Thanks .... it's getting there :thumbsup:

This is why
 

sandblasting doesn't get ALL the rust! This is my inner fender that was sandblasted in 2002 and painted with epoxy primer and replaced on the car.

As you can see the areas that were sandblasted and epoxied are fine but .... the rust continued from between the panels :mad:

So I drilled out the spot welds and cleaned everything and I will put some POR15 on the areas tomorrow when I can get the time for two coats and the final black. Then I'll weld her up and all is good with this one, the other one needs a patch fabricated and the same steps to stop the rust.

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/4803/1207221130.jpg

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/7559/1207221127.jpg

Lesson learned ... do it right the first time.

You sir are a mad man, but, you are doing it right!!! what kind of epoxy you using??

Thanks ... gotta do it right or not at all!

I am using an epoxy primer called Finish 1 under Acme label which is made by Martin Senour and sold through NAPA, really good stuff w/o paying for a label if you know what I mean. If it's good enough for Steve Davis' (president of Barrett Jackson) 64 Ford Fairlane it's good enough for little ol me.

Got the first coat of POR15 on the inners and just waiting for the second coat.

What sort of wait time do you find works well between coats?
I picked up some POR15 recently partly because of the inspiring work you are doing here and sharing with us.
I'm going to start with my floor pans prior to Eastwoods' thermo-coustic barrier. They aren't rusty but I will be exposing a lot of metal and want a brush on product.

I was just out in the garage putting on the second coat of POR15 on my inner fenders and it was just tacky at 3 hours since the first, I'll let it dry overnight and then I can scuff the POR sections and top coat with POR black and she should be good for another 45 years :cheers:

If you plan to do your floor pans I would break up the pans into quarter sections and do just a section both coats and then move to another section after that one dries .... just so you know you got coverage and you're not missing anything. If you had another color you could change colors and that is a sure sign that you got everything covered. That is why I use silver and then top with chassis black POR ... just a thought!

7/29 Update
 

Had a couple hours in the garage to get the inner fender welded back to OEM without the rust!

This is what a little TLC and a couple hours can do to refurb your inner fender wells. Hopefully I can get back out in the garage later and start on the other inner ... same rust spots and it needs a patch welded in the corner.

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/696/1207291135.jpg
Plug welding with a copper backing!

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/1051/1207291138.jpg
Ditto

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/323/1207291141.jpg
Much better than before:thumbsup:

Still need to finish welding some of the holes and then touch up with POR over the welds and she'll be done .... one down one to go:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Thanks for looking...

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it's better to say something now before you get into structural parts of the car, your welds do not look good:)
It's hard to tell without being there in person, but the welds either look as if you do not have enough wire speed, not enough gas or the metal isn't cleaned well enough. Also, you ground too much metal away when you ground down the welds. On the photo of the ground welds, you can see you did not get penetration into the surrounding metal. It doesn't look as if you are using the proper technique for rosette welds, as well as the what I mentioned above.

Rosette welds should look like this...

Wow--just went through your entire build thread. Huge amount of effort you've put in. Must be a great feeling to be able to do all this type of work on your own. I really admire the effort--will keep watching to see it come together. I love the "Just keep moving forward" approach. Great work bro!

Doug