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Very cool Todd. Wish I lived near-by to help out. I'd even do it for no beer?!!?,...well??,.... lolllll...:_paranoid :lol:
GOOD LUCK BUDDY!:cheers: |
Dude, thats looking nice, and just from those pics I can see mucho time involved. I'm going through some of the same things right now. :thumbsup:
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Are you taking the blue tape out of Kelli's budget?
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Blue tape is all that holds this thing together. :lol: It only sticks to things you don't want it to. I'm running a pro billet distributor with a custom advance bushing and a 6AL with a 6800 chip. :D
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Todd, your car looks awesome. I can't wait to see it in April at El Toro. You really are doing a great job on that thing.
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it looks great Todd. Nice and neat and well protected from the heat.
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Ok--I can't stay away----more pics man---that all alluminum block and natural finish on the covers and intake looks so sweet with the black fittings/lines/hoses. I wish the pics were scratch and sniff---
Doug |
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Beautiful engine Todd. :hail: Many congrats! Can't wait to see it and hear it in person in a few weeks. :thumbsup: |
Bad Ass!! :beavis:
Can't wait for some vid!!!!! :thumbsup: Todd, this was my 5k post....saved it for you buddy!! :cheers: |
SHWEEEEEETTTTTT !!!!! dude !!! that looks sexy !!!! :thumbsup: not tryin to pick anything out :) but .... ive seen those gm weather pack connectors on your spal cooling fans melt when that much amprage is put threw them over time. :( ... i dont have a suggestion as to what connector to use other than those thow :( .... more photos !!!!! :)
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Tom -- Glad you posted that up - because I thought the exact same thing when I saw them -- they're not for "high amperage" draws. BUT the METRI-PACK stuff LOOKS just like the Weatherpack - so was thinking he was a smart boy and got it right.... For higher amp draws you have to go to the METRI-PACK... Having said that -- the fans might have a high initial amp draw (30 maybe) but I don't think they draw more than a continuous 20... BUT they accumulate dirt - and if they come on at "speed" that could have them drawing some pretty good loads. Is there a sealed connection system that will carry more than Weather Pack's 20 amps? Sealed Metri-Pack 280 Series connectors will carry up to 30 amps, and are available in one-, two-, and three-wire configurations. A sealed Metri-Pack 480 Series connector set is available in a two-wire configuration that will carry up to 42 amps. A sealed Metri-Pack 630 Series connector set is available in a three-wire configuration that will carry up to 46 amps. |
greg ... thats exactly what im talking about !!! ... :thumbsup: id suggest he gets the 480 or 630 series thow ... just from my experiance here in the desert. those fans will be on all of the time !!! and with the ac on it now ! ... i just like doing overkill on electric fan connections because of what ive seen with the factory stuff ! here in vegas
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Thanks guys, It's really on a new level. There were a few things where it was midnight and I said that's good enough before just to get it on the road. As far as the connectors go, time will tell. The terminals are different for the 12-14 gauge wire than they are for 14-18. They are dual 12" spals and pull under 20 amps a piece.
http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30102029_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH I've wired my ignition box with them as well. I can see where the water tight seal could cause an issue with overheating. None of the circuits are over 20 amps however. Like I plan to drive in the rain. :rofl: I just like the cleanliness of the connectors and ease of disconnecting. I hate the connectors that come in the autowire kit. Sure you can fill them full of dielectric grease but they still suck. Removing the seals between the female and male connection would fix the deal in most scenarios I'd bet. I'll run them this way and keep an eye on it. That's about as much work as putting on my shoes at this point. |
Todd, your car is loking marvelous baby
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That engine is freakin' sweet man, looks great in the car. I'm hopin' to see a video sometime after you get that thing fired up. :D
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Very soon, I'm just waiting on parts. My checlist is getting pretty short. It's looking so good. I can't believe the car has been down for almost 4 months. :willy: I can't wait to drive it!!!!!!!
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Kidding Anthony. :lol: Looking great Todd! |
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D |
Todd, your car is looking awesome. I went back last night and went through this entire thread from the start. I can't believe how much this build reminds me of our build on paul's chevy II. This car just get's better with every new change and improvement and the fact it's has so much owner feedback on those minor tweaks and engineering parts that don't work is great for all who visit this website.. It's great to see the other people on this board interact during this build and the helpful info we can share with each other.Keep up the great work . Any chance you might be coming to gingerman? Would love to see it . take care Joe. :thumbsup:
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Thanks Joe. Pauls car turned out sweet. To be honest, my skills and knowledge have progressed rapidly with the car. I'm really getting into the details now. I really enjoy the design and engineering of some of the systems. I never thought I had much of my Dad in me(He's and engineer) maybe I was just to busy drinking beer and raising hell back then to get interested. It's going to be tough for me to get to the midwest with the car. Someday I'm sure I will but no plans at this time. Definitely planning to run a local autocross on the 27th and El Toro on the 3rd. Then I have to get back to work. :lol:
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Dude that is looking unreal! One of the finest 69's out there! (with a BB lol)
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Thanks I think. haha
I'm waiting for a few parts to trickle in so I tackled the rear sway bar. I started out with a generic Hellwig kit and figured out it wasn't going to work of course. :unibrow: The fuel lines are right in the way and honestly routed the best way. I decided to design some brackets where I could sandwich the frame and use a tab for the end link. I designed them with a tab thinking it would be OK. After I got them home and started playing around I realized the bar angle was going to be to much. So I cut off the tabs and decided to use the center hole. I used two shoulder bolts on each side to keep from crunching the frame. The end links are aftermarket C5 adjustable end links. I'm excited to loosen the rear of the car up and have some adjustment. I really think it's going to be a huge plus on some of the slower autocross corners. I can't say I felt it needed it on the road course but time will tell as I get faster. I also am going to try a .25 wheel spacer shown. The other side has a worse rub than this side as you can see at the top of the wheel well and lower bar. With the low ride heights and racing I feel the wheel needs to be cheated to the outside vs. inside. Hopefully this .25 extra will get me just enough. http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...1969/002-8.jpg http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...1969/004-1.jpg http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...1969/009-4.jpg |
Nice--as always. Was the bar angled down too much? I had to make longer stands/mounts on the rearend to get mine to sit as level as I could--it still has a bit of a downward rake. Left mine on the front holes, figured I would change it around a bit at the RTTH deal to see how what a diff it will make.
What about spring rate in the rear now? With the bar back there, will you consider going to a lighter one? Thinking about trying it on mine--but need to get it around a track first--unfortunately that will be April 3rd. D |
Ya, way to much. I didn't think of modifying the rear mounting points but still think I would've went this way just to keep everything tucked up tight. It's going to be interesting with the 150lbs off the nose and rear sway bar. I can tell you the car already sits at least 1/2" higher in the rear vs. before with the jackstands this way. I'm still missing the hood, exhaust, seats, headers but I'm going to have to tweak all the coil overs. It's going to be alot like starting over in driver feel and tuning and I wasn't that far along with the old set up.
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It's amazing that all of these little changes have such big effects on the handling. Less wt up front, sway bar out back = totally different car from a tuning perspective. I can't wait to see how it does the first time out, but also to watch you get her dialed in.
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Good luck bud.:thumbsup: :cheers: |
you have the sickness. bad! :lol:
I demand you attend skip barber with me this year. |
Dude, I need help bad. You running RTTC?
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I was just thinking this exact same thing as I scrolled through your post. You attention to detail has really progressed. Looking good Todd. Rodger |
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I'll be bandaged, sore, and bruised, but I will be there if my body will allow it. |
Hope you feel well enough man.:cheers:
Looks like Payback will be hitting the ground tonight. The bottom is done except for a couple fuel line and parts are being overnighted. This corner of the engine is a major nightmare and a brain teaser. I have 2 oil lines, oil sender, z bar, clutch fork return spring/bracket, steering knuckle/shaft, and wiring on top of 2 1/8" headers. :willy: I have everything protected and this is as good as it's getting. I'm happy with it. It's not as spacious as the Nikon leads you to believe. http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...mPhotos007.jpg In these three photos you can see the other rats nest in the front left hand corner. It includes oil cooler outlet, one way valve, t fitting, accumulator plumbing, power steering feed, power steering pressure/return, cooling fan wiring, alternator wiring, and probably something I forgot about. :lol: The hose you see running just below the radiator is my accumulator 10AN. It fit perfect right below the radiator and is out of the way of road debris. http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...mPhotos004.jpg http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...Photos2001.jpg http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...mPhotos004.jpg The starter area is no piece of cake either. I had to rotate the starter out one notch due to the block and I was lucky to have just enough clearance for my battery cable and solenoid wire. Tight! |
Just some misc. shots of the new sway bar and new look underneath. It all came together really nice. :thumbsup: I'll be turning the key this weekend. :D
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...mPhotos001.jpg http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...mPhotos003.jpg http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...mPhotos005.jpg http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...mPhotos014.jpg http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...mPhotos015.jpg http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...Photos2005.jpg |
" I'll be turning the key this weekend. "
Please provide us with some video !!! :thumbsup: :bow: :cheers: Jason |
Wow Todd, everything looks great! Congrats on getting it wrapped up (or really close anyway)
I had one question though, your tow hooks in the back. In the picture the look verticle. If you hook on with them in the current position wouldn't it be pulling in the direction that would most likely bend the tab? I would think that in that position they would be the least resistant to bending. (as compared to horiz and pulling on the metal that way) Does that make any sense at all? Dammit! Now I am confused......:willy: Now as a tie down point (pulling straight down on them) I could see them being very strong. |
Looks good Todd!
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Nice work tucking all that equipment up safe out of the way, and still making it look neat. Glad to hear your close to starting it. A little payment for all your work.
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whooo hooo!!!
damn look at them header all fresh now. lol |
The rear tow hooks are 1/4 plate. It was a requirement of Redline Time attack so I drew them up and had them cut. I don't know if they would bend or not.(I'll find out soon) I plan to used a criss cross pattern in the trailer and have a front tow hook in the event I need help back to the pits. They may get redesigned eventually but my hands are kind of full right now. :rofl:
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Nice... can't wait to hear your gal running again. She sounded sick before.
Don't forget the video!! |
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