I've seen that thing somewhere!!

Can't remember exactly - so long ago....


Hey! We actually drove Rudy's today! OMG... that car came out killer!

Thanks Trey. I'll probably run a braided line to the existing guage for a quick fix now. At sometime I'd like to have a 5" and 2-5/8 Pro Comp guage cluster or the Stack dash module.

You DNA is still all over that thing. :D
Look familiar?
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Cama...IMAG2674-M.jpg

Started the disassembly tonight, did you Weld the other top brake bracket fastner in? I don't have enough heat or horsepower to get it lose. 3/8" hex 1/2" drive impact socket will be purchased tomorrow.
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Cama...IMAG2676-M.jpg

Where are the pictures of Rudy's ride!? Break your iPhonie? :mad:

Sieg, if your on a budget all you need for now are upper control arms, sway bar, and stiffer springs. Weld the seams on the sub. Try and squeeze a Speed Direct rack-n-pinion into the budget. They are hassel free and bolt right up. That will eliminate the steering box and all the steering linkage which is great for clearance and weight loss and most importantly give you excellent steering response.

As far as motor goes, give those heads back to Weld and get some with a 64cc combustion chamber and 2.05 intake valve and run flat tops. May as well get a get a crank shaft while your at it and build yourself a 383. Get the forged rotating assembly from Eagle. Run a Comp 280 Solid Magnum cam if you are running power brakes. If no power brakes jump to the 292. Victor Junior intake and Holley 830 HP. That should get you around 500 hp.

Gaetano,

I'm leaning to SPC uppers/lowers, good double adjustable shock, already have stiff low springs, the spare subframe came with Hotchkis lowered BB springs and 1-1/8 tubular sway bar. Just installed a new Lee 12.7 firm steering box. :(

Since the motor is coming out installing the heads are the priority. I'm going to get the heads cc'd and see what I have. The heads, carb, intake, and ignition whould be a decent improvement from where it was. Until the insurance adjusters inspection next week I'm somewhat in the dark.

A real motor would be nice, but I'd be real happy with one that runs right now. :D

Thanks for the input.

trust me , you'll be happier with that Lee box. Don't be sad at all. :yes:

No complaints, the firm valving makes a big difference. If I had all new tie-rod ends and control arm bushings it should be pretty precise.

Since the car is at the hospital, hopefully in short-stay, it allows time to get some work done on the spare subframe I picked up...........Any subframe advice is appreciated since I've never been down this road before.

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Cama...MAG2683-XL.jpg

Tonight I did an amatuer job of checking the frame to get a rough idea of how tweaked it is. It doesn't appear to be to bad, the drivers rear mount is outward about .5", the upper control arm mounts measure out uniform width and level. I feel pretty confident that I can take it to the frame shop and not be told it's a lost cause.

What I want to do is get it straightened, clean up the wire splatter and sloppy factory welds, strip it (I'll assume media blasting is the quickest and cheapest), patch in where the subframe connectors were welded in and cut out, possibly cut out and patch in the underside of the motor mount cross member since it looks like it lost a fight with a floor jack numerous times, clamp and weld the center skid-ski where it's lose at the front, then weld up the seams in the rail, relocate the upper control arm mounts and fill in the old, sand it down and have it painted.

Does that work and sequence make sense?

Will a frame shop straighten a subframe without it attached to the car?

Do all the welding work on the frame before you have it blasted

I'm going to pay close attention to this as I will be on this track eventually too with the spare sub I picked up. Please keep the updates rolling out as you progress.

I am pretty envious of your mobile workstation/alignment rack that you have(aka trailer). I won't be so fortunate but it could inspire a cart of some sort. I only have 2 stalls to play in and a somewhat steep driveway.

I have similar intentions to what you laid out. In contrast to Mako's suggestion I talked to a local blaster and he was willing to blast mine at the start and then do it again to clean it up before paint/coating. That said, mine has a good deal more surface rust. I figured it would save me some surface prep work and thereby preserve more metal that way.

Mine also has the passenger side frame horn kicked up in front of the crossmember where the bumper attaches. Some chooch tried to repair it before with some blow through chicken poop welding attempt.:(

Have you seen This Jack plate from Screamin Performance?

Thanks Robert. That trailer has been handy over the years.

I'd thought about plating it for strength, hadn't thought about weld slots or tie down hooks. :thumbsup: