipers. It looks like my interference issues are with the blind cap bolts as well. I hate the fact that I have negitive 2.2 degrees of camber in this thing just to clear the fender. I would love to move the tires in. I spoke with Scott at forgline and we discussed going to a 2.5 outer and a 7.5 inner that wouuld move the tire in 1/2 inch but I would still have to use the spacer to clear the caliper. Question is do I have the room at full lock back and forth. The 10 inch deal is a tight fit, throw in the huge calipers and its a mess. I will tell you these calipers kick azz, damn thing detaches the retna's from your eye balls.

What size are your hoops?

I'm *only* running an 18x9 with a 275. However, the car is sitting so low with the half-height bushings, and springs, (which seem to keep settling a little after track days), that I had the wheels re-hooped half an inch wider on the outside, so that the wheels wouldn't scrape the control arms at close to full lock. Other than the rim width, we're running a nearly identical setup, so I'm thinking a little bit of grinding might solve the problem - if you can bring yourself to do it. Of course, having the fronts re-hooped and/or stepping down to a 9.5" would be the right way of doing things. I don't think you'd be sacrificing any significant performance. With DSE's rear bar, the car is fairly neutral in the corners.

Matt

Vegas69 07-19-2011 07:56 PM

A thicker hat that moved the wheel spokes away from the caliper would be the best option. Then you could adust your shell where it needs to be.


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