You inspire all of us Mark. For every person who posts something in your thread there are probably 20 other people just watching, learning and just trying to understand all of the complexities of your design and engineering. You give us something to strive towards, even if our builds are polar opposites. You make us all want to be better.

You're the man. :hail:

X2
I wish could have gone to SEMA just to see this car and maybe get a picture with the man.
Definitely an inspiration

Mark, you are the man... thanks for the sharing and feedback... truly invaluable to so many.

You really allow that Weld guy to be in your camp? That's got to be worth about minus 5 Optima points in some category...

Good luck out there. :bigun2:

Simply Brilliant what else can you say the engineering, fit and finish is a credit to all involved. What is the actual zr1 clutch stack height? I am just doing an LS9/Magnum combo and am in the midst of doing the math. Pretty sure the ZR1 bell-housing height is 6.440

Funny... I've been searching for that style of lugnut and previously looked at those ones. I didn't know much more than what the ad said, questioned the quality and was just about to order the same style from Gorilla.

But if its good enough for Mark's car then it should be fine for my bucket of bolts.

Awesome pictures of an awesome car. Really amazing all the way around.

We found the same thing with the Rivals - mine arrived 2 days before the Portland Ultimate Street Car, after a 6 month back order, and we didn't have time to heat cycle them. They were slippery as snot in the AutoX and Speed Stop, and finally came into their own by the 3rd track session.

Did the 315s up front fit cleanly under the Anvil fenders? I've been eyeing those fenders but don't really want my car back in body and paint jail unless it's really worth it ...

Once again, good luck at SEMA and OUCSI. Wish I could be there to see it.

I have the 315 on a 10.5 and the fit great. Side wall is square. With 1.75 degrees of camber and the car fairly low the tires do not rub at all. I was hesitant to use an 11 because I thought I would have a hard rub. I might try an 11 later.

Over all I’m happy with the Anvil stuff. They do require a bit more body work than a steel OE fender.

I took my new Rival to a church parking lot and did LH and RH donuts until they stuck. Seemed to work. The kids next to the church liked it. The cop not so much.....:shakehead:

The car is shipped to SEMA so no more tuning.

Thanks for all the support.

Mark

Next time I get caught doing donuts in the church parking lot I'll just explain that I'm "tuning my car." :idea:

Can't wait to see how you do at OUSCI - congrats on building an incredible car!

Can you imagine if this was you it should would make for a good story at Sema ?


Dad facing Charges after doing donuts in Parking lot

http://www.wchstv.com/news/features/...l#.VFKHP_ldVZs

LOL.

"I'm heat cycling my tires to be ready for the Optima Challenge" is probably one of the more original excuses the cop has heard.

Simply stunning, " engineering marvel "

Quick question at the power levels of this current car and the ability to overpower the tires at will, have you hit the point of of diminishing returns?

Would full blown racing rubber harness this power level?

and your on a mission from god.


awesome build

Okay, I'll bite. Why 177*F thermostat for the Z28?

Very nicely executed Mark.

The Z/28 thermostat is a lower temp and higher flow thermostat. We wanted to make the Z/28 robust for track use and we wanted more coolant flow for better power train cooling. Early on in the program we were undersized for power train cooling and the thermostat in conjunction with many other parts keeps the Z/28 cool.

I have learned a lot from my projects and from work. Having a car that will run hard on the track without overheating is great. A side benefit is nothing leaks. It is a great feeling not to be also watching the gauges out of the corner of your eye.

This project also has a Race Technology dash that allows me to monitor the can engine data, log it and set warning functions. I went from a gauge watcher to just using the warning lights.

It all works great.

Mark

Mark,
Will that thermostat work in a BBC, or is the size different for the LS motors?

Sorry no totally different.

Mark, not to echo everyone else but I will to a degree.

Even though there are a bunch of great people with fantastic cars going and we wish them all the best there is something to be said for betting the best horse in the race.

This household will be cheering you on. I wish we could see it live instead of waiting until it comes out on Dish.


Give 'em Hell and GOOD LUCK!

I figured so. Thanks for the response.

Mark
The car looks outstanding! Cant wait to see it this week. The paint is stunning.

Mike

Mark, what is the fan shroud (ei fan blade leading edge) gap from the radiator core? You quote 850W heat rejection for the fan, but is there an equivalent vacuum or airflow (cfm) value that you can attach to that heat rejection rate? Also lastly, what is the core thickness of the radiator?

Thanks!
Joe

OEM fans are not typically rated in CFM. 850W is simply (volts x amps).

Obviously, that is not enough to design to for cooling requirements, so a volume flow rate vs. pressure drop is required - this is where many fans fall short as they are rated in CFM @ 0 (zero) pressure drop - which is not how you are using them (And some have dramatic loss in flow with pressure drop).

The SRX turbo fan flows:
~1.0 m^3/sec @ 300 Pa pressure drop (2119 CFM @ 1.2"H2O)
~1.5 m^3/sec @ 225 Pa pressure drop (3178 CFM @ 0.9"H2O)

So pressure decrease of 25% results in flow increase of 50%. Now you can see why flow curve (mass flow vs. pressure drop) is what you are really looking for in fan specifications.

If you extrapolate flow curve for SRX turbo fan, flow @ 0 pressure drop is on the order of ~2.5 M^3/sec (5300 CFM). (not 100% accurate as flow rates become non-linear at very high and low pressure drops)

You really need to know what the pressure drop is through your cores to determine flow rate of fans (that combined with heat exchanger efficiency will give you kW heat rejection).

BTW- Modern high-efficiency cores are WAY more efficient than old-school designs - so not as simple as looking at core thickness, size, etc..

Dave

Jesus fricken Christ Mikels.....speak English....

OK Charlie:

Big fan move sh**load air!

Dave

Thanks for a good laugh Gents! :thumbsup:

Have to admit, that's comedy!
Dave, thanks for this info. I'm gonna file this, as I've never found this info anywhere, and I'd say with your credentials, your a trustworthy source of info.

Funny !!

Charlie I think you read my mind! :confused18:

Thanks Dave, this data is literally exactly what I was hoping for, but being the internet, was not expecting it!

I was also asking for core thickness as a reference for the rough resistance that the fan would be working against statically (not including added resistance of IC in front). Obviously dynamically there are added factors under speed such as ram air effect on some of the frontal area as well as pressure differential across the "cooling stack" due to chin spoiler, etc... just looking for a rough idea of if it's a 2", 3.5", or 17.623578" thick core.

Cheers,
Joe

I'm pretty sure it's a 17.623579" thick core.:peepwall:

What could possibly go wrong.

......

So we know the seats are on sliders and not fixed lol.

what ever you do don't rear end Bluballs.

I know, look a tall that leg room in the back. LOL

Hey! I got it home to the trailer at LVMS all the way from downtown Las Vegas... and never got over 4,000 RPMS.

I was really the most impressed with the headlights! Holy moly those things are like having two suns with reflectors behind them.

As Charley would say "You Suck" :thumbsup:

So Greg, is it as docile and liveable as Mark described? Glad you guys are out having fun!

So you have Marks car and your most impressed with the headlites??

This?????
Wait, what!?!? Come on Weld!

Well it looks like we know where Hellfire is going when Mark is done with it!:G-Dub: