The rear X member is about 3/4" or so too wide. I welded 1/4" strips in, then welded x member to it. Trans should be able to be removed without issues. I would like to see the front x member made in two pieces, it was a PITA to install, and if you have sf connectors, good luck!

I think you mean too short, I know what you mean though. I also cut 1/4" thick strips.

I'm using a T56 magnum, maybe a bit bigger than the five speed. I definitely agree with the idea of a two or even three piece design for the x member.

I watched the Fontana video and can't really tell what noise is coming thru the torque arm, how bad is it?

yes too short. 3 piece x member would be better. The noise is too much for a street car. Image your rear gear whine, but sitting next to you! The TA just transmits the noise into the floor right where you sit. In the next few months we are going to make a new front x member, and fix the panhard bar and maybe make a watts link. The trailing arms are too long as well. i have them set as short as they will go, and the tire is still back from stock.

Not what I wanted to hear:confused18:

I hate throwing money away......

Do you have much or any sound deadening?

What is the panhard issue?

And

Is there a solution for the trailing arms?

I have a whole roll of sound deadener, and full interior. Panhard bar is at a slight angle, and i don't know why. You can lengthen trailing arms to line it up, but the frame end is about 1.5" too far back in relation to the mount on the rear end. No way to fix the trailing arms, unless they can be taken apart and shortened. Don't get me wrong, this set up is as good as most set ups on the market, which also need some work or have draw backs in function or design. I'm not unhappy with the set up, but it is my nature to improve it. The noise is a big issue though

Well, all for the love of the hobby!

The explanation for the rear x member width is to accommodate the variances in the cars. Hopefully some variances fall in my favor.

I'll clamp everything together during mock-up and see what happens, it looks like the spring pockets can be moved forward a little which may help.

The noise.....I guess when you think about it it's basically a huge tuning fork from the car rearend straight to the driver rearend. lol

I was talked out of using a 3.70 rear gear because of the noise, I ended up with a 3.89.

Steve, what is your noise like? Btw, sorry if I'm jacking your thread:hello:

No issues jacking the thread. You guy pretty much nailed all the issues I ran across.

1. Trailing arms too long, actually having 325/19's rub on the rear inner wheel well I think. I'm a bit nervous I may cut the tire...
2. Panhard/coil over x-member too short - I added 1/8" plate on both sides but could have gone bigger
3. Not enough adjustment in the pan hard. I have the bar at full adjust and it isn't level. Need to raise the axle mount or lower the frame mount.
4. To Kieth's point Panhard does not look straight but I have not measured to confirm
5. Front ATS spindles - no steering stops - caused me a grind both front wheel lips on the inside when they hit the sway bar. I'm also running 10.5" wheels which are larger than recommended but a stop needs to be added.
6. Front coil over. It would have been nice to have the spring adjuster at the bottom instead of the top for ride height changes. The hole for the dampener adj could also be larger on the LCA.
7. Instructions and pics given are very bad. There are some critical measurements where a good pic is needed. Jay and Roger are very helpful on the phone but still it sucks to have to call.

As far as noise, it's hard to say in my car. I have a full float with a locker and not much sound control. My car is much less noisy than with my leafs but sometimes I do hear some small clunks. To me it's really a non issue.

Biggest issue to me was getting the front crossmemeber in place. I blamed it on the 1/2 height body mounts but an interested to know if Keith is running standard or 1/2 height. I also still haven't figured out the front UCA mount causing an alignment issue. I pulled the engine so will be measuring and calling Blake to get some more advice.

All this being said, I still love the way the drives and the overall fitment is very clean compared to other TA's I have seen. I would certainly do it again.


In other news the parts are starting to arrive for the LS swap. Picked up a Pacific Fab oil pan, as well as a hydraulic clutch kit and some engine plates from Meanstreets (Vince) All look very nice...
Attachment 49117

Attachment 49118

Attachment 49119

I decided to pull all the front sheet metal for 2 reasons. First the door gaps were too tight and caused a big paint chip after I had to cut the frame for the Speedtech mount. Second, I assume I'll be test fitting a lot of stuff and need to rewire anyways so best to have everything cleared out...

Attachment 49120



Here is what I believe will be the engine combo.. The goal is an engine that is easy on valve train with ~500RWHP and a flat torque curve.

Block - Factory LS3 - .05 over to torque plate and hone for new pistons
Piston - Wiesco K398X7
Rod - Callies 6.125 H beam
Crank - Factory cut .010 rod and main and back to perfect
Balancer - Either ATI or power bond under drive.
Flywheel - SFI Billet - debating alum or steel
LS3 heads

TEA CNC ported and valves cut/blueprinted
Brian Tooley to blend ports and install springs
BTR 660 springs and titanium retainers

Factory rockers with upgraded trunions
Lifters - Discussing using the Johnston tie bar lifters
Custom Cam from BTR
Intake - Factory LS3 intake and TB for now.
Headers - - 1 7/8 Long tube - Kooks or Stainless Works. Checking to see if AR has a set too
Head gasket - factory LS3 MLS gasket
Head bolt - ARP bolts
Oil pan - Pacific Fabrication 6 qt with road race baffle and windage
External oil cooler
Oil pump - Melling 10296 HV - already have and been assured it should not be an issues. Smoothed the input port with a die grinder and planning to change to low pressure spring
Timing chain - GM 12586481 upper gear with LS2 tensioner
Air/oil separator for PCV - most likely Moroso piece, still debating

Man, i wish you would have got our coilover conversion for the front. It is really a great piece, and the shock and adjusters are in the perfect spot. I'm not impressed with the Speedtech coilover kit.

Thanks for the info Steve.

That's gonna be a nice motor, pretty much the same motor I stuck in my '69 and made it real close to 500 rwhp.

I've got my front shocks mounted with the spring adjuster at the bottom. I can't see any way to adjust ride height with them at the top.

I bought the Stainless Works headers, they are designed using 1" setback plates (which they come with) and the earlier stand type frame mounts. Your new plates look like stock position, which makes sense because of your existing setup. Having said that, the headers have a lot of clearance and probably would work fine. My concern would be ground clearance. It looks like the clamshells may put the motor lower than the stand style mounts. The headers are beautiful and were only 800.00 to my door.

I see an easy and potentially very clean way to mod my front x member and have it mount to the inside of the frame. I'm still on the drawing board, I'm waiting on Speedway for my rearend housing. I'll mock everything up as intended before cutting anything.

I think after we iron out all the little issues, the cars will be pretty badass! :welder:

Your kit looks very similar to Speedtech's just without as much material in the middle. I thought about cutting them open a bit but decided not to. I don't typically change the ride height so wasn't very concerned. What are the overall differences between yours and Speedtech's?

Good to know the engine combo sounds about right.

I could easily flip the shocks but don't want to worry about trying to get my hands in the mount to adjust them. While the hole at the bottom is tight, at least I can also reach over it.....

I'm not sure how the engine plates will work with the clamshells and headers. Vince said hen hadn't tried them either but was nice enough to send them out to test out. I'll find out soon enough. Vince has given me a lot of good advice so I have no issues testing out some parts. How much clearance to the floor the the SW headers have? I called them and they thought my 1/2 body mounts would be an issue... That's why I'm leaning to Kooks... Where did you get SW's for $800??

I also thought to change the front x-member. The only issue is with exhaust clearance really. I also like how the mount is directly against the floor support to take the upwards load on the TA. I'm no an engineer but at least makes me feel confident in it. I chose to cut and bolt the frame together like Stielow does instead. Looking back after all the cutting I did to every else maybe i should have simply clearances the floor or notched the frame a bit....

The first time you ride in the car after switching from leafs you will be happy...