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let me know if i can clarify anything. its hard to type, but would be really easy to show you in person. if you have a tig making the top piece is actually pretty simple. really time consuming, but simple. i also say this with never having take a car to a painter. they may bust my ass because of my finish work, but it looks good to me.
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It's kind of hard to follow part of your last post about how you built it. I understand the large triangle piece which you did with a mill (which is completely bad ass) but initially I was referring to the top piece of the core support as you also described. I would be more inclined to fab one out of steel because for me it's a bit more forgiving. I'm going to go back to my shop tomorrow and do some brain storming. I really appreciate your help in trying to explain and help me. |
the top piece isnt that difficult. i just made it wide enough to fit over the top piece of the core support. it drops down about 1.25" in the front and 3/4" in the rear to give it a clean look and to hide the back lip of the original core support. if i had to guess, its probably about 2.25" wide at the top. i was able to heat it with just a plumbing torch and get a nice radius drop down towards the ends.
i agree that sheet metal is easy to work with, but you cant beat the rigidity of the 1/8" aluminum and the ability to work the welds with just 80 grit on a block. there would be no way to sand out the welds as easily with sheet metal and i would fear the normal issues of grinding too thin with 18 ga. if i lose .030 on the 1/8" piece its no big deal at all. plus, the weight difference is minimal, but theres no warping or twisting etc... the bends dont affect the rest of the metal and it can be bolted down without denting as well. |
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ahhh I gotcha. I didn't realize that the 1/8" aluminum just covers the stock steel piece. That makes since and I understand what you're saying about grinding aluminum vs. the mild steel. I'll have to try working with the AL a little more. How did you attach the aluminum to the stock steel? Is it just bolted at the ends under the fender? This last post totally cleared everything up, the "V" cut to make the 90* bend etc. all makes sense now. Thank you again.:cheers: |
Glad to see your back making progress again.
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just a little update for today. i ended up getting the ends of the bottom piece welded on and smoothed out. now i just need to finish the back lip, weld the two pieces together and figure out how im going to mount the latch. its going to use the stock piece with some mods. more pics to come. http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/IMG_1460.jpg |
here are the latest pics. its now one piece and the back lip is complete. i will work on the latch later this week and still need to add 2 more bolts into the grille and the bolts on the end of the closeout to the fender. the radiator is still just sitting on the metal, so it will come up ~1/4" to make it the same level as the closeout.
i also plan to call steve at RED about sleeving a block. still hunting for a gen IV aluminum 5.3 block that i can use. ive been convinced that theres no reason to pay for an ls2 or 3 only to sleeve it. im also going to start calling around again for some builders. im actually hoping i can find someone local instead of trying to play phone tag with texas just trying to get a quote. http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/IMG_1527.jpg http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/IMG_1528.jpg http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/IMG_1529.jpg |
looking good. theres bound to be someone that is good with LS motors around you down there.
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yes. very cool
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