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Before you get too far into it.... mock in the glass and window trim. Also don't forget (if you had not already) hammer in the pinch welded section of the rear front fender support. It always seems to scrap paint when you go to open the doors after 6 coats of paint and clear. My body guy learned that lesson once.
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Ouch, them puppies always think they are bullet proof don't they. We have two Yorkies and one was like that. Jumping off of everything...not just jumping but close to flying. She has here own credit card for medical use.
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I hear you on the fender support. I've had to do that already to get clearence. It's part of the reason I keep debating on replacing the driver side fender. The support is pushed in on top and down and out on the bottom just below the mid line. The mid body line is flattened a little. There were two tears/cracks I had to weld up as well. One at the edge of the top support at the top body line and the other at the mid body line. I've been able to move the metal a little to make it fit a hell of a lot better but it is tighter than the passenger side in the area you mentioned. Things just don't want to move back in place with that big structural support being slightly tweaked. I can't decide if I should replace the fender or not. It's wavy where the support is to the door edge. I ran a straight edge down the side of the car and it's going to take a little over 1/16" of filler at the worst spot. I guess it's not a big deal as I purposely worked the edge out to proper height so I'm not having to build up the edge with filler. http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/...1BF2C44B01.jpg |
yeah, still going, up at 6 and asleep by 2...plan on a much needed vacation soon. The perks of being a new-ish small business in Calif.
Is that a new fender or original? You have gone this far you may as well tear into it. If you buy a new replacment you'll end up having to work it anyways. -especially at that upper tip won't match the door. Something that bugs me with the aftermarket metal. side glass is ok, its the rear that I check after quarters and filler replacment. |
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Original. The AMD one on the passenger side fit ok but you're absolutely right. I had to work it for a while too. Overall the AMD's a better fit comparing to the accident damage on the original. I also have to change the light flange on the original from RS to standard which was my other excuse. :) It seems easier to go the other way from std to RS. If it weren't for $200 shipping I wouldn't think twice. Back to the garage I go. I'm pretty sure I can make it work. |
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I've got a lot of posting to catch up on. A lot of life has happened since my last post. I got the car put together in primer in the spring. We went to a few car shows to spend time with my dad and friends and ran a few autocross events. I was surprised to not see more restomod pro-touring cars out here in the NW.
I'm currently pulling the 4 speed out and putting a Magnum T56 in. http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/...87CAB1F818.jpg |
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