I used to have the fan kick on at 200* and off at 195* but after seeing the fan run constantly I set it to kick on at 210 and off at 205 to see if it made a difference. Operating temps really didn't change either way though the fan ran a lot less.

I played with it some more this afternoon and at idle it can get as high as 215*. When I bring up the revs it drops to 205* but today it didn't drop any lower.

I'm running the AFCO LS radiator and a Mark VIII fan so I'd think that is plenty to keep an idling motor cool... I have an open question to Vintage Air and via them to Tuff Stuff who made the water pump about it.

EDIT: on the streets of willow track for the handling challenge coolant temps stayed around 210* even with oil temps at 260*+

If you bring up the RPMS and the car cools off --- I'd be looking at the voltage your electric fan is seeing at idle. I assume you're running a relay -- but perhaps not heavy enough gauge on the power side.

I bought a 37 Ford once that had an overheating problem -- well DOH! The fan was seeing 10 Volts... That was certainly easy to fix.

I hadn't thought of that Greg. I'm using the Mast relay built into their harness. I will double check it.

This could be part of the story but isn't the whole story as I can duplicate this behavior on the freeway with the fan off. I turned the fan off with my laptop and saw stable temps ~210* in 6th gear 70mph but when I ran 4th gear at 70mph the temps dropped to below 200*. So I think there is something else going on too.

Regarding lean vs rich. The car is pretty stinky right now and if I don't clean it builds up a layer of soot on the tail panel so I think it's to rich. Oh and it gets horrible MPG. Around 10mpg around town. A best of 15 on 100% freeway drive.

Sounds like your water pump pulley may be to under driven. Meaning, to big.

To fat can cause high exhaust gas temps as well.

I'd dial in the tune before you worry to much more about temperatures.

Thanks Todd. I will get a dyno tune scheduled ASAP.

In the mean time I've been researching oil pan adapters and most of them are not great for my Champ / Autocraft pan since it kicks out to the side. I stumbled on this genius solution on LS1tech. I need to find someone who can make this!

http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/...psf74525f8.jpg

Nice looking adapter. I am not sure but I think Brett at Fab53 may be able to build it for you and he is in the LB area. Another option, if its not hard to take the pan off, would be to tig the fittings onto the pan that way you can set the angles up to work with your set up.

But honestly I would do the tune work first before going any further.

Chad,
Can you post a link to that thread on tech?

How about the Mocal thermostat that Improved Racing also sells? If there is space downward it might work for you.

http://www.improvedracing.com/cooler...ines-p-33.html

Well I'm going to do the tune but either way I'd like to run an oil cooler so that part of all of this is not effort wasted. I called Brett yesterday but he said he is too busy to do work like this. Otherwise I'm sure he could make the part.

Sure, it is right here: http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...r-options.html

No I don't think the Mocal would work at least not if I don't want the lines next to the headers. I guess it would be mostly metal next to the header but both fittings would be up against or near the headers.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/image...9/19070791.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/image.../19070792.jpeg

Because of the kick out of the pan I would love the custom adapter above. If I use the Champ or Canton adapter for steel pans that replaces the oil filter adapter the lines would have to run out alongside the kick out (where the Autokraft sticker is). Still farther from the headers than my current setup but not as ideal as being able to get them above the kick out tucked into the pan.

Did you come up with a fix for the oil cooler? Also, do you have a cage in the car?