All high temp clear does is allow the paint to live at higher temps, it does not affect what temp the resin starts to soften.

Resin is dynamically stable up to the temp it is cured at. Above the ‘cure temp’ it will soften the resin and won't hold the fabric in orientation and your part will lose its shape.

Post curing is a secondary process. After the initial cure of the part - it’s placed back in a mold or fixture to be held in its correct position while being ‘post’ cured at an elevated temp – normally a temp higher than the temp it will experience ‘in-service’ when installed on the vehicle.

This effect is limited by the max temp range on the spec sheet of the chosen resin.

Check with your part manufacture and see what temp the part is cured to – or the max in-service temp threshold it will withstand. Beyond that temp you will need shielding or other protection aids.

Jim

Hanging the hood, so that it is unstressed by any of its weight, and "baking" it at 200 degrees for several hours is supposed to help keep the carbon fiber ripples to a minimum. This is what Tyler told me while he was at Anvil. throwing it out in the sun, and running it on a car before painting seems to help too. BOS has painted at least four Anvil hoods, and the two that suffered the most distortion were mine and james' hood for the OLC, both of which were painted right out of the box, so to speak. Deanna's 2nd gen has held up better (I think) and Jon drove that car with the hood unpainted for a year. Last but not least is the hood on Gregg's car, which Steve ran on Penny for Optima one year. That hood has a little visible CF weave showing but nothing terribly noticeable unless you get up close.

No idea what a turbo motor would do to an Anvil hood. Maybe ask Larry Callahan. I believe he ended up putting heat shield boots on the turbos.

Ill call Anvil tomorrow and find out the temp they cure their parts at. Thanks for the info guys.

on my other car i drove it around for about a month in the tx sun heating it up pretty good along with the turbo. After that i went and painted the hood. I drove it around for a year and it never changed after painting it.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...r/DSCF1091.jpg


this shows you where my turbo is.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...er/2573t6o.jpg

John,

Heat shield on turbos and hood should help with temps. Obvioulsy placement of the turbos will make a big difference. On Max's Mustang, the only issue he had is the heat temporarily deforming his hood, so makes it hard to close if hot until it cools down.

Gui

ceramic powder coat on the headers will help keep the heat down.

If I decided to sell my car what would a realistic value be when it is done? NA not turboed.

why? what happened?

X2 john what happened? How far from driveable is it now?

Gui