So I looked at my header clearance and I have 1.25" between the header and the floor. From the stand mounting surface on the frame to the face of the adapter plate there is 3.5".

I think you'd be ok on the gap to the floor with the 1/2 height body mounts and if the clamshell setup is about the same 3.5" the SW's should work.....maybe lol

I bought the headers on sale at Colorado Speed. Looks like they are $867 right now.

They hang a little lower than I thought they would but they don't hang lower than the QuickTime bell or the gforce crossmember. So I guess I'm good with that....

Steve, couple things pop into my head with your setup. First, what drive shaft do you have? It needs to be able to handle the power/torque and RPMs you'll be turning with the LS3. Second, I would try to find a billet steel flywheel if it's lighter than the stock LS3 unit. I don't know what they weight. I have an AL behind my LT1. It's much better than the cast factory flywheel but it definitely doesn't hit the tires on launch like the stock piece did. This is do to the less inertia it carries which also helps it to rev quicker. Given the chance to do it again, I'd try for billet steel if available since it is lighter than stock but not as light as AL.

Good luck.

Thanks for taking the time to get those measurements.

I measured up the clamshells on the mounts in the car. They are ~3 1/4 from the frame to the back side of the shell. Pretty close to your measurements given there was also so slop with the bolts.

Given the measurements you provided and a good point Mike made to me about flanges catching on things more than slip joints I'm really reconsidering the SW over Kooks. The price at you showed me certainly doesn't hurt either....



I currently have an alumn shaft with spicer joints. It was custom made when I swapped the axle. I'm hoping worse case I need to cut it for the LS but hopefully no change at all...

The issue you discuss with the flywheel is my concern as well. I've never run an alum flywheel but have ofter heard the same issue you note above. Do you know the weight of the stock flywheel? I'll most likely use a billet steel version based on the same issues you state but am still curious if others have the same opinion as you.

Steve,

If you're considering Stainless Works headers, these guys have them, with 15% off coupon as well, or try deal20 for 20% off. The 20% off expires tomorrow.

http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts...A5716A0A0.aspx

Be careful with that link if you are ordering for a gen 2. The price is really good but they have the gen 1 part number listed incorrectly.

Ha, didn't pay attention to the p/n. I just put in the search for 70 Camaro.

How's your swap coming?

I hate it when that happens!

I'm sure you know the correct number is ca7081ls1.

No idea what a factory LS3 flywheel weighs. It looks to be a better quality casting than my LT1 flywheel. A billet steel piece may not be that much lighter but I think it's worth investigating.

A small update on my latest changes.

In general I've been spending far too much $$$$$. I ordered up a few parts

• Quicktime bell housing
• New fittings for my oil lines including a remote oil filter
• New PFTE fuel lines and fittings
• Vaporworx tank with a ZL1 pump
• Custom cam
• Link bar lifters
• BTR 660 springs with titanium retainers
• New pistons, rods and bearings
• New rocker arms and trunion upgrades
• Stainless Works headers - hoping they fit....
• All ARP fasteners

I'll be picking up the block and rotating assembly from my Houston tomorrow. Block has was honed to fit the pistons and just cleaned up. The rotating assembly is now balanced and a keyway was added to the crank for the balancer.

Heads are now in OH at TEA getting a CNC port before they go to BTR for final blending and assembly. Hopefully they will be back in 2-3 weeks.

I'm still debating to have the harness rebuilt as a stand alone or to simply get one from PSI. Rebuilt cost will be 325 including some missing connectors vs PSI cost at 570. Part of me says just get the new one to ensure there are no issues... but savings is pretty good for rebuilding.... Any thoughts?

I'm also debating on the clutch. The factory clutch is in good shape with only some rust on the flywheel that can be cleaned up. Part of me says to use this but I am also seriously thinking to get a Monster clutch dual clutch setup so I don't have to worry about anything.... It's a lot of coin but its made in Texas so the quality should be pretty good.....

I am pretty sure you know the answer - get the new one. The cost saving isn't worth it.