Nice numbers! What were you at before the E-force install with the mods you did to it? You taking it to the auto fair next month?

I'll be with Metrolina Corvettes next month at Autofair.
We are scheduled to be under the stands up top.


I've dynoed the car 3x in the past - these are at the rear wheel:

375 hp - mostly bolt ons.
450 hp - cam / CNC heads, long tube headers, LS3 intake, injectors + tune.
580 hp - blower / Edelbrock CAI / injectors + tune.

Wow! Impressive numbers! It just dawned on me that this is a 6liter car. I had it in my mind for a while now, that this was an ls3...duh...
I love what you've done to this car!

Thanks man!

Yep - the block is LS2 everything from the crank up is different.

LS9 Cam
LS7 Lifters
CNC LS3 heads
E-Force LS3 kit

I got the car back today - and holycrap is it fast!

I really hated how the power band moved up with the LS9 cam - its nice to have that low end torque again!

Initial thoughts - need to be more careful gunning the car - even with new 345's it wants to kick out.

Also - the blower is quiet as hell - or its my loud ass exhaust, you can't hear it at all!

awesome numbers! Now go drive that thing and have some fun.

I finally finished up this swap - I installed my Holley LS valve covers, and took off my factory coil packs and painted them.

I love the look of the covers and the coil packs - so much better then the Edelbrock covers that didn't fit.

That should be about it for awhile - now for some pics:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1559/...47f4b9ac_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1595/...c2cc948c_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1575/...f7e325f2_b.jpg

Nice work
 

Engine looks great like that, good choice.

After I got my car back from the dyno - I noticed that the drivers seat stopped moving back and forward.

The memory seat buttons wouldn't make the seat move either.

Then I tested the seat buttons without any weight in the seat - and they worked fine.

Come to find out the wire harness connecting to the seat module had stretched and with weight on it - caused the motor to not get its signal from the module.

Apparently this is a common problem with the C6 - so I ordered a new pigtail harness from Amazon - and pulled the seat out.

Removing the pig tail from the module - I found the wire completely snapped off from the plug. So I cut the plug off - stripped back the wiring.

I soldered in one of the wires and that took forever. I started on the second wire - and my cheap HF soldering iron died.

A quick trip to Lowe's and I bought a real soldering gun - I got the other wire done in like 5 minutes.

I put the seat back in the car - and everything works again!

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1606/...2c8cb764_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1608/...04362770_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1679/...86001f20_b.jpg

Truck update:

I just finished up my last project on this truck.

My rear bumper has been shot since day one - the chrome was stained and it was rusting from the inside out. I looked into aftermarket bumpers - and they just weren't for me.

I saw someone put at 2014+ 1500 rear bumper on a NBS 1500 series truck and I really liked it.

I picked up a work truck model 2014+ rear bumper for cheap on ebay ~$250. It is flat black, has no sensors in it, and was supposed to bolt right up to a 1500.

I got the bumper in a few days - and stripped it down.

It had a few scratches in it - but I sanded and smoothed them out - and primed, base coat, and clear coated the rear bumper ~$40 in materials.

I got the bumper back together and tried to put it on the truck - it bolted right up but I had a huge gap between the bumper and the bed.

I thought that would happen - so I ordered a set of 2015+ 2500 HD brackets - and while the bolted to the bumper they would not bolt to the frame as the bolt holes are in different locations and the hardware setup is different. I mocked them up in the rear frame rails - and the bumper sat in the same exact location as the 1500 brackets!

So I decided to go back to the 1500 brackets - and send the 2500 bumper brackets back.

On the frame rails - I made the top hole for the bumper bracket the new bottom hole. I drilled a hole in the frame 2" above the old top hole. I also drilled another hole for the most forward hole in the frame rail 2" above the old location.

This moved the entire assembly up. I then painted the new holes in the frame rail and bolted everything up. I also moved over the wire harness for the rear plate lights, and the locking spare tire access port over from the old bumper.

For less then $300 I got a new rear bumper that isn't jacked up.

Old bumper:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1666/...db3ae5df_b.jpg

Bracket differences:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1715/...b503c9fe_b.jpg

Body work:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1683/...e734e560_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1691/...c03d37a5_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1501/...bacac7db_b.jpg

Installed:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1697/...a5b4b193_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1536/...eb66e647_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1711/...34eab19b_b.jpg

Came by and seen the car. Looked awesome but I have to say it was in the coldest place on the property. Hope today's better for you.